nvonada

Never know until you ask. My local NAPA had a fuel pump and wheel cylinders for my car in stock. At least 15 years means the fuel pump is probably alcohol safe.

I am almost certain you could never get the Commander brakes on a Champion. Diff and front spindles are very different. However, Turner was working on a disc brake kit for the prewar Champion. I saw a car at the Mansfield meet with it installed. That might get you better brakes and cut your problem in half. NOS shoes show up on e-bay from time to time, I got a set a few years ago. If they are bonded assume they are only good for cores.. Nathan

Sorry, I rebuilt mine because it was leaking but I have always had it adjusted to do nothing (not many hills around here!). I can't remember if pressing the brake turns it clockwise or counterclockwise, but I would try jacking up the front of the car, disconnecting the rod, have someone press the brake, and rotate lever as far as it goes. If the brakes do not hold when you release the brake pedal the HH is not working. Otherwise, it is an adjustment issue. Nathan

Nice. Props for using Studebaker truck to tow it home...

Not sure about the President, but on my Champion the fuel level in the tank when full is above the fuel pump level. If you have any sort of leak (or disconnect the fuel line from the pump) it will "self adjust" by leaking gas anywhere. Ask me how I know... Anyway, anything leaking up front could show up if you have a full tank, jack up the rear, or park on a hill. I have seen NOS tranny mounts on e-bay from time to time and if you check with our wonderful vendors you might get lucky. Of course, even a NOS mount has rubber 50 or more years old on it... Nathan

I have never seen anything like that. I would love to see what that looks like. I have probably bought 8 NOS shocks for mine to get 4 good ones and now one is leaking. Was there an accessory part number for that? Thanks, Nathan

Nice progress! NAPA does stock GL-1 gear lube, but they might not know it. Ask for part number 65-201 for a gallon container. When you have the tank out you may want to flush the fuel line as well. I got a LOT of gunk out of mine just hosing carb cleaner in the line and blowing it out with compressed air. If you tank (or line) rust, you will get a lot of rust in the sediment bowl of the fuel pump. Nathan

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This is what was in my pan after 60+ years of non-detergent oil: After cleaning it up I have run detergent oil ever since. Being able to run multi-weight oil is nice, it does not turn to tar when it gets cold. Nathan

Springs, adjusters, wheel cylinders, and drums were the same for all 39-46 Champions. 4G and 5G (42-46) list a different part number for the shoes. I have no idea what changed. Since all the hardware is the same, I imagine they are interchangeable. Nathan

Do you have the adjusters and bottom anchor in there? I think the normal vendors have the springs and the little squeeze clips that hold the shoes on. I am not sure about the larger c-clip that holds the shoes on at the bottom. Turner Brakes has (or had, it is not on the web site) a disc brake conversion for the front. If your front hubs or drums are questionable this would probably be a lot cheaper than buying the parts. Nathan

These manuals are not nearly as detailed as later manuals. They simply don't cover things that an experienced mechanic in 1939 should know. If you find an old Motors or Chilton's manual those will fill some of the gaps. And the body and chassis parts books are invaluable.

There is a chance the rubber retaining blocks will not survive. Mine were brick-hard. Pictures here: Steering Wheel | 1941 Studebaker Champion (vonadatech.com)

Sorry for the delay, I just saw this. I think the fade up near the button is actually how they were made at some point. Mine are both that way but I have also seen solid red ones. Might have depended on the supplier or maybe when they were made. There is a really solid market for these, I can't give you a price but put them on e-bay and you will get bids. If the bezels are not pitted I am certainly interested. If you list them or come up with a prices please let us know and I will take a look. I just went and did a search. Looks like several have sold on e-bay recently: 1941 studebaker tail lights: Search Result | eBay NOS Lenses sold for $400 a pair! Nathan

Another thing to keep in mind was that back when these were daily drivers every gas station had a mechanic who knew how to fix them. That will be you now so honestly assess your skills. I don't want to offend but the fact that you are asking these questions gives me pause. Is it really that big a deal to also have a semi-modern beater and keep the Stude just for fun?

