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72 Centurion Convertible


NC-car-guy

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Yes. Its the positive ventilation feature. 

Here is a picture of the 72 heater control valve. 

The visual difference for the prior version is the vacuum hose nipple. This one comes out and makes that 90° turn. The other one has a straight nipple. If you have the right one it could be stuck too. Like I said, in 72 the valve uses vacuum to shut off the coolant to the heater core. 

Radio likely blew the fuse. Wondering if it has any thing common to the horn issue?  Not a likely scenario but sometimes strange things are set up. 

20211029_215237.jpg

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1 minute ago, JohnD1956 said:

Yes. Its the positive ventilation feature. 

Here is a picture of the 72 heater control valve. 

The visual difference for the prior version is the vacuum hose nipple. This one comes out and makes that 90° turn. The other one has a straight nipple. If you have the right one it could be stuck too. Like I said, in 72 the valve uses vacuum to shut off the coolant to the heater core. 

Radio likely blew the fuse. Wondering if it has any thing common to the horn issue?  Not a likely scenario but sometimes strange things are set up. 

20211029_215237.jpg

Replaced fuse...

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11 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Yes. Its the positive ventilation feature.

 

Very important on convertibles!  ;)

 

Just be glad that it's a '72 and not a '71 with the factory installed trunk leak -- er, I mean 'flow-through' ventilation system...

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Drains? What drains?🤨

 

66-70 E-body folks have that plugged drains problem too. 

 

My 64 Oldsmobiles have a screen under the cowl vent grille that deters a lot of the detritus that plugs body drains. No such thing on later cars, but the way E-body and 71 trunk louvers are designed a screen might have created as many problems as it solved.

 

Re scissor top: not one of GM's better designs. Made sense on Corvair (what it was originally designed for) with smaller size and need to keep hydraulic fluid out of a hot engine compartment. Biggest benefit on the B convertible was that it allowed use of the 2dht rear seat which reduced costs. Even meticulously maintained ones always have some slop and clumsiness in the mechanism.

 

Before you ever attempt to operate that top: make sure the rear window guide links are in place and connected. If car has its correct glass window it might save you a shattered window.

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3 minutes ago, rocketraider said:

Drains? What drains?🤨

 

66-70 E-body folks have that plugged drains problem too. 

 

My 64 Oldsmobiles have a screen under the cowl vent grille that deters a lot of the detritus that plugs body drains. No such thing on later cars, but the way E-body and 71 trunk louvers are designed a screen might have created as many problems as it solved.

 

Re scissor top: not one of GM's better designs. Made sense on Corvair (what it was originally designed for) with smaller size and need to keep hydraulic fluid out of a hot engine compartment. Biggest benefit on the B convertible was that it allowed use of the 2dht rear seat which reduced costs. Even meticulously maintained ones always have some slop and clumsiness in the mechanism.

 

Before you ever attempt to operate that top: make sure the rear window guide links are in place and connected. If car has its correct glass window it might save you a shattered window.

There are window guides too?  Hell I haven't even found the guides to these little cables everybody's talking about this is really too much work

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Welcome to scissor top world!

 

Look in the top well area behind the seat. You should see a flat bar poking thru the well liner on both sides. They should be connected to pins at the bottom corners of the rear glass. These pull the glass down, rearward and under the top opening when top is lowered.

 

The roofrail guide cables were a 71 thing and phased out early in 72 model year.

 

No need to fear a scissor top. Just be very observant of everything, keep it lubricated and operate it the way the owner's manual describes. 72 Fisher Body Manual is a good investment. It covers the convertible top in detail.

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21 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

There are window guides too?  Hell I haven't even found the guides to these little cables everybody's talking about this is really too much work

It isn't once you get it right, I'd be bitching up a storm to the previous owner for not disclosing and issue with the top, having known that before hand would have been a $1500 hit on the price I would have offered 

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2 minutes ago, Y-JobFan said:

It isn't once you get it right, I'd be bitching up a storm to the previous owner for not disclosing and issue with the top, having known that before hand would have been a $1500 hit on the price I would have offered 

Previous owner is convinced, like others, that these tops require manual intervention to go up and down.

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52 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said:

Previous owner is convinced, like others, that these tops require manual intervention to go up and down.

