Trailer stabilizer jacks ?

[AdamInNH]

Hi folks:

 

Looking for some wisdom, here. I have a 24ft enclosed, bumper pull trailer. I want to be able to load/unload a car when the trailer isn't attached to the tow vehicle, during a multi-day event, for example. Previously, I had a gooseneck trailer with scissor-type jacks attached to the under-side frame corners. The downside of those jacks, especially in the rear corners, is they often would scrape or drag when entering a steeper driveway or on a bumpy show field.

 

Any suggestions, thoughts or direct experience with stable, portable jacks that I should consider? Please post links to specific jacks, or photos of what's worked for you.

 

Thanks.

 

Edited June 4, 2021 by AdamInNH (see edit history)

[Ken_P]

In the past, I’ve been successful by putting jack stands under the frame at the back of the trailer, just forward of the rear door, then unhooking the trailer. Gives you three points of contact plus the wheels, and prevents the front of the trailer from lifting the jack off of the ground when unloading or loading a car.

 

For the show field, may want to have 2 squares of plywood or something similar to prevent the jack stands from sinking into the turf.

Edited June 3, 2021 by Ken_P (see edit history)

[Bimus]

At one time I had a big block of wood about 14 x14 x 24  with rope handles  I could put it under the back of the trailer  and I used it  a lot when I had to jack up a car and get under it  .

[AdamInNH]

17 hours ago, Ken_P said:

In the past, I’ve been successful by putting jack stands under the frame at the back of the trailer, just forward of the rear door, then unhooking the trailer. Gives you three points of contact plus the wheels, and prevents the front of the trailer from lifting the jack off of the ground when unloading or loading a car.

 

For the show field, may want to have 2 squares of plywood or something similar to prevent the jack stands from sinking into the turf.

Ken:

On account of their ratcheting mechanism, jack stands aren't infinitely adjustable the way a screw mecahnism would be . Did you have any issue with being able to adjust them to the proper height on various surfaces?

[Jim Bollman]

After ripping off a pair of back trailer jacks when I forgot to retract them, I switch to small jack stands. Already left one pair of homemade ones behind one place. Now I hook a bungie to them and hook it up on the side somewhere to remind me to pull them out. I have a couple of pieces of plywood to put under them if the hight isn't right but normally not needed. 

[AdamInNH]

11 hours ago, Jim Bollman said:

After ripping off a pair of back trailer jacks when I forgot to retract them, I switch to small jack stands. Already left one pair of homemade ones behind one place. Now I hook a bungie to them and hook it up on the side somewhere to remind me to pull them out. I have a couple of pieces of plywood to put under them if the hight isn't right but normally not needed. 

Thanks, Jim. 
 

I think I’ll give your suggestion a try. Do you use jacks only in the rear corners or in the front, as well?

[charlier]

I have been using a set of 4 Aluminum RV Jack Stands for my car trailer for years now. Each jack stand supports up to 6,000 pounds per the manufacturer. I place all 4 of them right under the steel cross member at the ramp door of my trailer spaced evenly apart. Each jack stand sits on a 1 foot square steel plate that I bought separately which helps spread out the weight on soft ground or a blacktop parking lot and also provides more stability.

 

The BEST thing about these jack stands is that they use a screw design that provides maximum adjustability. For example if the ground under the rear of the trailer is not absolutely level you can vary the height of each jack stand in very small or not so small increments to make it level. That flexibility can be invaluable when parking a trailer at and AACA Event on a grass field. 

 

Click here so see just one example of the jack stands that I have been talking about.    

 

 

 

[Ken_P]

21 hours ago, AdamInNH said:

Did you have any issue with being able to adjust them to the proper height on various surfaces?

Nope. I get them close to the frame, then pick up the front of the trailer with the trailer jack, and that presses the back of the trailer frame into the jack stands. 
 

If you want more adjustability, you may be able to find a short set of screw jacks for the same effect.

[Jim Bollman]

13 hours ago, AdamInNH said:

Thanks, Jim. 
 

