JohnD1956 Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 1 hour ago, 195354 said: I hope I have added the video correctly today. Youtube says the video is set to private, so it cannot be seen. But it sounds like you have hit a milestone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted August 15, 2021 Author Share Posted August 15, 2021 (edited) OK tried a few things in youtube hope it works now I did not save the changes Steve https://youtu.be/QnNJ2m0BB2s Edited August 15, 2021 by 195354 spelling (see edit history) 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 Hey! That is a cool video! Love the added top grill bar bling! 😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 Thought I would post a few pictures showing progress, I did the primer a few months back just getting to the pictures. I should have started with a rust free car. I have struggled with the formula for correct white getting close now. Few pictures from start to now getting close to installing body. Steve 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 24, 2021 Share Posted August 24, 2021 You are a better man than I am. Or nuttier!! Carry on. Ben 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 Back on the mighty Buick until another issue or project sidelines me. I did get sidetracked a bit on other projects around the place. One is I needed to work on an old crawler I have for the place. Tuned it up and serviced it was way over due by decades, first time in the shop. In the past I always worked out in the elements. Loaded it on the trailer this time and brought it inside, the biggest issue was the fuel tank. It leaked and had so much rust it would not keep running. Pulled the tank cleaned it repaired leaks and used one of the kits to seal the steal. I put points in I always have to file them in the spring, first set of points failed taking them out of the box. The plating came off. The old case is out running now back to the Buick. I painted the bottom this weekend and it looks like I have a handle on the body color. Next weekend I plan on painting the firewall and windshield frame. I have never painted before, I just read the Tech sheets and follow the instructions. Steve 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 I have been thinking about the installation of the body on my frame. The service manual gives me a center point on the frame. I am looking for the center of the body, I have not seen anything in the body and frame manuals showing a center point for the body. I had planned to use a tape measure and measure left to right and front to back, on body to frame when setting it on. The more I think about it, the center of the body is the way to go. I will start measuring and try to come up with a centerline. I can only imagine if the body is installed on the frame incorrectly how hard it will be to install the front clip and have anything like fenders and bumpers fit correctly. I wonder how the factory installed the body and squared it up back in the day going down the assembly line. Any advice will be welcome Thanks in advance. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 There typically are centering holes that go through the frame and into the body, so they assembly worker can insert a "pin" through the frame and into the receiving hole of the body as it comes down.. These are usually found in a body floor brace or similar spot. Does that make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted March 23, 2022 Author Share Posted March 23, 2022 Thanks for the advice l did see the holes that help guide the body in place. I painted the firewall was not happy with the finished product. Started over did it again had a few areas that needed fixed the second time. Repairs made on a few small areas, ready to go. I am not a painter but it passed muster from my boss. Her father worked in the body and paint trade his whole life. He also worked on cars at home after working in a body shop all day, she’s seen many a paint job come out of a home garage. I drove the chassis one last time, then backed it in for the body installation. I set the body on the frame last weekend still need to square it up add a shim here and there snug it down. Then test fit the doors, l am curious to see if anything still fit’s. Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted May 11, 2022 Author Share Posted May 11, 2022 After cutting welding building and a few bandaids and adding and subtracting a shim between the Frame and body the driver door fits. Now to get the R/H door on Steve 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 Back on the convertible, installed the trunk lid fit is looking good still needs adjustment. Installed rear fenders and then bolted on the front fenders. loaded car up checking in with a few body shops in the area. I just don't have the skill needed on the fender repairs. Plan is have them repair fenders while I keep working other segments of the car. Will see if anyone has the time and want to do this. Nothing adjusted on the fenders or doors just on the car for transport. Will cut the drivers seat back rest down. Seat is out of a RM hardtop original seat is rusted and not on the best of shape. Steve 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted July 16, 2022 Share Posted July 16, 2022 Awesome keep at it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted August 14, 2022 Author Share Posted August 14, 2022 Looking for the grommet that the lines pass through in the floor passenger side. Looked at Steele catalog nothing listed. Also what has everyone been using as a gasket or seal for the defrost blower inlet that mounts to the outer side of the firewall. I am thinking of using a thin double sided tape as a seal. Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 On 8/14/2022 at 7:43 PM, 195354 said: what has everyone been using as a gasket or seal for the defrost blower inlet that mounts to the outer side of the firewall If I understand the location correctly I recommend getting Rope Caulk from your local hardware store. That is a caulk sold for window glass seal and it very closely mimicked the original seal on my 56's heater core box. It is pliable, soft, forms into any shape when tightened, and holds up to heat while providing an airtight seal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted August 17, 2022 Author Share Posted August 17, 2022 John Thanks for the information, will look for this next time l am at the building materials store. This something l would not have thought of trying. Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted August 17, 2022 Share Posted August 17, 2022 Strip caulk at parts stores. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted August 20, 2022 Author Share Posted August 20, 2022 Very fortunate to have a metal dipping business in town cars and parts come from several states away. Dropped fenders front and rear today and a few small parts. l should have them back in about a week then panel repair can start. Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 6, 2022 Author Share Posted September 6, 2022 Picked up fenders front and rear from the dipping shop. Paint and rust removed, and body filler. Dropped them at body shop for repairs. They said they are in better shape after dipping than expected. Turned out better than everyone thought, the right quarter panel is in the worst shape. Will need new metal on a fair amount. I used my 57 pickup to haul the parts. daily driver was full of other debris from home. Steve 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted August 18, 2023 Author Share Posted August 18, 2023 Now that the 53 hardtop is reliable time to move back to the ragtop. The body shop have repaired the front and rear fenders. Left rear quarter was the biggest challenge lower 3’ or so was rusted and gone. These are now ready to fit on the car. The doors are the next rust repair job. The body shop didn’t want the car until the panels are ready to hang. They will get the car then work on gaps and finish out panels. l still have time to do few items before the car goes to the shop. This car was in boxes when purchased, l spend more time hunting for parts then assembly. hydraulic motor and diversion valve are back from repair and ready to install. Found the torque bracket after digging in boxes. It fits over the top of the motor and captures the motor. The other two mounts that hold the motor should have been on the firewall when l painted the firewall. I will paint them and install. The torque bracket looks to be black. This is one reason l have the 53 RM great reference while assembling the 53 ragtop. Steve 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted August 31, 2023 Author Share Posted August 31, 2023 Painted pump mounting and hardware body color last weekend. Will install the pump this weekend after l round up lock washers and nuts for the rubber mounts. I should be able to start running the lines for power seat the convertible top and windows after that. Steve 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 woww great work ! , This Buick is going to be magnificent ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 2, 2023 Author Share Posted September 2, 2023 Thought I would post a few pictures showing the mounts for the motivator on the firewall. This might help someone in the future. I thought the orientation would be easy to figure out. After a few failed attempts I checked out the RM with the pump. The joys of purchasing a disassembled car. The top arm that bolt to the motor after cleaning is not black. Stainless steel Eastwood paint is very close. I will touch up a few bolts that hold the mounts with paint next time I have paint mixed. The ground strap on the RM attached to the top bolt on the upper mount like the one in the picture. Time to start plugging holes in the firewall and running lines. Steve 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 4, 2023 Author Share Posted September 4, 2023 Started laying out the hydraulic system today this car has a fluid supper Highway under the carpet. I printed out my pictures as a guide. l had so much rust some references points were missing. The 53 manual just talks about pump pressures and testing. I have a 52 manual it has the needed information hopefully it’s the same in 53. l can’t imagine GM redesigning the diversion valve for 12 volt. I will get the lines to lay in the needed areas so the carpet fits and the seat track fits as it should. Steve 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 6, 2023 Author Share Posted September 6, 2023 Few clips ready for lines and wires still digging for a few more line hold downs. Lines are in the diversion valve fitment on this end was good. Need to add body sealer to the valve and screw it in place now. The lines behind the heater will a bit of bending so they fit correctly and the line on the firewall on the driver side will need bent around. I have one line that forms an S and have yet to locate a home for this line. I have the old rubber lines out they are being made. Once I have these lines I hope to wrap this part of the project up. I will not be able to go any further until the seat and window regulators are installed, and the top frame. Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 Wow - how many rolls of tubing so far...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireballV8 Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 Hi Steve The project is looking great. Where did you buy the steel lines? Also is it possible to have your supplier make a second set of the rubber hoses? I would buy another set from you or them for my 53. Thank You Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 7, 2023 Author Share Posted September 7, 2023 Lines are from inline tube they are SS lines. Inline has a sale now and then usually 25% discount. That’s when l purchase items like this. l used inline SS lines on the 53 RM last winter fit like they should. Some of the bends would be tough to do without a kink in the line. The rubber lines end up being a brake line set up. Trying to do this another way ends up using too many fittings and the line grows in length then flexibility and fitment suffers. ‘Steve l hope to be at the hose house this week if not early next week. I am still gathering samples if you have samples you can you confirm a few things for me. Two hoses for the quarter windows and two for the door windows looks like these are the same right or left side. I don’t have a sample for the power seat, my plan was do this after project is further along. If you have this hose l would like a picture and measurements. l should be able to complete a hose from that. I fixed the power seat on my RM lt works fine but l would like to know what father Buick used. Last three hoses are on the pump. I have not confirmed the length on these yet. You can see in one picture what the hoses will look like not exactly what they had when new but close. Once mine are built l can give you a cost and l will have them built up here in good old Oregon for you if it’s something that will fit your needs. Steve 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireballV8 Posted September 7, 2023 Share Posted September 7, 2023 Hi Steve sounds good. I’ll get all of the measurements. I still have all the original hoses. I looked at in line and they don’t list the line set anymore. I needed the two short pieces between the firewall and the door feed hose. Do you want me to check here with a hydraulic hose place to see if the hoses they could make would look more original? Thanks Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 7, 2023 Author Share Posted September 7, 2023 I ended up calling in-line they didn’t have these listed anywhere. If needed l can send part numbers but a call to inline has worked for me. Some of the lines on the engine are not listed either. Check with your supplier on the hose’s. l would like to know if they have a better options Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted September 10, 2023 Share Posted September 10, 2023 Great project, you must have the patience and persistence of a saint. That will be a gorgeous car when completed. I will follow this to completion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireballV8 Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 On 9/6/2023 at 9:12 PM, 195354 said: I ended up calling in-line they didn’t have these listed anywhere. If needed l can send part numbers but a call to inline has worked for me. Some of the lines on the engine are not listed either. Check with your supplier on the hose’s. l would like to know if they have a better options Steve Hi Steve Thanks for doing so, I needed the two little pieces from the firewall to the inside connection and I called them and they didn't have it listed either. I bought my set a few years back, so when I saw yours I figured they were back on their list. The two pieces in the set did not fit my car very well, so I wanted another pair to re bend to install in the car. I have my old lines for the motor out and ready and will check with the local supplier and let you know what I find out. Did you rebuild the valve under the rear seat and the pump motor yourself or did you send those out? Thanks Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 14, 2023 Author Share Posted September 14, 2023 I sent the pump and valve to Hydro-E-lectric in Florida. The bottom of the valve in many cases is rusted out mine was. They have this part if needed my valve came back looking good. The pump was also repaired. I thought of doing this but after talking with the vendor decided to send it out. We also discused the cylinders mine are trash. They recommended purchasing them when I am ready to test the system out. An outside vendor builds them with a one year warranty I believe. This way if I have an issue with one it is under warranty. They must know how slow I work on this car. I would like to hear what you come up with from your hose supplier as far as options. I have one hose that is installed not supper happy with the fit and the ID of the hose. The supplier I am working with keeps thinking brake line is the best and possibly the only option for this size of line. Brake line fittings are .103 ID the OEM fittings are .1720 I am thinking about flow. They are still looking at options. I will update you if they find something that will work. Save your 90 degree fittings for the lines. I wanted to replace mine and nothing in this size in the store or that they can order. They dug into the catalogs even. A tee fitting with a plug is the best option they had, I cleaned up my 90 degree fittings and added a crush washer used these in the past on fittings it does help reduce leaks on old fittings. The one Picture is a parts car. I believe the only 90 that can be seen once the car is assambled is on the left side. I added a