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1953 Convertible project


195354

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I have the Chevrolet transmission repaired and installed. Test drove it Saturday on a 60 mile trip working great.

Back to my Buick projects The 53 RM coolant hose routing is pictured for the transmission it runs though a cutout in the frame and then lays on the push rod for the power brakes. I added pictures how I ran  the hoses on my convertible chassis. It looks much cleaner going through the cutout in the frame, I would think having the hoses on the brake push rod is an issue. If anyone has a few pictures or how the hoses should lay out let me know. 

 

I have added pictures of the starter splash shield form the RM. I have one for the convertible after hunting for it not easy to locate. It is hard for me to image this is still on the car after all these years.  I have not seen many with this still in place. 

 

I have owned some oil leaking cars in the day but this one might be the winner oil runs out of the P/S pump and the left valve cover has oil pouring out of it. Easy enough to repair I hope. 

 

Steve 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I hope I have added the video correctly today. 

I test drove my chassis around the house earlier this summer. I ran out of gas just as it ran up to my garage on this run. After purchasing this car in a pile of parts many of them MIA it was a good to have the project this far along. Power brakes worked well, steering worked like I thought it should few small items to clamp in place; then sort out the vacuum for the auto choke. I will then be ready to bolt on the body and see if anything still fits. 

Steve 

 

 

https://youtu.be/QnNJ2m0BB2s

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thought I would post a few pictures showing progress, I did the primer a few months back just getting to the pictures. I should have started with a rust free car. 

I have struggled with the formula for  correct white getting close now.  Few pictures from start to now getting close to installing body. 

Steve 

 

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  • 5 months later...

Back on the mighty Buick until another issue or project sidelines me. 

I did get sidetracked a bit on other projects around the place.  One is I needed to work on an old crawler I have for the place. Tuned it up and serviced it was way over due by decades, first time in the shop. In the past I always worked out in the elements. Loaded it on the trailer this time and brought it inside, the biggest issue was the fuel tank. It leaked and had so much rust it would not keep running. Pulled the tank cleaned it repaired leaks and used one of the kits to seal the steal. I put points in I always have to file  them in the spring, first set of points failed taking them out of the box. The plating came off.  The old case is out running now back to the Buick. I painted the bottom this weekend and it looks like I have  a handle on the body color. Next weekend I plan on painting the firewall and windshield frame. I have never painted before, I just read the Tech sheets and follow the instructions. 

Steve 

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I have been thinking about the installation of the body on my frame. The service manual gives me a center point on the frame. I am looking for the center of the body, I have not seen anything in the body and frame manuals showing a center point for the body. I had planned to use a tape measure and  measure left to right and front to back, on  body to frame when setting it on. The more I think about it, the center of the body is the way to go. I will start measuring and try to come up with a centerline.  I can only imagine if the body is installed  on the frame incorrectly how hard it will be to install the front clip and have anything like fenders and bumpers fit correctly. 

I wonder  how the factory installed the body and squared it up back in the day going down the assembly line. Any advice will be welcome 

Thanks in advance. 

Steve 

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There typically are centering holes that go through the frame and into the body, so they assembly worker can insert a "pin" through the frame and into the receiving hole of the body as it comes down..  These are usually found in a body floor brace or similar spot.  Does that make sense?

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for the advice l did see the holes that help guide the body in place. 
I painted the firewall was not happy with the finished product. Started over did it again had a few areas that needed fixed the second time. Repairs made on a few small areas, ready to go.
I am not a painter but it passed muster from my boss. Her father worked in the body and paint trade his whole life. He also worked on cars at home after working in a body shop all day, she’s seen many a paint job come out of a home garage.

I drove the chassis one last time, then backed it in for the body installation.

I set the body on the frame last weekend still need to square it up add a shim here and there snug it down. Then test fit the doors, l am curious to see if anything still fit’s.

Steve

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Back on the convertible, installed the trunk lid  fit is looking good still needs adjustment. Installed rear fenders and then bolted on the front fenders. loaded car up checking in with a few body shops in the area. I just don't have the skill needed on the fender repairs. Plan is have them repair fenders while I keep working  other segments of the car. Will see if anyone has the time and want to do this. Nothing adjusted on the fenders or doors just on the car for transport. Will  cut the drivers seat back rest down. Seat is out of a RM hardtop original seat is rusted and not on the best of shape. 

Steve 

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Looking for the grommet that the lines pass through in the floor passenger side. Looked at Steele catalog nothing listed. 

Also what has everyone been using as a gasket or seal for the defrost blower inlet  that mounts to the outer side of the firewall. I am thinking of using a thin double sided tape as a seal. 

Steve 

 

 

 

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On 8/14/2022 at 7:43 PM, 195354 said:

what has everyone been using as a gasket or seal for the defrost blower inlet  that mounts to the outer side of the firewall

If I understand the location correctly I recommend getting Rope Caulk from your local hardware store. That is a caulk sold for window glass seal and it very closely mimicked the original seal on my 56's heater core box. It is pliable, soft, forms into any shape when tightened, and holds up to heat while providing an airtight seal. 