I think I’ll give your suggestion a try. Do you use jacks only in the rear corners or in the front, as well?

I use the tongue jack in the front. I can usually get close on the back jacks then jack the front up a little to get the back on the jack stands.

[Trulyvintage]

Personally

 

I would never load an average vehicle on or off a trailer by driving it unless it was attached to a tow vehicle.

 

Even at a car show or a swap meet - an unattended trailer detached from a tow vehicle is an open invitation to theft. 

 

Even if the grade the trailer is parked on is level - even if the trailer wheels are all blocked - if the trailer shifts while you are in the vehicle driving it on or off - the results can be disastrous.

 

My 35 foot custom built enclosed car hauler trailer is built on an 8 inch full perimeter steel tube frame - the sidewalls are built onto the perimeter frame - it weighs over 7K empty.

 

I winch all vehicles on & off whether they run or not by remote control.

 

If I was loading or unloading  a relatively lightweight vehicle like a Model T or a Model A into my trailer and had my F350 CC Dually detached for some reason - that would probably be OK - but I would not feel comfortable about it.

 

 

Jim

[Marty Roth]

In my opinion, there is too much potential for the trailer to shift, especially if you accelerate or hit the brakes-

just my 2 cents

[Mark Shaw]

On 6/13/2021 at 4:42 PM, Trulyvintage said:

I winch all vehicles on & off whether they run or not by remote control.

I do the same.  I have seen too many cars driven into the front of the trailer because of bad brakes or the driver's bad timing. 

Winching also minimizes the possibility of leaving the top up while driving into a low trailer.

[Marty Roth]

On 6/5/2021 at 9:13 AM, Ken_P said:

Nope. I get them close to the frame, then pick up the front of the trailer with the trailer jack, and that presses the back of the trailer frame into the jack stands. 
 

If you want more adjustability, you may be able to find a short set of screw jacks for the same effect.

I've used the same method in the past, but leaving the trailer hitched to the tow vehicle is safer!

Edited September 20, 2021 by Marty Roth
Spelling typos per weak battery on remote keyboard, now on iPhone (see edit history)

[AdamInNH]

6 hours ago, Marty Roth said:

I've used the saethod in the past, but leaving the taileritched to the tow vehicle is safer!

No question. Not always convenient, though, if I to need to use the tow vehicle and stash the car in the trailer during a multi-day event. 

[Ken_P]

To be clear, that is with the tow vehicle still attached. 

[Avanti Bill]

I block the back of the trailer in the middle with a 6x6  and then raise the tongue until it is tight.  Never had an issue loading or unloading with the truck unhooked.   Also this gives a angle to the deck so the car will roll out on its own under the control of the winch and won't roll over me on the way into the trailer.  Having built in rear jacks would probably be more trouble than throwing the block under the back of the trailer.

[Str8-8-Dave]

They make a load rated steady jack assembly that bolts or welds to the trailer frame.  I had a couple of 2500 lb rated ones on a 6 x 12 custom built BNM trailer.  They have a pull pin on the side to lock them up out of the way when trailering.  To deploy you pull the spring loaded pin, rotate the jacks into position and operate the screw handle at the top of the jack tube.  These had anti-skid flat feet.  When the jacks are deployed and the trailer is not coupled I used the dolly wheel tongue jack in tandem with the 2 steady jacks and drove 3000 lb tractors up the ramp tailgate onto the trailer which had a 5000 lb axle without any tipping or creeping.  The link gives an idea of what these are.  Reese, Curt and others make these. 

 

Curt 28304 Bracket Mount Swivel Jack - Farm Parts Store

 

 

Wish the 24ft enclosed car hauler I rented to tow my 31 Buick to Michigan from Illinois had these, might have avoided launching the tongue of the trailer thru the tailgate of my then brand new F350 Super Duty...

