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Maybe parting out a 1938 STATE COMMANDER


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Hi All - I messed up when a lady cut in front of me then suddenly stopped at a green light!  The 38 may be totaled per the insurance adjuster. If so I may buy it back and either fix it or part it, depending on if I can find parts. 

If I part it below is a list of what I know are good rust free parts. If anyone is interested PM me with an amount you will pay + shipping and what part it is. I will send back a pic of the parts wanted. 

 

Right & Left Cathedral head light bucket and glass.

Front re-chromed bumper

Rear re-chromed bumper

All 4 doors including glass (Glass in drivers side delaminating) and trim and handles

Rear wing windows and surrounding rubber seals

Trunk

Drivers side rear fender with tail lights

Passenger side rear fender (has some damage but repairable) with tail lights

GAS tank with filler & cap

Engine - complete with all parts needed to run 6 cylinder rebuilt runs very well as used 4 or 5 times a         week and put 7000 miles on it in last 4 yrs. 

Transmission 3 speed syncro 2nd & 3rd rebuilt with shifter and knob

Differential ( not sure of gearing) rebuilt as original

New drive shaft and universals

5 wheels with good white walls (Coker) 2 are only 6 months old

Seat frames- front & rear cushions were redone and front has seat belt modification to side

Steering column, wheel (minor cracks but usable) & gear box

Hood with trim and ornament

Two fog lamp housings (no lens or bulbs.

Dash with original instruments (oil, temp, gas, amps, speedo -80,000+ miles on it) all dash lights work

  lock & keys

Windshield - safety glass when rebuilt

Running boards

Body

Frame alone or complete running gear included

 

This is just a look and see if it is worth buying the car back and parting it out or fixing it.  It breaks my heart to think it may be gone but there is little I can do about that now.  If I was 20 years younger I would already be working on it but this old body just can't do that any longer.  Let me know, again by PM please, if there is any interest in these parts. Front fender and grille are available also but I don;t think they are salvageable unless you need the rear half of the fenders.

dave s 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by SC38DLS (see edit history)
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Hey SC38DLS: Don't give up. It doesn't look hurt that bad. Something similar happened to a guy up here in WA with a 38 Pontiac last year. Friends online dug in to help find parts, It took a little while but it is back on the road now and looking like it never happened.

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Thanks guys - The biggest problem is the fenders - The appraiser said they are almost impossible to find. These are bent up to the point he said they would spend 20-30 hours to get them straight and even then they probably would still have issues.  I just hate to see a car that still rums and drives so well get junked.  I am really torn between fixing it and giving up on it and start looking for something else. 

dave s 

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DevilBuick. The biggest problem is going to be the insurance company. I don’t think I want to deal with a salvage title but that maybe the only way I can keep it and make it viable $ wise. I just have to wait and see the options once they get all the paperwork done. My guarantee $ may make it the only way to go. If the adjuster can find fenders it may work out also. Time will tell. 
dave s 

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How sad, after what you went through to fix your engine problem fixed.

The parts are out there.  I'm not sure if you're an SDC member.  Shall we cross-post this on their very active forum?  Also, the Antique Studebaker Club can be a big help here.  Also Studebaker Addicts on facebook (I know, might be distasteful for some, but a lot of things turn up there too).

Sure seems like I just saw '38 front sheetmetal for sale somewhere.  Just can't remember where it was.

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8 hours ago, SC38DLS said:

The appraiser said they are almost impossible to find.

And he knows this HOW?

Check with the Studebaker Drivers Club guys or anyone in the Antique Studebaker Club.

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It’s a wait and see right now. At least for a week or so until I find out what the numbers are.  I plan to take it to a shop or two just to get their opinions and cost if possible. 
I have some inquiries on parts I am hoping to hear back on soon. The fenders are the biggest unknown. 
Kurtruk you may have seen a left front fender for sale on another thread by Studeq which is below this one. I’ve PM’d him but no response yet. My biggest hope is I can save it. It’s just too much fun and nice not too. 
dave s 

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I am so glad nobody was hurt.  It seems to me worse cars are pulled out of barns and fields and restored all the time.  I am surprised your insurance is not for an "agreed upon value".  If that were the case they would just write you a check and walk away.  They still might be willing to do that...

 

Nathan

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Nathan, that’s the problem. I have an agreed upon value. They pay it and take the car. Or I can buy it back but it has a salvaged title which is the problem. 
The adjuster said any used part must be near perfect or Hagerty doesn’t accept it. 
 

I’ll try RBK to see if he has the fenders. 
dave s 

Edited by SC38DLS (see edit history)
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Thanks Robert. I believe Studeq is nearby you also. . If he has the fender I will still need a right fender, so if anyone knows of one please let me know. 

