195354 Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 I have somehow deleted the project form the forum so I will start over with the story of my project. That must be why at work they say stay away from the computer. My project was so rusted most people would have said that it is a parts car. I am far enough along with the rust repair I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I will keep pressing on, I was lucky enough to find a four-door parts car with little or no rust. It had the drivetrain removed and some other parts pulled but the body was still intact it has provided many needed floor parts. I have floors cut out and replaced, Trunk floor cut out and replaced. I will post a few pictures before and after. I am working on the frame and chassis now, Engine assembled and test ran broken in on test stand, ready for install, once the Dynaflow is ready. Differential has been taken apart checked out and is ready for install. Brakes are at the reline shop now, found an old hand that does this just up the road he will arc the shoes to the drums when he is done, Brake booster is back and installed it should stop as it did back in the day. I have come to realize how important pictures are when working on a project. I use this site checking how others are dealing with their project; this helps me keep going forward. I also use my parts books cross checking part numbers and looking at the exploded view. I wish I had taken this car apart but I did not I found it lying all over the floor and on shelves and some parts missing, I must like a challenge. I want to thank everyone that has helped me get this far on my project Steve 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 I am working on the front end, kingpins and springs. The dust seals for the upper outer are a giving me trouble. The manual says pull them over the shock arm and pull the seal back over the pin when done. The seal looks like it will tear if I do this, if someone has a method that works on installing dust seals let me know. I have attached a few pictures. I suppose it is possible I have been sent incorrect seals. I also have my drums and brakes back, shoes relined and arching done that will match each drum. The last shop that I knew of that did this this type of work closed. One of guys that worked there for 40 plus years opened a small shop and now does custom work, best part is he is 30 minutes from my house Steve 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 Made progress on seals after a night’s sleep they went on with a little help moving the spindle up and down and a hook to get the seal over the pin, did this before the lower was installed. The lower pin and seals are very straight forward. I plan to add a little paint on the new parts and this side will ready for the backing plate and brakes. I have added few pictures of the seals and other parts. The brake reservoir is also pictured I have two with the mounting tabs and one that is missing the tabs, it will be in the junk soon. Does anyone have a color picture of this so I can try to match the color, and a paint or coating that will resist brake fluid? I also have a picture of the differential any color information on correct paint for 1953 diff would be a great help. Thanks Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Good evening Mr. 195354! Glad you are able to recreate your post. I lost mine, too and have been recreating a condensed version of it. I'm curious about the Diff color as well. I'm not familiar with the year of your car, but it looks like your torque tube unbolts from the differential. How convenient! Your progress is now being stalked by me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 19, 2018 Author Share Posted September 19, 2018 Ken I have been watching your 1940 project you are making progress and doing a great job, keep posting pictures as you go. When I see other folks, doing the impossible it fuels my engine. My project is going slow, I now figure about double or triple the time on any one item. Mine was pulled apart years ago before I purchased it so it is a slow go, hunt for parts, check parts books, and hope I have the correct part. I tell myself where is Waldo some days he is easy to find and some days not so much. Ken you put this in one of your posts I’ve met some terrific people in the BCA that have helped me along tremendously with parts and their knowledge. I have also meet great people at three national meets this group is very helpful and welcoming. Unfortunately, not many Buicks in my area so I need to travel for my Buick fix. Thanks to those that have helped me with my project, I would not be this far without it. Many of you have helped and do not know it; I look for pictures and ideas on how to do parts of my car in the forum. Steve 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 On 9/17/2018 at 11:26 PM, 195354 said: Does anyone have a color picture of this so I can try to match the color, and a paint or coating that will resist brake fluid? I also have a picture of the differential any color information on correct paint for 1953 diff would be a great help. Which part do you want the color of? If the brake reservoir, I believe it is aluminum and would have been unpainted from the factory. Yours look like there is some external corrosion but being aluminum they may clean up enough externally with some 400 wet dry sand paper, then some aluminum polish. BTW, I would not toss the one without the mounting tabs. In an emergency it could still be mounted by making a u shaped bracket to imitate the tab positions. No one will ever know if that was original, and it may be that the other reservoirs have enough