IFDPete Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 (edited) Cylinder Block Pulled for Cleaning & Repair I removed the hose from the water pump to the block, the distributor cap & wires, the push rod cover, and the manifolds so that the block could be removed. I also removed and labeled the valve push rods. Only one bent push rod to fix. Used an engine hoist, leveler, and a lovely mystery helper to remove the cylinder block from the car - radiator is still on the car - crank case still mounted to the car - I just lifted the cylinder block up over the radiator and out the front of the car. I wanted to get this block off to the shop for cleaning and get this project moving. I will deal with cleaning and testing the radiator later, so I just left it in place for now. Block was lowered onto an elevated pallet so that I could inspect it and remove the freeze plugs before I send it out to be thermal cleaned. Edited October 12, 2022 by IFDPete spelling (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 (edited) Freeze Plug Pulling In preparation for getting the Cylinder block thermal cleaned, the cleaning company wanted all of the freeze plugs pulled from the block. I tried tapping the edge with a punch and hammer but they did not budge. I then drilled a hole in the center and tried a slide hammer but all it did was pull the center out and eventually the slide hammer screw let go. The plug edges held solid in the block. This is where my pictures start. I used a flathead screwdriver to punch the center out of 80% of the circle leaving just the edge ring in place. Then I pushed the punched out center into the block and used a small hack saw to cut a relief groove into the edge of the freeze plug so that the edge could compress on itself when I hit it and slide out of the hole. I had to be careful to not cut through the freeze plug edge and damage the cast block. I cut almost all the way through leaving just a thin bit of freeze plug metal that would fold under pressure. Once the relief cut was done the edge of the freeze plug ring was carefully hit with a hammer and punch so that I did not hit the cast block. Some took many hits of the hammer to move and others were easier. The plug started to tip with half in the engine block and half out. You can see the relief cut compressed into a "V" as the ring compressed and it tipped into the block. Pulled the "out" half of the ring with pliers and they came right out of the block. 6 plugs out and no damage to the cast block - I call that a good day's work. These rings were thick metal and very solid with very little corrosion or thinning found. I wish I could get another set of NOS 101 year old freeze plugs. The quality was amazing. Good old American craftmanship... really old. Edited October 14, 2022 by IFDPete (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 The irony here, as you alluded, is that the 21st-century replacements will probably start leaking in 10 to 20 years... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 (edited) Not one crack but TWO! Examination of the cylinder block off of the car showed a lot of scale inside the water jacket. No surprises there - but while looking around the block I got a better look at the water jacket crack on the drivers side rear. It is indeed ugly and it will be a challenging fix with all of its turns. It measures about 8 inches in total length. Driver side rear crack below: Looking around at the passenger side I noticed another water jacket crack. It is on the front end of the passenger side and measures about 5 inches long. It is also in a bad spot on the bottom edge of the water jacket right next to the cylinder walls. Oh well. At least this crack looks to be one long line rather than compound and the two cracks are diametrically opposed on the block. Hopefully there are no more cracks revealed after the block is thermal cleaned. Passenger side front crack: So now that the cylinder block is off of the car I have taken it for thermal cleaning. When I get it back, I will take more pictures and get in contact with some experts on what recommendations they have to fixing the block. I will keep you all posted and post some "after" pictures of the cleaned block on this forum thread. With the block off the car I can now move on to working on some other aspects of this car's revival ... more to come. Pete Edited October 17, 2022 by IFDPete wording (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 My '24 motor has 2 cracks in the cooling jacket that were weld repaired many decades ago. I have no idea what weld process was used or if that white coating (white lead ?) is plugging up some small seep. Kevin 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 (edited) That’s a nasty crack. I’ve seen simple cracks ‘stitched’. Does anyone know what year jugs are common and will fit a 1921? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk Edited October 17, 2022 by Brian_Heil (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 There are actually two videos One installing the pins The second installing the ‘bridges’. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 My spare 1925 Standard engine from Kentucky had this beautiful weld but was on a nice flat area. