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About nvonada

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  • Birthday 03/25/1970

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    Delaware, OH

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  1. A big Harbor Freight bearing splitter makes a good start to a puller. I used that behind the wheel and a pitman arm puller hooked over the splitter to do the pulling. Pictures here: http://stude.vonadatech.com/wp/steering-wheel-removal/
  2. Studes are a great choice. Compared to the other independents we have excellent vendor support and parts supply. Unless you are looking for a long-term project avoid rusty cars. Assuming you are on a budget I would look for a solid car as original as possible and focus on getting it running. Too many people get a "new" project car, tear into it, then realize they don't have the time, skills, or money to finish and end up with a pile of car parts rather than a car. Turning Wheels and the Studebaker forms are a great place to start looking, lots of knowledge and cars for sale. Best of luck! Nathan
  3. That big bolt is indeed a hollow "banjo bolt". Looks like you are getting close! >
  4. Does your oil smell like gas? Is it running out of the carb? Black smoke rolling out the back as you drive? I am not sure how you can get 3-4 MPG without the gas going SOMEWHERE it is not supposed to. Hopefully you just did not fill it up the whole way the first time. Just for reference I get about 20-22 in my Champion. My brick-shaped Jeepster with twice the horsepower gets more like 12-15 but I tend to put my foot in that too.
  5. One wheel or all of them? This can have several causes (assuming the car has hydraulic brakes, which I think it does?) Weak return springs A failing flexible brake hose acting like a check valve Corrosion or bad wear in a brake cylinder causing the piston to hang If all wheels maybe a faulty residual pressure valve Probably the thing to do is get the car on jacks and have someone hit the brakes while you spin each wheel to isolate the problem. Nathan
  6. Looks like a lot of the bolts broke off too. Good luck!
  7. Yes, brakes were centered and adjusted. I will have to check them again just to be sure. What I really need is a break in the weather. I just don't want to go out when it is 10 degrees out!
  8. This fall the brakes on my 41 Champion started to feel odd. The first time I pushed the pedal it would be a little soft but after that it would be fine for several minutes. Then it would be soft for one stroke again. The soft pedal was not an air-bubble sort of soft, more like when the brakes are really out of adjustment. I checked the adjustment and everything is good. My theory is that the residual pressure valve in the master cylinder was leaking. So I tore down the master cylinder and rebuilt it. Then the bottom dropped out of the thermometer and I have not been out since to finish bleeding the brakes so I don't know if I fixed the problem or not. The forced down time has me wondering if I did not jump the gun rebuilding the master. Any opinions? Besides the obvious that I should man up, brave the cold, bleed the brakes, and see for myself? Nathan
  9. You are way ahead of me. On a magneto ignition the switch grounds the magneto to prevent the plugs from firing, so you OPEN the switch to run the car (or plane, or lawnmower ). Glad you found the problem.
  10. Maybe it was not the durability of the car they were testing...
  11. Arm out the window is your best bet. Totally original! Your best improvement for safety is bright brake lights. Most on these old cars are horrible. Nathan
  12. Every wire in your pictures has electrical tape wrapped around it. That does not mean the wiring is bad or incorrect. But it does mean it was messed with by someone. I would NOT leave the battery connected until you get the wiring sorted. That is a super cool car and it would be a shame if it burned up. For testing you should get a multimeter and learn to use it. It is not hard to use or expensive. Even a test light would be big help. Electric work is daunting at first but once you learn a few basic rules and concepts it is not that complicated. Nathan