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Very fortunate to have a metal dipping business in town cars and parts come from several states away. Dropped fenders front and rear today and a few small parts.

l should have them back in about a week then panel repair can start. 

Steve

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Picked up fenders front and rear from the dipping shop. Paint and rust  removed, and body filler. Dropped them at body shop for repairs. They said they are in better shape after dipping than expected.  Turned out better than everyone thought, the right quarter panel  is in the worst shape. Will need new metal on a fair amount. I used my 57 pickup to haul the parts. daily driver was full of other debris from home.  

Steve 

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  • 11 months later...

Now that the 53 hardtop is reliable time to move back to the ragtop. The body shop have repaired the front and rear fenders. Left rear quarter was the biggest challenge lower 3’ or so was rusted and gone. These are now ready to fit on the car.  The doors are the next rust repair job. The body shop didn’t want the car until the panels are ready to hang. They will get the car then work on gaps and finish out panels.
l still have time to do few items before the car goes to the shop. This car was in boxes when purchased, l spend more time hunting for parts then assembly.

hydraulic motor and diversion valve are back from repair and ready to install. Found the torque bracket after digging in boxes. It fits over the top of the motor and captures the motor. The other two mounts that hold the motor should have been on the firewall when l painted the firewall. I will paint them and install. The torque bracket looks to be black.

This is one reason l have the 53 RM great reference while assembling the 53 ragtop.

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Painted pump mounting and hardware body color last weekend. Will install the pump this weekend after l round up lock washers and nuts for the rubber mounts.  I should be able to start running the lines for power seat the convertible top and windows after that.  
Steve

 

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Thought I would post a few pictures showing the mounts for the motivator on the firewall. This might help someone in the future. 

I thought the orientation would be easy to figure out. After a few failed attempts I checked out the RM with the pump.  The joys of purchasing a disassembled car.  The top arm that bolt to the motor after cleaning is not black. Stainless steel Eastwood paint is very close. I will touch up a few bolts that hold the mounts with paint next time I have paint mixed. The ground strap on the RM attached to the top bolt on the upper mount like the one in the picture. Time to start plugging holes in the firewall and running lines. 

Steve 

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Started laying out the hydraulic system today this car has a fluid supper Highway under the carpet. I printed out my pictures as a guide. l had so much rust some references points were missing. The 53 manual just talks about pump pressures and testing. I have a 52 manual it has the needed information hopefully it’s the same in 53. l can’t imagine GM redesigning the diversion valve for 12 volt.

 I will get the lines to lay in the needed areas so the carpet fits and the seat track fits as it should. 
Steve
 

 

 

 

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Few clips ready for lines and wires still digging for a few more line hold downs. Lines are in the diversion valve fitment on this end was good. Need to add body sealer to the valve and screw it in place now. The lines behind the heater will a bit of bending so they fit correctly and the line on the firewall on the driver side will need bent around. I have one line that forms an S and have yet to locate a home for this line. I have the old rubber lines out they are being made. Once I have these lines I hope to wrap this part of the project up. I will not be able to go any further until the seat and window regulators are installed, and the top frame.  

Steve 

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Lines are from inline tube they are  SS lines. Inline has a  sale now and then usually 25% discount.  That’s when l purchase items like this. l used inline SS lines on the 53 RM last winter fit like they should. Some of the bends would be tough to do without a kink in the line. The rubber lines end up being a brake line set up. Trying to do this another way ends up using too many fittings and the line grows in length then flexibility and fitment suffers. 
‘Steve l hope to be at the hose house this week if not early next week. I am still gathering samples if you have samples you can you confirm a few things for me. Two hoses for the quarter windows and two for the door windows looks like these are the same right or left side. I don’t have a sample for the power seat, my plan was  do this after project is further along. If you have this hose l would like a picture and measurements. l should be able to complete a hose from that. I fixed the power seat on my RM lt works fine but l would like to know what father Buick used.  Last three hoses are on the pump. I have not confirmed the length on these yet. You can see in one picture what the hoses will look like not exactly what they had when new but close. Once mine are built l can give you a cost and l will have them built up here in good old Oregon for you if it’s something that will fit your needs.

Steve

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Hi Steve

sounds good. I’ll get all of the measurements. I still have all the original hoses. 
I looked at in line and they don’t list the line set anymore. I needed the two short pieces between the firewall and the door feed hose.

Do you want me to check here with a hydraulic hose place to see if the hoses they could make would look more original?

Thanks

Steve

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I ended up calling in-line they didn’t have these listed anywhere. If needed l can send part numbers but a call to inline has worked for me. Some of the lines on the engine are not listed either.

Check with your supplier on the hose’s. l would like to know if they have a better options 

Steve 

 

 

 

 

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On 9/6/2023 at 9:12 PM, 195354 said:

I ended up calling in-line they didn’t have these listed anywhere. If needed l can send part numbers but a call to inline has worked for me. Some of the lines on the engine are not listed either.