That's BS, I posted the video of a properly working top earlier and as you can see, it folded flawlessly, anything else is an excuse for a non properly maintained top.  I have never had to help any of mine, once down if you are putting on a hard customline cover on you might have to give it a little push especially if it is new top, but anything more than that it's not working properly.  In fact, I have often done it sitting at a stop light and certainly without having to get out of the car. 

 

 Excuses are for Fords 

 

 

Edited by Y-JobFan (see edit history)
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Olds and Pontiac owners' manuals say lower the top to approximately 2/3 way down, then stop and tuck/fold the top fabric to keep it in the top opening. Once that's done lower the top to the actuator stops and install the boot cover. Buick OM doesn't say that?

 

My habit was putting the side windows down before operating the top up or down. Figured that was one less risk of breaking something when that top slapped down on the windshield header.

 

You'll get used to the scissor top's quirks. Just remember if something doesn't seem right with it, stop and put it back where it was. Guy on an Olds forum just got a 75 Royale ragtop and the 3d time he operated it the shoulder bolt on the main hinge threaded itself out of the hinge. Get the Fisher Body Manual and study the top frame diagrams.

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Now the car keeps blowing the fuses on the turn signals I've had enough every car I buy and get excited about having turns into a giant piece of s***. Once I get the title for North Carolina on this one it too will be for sale I'm done expecting anything decent out of old cars

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Try to knock off one thing at a time and it will be less overwhelming.  Every car I buy has a massive laundry list of crap that needs tending.  Most of the stuff on those lists are things that the seller did not disclose, or didn't think they warranted disclosure.  Yours is a nice car...just gotta work out the bugs.

 

I am working a deal on a 58 Limited right now, and I will guarantee that it has the same massive list of issues that I hadn't planned on....on top of the stuff I know about.  Older owner that had the car for 30+ years and never lifted a finger to fix it.  Just drove it.  "Yes, I drive it all the time!  Been that way the whole time I've owned it!"  Uh huh...

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1 minute ago, Smartin said:

Try to knock off one thing at a time and it will be less overwhelming.  Every car I buy has a massive laundry list of crap that needs tending.  Most of the stuff on those lists are things that the seller did not disclose, or didn't think they warranted disclosure.  Yours is a nice car...just gotta work out the bugs.

 

I am working a deal on a 58 Limited right now, and I will guarantee that it has the same massive list of issues that I hadn't planned on....on top of the stuff I know about.  Older owner that had the car for 30+ years and never lifted a finger to fix it.  Just drove it.  "Yes, I drive it all the time!  Been that way the whole time I've owned it!"  Uh huh...

It's just ridiculous I bought this car thinking it was done. Everything except the AC appeared to work when I got it and now slowly but surely things are just falling apart. I bought the car at full price and expected it to not come to Pieces after 2 weeks of ownership.

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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Adam speaks the truth.  Every car has its problems which is why it is put up for sale to begin with. Some problems can be large and some are easily solved, but few cars are ever done when sold.  Make a list of what needs to be fixed and do it seasonally. Like the top for example. That can be done at some future point as long as you get the pattern for folding the material as part of putting it down. 

 

Has this car's electrical system been modified by past owners?  If not, do the 4way flashers work?  The fix might be as simple as a dual filament light bulb which has crossed elements in the bulb (yes, personal experience). 

 

The 72 Buicks are great cars. Don't throw out the baby with the bathwater. 

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In the words of the great philosopher @Mudbone  "ifn it wer easy, everbody would be a doin it". It's all part of old car ownership, you know that. Hell, actually even new car ownership, just ask @Matt Harwood.  My Estate Wagon was in great condition when I bought it but I can't count on both hands all the frustrating big and little things I've had to do to it in trying to keep it dependable and roadworthy. Count yourself lucky you don't have a wife who gets hyper excited and just sits looking out the window with steam coming out of her ears over a little roadside breakdown. This is a beautiful car Matt, it's outward appearance is evidence the PO spent lots of time and money on it, which typically is never recouped in the sell price.  I think you were lucky to have found it and at a time the PO was willing to sell. Winter is coming on, you've got a nice dry, heated garage to work on the little things that popped up. Enjoy taking that '57 hard top out this winter, get the rag top problems taken care of and we'll see you and it at Buick Gardens in the Spring brother.

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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1 minute ago, NC-car-guy said:

Omg.  Someone sent you a JB welded engine?

