195354 Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 John I used rope caulk it works great easy to apply. Wiper Transmission soaked in ATF and they work as good as new thanks Em Tee . Once I clean them up I can install them. I have new gaskets for the wiper transmission Steele Part # 70-1604-53. Working on the rear quaters inner splash panels. Taking them out to dip tomorrow they are covered in under coating and road tar. I removed the fender welt on the sides Buick factory used staples to hold this on. I am looking for the rubber seal. Steele has a running board- gravel shield that looks very close. Restoration specialties has a seal that looks like a better fit but dimensions on the restoration specialty part. I will send them a message and see if they can provide the information. I will try and figure a way to install a staple once I have the seal. I have seen a few cars that the rubber seal is just left off the inner splash panels. I hope to have mine with the seal installed. Steve the picture is from Steele I cannot down load Restoration's image. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireballV8 Posted December 27, 2023 Share Posted December 27, 2023 Hi Steve I replied to your PM. I use galvanized wire and make the staples individually to match the holes on the steel panel. Let me know if you have questions about the seals and their placement once you check my PM to you. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 Woking on the project and I have been ignoring a leak from the Dynaflow. I have moved the car a few times over the last few months and it has refused to idle. I also had a very small leak at one of the well plugs in the carburetor it was leaving a stain on the intake. I covered them with JB weld this fixed this issue. Turned out the metering rod plunger had stuck in the bore. Cleaned this up reassembled the carburetor and it will now run and idle. The leak on the transmission is a bolt & stud on the pump cover one is a stud on one side the other side is a bolt. Looks like the acucumulator mounting could also be leaking at the bolts. Are these blind holes if not pull studs and bolts clean everything and seal the fasteners? Unit works fine other than the leak. Thanks Steve 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted January 12 Author Share Posted January 12 I am digging in my boxes and have not found what was used. Sure it is here someplace. One more joy when you bring home a car in a box. So I am trying to come up with a grommet for the floor. The location is passenger side it is the pass through for the hydraulic lines for the power accessories. Been on the phone with Steele and a few other vendor’s no luck so far. It also has a small plate that helps hold things in place. I would think it is the same part for 53 back with power accessories. 1-1/4” square opening Does anyone have a picture showing the seal- grommet, or what they used in this area. Thanks Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tompett Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 (edited) Here is my old one, will try do find another picture where you can see the shape of the metall bracket holding the rubber seal TomP Edited February 3 by tompett (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 Tom thanks for the picture, I just received a part that should work. This is for a Caddy according to Steele Rubber, also one hole is smaller Than the other on the new part. I find this odd each line is the same size. It looks like your sample has the same size hole in each opening. I hope to try this pass through grommet out Sunday I will let everyone know. Steele makes two of these grommets one with two holes this what you need with power windows and power top. Then one with just one hole this will fit a hardtop with power seat or windows. Steve 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 On 12/17/2023 at 11:30 PM, 195354 said: I slit a length of 5/8 heater hose and forced it over the edge. When the splash shield is installed the hose is kept into place by interference from the inner fender. If I didn't have that interference fit, I might have used the ss wire to sew a section or two into place. No pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 Ken thanks for the info about using hose. I did work with Steele and it sounds like they have what I needed for the splash panel. I had them send a catalog. I located the seal in my picture. The grommet for the Caddy works still needs the plate added and some sealer. I find it hard to navigate a few websites to try and locate some of the obscure items. Like the grommet for the hydraulic lines I should have asked for a Cadilliac catalog long ago. I had to make the hold downs for the lines and bed twist the lies but at last they are on the run the back seat area should be easy. Here are a few pictures I will add before pictures. Steve 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Wow, I thought my floorpans were bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Wow, unlike your project, I have almost nothing to fix on my Buick. I’m really excited about your work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 Some progress on the Convertible this weekend. Hydraulic tubing for the seat windows and top is tight and secured on the floor. Sound mat installed in heater area and the heater is installed. Started on modifying the seat back’s they need lower 3” my rust free seat is from a hardtop. I added a picture showing the factory cut on the original seat from back in the day when the seat was lowered. The original seat is a bit rusty not even good scrap. I will post a few pictures of the seat for now. Once I m further along I will add a few more. The Dynaflow is back in after repairing the leak at the front. This project is never ending but I see some progress Good thing I see this as therapy. Steve 5 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Those lines look so good its a shame to put a seat over them. 🤔😁😁 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 The seat Bottom is in the car so I can move it around and confirm the seat back is correct. The R/H back is 3” higher Than it will be when finished. The driver side is cut down now I will shorten the spring assembly at the bottom this way the top will remain for upholstery. Once the seats are stripped and cleaned up the next project will be the top mechanism. I keep looking at all the work needed for the top this will be a project in its self. Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 Good weather this weekend so I gave the Convertible a quick test Transmission installed a week or so back test drove around the driveway no leaks so far. The front of the transmission and accumulators had a pretty Nasty drip before. Now back to the seat project. Steve 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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