view of the crush washer for reference. Steve tell me about the clips on the firewall that hold the line in place and the retainers on the firewall for the wiring harness. What color are yours and how are you treating them before assembly. I tried paint here is a picture. I have been told the clips are black or cad plated, the clip for the wiring I am not sure. Thanks for the help on this phase of the project. Steve 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootey Posted September 14, 2023 Share Posted September 14, 2023 (edited) Will In-line sell me a single piece of brake tubing for my 1941 Special rather than the entire set? I need the short piece running from the master cylinder to the distributor fitting. And I need it Pre-bent. What is their website and phone number? (I just looked at their website and they have nothing for a 1941 Special whereas they have much for 1953 convertibles) Thanks. Thomas Edited September 14, 2023 by Shootey (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted October 9, 2023 Author Share Posted October 9, 2023 Tom Give inline a call I have found a few items this way for my 53 not everything is listed on line. Spent sometime at the hose vendors and looks like we were off track using brake line. I am now using a #4 SAE 90 degree fitting on the pump, hose has push lock fittings. These are the fittings that typically have a yellow stop ring. I had these removed and a crimp added rather than a hose clamp the pressure is low enough that a hose clamp would work. I wanted the crimp because it looks better and if a hose clamp ever did come loose it would not be fun with oil running out the door or on the carpet. The line is very flexible and will perform great in the door hinge area. The flow rate will be the same as OEM hose just a small reduction on the 90 degree fittings the SAE fittings are about .015 reduced from OEM a drill could fix this but I can wait that long for the top to operate. Steve 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted October 10, 2023 Share Posted October 10, 2023 Very good work !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted December 4, 2023 Author Share Posted December 4, 2023 Working on wiper parts this weekend. The wiper shafts are free and work OK will clean them up and hit them with paint. They look to have a GM clutch bolt holding the back cover on the pivots. Is it worth tracking down a socket and pulling them apart and cleaning the parts and adding lube. I have never had anything like this apart. Any advice will be appreciated. The wiper motor mount had a rubber bushing at the body to mount area is this just a body seal. I am thinking of using a small O ring in its place. It also looked like the Mount had no gasket just body sealer and bolted on. Any thoughts on a gasket. I have not seen a gasket or seal for this in my search. Wiper motor is worn out go figure. Are the Exchange units working out or is someone repairing the mighty vacuum motors. Thanks Steve 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted December 4, 2023 Share Posted December 4, 2023 9 hours ago, 195354 said: Is it worth tracking down a socket and pulling them apart and cleaning the parts and adding lube. I would probably try soaking the shaft/bushing in ATF to get some lubricant in there. If the shafts turn smoothly I wouldn't bother trying to disassemble them any further. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted December 4, 2023 Share Posted December 4, 2023 Hi Steve. I am not sure which locations you are talking about for bushings or seals. If you mean seals around the wipertower and washer fluid towers I would say use that rope window caulk product. I would also use that on the wiper transmission unit that goes under the wiper motor. Where ever it goes thru the cowl. That rope caulk is versitile and plyable and holds up to the elements very well. Weather this car may likely see very little of. I also would not take the wiper tower apart. But I would consider some lubrication like 10 w oil. I would now want anything too heavy in the tower housing. Of course, this is all just my opinion. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 John I used rope caulk it works great easy to apply. Wiper Transmission soaked in ATF and they work as good as new thanks Em Tee . Once I clean them up I can install them. I have new gaskets for the wiper transmission Steele Part # 70-1604-53. Working on the rear quaters inner splash panels. Taking them out to dip tomorrow they are covered in under coating and road tar. I removed the fender welt on the sides Buick factory used staples to hold this on. I am looking for the rubber seal. Steele has a running board- gravel shield that looks very close. Restoration specialties has a seal that looks like a better fit but dimensions on the restoration specialty part. I will send them a message and see if they can provide the information. I will try and figure a way to install a staple once I have the seal. I have seen a few cars that the rubber seal is just left off the inner splash panels. I hope to have mine with the seal installed. Steve the picture is from Steele I cannot down load Restoration's image. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireballV8 Posted December 27, 2023 Share Posted December 27, 2023 Hi Steve I replied to your PM. I use galvanized wire and make the staples individually to match the holes on the steel panel. Let me know if you have questions about the seals and their placement once you check my PM to you. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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