 

A "reputable" dealer sold me a Lincoln K V12 with a hole in the block covered in JB Weld, yes. Perhaps this will help you through--I know exactly how you feel:

 

 

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My experience with old cars...

 

Seems they know when they're in the hands of a new owner who might be inclined to spend a little time and money on them.

 

As an example, not nare one of my Oldsmobiles has made it six months from purchase without radiator problems. Bitch, swear, fix and enjoy the vehicle till next time it wants attention. Repeat as needed!🤪

 

I've also found a threat to call a nearby junkyard can sometimes make a car straighten up and fly right!

 

Turn signal issue isn't insurmountable. Armed with the 72 CSM with wiring diagram and basic electrical test equipment, it will boil down to a process of elimination. Start by checking all bulbs and sockets as JohnD suggested.

 

If they check good, unplug the rear lamp harness in the trunk which takes those out of the circuit. If fuse doesn't blow you've isolated the problem to the rear lights.

 

Keep isolating sections of the circuit until fuse doesn't blow, then find the culprit and repair.

 

No need to ditch a car that nice over typical 50 year old car needs.

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19 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

 

A "reputable" dealer sold me a Lincoln K V12 with a hole in the block covered in JB Weld, yes. Perhaps this will help you through--I know exactly how you feel:

 

 

Holy .... you are a better man than me I would have lit a match, called up a voodoo priest and watch the whole damn thing go to the ground😱

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1 hour ago, MrEarl said:

In the words of the great philosopher @Mudbone  "ifn it wer easy, everbody would be a doin it". It's all part of old car ownership, you know that. Hell, actually even new car ownership, just ask @Matt Harwood.  My Estate Wagon was in great condition when I bought it but I can't count on both hands all the frustrating big and little things I've had to do to it in trying to keep it dependable and roadworthy. Count yourself lucky you don't have a wife who gets hyper excited and just sits looking out the window with steam coming out of her ears over a little roadside breakdown. This is a beautiful car Matt, it's outward appearance is evidence the PO spent lots of time and money on it, which typically is never recouped in the sell price.  I think you were lucky to have found it and at a time the PO was willing to sell. Winter is coming on, you've got a nice dry, heated garage to work on the little things that popped up. Enjoy taking that '57 hard top out this winter, get the rag top problems taken care of and we'll see you and it at Buick Gardens in the Spring brother.

Speaking of the 57 I got the new radiator in. I made my mounts, built new mounts for the fan shroud and now it runs great runs nice and cool. Had it on the lift the other day looking at what suspension parts I want to replace and realized that the motor mounts are flat. How dumb can I be? Putting the new radiator and everything and not looking at my 102,000 mile motor mounts. I have ordered those and the transmission mounts but I'm certain that is going to end up requiring me to adjust at least the shroud mount if not the radiator mounts..😒😵

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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7 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

. I have ordered those and the transmission mounts but I'm certain that is going to end up requiring me to adjust at least the shroud mount if not the radiator mounts..😒😵


If you replace engine and tranny both you “might” be ok, it’s when you only replace one or the other that it angles the fan into the radiator. Don’t ask me how I know,

good luck

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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We've all got different levels of tolerance for things that don't work right or at all, as long as the car still operates well.  At least, so far, the "issues" have been things which might be done without the need of a chassis lift.  

 

Getting the electrics reliable can take some time.  Getting the conv top mechanism working as designed, folding the top when lowering, can take some time.  BUT getting those things fixed/figured out CAN be very rewarding when they don't require attention again anytime soon, to me.  Plus knowing that YOU fixed what the prior owner(s) allegedly could not!

 

Consider making sure the top folds as it should when lowering in the same orientation of sitting on a clean towel when you might wear blue denim jeans (considering that the "blue" will tint the white vinyl interior!!!), just past of the deal of taking care of things.  Making sure it operates and folds correctly can prolong the life of the top, too.  Perhaps Pontiac and Olds owners might not have been able to replace tops as often as Buick owners could?  LOL  Take care of it like you want/expect it to last 50 years.  Then the time spent to ensure it folds correctly can become a "time investment" in longevity of the top.

 

Also, make sure the top is conpletely DRY before lowering/folding it.