I will get final information next week per the ins people regarding what they will do. 

I will let everyone know ASAP.

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tbh I don't think the car will be much worse off value wise with a salvage title, especially if you keep documentation on the incident that caused it (and how it was repaired) for a potential future owner. 

So if they dont agree on a repair buy it back and fix it, just my opinion of course. If you cant find a State fender (one or both) I would surmise the State headlight area could be grafted into a non-State piece... beautiful car!

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Thank you- I will let you know, I need the final insurance info which should be to me by next week before I make any decision. I do appreciate all of you that are trying to help me save the car. If I can source the two fenders I am almost positive I will keep the car and fix it myself. Another project may be fun at my age. Please don't tell my wife until it's final or I'll be sleeping in the car.

dave s 

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Someone mentioned salvage titles. Do they even have such things for for 80 year old cars? Silly if so. How that works may vary by state, but if possible cut a deal where they write you a check for the damage, rather than buying the car and selling it back to you. Keep the car in your name.

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8 minutes ago, Bloo said:

Someone mentioned salvage titles. Do they even have such things for for 80 year old cars? Silly if so. How that works may vary by state, but if possible cut a deal where they write you a check for the damage, rather than buying the car and selling it back to you. Keep the car in your name

Agree.  Would they be willing to cut you a check for $10/$25/$50 less than a total loss to avoid salvage title, providing you accept it?  And would they continue to insure once fixed?

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Bloo & Grimy, good idea and question that I can’t answer. I’ve never been in a situation like this and have no idea how Hagerty does this. I’m going completely by what the appraiser said so will have to wait until next week when they finish their analyses of the damage and parr’s availability. 
dave s 

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Does anyone know if a PRESIDENT fender will fit a State Commander? I know the wheel bases are different by about 6 inches but did they use the same fender? The STATE COMMANDER fender part # is 267670 and 71 for right & left with out tire well and 268223 and 24 for with tire well. 

dave s

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1 hour ago, SC38DLS said:

Does anyone know if a PRESIDENT fender will fit a State Commander? I know the wheel bases are different by about 6 inches but did they use the same fender? The STATE COMMANDER fender part # is 267670 and 71 for right & left with out tire well and 268223 and 24 for with tire well. 

dave s

No, it will NOT.  A President front fender is three inches longer.

 

Craig

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I hate to say it but it looks like the car will be totaled. I’m trying to get a reasonable number to buy it back but so far Hagerty is not to reasonable.  They have said the estimate to fix it is more than the value guarantee. I’ll keep every one up to date.  
dave s 

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  • 2 months later...

I settled with the insurance company. The original estimate to fix the car was over $32000 that included a $20,000 parts car. My car was valued at 15,000 so they said total it but said I could buy it back with a salvage title.  I used their estimate, took out the ridiculous parts car and 20% of left over amount as an incentive to them and said I would settle for the $9400. Saving them $5600 plus the cost of removing car and selling or junking. I kept my regular title. 
I've got a thread going on the general forum about the repairs I’m doing. So far I’ve got my time and about $1400 in cost to repair the car. I’m about ready to do the paint and get it back on the road. I’ve never done body work before but it’s been fun and a great learning experience. 
 

I blew out the driveshaft flex disk a few years ago. I replace it with a new shaft and modern universal joints. The part going into the trans and rear end was a problem. Back in the day the tolerance was not as accurate on gear teeth so I had to do a lot of filing to make today’s match up to the old parts. Worth doing but still a slow process. 
dave s 

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There is a thread called "1938 STUDEBAKER front end repair" on the general discussion forum I think it is 7 or 8 pages long now that I've documented every step of the rebuild- at the point of doing final primer before starting painting.  Here is what it looks like before, accident and now. 

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IMG_0021.JPEG

IMG_0070.JPEG

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  • 1 month later...

I had a drive shaft made to the proper length with the modern universal joints and slip joints with the correct number of teeth in the slip joints and size. Modern specs for teeth and groove size are much tighter than they were in the 1930’s. I chaulked the end of the slip joint and pressed it up against the transmission. Then I filed down each tooth by repeating the process until it slid into the trans. Did the same on the differential end. When it fit I put the shaft on to the universals and it fit. Probably not the easiest way to accomplish it but it’s the way I thought I could do it with the tools I had. I’ve put about 6000 miles on the car since doing it and it seems fine. Just be patient as it takes time to get it to fit properly. The trick is to mark the trans with a matching mark on the slip joint (use a good marker not caulk) so you always have the teeth lined up with the same corresponding teeth on the trans or differential. Hope that makes sense. PM me if you need more help. 
dave s 

Edited by SC38dls (see edit history)
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