Car is sold! Thanks for looking

Contact me at nvonada -at- vonadatech.com or call/text at seven-four-zero 815-4681 This 1939 DeSoto S6 Deluxe Coupe was purchased (I was told new) by my great-grandfather. In 1963 he gave it to my father (19 at the time) Dad decided to "improve" it by putting in an overdrive transmission. Then he found out the floorboards would not fit over the new tranny and the shift mechanism only worked in first and reverse. Then he went off to school and the military and never got back to it. The car was stored indoors ever since with a trunk full of parts including all the original drivetrain components. The engine had oil squirted in the cylinders and was turned over every year (that was my job as a kid). Three years ago, I offered to help get the car running again. New plugs, wires, and points and the car fired right up. But the water pump and core plugs leaked like crazy. So, we bought a bunch of parts and tore into the engine. Then we found the infamous water distribution tube had become one with the engine block. We had just got the bits of the old tube worked out of the block when my father passed away. Nothing has been done on it since. So, the engine cooling system is still torn down, but all the parts (new and old) are in the car. The car is all original except for the overdrive transmission. The original transmission, driveshaft, and floor panels are all in the trunk. The car has VERY little rust , some in back of the rear fenders and some behind the doors above the running boards. Trunk, doors, door frames, and underneath the car are all remarkably solid. There are several dents on the fenders. Bumpers and chrome are all there, but the chrome is a mess. All four hubcaps are there. The car had a new fuel tank installed in 1963 that looks like new. Windows all work, driver's window is cracked as is the vent window. All rubber is very old and tired. Original radio is in the trunk. One headlight and one taillight are broken, there is a new headlight lens (yep, in the trunk). Interior is intact and original but very dirty. Dash plastic is very brittle. Wiring is a mess, but the car cranked and started, and the ammeter and oil pressure worked. Not sure about the other gauges. Odometer shows 17k miles, which has to be 117k.. There is a heater under the dash that may be aftermarket, I don't know enough to tell. Several assorted parts and two extra wheels are in the trunk (it is a really big trunk). Tires hold air enough to move the car around. No brakes. A PDF of the service manual also included. Clean Ohio title. Located in Xenia, Ohio, asking $4300 OBO More pictures plus a video of the engine running at https://photos.app.goo.gl/1zVGqHTa4QE8ZyXF9

This circuit is super simple. One side of the horn should have battery voltage (-6V) all the time. Check it with a multimeter in volt mode or 6V test light. The other side is grounded when you press the horn button. Disconnect the wire from the horn that does not have battery voltage and connect a multimeter in continuity mode (ohms) to the wire and ground. The resistance should be infinite (no continuity). Push the horn button. Resistance should go to a few ohms. If the first test fails (no battery voltage) your voltage supply is the problem. If the second test fails your horn button wire or the contacts in the horn button is the problem. If both tests pass then the actual horn has a problem. Isolate the problem while changing as little as possible. If you take the horn apart without testing first you may well introduce a second problem and overlapping problems can be a real PITA to resolve. Good luck! Nathan

Glad you got it hooked up. I put a NOS shock on my car. Just to see if it worked I put it in a vice and moved it through the range of motion. First few times it felt terrible, then it seemed to get sorted and worked smoother and smoother. It has been fine ever since.

Pretty rare! How is the grill? That will get pricy if it is damaged. If it sits like that long enough somebody will chop it into a street rod...

You are probably on the right track. To verify the problem either run a jumper wire from one of the light mounting studs to the positive battery terminal and see if your lights get bright OR put a voltmeter between the + terminal and the mounting stud (or any other clean metal on the light). The voltmeter reading will tell you how much voltage you are "losing" due to bad grounds. You can do the same thing between the engine and the battery to make sure it is grounded well too. Don't forget it might not be the fender bolts too. It is possible the whole body (or at least the front clip) is not grounded well to the frame. An extra ground strap there is cheap insurance. Take out a fender bolt near the frame, clean everything, and attach the strap. My Jeep had a couple gremlins that a body ground strap cleared up.

Is that door panel original? If not whoever did the stitching did a really nice job!

Neat idea! The hammer with the long "ears" is a tack hammer and is certainly not a Studebaker tool. Neither is the steel pry bar next to the hammer. The Crescent adjustable wrench is from the right time period but I am not sure Studebaker would have included one. And the pin punch above the feeler gauges would be an odd thing to put in a factory tool kit. Nathan

Very nice. What is lurking behind it in the third picture?

Good to hear! We would love to see pictures of the project...