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 Thanks to all for the advice on this project. I am grateful for the pictures of the welds done on your blocks. It gives me hope that one way or another I can get this car running. All the private messages and support are very much appreciated. My block has been gone for cleaning for a couple weeks now. Hopefully it will be back soon. The shop needs to get a whole batch of work to run the oven. They won't run it for just one item. So I just have to be patient. Once I have it back I can get it evaluated for fixing. On the plus side, I did have a successful trip to Hershey and found some needed items for the car. More on that in my next post. Pete 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 8 hours ago, Brian_Heil said: Does anyone know what year jugs are common and will fit a 1921? Master parts book says H, K, 1921 and 1922 have the same block number. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 14 hours ago, Brian_Heil said: That’s a nasty crack. I’ve seen simple cracks ‘stitched’. Does anyone know what year jugs are common and will fit a 1921? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk Wow, that's a lot of drilling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted October 20, 2022 Author Share Posted October 20, 2022 Hershey Find #1 Replace broken headlight connector - I took the headlights off of the car in preparation for the engine block removal and found that my driver side headlight electrical connector plug was broken. It had 2 pins on the side of the metal shell that secure the plug into the female connection on the headlight. One of the pins was located on the broken off portion. Not sure how someone managed to break it. Luckily it was the week before Hershey. Mission Impossible? - find a connector plug at Hershey - no not impossible after all. Not an easy part to locate but they are there, you just have to look at a lot of tables and sift through many boxes of parts. In 2 days of searching I found connectors at two different vendors. I bought a few different types because I was not sure which would be correct. Prior to Hershey I could not get the black retainer ring off of my broken headlight plug - I did not know how it came off. At Hershey after looking at what was available I was able to see that the connector was probably threaded on the end and that the retainer was screwed onto the threads. So another great plus of Hershey is that not only can you find parts but you can learn how things are constructed and put together. Broken headlight connector plug - Place a rag in the fender hole that the wire loom comes through so that when you unscrew the black plug retainer ring off of the headlight connector plug the plug doesn't fall into the fender. If the ring does fall through the fender you will spend the next 90 minutes trying to get it out by various methods tripling the time it takes to complete this job - ASK ME HOW I KNOW !! Make note of which wire goes into which hole so that you can replace them in the new plug correctly. Note the orientation of the retaining pins on the side of the headlight connector plug so that you orient the new plug in the same way. Unscrew and remove the brass screws from the face of the plug. Then use a screwdriver / punch / nail to push the wire and wire connector out of the back side of the plug. Remove the brass wire connector from the wire. Remove the other wire in the same way. Take apart the new plug, orient the new plug with the retaining pins in the originals' position. Attach and insert wires in same holes as original. Replace brass screws on the face and screw black plug retainer ring back on. Test the lights. New Old Stock plug installed - It works! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted October 28, 2022 Author Share Posted October 28, 2022 (edited) Hershey Find #2 Jack (or very similar) for 1921 Model 46......with a handle ! ! At least it looks like the correct jack. Handle is a different shape than what is in the 1921 Buick parts book. Cost was $2.50 in 1921. Cost at Hershey Oct.2022 - $10.00 ! Yup - you read that right. You see a lot of jacks at different vendors and they are almost always missing a handle. What a find. It was late on Thursday afternoon. The vendor was packing up his tables and trailer to head home. I happened to see the jack sticking out of a bucket on his trailer and asked how much. He said "Ten" as he continued packing and I could not get my wallet out fast enough. I literally stumbled upon this. Also great news is that I tried it on the car and it works well. Edited October 28, 2022 by IFDPete wording (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 28, 2022 Share Posted October 28, 2022 You got ripped off. You paid $10 for a jack that only cost $2.50 when it was new. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted October 28, 2022 Author Share Posted October 28, 2022 Yes Morgan...and I bought it used ! I was quite the fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted October 28, 2022 Share Posted October 28, 2022 While your waiting for the block to come back, have you looked for a core engine? Expectations vary, but from the looks of things it may have a lot more cracking after you get it back. Over the years I have found the real extent of the cracking is usually twice what you can see with your eyes. I applaud that your still pushing on the car while waiting for the engine…….too many people stop in their tracks while dealing with block issues. Looking forward to your next post on the block. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old buicks 2 Posted October 28, 2022 Share Posted October 28, 2022 IFDPete, I have been following your journey with the Buick for some time now. I experienced a similar crack in my 1920 K 45 and found a source of cast welding in Nevada, Iowa. Company is Midwest Cylinder Repair. They did and excellent job of welding my block and bored and sleeved two holes for me. 1700 W F Ave Nevada, IA 800-873-8506 talk to Tim. They do large heads off tug boats for the great lakes along with over the road semi-tractor and farm tractor repairs. They bring the item up to temperature, weld it and the cool back down over several days. They are usually about 2 to 3 months out on turn around. GREAT people!!!!!!!!!! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted October 28, 2022 Author Share Posted October 28, 2022 (edited) Cylinder Block is back from cleaning - EdinMass funny you should ask about another block. I just picked up my cylinder block from being cleaned. The block cleaned up tremendously but there was a glitch. I dropped the block off for a thermal cleaning in an oven. The shop did not do a thermal cleaning. Instead they did a hot chemical dip instead. The foreman was afraid that if they did a thermal clean that the cylinder sleeve would come out of the block. I do not know what temperature they bake things in their oven, or their process, so maybe his caution was for good reason. I suppose that it is possible that they might have damaged the block. I was disappointed to hear that they changed the work without consulting me, but the positive side of it is that I sent the block in with all of the studs attached. None of the studs were broken off or bent upon return to me and the foreman specifically said that they took great care of the block during cleaning so as not to damage the studs. He said that they could not remember the last time the had something so old in the shop. He knew it was irreplaceable. Here are pictures of the cleaned block. It is dark because they spray it with WD-40 after cleaning to prevent flash rusting. Also some close ups of the cracks and a before and after shot inside the water pump and water tube outlets. Views of the cracks are not much different than before but I did promise to show you all. Now the water tube ports before & after - Now the cooling chamber through the water pump inlet - Now the cracks - first is Driver side rear Now the Passenger side front crack - So EdinMass is asking if I have searched for another block yet and mentions that cracks often extend past what is seen. The answer is I have sort of looked. I have fished around on the internet and not yet located anything from 1921. A 1919 and 1923 block has been offered and I am keeping those replacement ideas on the back burner right now. I prefer to keep the car a 1921 throughout but ultimately may have to change that mindset. I believe that 1921 & 1922 blocks are similar with the raised, machined flat platform for a valve cover across all of the top of the block as well as having valve cover studs embedded. The 1919 block does not have the machined flat top for a cover or the cover studs. I am not sure if the 1923 block differs from the 1921. Morgan has pointed out earlier in this thread that the blocks have the same part number but there are some differences in the castings between years. At this time I am not giving up on this block. I will take it to a local shop and have it Magnafluxed to determine if these cracks extend beyond what we can see. Based on what we find out I can use the Magnaflux information to decide if the block is fixable or a garage-barn anchor for my building in the tornado alley State of Windiana. I should also note that I greatly appreciate the machine shop recommendation from Old Buicks 2 - I will talk to them after my local Magnaflux check. That is just the kind of help we all look for on this forum - recommendations of great experiences and great work from competent tradesman who provide good service. I will look through my pictures and progress on this car but I think that I am now caught up the status of this car. I will keep adding content as I go, but my postings and updates may come a little slower in real time. Thanks again for everyone's support and contributions. In the meantime - I have to get my hands dirty again so you can see I am making progress..... Edited October 28, 2022 by IFDPete wording (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbbuick22 Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 Sleeve???? Have you checked the bores for size and taper? Usually #6 has the largest amount of taper. .015 to .020 I do have a spare block but it has a crack the same as yours, but at #1 cyl Good luck John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted November 5, 2022 Author Share Posted November 5, 2022 (edited) Radiator - Filled and flushed I filled and flushed the radiator yesterday and the good news is that it seems to be holding water and leak free. Edited November 5, 2022 by IFDPete (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted January 19, 2023 Author Share Posted January 19, 2023 (edited) Cracked Engine Block............ FIXED !!!!!!! As promised an update to my revival saga and results of my engine block repair decisions. Some folks messaged and suggested that I use JB Weld to repair my engine block. It would have been a lot less money spent and may have worked. However, I wanted a more permanent repair that would enhance the structural stability of the cracked area. I was concerned that the spider webbed crack in my block might have expanded some when the block heated up and caused the epoxy to repair to fail. So in my mind I had two repair options left...weld it or stitch it. I met with a welder in November who assessed the two cracks in my cylinder block and said that he could probably fix them...but he added that there were no guarantees with cast iron welding. This welder was recommended by a local engine shop that I had talked to. The shop said that they do not do any welding and send work out to this guy due to his experience. I visited with the welder and he showed me around the shop. He said he would heat up the block and keep it hot while he welded. He also said he would slow cool the block over a couple days. The welder did seem knowledgeable and was highly recommended.....but I was a little unsettled that he would not guarantee that it was going to work or that he would not do more damage by heating up the block. He quoted me a price of $1000 to weld the two cracks. @edinmass messaged me and recommended that I have an experienced stitcher he had used in the past look at it. I sent the stitcher some pictures and spoke to him over the phone. He said he could fix both cracks for $500. His name is Frank Casey in Millbury Massachusetts (his contact info is below). I decided to get the cracks stitched and dropped the block off in early December. It was an easy decision as the price was half of the welding quote and that there was not going to be any heating of the block to cause any further block damage. I just got the block back on Sunday. The stitch repair looks great and the repair was pressure tested to 40 lbs. PSI with no leaks. No further damage to the block and no damage to the cylinder walls. I am really convinced that I made the right decision and that it will be a problem free repair. I am very happy with the results and once the block it painted, you will hardly notice the repairs. Here are before and after pictures: CRACK #1 - Drivers side rear of block CRACK #2 - Passenger side front of block So If you need a crack fixed this is the guy to call. He is a great guy, easy to work with, fun to talk to, and he does great work as you all can see. I am over the moon with the completed job. Thanks @edinmass and thanks to Frank Casey. How awesome is that! So my car may live after all. I am another step closer to hearing this 102 year old girl sing! Now on to the pistons, rings, and cylinders. Edited January 19, 2023 by IFDPete formatting (see edit history) 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 Wow - he must have spent $300 in stitch bolts and drill bits! The repair looks great; I think you definitely made the right decision. Kudos to @edinmass for the lead. This forum is a terrific resource given the wealth of experience of the participants. I'll bet if you apply some enamel paint, let it just get tacky and dab it with a rag the texture will mimic the original casting. Do that two or three times and the repair will disappear... 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 Frank is a master craftsman. He makes his own screws, ties, and wedges. I seriously thought about getting into stitching after I saw Frank's shop and was looking to get out of the family business. In reality, it's seven years to become talented doing this kind of work full time. 99 percent of shops that use lock and stitch use it once every three years.. I have seen Frank cut out the side of an engine block to get to a spot inside, fix the crack, and then stitch the hole he made for the repair. If that block was welded it would be distorted and need re machining afterwords. And welding it would have been more expensive. Fun story, a few years back a good friend bought a nice big classic, and when he got it running found it had a cracked block. He was upset. I took one look at it and told him I could fix it with my cell phone. He called me a few choice names. Told me I was crazy........so we bet that my phone could do it. I called Frank who lived only 5 miles away. He came over the next day and fixed the car in the owners garage. Needless to say, I won the bet. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 I spoke with them and they said that with the crack on the curve, cold stitching is not an option for repair. So welding or brazing is the only option for this to be repaired. I will take better pictures of the crack once the block is out of the car. This line is from page one........notice so called "experts" who have opinions............and have no clue. This is a real problem in the hobby today. Very often people who know what they are talking about get pushed out by those who don't. The most important thing is - NEVER EVER PUT HEAT TO CAST IRON! 