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nvonada

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Everything posted by nvonada

  1. Even without a compression boost the extra octane lets you advance the timing which helps. I am running mine a few degrees ahead of what the book says.
  2. Wow. That last one looks like someone went after it with a backhoe!
  3. I found the John Deere "Corn Head" lube grease in tubes at the local dealer. I keep it in my least-favorite grease gun and just squirt it in. Do the same with the front knuckles of my Jeepster. I think they were around $4 each.
  4. My 41 calls for hypoid lube. I am not sure when Stude started using Dana axles though. I use standard 80/90 gear lube and it seems happy. OK, I should have read the post more carefully Sorry...
  5. I am impressed you are doing it with the engine in the car!
  6. You might get lucky. On my car if the dipstick rotated to a certain angle it will hit a crank counterweight when the engine is hot. Sounds just like a rod knock. I about had a heart attack! Now there is a line painted on the dipstick to keep that from happening...
  7. I am so glad nobody was hurt. It seems to me worse cars are pulled out of barns and fields and restored all the time. I am surprised your insurance is not for an "agreed upon value". If that were the case they would just write you a check and walk away. They still might be willing to do that... Nathan
  8. You will need a parts book (both chassis and body). A lot of what you need is available but some will be hard to find. I think I have a horn stashed and maybe some of the other parts. The plastic parts like the shifter handle used to be reproduced by Shrock Brothers but they have closed up shop. I think someone has the inventory and molds, check on the SDC boards. The SDC site also has links to a bunch of vendors. Not sure why your wiring is disposable, but wiring harnesses are reproduced too. Just bought one for mine.
  9. Gary, I had not seen that closeup of the carbs. The throttle linkage is a work of art! I also like the low-tech choke cable solution. Nathan
  10. If all else fails Apple Hydraulics will rebuild them for $275 a pop. https://www.applehydraulicsonline.com/collections/studebaker-lever-shocks.
  11. If it were me I would get it running and not change a thing. Except taking off those turn signals on the fenders. And maybe the windshield... Great find!
  12. Two quarts seems like a lot. Can you feel it if you stick your finger in there? If it were running out past the axle seals you would have seen it by now.
  13. Sorry, my car is a 41. But the wheel mounting is the same!
  14. I went back through my notes and could not find the ohm range. I sure wish I had measured that! I am pretty sure the gauge is just measuring the resistance between the two terminals. The gauge has two terminals marked 1 and 2 and those are connected directly to terminal 1 and 2 on the sender. In the factory harness the 1 wire was black/red and the 2 wire was black. Both were 16ga wires. The base plate should be grounded as well. At the factory they just assumed it would ground though the fuel tank but if you are painting everything you should run a separate ground wire to one of the bolts holding the sender in.
  15. Engine pans are often missing, mechanics would remove them and just leave them off. It took me a while to get a complete set for my car.
  16. Coils tend to be OK. Mine is at least 35 years old and could be 80 and still works fine. Wires, points, caps, rotors, and plugs are the big ones and you can get those. If the coil is bad any 6-V coil should work but if you have that armored cable from the key going to the coil it may have no place to attach to. Here is a screenshot from a scanned 1939 AutoLite catalog I have, might help in the parts search.
  17. +1 on the simple stuff. Even with a couple of weak cylinders the car should idle and run well, you will just not get as much power. And yours look pretty good. Check your ignition, then check ignition again, then maybe start messing with the carb after you check ignition.
  18. Your 37 wheel is probably very similar to my 41. You do need a puller, not hard to make. I used a Harbor Freight bearing separator, some threaded rod, and parts from a pitman arm puller. (tape was for protecting the paint) Worked perfectly and total cost around $20. More/larger pics here: https://stude.vonadatech.com/wp/steering-wheel-removal/
  19. +1 on the truck place. I found a shop that does about 50% trucks and farm equipment. Alignments on the Stude and my tube tires did not phase them a bit.
  20. Shims are used on the control arms. The spring does not have a lot of adjustment to it. You might check to verify the shocks are all good and the spring does not have a broken leaf. Here is a picture of the shims on mine:
  21. They do get hot. Modern cars put the resistors in the airflow from the fan to help keep them cool.
  22. Was porosity the purpose for the red lead paint that all the car companies seemed to use?
  23. Not much interest on the SDC board so I will try here. I am trying to thin out the clutter in the garage and top of the list are Studebaker parts for cars I don't own. So both of these are free to a good home (or even a bad one) as long as you are willing to pick it up or have it shipped. First on the list is a McCord radiator dated 1941 that is MUCH larger than the radiator on my Champion. It looks like a Stude radiator so it is probably for a President, Commander, or maybe a truck.The radiator is certainly used and looks to have some repairs on some of the tubes. I don't know if that was before or after the leaks that stained it. Shipping is the bear here. This thing probably weighs 40-50 pounds. Or you can pick it up in Delaware, OH just north of Columbus. More pictures and measurements are here:https://photos.app.goo.gl/cu49ZSTUfNH48uUo9Second item that has to go is a Studebaker fog light switch. Works fine, knob is a bit boogered up and the fuse is blown. Good backup for any on-off switch if your car uses this style. Obviously this is a lot easier to ship. No extra charge for the overspray.If interested PM me with your location and I can look up the shipping.Nathan
  24. What are you looking for? I have been stashing parts for a while now.
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