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About nvonada

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  • Birthday 03/25/1970

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    Delaware, OH

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  1. One idea would be to take all the parts somewhere that services tractors. The internals of your rod end look just like the reach rod on my tractor.
  2. Can you swap tires between the two cars just to test? I used to give my car hints rather than actually steer it. Rebuilding the front end helped a lot but it was still not great. New Coker radials and it drives like a new one. I adjusted the steering box but proper lube made a bigger difference. I started using the #00 (maybe #000?) John Deer Corn Head grease in there. It is thin enough move move around and thick enough to not run out. Nathan
  3. Welcome aboard and sorry for your loss. I can help you with #2. This is an open non-pressurized cooling system. If you overfill it it will dump the excess overboard. On my car if I fill it much beyond 1/2" over the radiator tubes it will do exactly what you describe. It is possible you have a compression leak or something but I would let it puke until it stops, see where it is, then keep an eye on it. I bet it is fine from then on. #3 sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. Does the car roll free in gear with the clutch depressed?
  4. Champion 6 plate. Here is mine:
  5. If the car is as nice as it looks in the picture that is a deal.
  6. Glad you found the problem! If you mean the distributor clamp then if it is loose it will move but it should not be loose. Some Autolites (and maybe others) had an octane adjustment for minor timing adjustments to compensate for fuel quality. If that comes loose your timing will bounce around a few degrees. Your troubleshooting steps were a bit, um, troubling. If a car will not start I use these steps: Check spark. Bright blue spark means ignition primary and secondary circuits work. Check static timing Check gas. Quick and dirty test is to pour a little in the intake. if the engine coughs time to check further into the fuel & carb Check compression I try to always assume the problem is in the ignition. Then when I am convinced it must be the carb I check ignition again. I find spark problems to be a LOT more common than fuel problems. A bad carb or carb adjustment will make the car run like crap but rarely will it not run at all. That goes double if the car was running recently. Carbs usually get worse over time, not stop working over night. A coil wire on the other hand can break any time...
  7. I crawled under my Champion and snapped some pictures. Captions in the info describe what you are looking at. I am not sure but I think everything from the brake handle to the end of the front cable is similar to your car. I can't remember how the rear cables attach to the brakes on a Commander so that might be different. https://photos.app.goo.gl/sDbyyQAb3dMwCZGV8 Nathan
  8. I hope the grills are in the trunk...
  9. If that is an inertial (bendix) type starter it has to be very free on the motor shaft to work reliably. Mine used to stick every couple years. I finally used a little graphite-based lock lubricant on the shaft and it has been fine since.
  10. On these fittings there should be a sealing washer top and bottom. Is the stripped end a flare fitting? If so you may be able to drill it out and tap the hole for a NPT fitting then use an adapter to the brake line.
  11. On my 41 trunk handle there was no hole. I was chicken so I took it to a locksmith who drilled a hole in the right spot to get the cylinder out.
  12. No, the commander wheel is different. I used to own one but sold it years ago. I may have pictures of both if anyone needs them.
  13. +1 on the old tires. Remarkably mine are still intact and somewhat pliable. In different places on the car they used sidewall, tread, and combinations of the two to get things to sit right. Nathan
  14. A big Harbor Freight bearing splitter makes a good start to a puller. I used that behind the wheel and a pitman arm puller hooked over the splitter to do the pulling. Pictures here: http://stude.vonadatech.com/wp/steering-wheel-removal/