bradsan Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 This is a great 'thread'. Thanks again to Dave and all who take the time to post info like this. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted December 24, 2022 Author Share Posted December 24, 2022 (edited) 4 hours ago, 37S2de said: I know that I should just let this slide by, but the machinist in me can’t do it. In the photos above, there are two photos of the compound setting on the lathe. The text implies that to make 60 degree threads that the compound should be set at 60 degrees. This is not correct. The second photo shows the compound set at about 29 1/2 to 30 degrees. This is the correct setting to cut 60 degree threads and should probably be emphasized in the text. Tom All depends how you look at it. Degrees with the cross slide, or with the carriage. There are slashes in both respective places. The compound is set so whether you see 30 Degrees with the slash that runs with the compound or 60 Degrees with the carriage. If you have it set so you see both at the same time you know you are correct. 30 and 60 equal 90. No changing that. You are correct in that from the 0 on the on the cross slide that runs with it, you will read 30 degrees on the compound. I did change that in the text. I did look around on you tube for a good basic video of threading on a lathe and hand grinding a tool bit but found none. Either they're too involed with BS. IE, A cat at a desk for a student... Or way too short and without explantions. Guess I'll have to get a better video camera and do one myself. Edited December 24, 2022 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 I thought i would add a couple more pictures of the other parts of this rebuild; Below are the painted axle housings with the new bearing sleeves installed and the painted trans-axle case with the new pinion gear and bearing installed. They came out better than they had a right too!............I just have to add some pin-striping (we'll see how steady my hand is!) 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 7, 2023 Author Share Posted January 7, 2023 Back at it. I cut the long keyways in yesterday. Always find the center of the piece and work out and down from there. Also dial indicate it to be sure it is level. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 7, 2023 Author Share Posted January 7, 2023 More photos. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ex98thdrill Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 I've never had the desire to own a brass car, but knowing what it takes to restore a fire truck, I respect the brass cars even more because I understand the difficulty it is finding and/or making the parts to put the cars together to make them run. I've cranked over our '29 Whippet by hand before, but I still wouldn't be able to start a model 'T' let alone what you're working on. God bless you for what you do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 Looking great! When I removed the rear wheels from my 1912 Flanders to service the brakes, I found that both rear axle nuts only had about 20 ft-lbs of torque on them. One side also had an oversize key installed to take up wear. When I put everything back together, I torqued each axle nut to 75 ft-lbs, plus whatever it took to get the castle nut slot to line up with the cotter pin hole. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Lookin' good Dave...............in the home stretch! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37_Roadmaster_C Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 On 1/7/2023 at 4:45 AM, cudaman said: Looking great! When I removed the rear wheels from my 1912 Flanders to service the brakes, I found that both rear axle nuts only had about 20 ft-lbs of torque on them. One side also had an oversize key installed to take up wear. When I put everything back together, I torqued each axle nut to 75 ft-lbs, plus whatever it took to get the castle nut slot to line up with the cotter pin hole. I do not know what the spec would be, but seating a taper with to much torque WILL make disassembly a royal pain in the a$$. Possibly even to the point of damaging the parts. Without a spec I would stop at about 30 Ft-Lb plus keyhole alignment. @Dandy Dave, your thoughts on this???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 9 hours ago, 37_Roadmaster_C said: I do not know what the spec would be, but seating a taper with to much torque WILL make disassembly a royal pain in the a$$. Possibly even to the point of damaging the parts. Without a spec I would stop at about 30 Ft-Lb plus keyhole alignment. @Dandy Dave, your thoughts on this???? 33 LBS is common torque on a Grade 8- 3/8 course threaded Bolt. 15 LBS on a 3/8 Grade 2. That's a lot smaller than the 3/4 and 7/8 thread that we are working with. If we were dealing with the cheapest grade 2 bolts off of the shelf a 3/4 fine thread would be torqued to 138 FT LBS. A 7/8th grade 2 fine thread would be 144 FT. LBS. Factoring the taper and the risk of cracking a hub, I do not think 75 LBS is too much. Remember in the old days not many, if any, had a torque wrench. Better to have them a little snug that too loose. From the old axles I have seen that were run loose the damage was beyond repairable. I have seen axles broken out as Wayne Sheldon described. Better to have them snug. To remove these wheels you need a proper puller anyway if they are put on tight enough. Running too loose because it's easier to pull the hub and drum and you will end up with damage in the long run. Don't do it. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 2 hours ago, Dandy Dave said: To remove these wheels you need a proper puller anyway if they are put on tight enough. Running too loose because it's easier to pull the hub and drum and you will end up with damage in the long run. Don't do it. To Dave's point here, when I had to make the puller to get the one wheel that was tight off, I was concerned as to how strong the threads were on the outside of the hub that need to be used (they are usually just holding the dust cap on). The threads are 2 7/8-14, X 1/2" long. I calculated the area of the threads to be 2.75 sq. in. So even in cast steel (30,000 psi yield) they can withstand over 40 tons of pulling force! Steel is strong stuff when used properly! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 Nothing in the world like a Bridgeport Mill with a Newall digital readout for locating and drilling holes with percision. These are photos with the Dividing head in place and cutting the keys for the pinion gears. There are two at 90 Degrees apart. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 The gear fits as it should. Must have did something right. 😁 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 Drilling the holes for the cotters and we are done. Always find the center, and use a center drill to start the holes. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 Was thinking of putting these works of art on a board painted white and bringing them to MOMA for a spell. We will simply call it 1910 EMF. But I know how bad the Red Baron wants to get that car together and drive it. Come and get them when you have time Andy. 🙂 Oh wait. I have to figgure out the cabbage part for being a caretaker of such a fine automobile and having these parts made. 😬 😵 Hours -N- Hours. Not to worry. I have a calculater. 😁 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Looks great Dave!....................Will give you a call later. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 It looks like you have as much fun with your machine tools as you do the cars! I am a little jealous. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, nickelroadster said: It looks like you have as much fun with your machine tools as you do the cars! I am a little jealous. Sometimes more! Be carefull of wanting more mechanical things. Each one is like having more wives. The more you have, the more money it costs in maintenance, space, stuff, and time to keep them all happy. Dandy Dave! Edited January 10, 2023 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticbuicks Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 very nice work ,and not just having the tools........but how to know what you are doing,rare talent these days i think 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37_Roadmaster_C Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Excellent machine work Dave. I also like having the machines to do work when needed. I love your comparison of the machine to wives.....SO TRUE!! I think my actual wife costs less to keep happy 🤣. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zepher Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 You're right Dave, those axles are works of art. It's a shame no one will see them after they are installed. Thank you for taking us along for the ride. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Moskowitz Posted January 12, 2023 Share Posted January 12, 2023 Huge props Dave, wish I had some machinists skills. Thanks for sharing. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted January 12, 2023 Share Posted January 12, 2023 A true artist in every sense of the word. Thank you for taking the time to post all the pics and details. dave s ps-I’m still willing to be adopted. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 An update! Sporting Dandy Daves new axles, new ring and pinion, bushings, thrust washers etc....... (and new paint job). The main assembly is together. All seems to fit really well, backlashes, axle lengths and bearing fits are all where they should be! 9 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 30, 2023 Author Share Posted January 30, 2023 Glad to hear everything is going together as it should. 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 Wow, looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 38 minutes ago, cudaman said: Wow, looks great! Thanks, it is/has been a lot of work! My pinstriping looks good from 6 ft away, up close not so much! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootey Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 Do the edges of the threads end up razor sharp or are they somewhat rounded? If rounded, how do you achieve that result? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRJBUICK Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 I am not sure which is nicer looking the machined axles or the complete assembly either way cant wait to see it on the road 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 31, 2023 Author Share Posted January 31, 2023 On 1/30/2023 at 12:03 PM, Shootey said: Do the edges of the threads end up razor sharp or are they somewhat rounded? If rounded, how do you achieve that result? I use a file to break any sharp edges while the part is spinning in the lathe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted March 6, 2023 Share Posted March 6, 2023 Thought I would post an update on this: The rear transaxle has been installed and I just finished refinishing the rear wheels.................."It is time!" 11 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted March 6, 2023 Share Posted March 6, 2023 Wonderful! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat777 Posted March 7, 2023 Share Posted March 7, 2023 Pure artistry in work there Dave, and a stunning end result! As someone with a rudimentary knowledge of lathes but little experience, I particularly enjoyed the detailed explanations into how the machining is set up 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 8, 2023 Share Posted March 8, 2023 Somehow I lost this thread. Bravo to Dandy Dave! Well done. You old agricultural and equipment mechanics are top rate, and quickly disappearing, No tractor mechanic here…….just a craftsman. Three thumbs up.👍👍👍 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 8, 2023 Author Share Posted March 8, 2023 (edited) 10 hours ago, edinmass said: Somehow I lost this thread. Bravo to Dandy Dave! Well done. You old agricultural and equipment mechanics are top rate, and quickly disappearing, No tractor mechanic here…….just a craftsman. Three thumbs up.👍👍👍 Thanks, I still work on tractors Ed. Seeing what I can do with a Head off of an early Huber. Needs a valve Job bad. It would be similar to this. Stearns Engine. https://www.proxibid.com/Huber-Tractor-18-36-w-Stearns-Motor/lotinformation/63309337 Edited March 8, 2023 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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