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About nvonada

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  • Birthday 03/25/1970

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    Delaware, OH

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  1. If the car is as nice as it looks in the picture that is a deal.
  2. Glad you found the problem! If you mean the distributor clamp then if it is loose it will move but it should not be loose. Some Autolites (and maybe others) had an octane adjustment for minor timing adjustments to compensate for fuel quality. If that comes loose your timing will bounce around a few degrees. Your troubleshooting steps were a bit, um, troubling. If a car will not start I use these steps: Check spark. Bright blue spark means ignition primary and secondary circuits work. Check static timing Check gas. Quick and dirty test is to pour a little in the intake. if the engine coughs time to check further into the fuel & carb Check compression I try to always assume the problem is in the ignition. Then when I am convinced it must be the carb I check ignition again. I find spark problems to be a LOT more common than fuel problems. A bad carb or carb adjustment will make the car run like crap but rarely will it not run at all. That goes double if the car was running recently. Carbs usually get worse over time, not stop working over night. A coil wire on the other hand can break any time...
  3. I crawled under my Champion and snapped some pictures. Captions in the info describe what you are looking at. I am not sure but I think everything from the brake handle to the end of the front cable is similar to your car. I can't remember how the rear cables attach to the brakes on a Commander so that might be different. https://photos.app.goo.gl/sDbyyQAb3dMwCZGV8 Nathan
  4. I hope the grills are in the trunk...
  5. If that is an inertial (bendix) type starter it has to be very free on the motor shaft to work reliably. Mine used to stick every couple years. I finally used a little graphite-based lock lubricant on the shaft and it has been fine since.
  6. On these fittings there should be a sealing washer top and bottom. Is the stripped end a flare fitting? If so you may be able to drill it out and tap the hole for a NPT fitting then use an adapter to the brake line.
  7. On my 41 trunk handle there was no hole. I was chicken so I took it to a locksmith who drilled a hole in the right spot to get the cylinder out.
  8. No, the commander wheel is different. I used to own one but sold it years ago. I may have pictures of both if anyone needs them.
  9. +1 on the old tires. Remarkably mine are still intact and somewhat pliable. In different places on the car they used sidewall, tread, and combinations of the two to get things to sit right. Nathan
  10. A big Harbor Freight bearing splitter makes a good start to a puller. I used that behind the wheel and a pitman arm puller hooked over the splitter to do the pulling. Pictures here: http://stude.vonadatech.com/wp/steering-wheel-removal/
  11. Studes are a great choice. Compared to the other independents we have excellent vendor support and parts supply. Unless you are looking for a long-term project avoid rusty cars. Assuming you are on a budget I would look for a solid car as original as possible and focus on getting it running. Too many people get a "new" project car, tear into it, then realize they don't have the time, skills, or money to finish and end up with a pile of car parts rather than a car. Turning Wheels and the Studebaker forms are a great place to start looking, lots of knowledge and cars for sale. Best of luck! Nathan
  12. That big bolt is indeed a hollow "banjo bolt". Looks like you are getting close! >