Check with your supplier on the hose’s. l would like to know if they have a better options 

Steve 

 

 

 

 

Hi Steve

Thanks for doing so, I needed the two little pieces from the firewall to the inside connection and I called them and they didn't have it listed either. I bought my set a few years back, so when I saw yours I figured they were back on their list. The two pieces in the set did not fit my car very well, so I wanted another pair to re bend to install in the car. 

 

I have my old lines for the motor out and ready and will check with the local supplier and let you know what I find out. Did you rebuild the valve under the rear seat and the pump motor yourself or did you send those out?

 

Thanks

Steve

 

 

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I sent the pump and valve to Hydro-E-lectric in Florida. The bottom of the valve in many cases is rusted out mine was. They have this part if needed my valve came back looking good. The pump was also repaired. I thought of doing this but after talking with the vendor decided to send it out. We also discused  the cylinders mine are trash. They recommended purchasing them when I am ready to test the system out. An outside vendor builds them  with a one year warranty I believe. This way if I have an issue with one it is under warranty. They must know how slow I work on this car. 

 

I would like to hear what you come up with from your hose supplier as far as options. I have one hose that is installed not supper happy with the fit and the ID of the hose.  The supplier I am working with keeps thinking brake line is the best and possibly the only option for this size of line. Brake line fittings are .103 ID the OEM fittings are .1720 I am thinking about flow. They are still looking at options.  I will update you if they find something that will work. Save your 90 degree fittings for the lines.  I wanted to replace mine and nothing in this size in the store or that they can order. They dug into the catalogs even. A tee fitting with a plug is the best option they had, I cleaned up my 90 degree fittings and added a crush washer used these in the past on fittings it does help reduce leaks on old fittings. The one Picture is a parts car. I believe the only 90 that can be seen once the car is assambled is on the left side. I added a view of the crush washer for reference.

Steve tell me about the  clips on the firewall that hold the line in place and the retainers on the firewall for the wiring harness. What color are yours  and how are you treating them before assembly. I tried paint here is a picture. I have been told the clips are black or cad plated, the clip for the wiring I am not sure.

Thanks for the help on this phase of the project.

 

Steve  

 

 

 

 

 

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Will In-line sell me a single piece of brake tubing for my 1941 Special rather than the entire set?  I need the short piece running from the master cylinder to the distributor fitting. And I need it Pre-bent. What is their website and phone number?  (I just looked at their website and they have nothing for a 1941 Special whereas they have much for 1953 convertibles) Thanks. Thomas

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  • 4 weeks later...

Tom 

Give inline a call I have found a few items this way for my 53 not everything is listed on line. 

 

Spent sometime at the hose vendors and looks like we were off track using brake line. I am now using a #4 SAE 90 degree fitting on the pump, hose has push lock fittings. These are the fittings that typically have a yellow stop ring. I had these removed and a crimp added rather than a hose clamp the pressure is low enough that a hose clamp would work.

I wanted the crimp because it looks better and if a hose clamp ever did come loose it would not be fun with oil running out the door or on the carpet. The line is very flexible and will perform great in the door hinge area. The flow rate will be the same as OEM hose just a small reduction on the  90 degree fittings the SAE fittings are about .015 reduced from OEM a drill could fix this but I can wait that long for the top to operate. 

Steve 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Working on wiper parts this weekend.

The wiper shafts are free and work OK will clean them up and hit them with paint. They look to have a GM clutch bolt holding the back cover on the pivots. Is it worth tracking down a socket and pulling them apart and cleaning the parts and adding lube. I have never had anything like this apart. Any advice will be appreciated.

 The wiper motor mount had a rubber bushing at the body to mount area is this just a body seal. I am thinking of using a small O ring in its place.  It also looked like the Mount had no gasket just body sealer and bolted on. Any thoughts on a gasket.

I have not seen a gasket or seal for this in my search. 

Wiper motor is worn out go figure. Are the Exchange units working out or is someone repairing the mighty vacuum motors. 

 

Thanks 

Steve 

 

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, 195354 said:

Is it worth tracking down a socket and pulling them apart and cleaning the parts and adding lube.

I would probably try soaking the shaft/bushing in ATF to get some lubricant in there.  If the shafts turn smoothly I wouldn't bother trying to disassemble them any further.

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Hi Steve. I am not sure which locations you are talking about for bushings or seals.  If you mean seals around the wipertower and washer fluid towers I would say use that rope window caulk product. I would also use that on the wiper transmission unit that goes under the wiper motor. Where ever it goes thru the cowl. That rope caulk is versitile and plyable and holds up to the elements very well. Weather this car may likely see very little of.  

I also would not take the wiper tower apart. But I would consider some lubrication like 10 w oil. I would now want anything too heavy in the tower housing. 

Of course, this is all just my opinion.

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