 

 

Edited September 29, 2021 by Str8-8-Dave (see edit history)

[Larry Schramm]

On 9/29/2021 at 3:35 PM, Str8-8-Dave said:

They make a load rated steady jack assembly that bolts or welds to the trailer frame.  I had a couple of 2500 lb rated ones on a 6 x 12 custom built BNM trailer.  They have a pull pin on the side to lock them up out of the way when trailering.  To deploy you pull the spring loaded pin, rotate the jacks into position and operate the screw handle at the top of the jack tube.  These had anti-skid flat feet.  When the jacks are deployed and the trailer is not coupled I used the dolly wheel tongue jack in tandem with the 2 steady jacks and drove 3000 lb tractors up the ramp tailgate onto the trailer which had a 5000 lb axle without any tipping or creeping.  The link gives an idea of what these are.  Reese, Curt and others make these. 

 

Curt 28304 Bracket Mount Swivel Jack - Farm Parts Store

 

 

Wish the 24ft enclosed car hauler I rented to tow my 31 Buick to Michigan from Illinois had these, might have avoided launching the tongue of the trailer thru the tailgate of my then brand new F350 Super Duty...

 

 

 

Ouch

[tomhank]

I have a LIBRA stabilizer jacks, Sturdy and solid stabilizers. Works well on our camper. These are better than what came on the camper. They have a more coarse thread so they let up and down quicker with less turns. It came with a mechanical speed wrench and a socket to use with a cordless drill. They came with sheet metal bolts which we used, but I can’t remember the drill size used to install.

Edited November 30, 2021 by tomhank (see edit history)

[Ed Nieves]

On 6/5/2021 at 9:54 AM, charlier said:

I have been using a set of 4 Aluminum RV Jack Stands for my car trailer for years now. Each jack stand supports up to 6,000 pounds per the manufacturer. I place all 4 of them right under the steel cross member at the ramp door of my trailer spaced evenly apart. Each jack stand sits on a 1 foot square steel plate that I bought separately which helps spread out the weight on soft ground or a blacktop parking lot and also provides more stability.

 

The BEST thing about these jack stands is that they use a screw design that provides maximum adjustability. For example if the ground under the rear of the trailer is not absolutely level you can vary the height of each jack stand in very small or not so small increments to make it level. That flexibility can be invaluable when parking a trailer at and AACA Event on a grass field. 

 

Click here so see just one example of the jack stands that I have been talking about.    

 

 

 

I have those and they work fine for me. 

[Larry Schramm]

On 6/3/2021 at 2:30 PM, AdamInNH said:

Hi folks:

 

Looking for some wisdom, here. I have a 24ft enclosed, bumper pull trailer. I want to be able to load/unload a car when the trailer isn't attached to the tow vehicle, during a multi-day event, for example. Previously, I had a gooseneck trailer with scissor-type jacks attached to the under-side frame corners. The downside of those jacks, especially in the rear corners, is they often would scrape or drag when entering a steeper driveway or on a bumpy show field.

 

Any suggestions, thoughts or direct experience with stable, portable jacks that I should consider? Please post links to specific jacks, or photos of what's worked for you.

 

Thanks.

 

 

I have these on my car trailer and they work fine.  They fold up under the trailer when not in use.  You just need to be sure that they lock in the up position or you will bend/break the jack off.  Plus there is no storing other jacks or blocks of wood anywhere.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Stabilizer-Telescoping-Accessories-Capacity/dp/B09BMX54HD/ref=asc_df_B09BMX54HD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=532606083338&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12496940625862324760&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9052760&hvtargid=pla-1465775779185&psc=1

[DeAnna Fleming]

I had a similar problem with the stabilizer jacks on my trailer. It wasn't steady when I tried to load and unload stuff without the truck attached. I tried a few different jacks, but none of them worked great. Then, getting another trailer would be better.

 

So, I decided to buy used trailers online. I found an excellent deal on a 20-foot enclosed trailer with the jacks I needed. When I drove over bumpy places, these jacks were strong and didn't drag on the ground. It was cheaper than buying a brand-new trailer, and it fixed my problem.

Edited December 18, 2023 by DeAnna Fleming (see edit history)