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted January 19, 2023 Author Share Posted January 19, 2023 @edinmass ...when you're right, you're right. The proof is in the pictures. I was told that stitching was not an option on this block. It was just a matter of finding the right person to do the job. Frank was that guy. Thanks again for the recommendation Ed. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 He definitely earned the $500. 👍 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 17 hours ago, Rock10 said: He definitely earned the $500. 👍 No kidding! Deal of the week! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted March 11, 2023 Author Share Posted March 11, 2023 (edited) More Progress... Gas Tank & Engine Block I used the 70 degree March weather last week to drop the fuel tank. It has been seeping tar like consistency drips (old gas in the tank I am sure) since I got it. Had to heat the fuel line banjo bolt with a torch to loosen up the hard old gas to a sticky tar. Then used a Dremel tool to cut the tops of the screws holding the fuel level sender unit off of the tank. The screws would not budge and were found to be rusted to the tank housing. Lastly, the gas cap would not budge to take off of the tank and I could not get good leverage while the tank was on the car due to the spare tire rack. Once the tank was off the car I used a torch to heat it up and could then get it free. Tank is full of rust - maybe a inch deep pile throughout the bottom of the tank. Some pinholes were found on the top and on the end sidewalls. Fuel sender apparatus was completely gone (rusted away - no sign of any part of it in the tank). I will have to replace or fabricate a replacement - not sure yet. Fuel sender screws will be drilled out of the tank and thread tapped. I took the gas tank to Ace Radiator in Fort Wayne, Indiana for repair and sealing. I had used Ace about 10 years ago to seal and repair my 1949 Buick Super gas tank and it is holding up well all this time. I then drove another 35 minutes to Cecil, Ohio to Harts Machine Service with my car's cylinder block. The machine shop will check for cylinder, piston, and ring wear and what is needed. A cursory eyeball check of things by the shop owner upon drop off showed that all that may be needed are rings and deglazing / honing. However, a more detailed exam with wear measures will be conducted and they will advise me. We shall see. Why take it to Harts Machine? Well, I was trying to find a local machine shop to check the block and no local shop wanted to touch the jughead. Folks on this forum had recommended some shops earlier in this thread but they were pretty far from me - about 5 hours drive. If they were the only option I was prepared to take the long drive. On a whim and with a stroke of luck, I called the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum and spoke with their Restoration & Maintenance Shop Manager. I told him that I knew that they did not do any outside work but did he know of a machine shop he would recommend if they had to send something out. He recommended Harts Machine - about a 3 hour trip from my home and close to Fort Wayne. Seeing as I needed to go to Fort Wayne for the gas tank anyway, I figured it wouldn't hurt to go a little further and check out Harts Machine. When I dropped off my block at Harts, I was given a tour of the shop. It is a pretty large shop and as we toured they pointed out many vintage parts they were working on... Here is a block from an Willys Whippet, Model A, Model T, a 1909 Brush, oh and here is a block from a Duesenberg from the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum....you get the idea. It looked to me like they know vintage cars. I will let you all know how things go. Edited March 12, 2023 by IFDPete wording (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share Posted March 13, 2023 (edited) Fuel Level Sender - 102 years of use, abuse and storage leaves me...nothing to work with! Below is a drawing from my 1921 Reference Book (Owners Manual) showing the fuel level sender that moves a very thin wire to the fuel gauge mounted on the dashboard. The wire has to travel about 2.5 inches to mechanically move the gauge from empty to full and is float actuated as shown. This wired sender unit is for closed cars only in 1921. The open cars have a different spiral float actuated gauge mounted on the gas tank with no in car indicator. Below is all that is left of this fuel level sender mechanism after 102 years of use, abuse & long term storage in adverse conditions: Nothing is really left to work with in resurrecting the gas gauge. My long term goal is to attempt to build a mechanism that will move my gauge wire and create a working gas gauge. My only reference is the drawing from my manual. It appears to be a spring loaded wire puller. Does anyone have reference materials or pictures / drawings of a similar unit? Any other brand of car use a similar unit? Has anyone ever created one on their own? If so, what parts did you use? Thanks - Pete Edited March 13, 2023 by IFDPete (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 I don't think there was a spring in the sender mechanism. It appears that the cable is attached to a sleeve on the float arm and the sleeve is closer to the pivot when emty than when full. That reduces the ratio of cable travel to float travel. That geometry could be examined on paper with a drawing compass and dividers. Could you use bicycle brake/shifter cable and housing to replace the wire? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share Posted March 13, 2023 Nat - I agree on the sleeve or sliding piece. The bend in the middle of the float rod looks to be designed to limit the sleeve travel. Not sure if the drawing is showing a spring or not. Tough to tell what the part is that connects to the sliding sleeve. As far as wire goes, yes bike cable could work and has been talked about in other threads. I have thin piano wire to rewire the existing cable sheathing. I don't think wire will be an issue for me. The float sender mechanism is my problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 Get a sense for how the gauge feels and behaves when moving the wire. Mock it up with wood sticks, nails, coathanger and ? to get the right amount of cable and float arm travel. Sealed up cork is one possible float material. If piano wire might get rusty, stainless steel or silicon bronze mig welding wire might work. Solid wire will do better on a push than would bicycle cable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 Here is a diagram and associated service bulletins for cable actuated fuel gauges. This might be a few years newer than 1921 but should provide a few clues for fabricating a replacement 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 That describes a return spring within the gauge itself. It looks like what Johnny Monroe reffered to as "just the same only a little different". https://damnyankee.com/johnny-monroes-junkyard/ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 I had the gas-by-wire gauge out on my '25 Nash last summer to clean it and stop leaks from bad gaskets.... 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share Posted March 13, 2023 (edited) @Oregon Desert model 45 Thanks for the post on the later years sender unit. Good for visual on how things were done in later years. Also the service bulletin with maintenance, set up, and testing with be tremendously useful to me. 1921 fuel gauge in my dash is not spring loaded. That would account for what looks like a spring mounted tensioner on the 1921 fuel tank sender drawing. The wire needs a tensioner to keep the wire from folding / curling between the tank and the gauge. Probably a very light tension spring. Same idea as later years, just with the wire tensioner on the tank end in 1921 rather than the gauge. @Lahti35 there is a lot to look at in your Nash post and I thank you for the reference. I was wondering if other makers had wire gauge setups. Your post will be a great look at your Nash revival journey and good comparison for my efforts in resurrecting my car. Recreating my fuel level sender will be an exercise in math, geometry, repurposing parts, fabrication, and resourcefulness. It will take some time but I believe the mission will be successful. Edited March 14, 2023 by IFDPete wording (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 I wouldn't worry about spot on accuracy throughout the whole range as long as you can tell by the gauge that it's time to get more fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted June 8, 2023 Author Share Posted June 8, 2023 Fuel Tank Back from Repair & Sealing I received my fuel tank back from the shop a few weeks ago but had forgotten to update this saga. Shop said the tank had "more holes than the Titanic." All the rust flakes inside the tank before repair were the two disintegrated baffle walls. Shop put in two new baffles, lead soldered the holes, replaced the tank end walls, coated the interior, pressure tested the tank and then put a primer coat on it. I will paint it when I get closer to reinstalling it. I am going to work on the fuel level sender before painting because I will probably have to do a lot of test fitting to get it right. Here is before and after fuel tank pictures: 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted September 1, 2023 Author Share Posted September 1, 2023 Engine Block back from Machine Shop - I received my engine block back from the machine shop and cylinders were within required tolerances. Shop said we could just deglaze the cylinders and re-ring the pistons. So that work was done and I went and picked up the block & pistons. The weather has been great the past few days in Indiana so I took the time to paint the block. Taping off the block for painting was tedious and took me about 2.5 hours to complete the prep. Now that the block is painted you have to really look to see where any of the stitching was done to fix it. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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