 

In general, take care of the car and become friends with it.  Pay attention to its needs and take care of them best you can.  Learn how it likes to drive and act, rather than you expecting it to drive/act a particular way.  That way, everything will work better and be more fun.  Yep, even pamper it a little, too!  

 

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

Edited by NTX5467 (see edit history)
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It sounds like the seller was far from honest, you can bet these things just didn't suddenly start going.  Unfortunately everyone in the hobby has come up against this type seller whether it be for a car of for parts.  Just hope karma bites the seller in the ass.   As said just start doing one thing at a time and get it done.  You learned a valuable lesson, even if you can't go look at a car pay someone that has good knowledge to go look at the car for you.  But I think overall you have a good car once a few of the gremlins ironed out.  As also mentioned,you are dealing with a 50 year old mechanical piece of equipment, things are not always going to be top down sunshine, sometimes you are going to get caught in the rain and soaked 

 

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1 minute ago, Y-JobFan said:

It sounds like the seller was far from honest, you can bet these things just didn't suddenly start going.  Unfortunately everyone in the hobby has come up against this type seller whether it be for a car of for parts.  Just hope karma bites the seller in the ass.   As said just start doing one thing at a time and get it done.  You learned a valuable lesson, even if you can't go look at a car pay someone that has good knowledge to go look at the car for you.  But I think overall you have a good car once a few of the gremlins ironed out.  As also mentioned,you are dealing with a 50 year old mechanical piece of equipment, things are not always going to be top down sunshine, sometimes you are going to get caught in the rain and soaked 

 

I paid.. $400 for an inspection and $100 for an appraisal.  The seller only put 300 miles on the car in the last 20 years.  The worst thing for a car is not driving it.  I thought he meant 32k miles since resto.....but he meant 32k since new.  Again I've dragged 50 and 60 yo rust buckets up for less and driven them more.

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1 hour ago, NC-car-guy said:

I paid.. $400 for an inspection and $100 for an appraisal.  The seller only put 300 miles on the car in the last 20 years.  The worst thing for a car is not driving it.  I thought he meant 32k miles since resto.....but he meant 32k since new.  Again I've dragged 50 and 60 yo rust buckets up for less and driven them more.

Yes sir. Sitting makes them rot. Sorry this one has been trouble. Your Buick is like a 75 Caprice convertible my brother purchased in the late 80s.  Waited for summer to hit and drive at the beach.  It made it to the beach and then spent the next 5 days at Aamco getting a transmission rebuild.  It was not the greatest of cars even at 12 years old. It had other issues. He sold it after that. 

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My approach with these kinds of issues is to begin the investigation by looking for deviations from original made by a previous owner.  99% of the time the root cause is found nearby.  I wholeheartedly agree that having a car sit for long periods without regular use leads to issues once it begins to be used again.  That's why I try hard to exercise my cars year-round.  Even during the dead of winter I will take advantage of a clear, cold day with dry roads to exercise them at least 10 or 20 miles to ensure all fluids are at operating temperature and fresher gas is run through the carb.  I keep the tanks filled with non-ethanol gas during winter to minimize condensation.

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Sounds like your inspector didn’t do their job, an appraisal is a worthless piece of paper, that’s one of the most corrupt things in the industry.  You’re always better off trying to find someone on a forum like this that knows the cars that live in the area to look for you rather than a general automotive inspector.  You can’t blame the car for the seller and inspectors failure to disclose and point out the cars flaws.  Even the hood issue should have been a $1000 hit on the price you paid 

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I'm thinking the turn signal issue and the horn issue might be related. I unhook the radio since it had stopped working I was wondering if it was shorted inside and feeding back to that same fuse since the turn signals and the radio are on that fuse. Sometimes when I turn the key on the horns blow without touching the wheel. So I've had those disconnected since I got the car. I noticed this morning that the fuse for the turn signals and radio blows as soon as you turn on the ignition.... maybe my ignition switch or my steering column wiring has a short?

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33 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said:

maybe my ignition switch or my steering column wiring has a short?

 

That sounds like a possibility.  I presume the car has a tilt column?  Maybe start looking in the area of the joint.  You can try removing the fuse and clip one lead of an Ohm meter to the load side (not the hot side) of the fuse block.  Ground the other lead and try to pull and/or wiggle the cable in the column (e.g., slowly tilt the wheel up and down).  If you read intermittent continuity you've found the problem.

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