36humpback
Members-
Posts
187 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by 36humpback
-
-
Testing amp gauge while out of vehicle
36humpback replied to 36humpback's topic in General Discussion
Thanks to every one's help and advise. I tried the jumper wires to a headlight bulb, and it worked. Bulb came on and ammeter needle went to discharge side. I will try the one in the dash now. Hopefully I won't have to takeout the meter that's already in, as I will have to take the whole cluster out. -
Testing amp gauge while out of vehicle
36humpback replied to 36humpback's topic in General Discussion
Thanks again. I don't have to hook up a wire from the generator to the ammeter? -
Testing amp gauge while out of vehicle
36humpback replied to 36humpback's topic in General Discussion
I do have a newer 2 wire 35 amp generator, and a firewall mounted voltage regulator. I had both tested (apart and together), and both work and are compatible. So if I'm reading it right I unhook the gen wire and use wire from post to ammeter. Wire from battery to other post and try it. Should I unhook wires to ammeter still in the truck? Thanks BLOO. -
I have acquired a second amp gauge, and want to check it while not in the vehicle. I am assuming that a wire from the generator to one stud, and a wire from the battery to the other stud. Start engine and check at higher than idle speed. Is that correct? Would I have to ground the amp gauge somehow? Thanks in advance. Bob
-
UPDATE I got the amp gauge to go to + side when engine is reved up. Yeah!! Now I have to figure out what terminals all the other wires go to. I have most everything else fastened to the generator lug. No headlights, or panel lights. If I understand all the comments correctly, the following wires go on the top stud. 15, 18- ammeter to horn 24- ammeter to cab light swirch 29- ammeter to instrument light switch 32- ammeter to headlight switch Any and all help appreciated. Thanks, Bob
-
Ok... Here is what the instructions I have for the wiring harness say: # 15 ammeter (same terminal as wire # 18, 24, 29, 32) to starter switch "BAT" #16 VR "bat" to ammeter #18 Ammeter to horn #24 Ammeter to cab light switch #29 Ammeter to instrument light switch #31 ammeter(same terminal as wire #16 to ignition switch #32 ammeter( same terminal as wire # 15, 18,24,29) to headlight switch (bat) #52 ammeter to heater switch The back of my ammeter is the same as the pic I got off the interweb, except there are no gen or bat markings on it. With these instructions, can you tell me what wires go where? I assume that "accessories" go to the top above the fuse. My big question is #15, 18, 24, ,29, and 32 to starter switch bat. does that mean the bat on the VR?, and they all go on the bottom right stud? Thanks.
-
I'm having trouble wiring up the back of the ammeter on my 36 Dodge panel. The wiring diagram is so grainy that I can't tell what wire goes where. There are three studs on the back. One above the the fuse and two below. the attached pic shows a stud next to fuse. Is this the one above the fuse on my ammeter? With engine running the ammeter does not show charging, but when I turn on the headlights it shows a discharge. Both alternator and Voltage regulator were recently check and both are good. I just need an explanation of what/how many wires go where. I think I might have some wires on wrong studs. The letter U is the amp gauge. Also a pic of the back of the amp gauge. Thanks in advance.
-
I'm having trouble wiring up the back of the ammeter on my 36 Dodge panel. The wiring diagram is so grainy that I can't tell what wire goes where. There are three studs on the back. One above the the fuse and two below. the attached pic shows a stud next to fuse. Is this the one above the fuse on my ammeter? With engine running the ammeter does not show charging, but when I turn on the headlights it shows a discharge. Both alternator and Voltage regulator were recently check and both are good. I just need an explanation of what/how many wires go where. I think I might have some wires on wrong studs. The letter U is the amp gauge. Thanks in advance.
-
Looks like a Portland Trailblazers logo.
-
best gas octane rating for a 1938 Dodge D8?
36humpback replied to 36humpback's topic in General Discussion
Thank you everyone for the info. Regular gas Will be a lot cheaper. Bob -
best gas octane rating for a 1938 Dodge D8?
36humpback replied to 36humpback's topic in General Discussion
Thanks for the input. In rebuilding my panel I had the fuel tank cleaned and coated. All new fuel lines (steel and rubber). I don't know if the carb (bxov-2) and fuel pump are compatible with newer fuel, as the person I bought the rebuilt engine from passed away not long after I bought the engine (20+ years ago). After all the prep work on the engine it started right up after the fuel got up to the carb. No other feeling like starting it for the first time. -
I finally got my engine running. I put VP 110 racing gas in it as it is supposedly leaded gas. It has an octane rating of 107. Will it hurt my engine? Should I go to regular gas and add "lead additives"? Any help would be appreciated. Bob
-
It's not mine. Saw it on a local site.
-
Nobody knows?
-
I found this on a site. I have never seen one in this configuration. What did it fit? Is it an aftermarket? Thanks in advance. Bob
-
Wanted: front end linkage ball and socket parts - 1929 Cadillac
36humpback replied to jp1gt's topic in General Discussion
I think it would depend on year and make of the car. -
When I have posted there have been times I have not received notices that someone has responded. How can I access my posts without scrolling down to the approximate date I listed one? Thanks. Bob bob