damage that it goes through the tube to the interior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1953mack Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 On 9/17/2018 at 10:26 PM, 195354 said: . . . Does anyone have a color picture of this so I can try to match the color, and a paint or coating that will resist brake fluid? . . . Steve, The top-half of your brake fluid reservoir on the right gives you the best idea of the OEM factory finish. I call it an anodized aluminum olive green finish. Color is close to a G.I. Army Olive Drab. Apply sandpaper to the finish and watch it disappear in no time. Here's what mine looks like. Al Malachowski BCA #8965 "500 Miles West of Flint" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 Al thanks for the pictures of the brake fluid reservoir, I am working on a paint that is close on color and might hold up to brake fluid. I have also contacted a shop in town that does some anodizing also Zinc plating, they say they can get close on color will see. The Differential am I close on the color I have used? I have made a little more progress on my project. I try to do something on this project every day, clean and paint or locate parts for the next step. Front springs are installed Backing plates are going on and brake lines are on the run. Will be working on the rear axle soon Steve 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 Little more progress, I am now on the hunt for a transmission should have looked at mine earlier in the project it is a true basket case. I changed the rear bearing races. I also installed the drive line on the differinatal and slid the assembly in the chassis. Steve 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 Great progress on your project! It certainly looked daunting in your first picture. I do remember reading at least some of your lost thread about this car. Anyway, glad you were able to recreate the thread, as well as the car! Another one that is being saved is always good news to me. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted October 23, 2018 Author Share Posted October 23, 2018 I need a little advise on the rear wheel bearing lube. The manual just has WBL called out and check when relining brakes, is this the standard wheel bearing grease? I am thinking of trying a synthetic wheel bearing lube like Mobil Mobilith SHC 007 I have used this at work and it works great, wheel end maintenance does go down with this type of lube. With modern seals I would think it would work. Has anyone tried a synthetic lube on wheel ends? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 Any WBL will work and your choice will outlast you. FWIW I use vv985 valvoline front and rear with no problems. Most of our cars never had those bearings serviced after leaving the factory until there was a leak in that area. When inspected all evidence of grease was gone with just some differential oil and maybe diluted with tranny fluid. I have seen some where the inner seal was omitted and it depended (satisfactorily) on differential oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 I have my chassis moving around on tires for the first time in a few years big day for me. I am thinking the factory must have added some kind of marking on the differential cover when they added oil Does anyone know if the factory had a check mark? I am also wrapping up the brake lines, does anyone have pictures that would show the clamps that go on the brake lines these are the bolt on clamps around the brake booster to reservoir. I have holes for bolts in the frame the parts book only shows two clamps but it looks like a few more clamps are in order. The line that goes to the rear axle from the brake switch is the one I think needs some type of clamp. Thanks for the help Steve 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 Here are a few pictures of the vacuum check valve for the brake booster. After cleaning it out and testing it does not hold vacuum. I see a small impression were the rubber seal seats against the cover this is most likely the leak. Many years ago, I had parts that had a rubber seat repair vendor replaced the seats in parts for air brake valves, it was about this size. I will try the vendor but I doubt they still offer this service. . Has anyone had these apart and repaired them with any success, I could just put an inline check valve in one of the rubber hoses to resolve this if needed. Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 I have been working on the inner fenders, Right inner fender was in OK shape other than the front splash apron was in tough shape. I had a set of inner fenders from the car and a set from a parts car; I cut and welded a good set for the car. Left fender was good other than the rear splash apron was damaged in an accident back in the day and the front top was rusted and gone. I removed needed parts from the parts car fenders and spot-welded the parts on. I had to make modifications to one panel; the original has a removable panel. The parts car is at the end of production for 53. My car is early production as time marched on Buick must have made changes in these. Notice the notch in the splash pan at the front latter production does not have this; same with the removable panel, latter inner panels are one piece. They are test fitted on the chassis and ready for primer . Here are few pictures Happy new year! Steve 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Buicks Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 My god Steve, did you dip those fenders in something?......Sandblasting would never get anything that clean! wow! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 On 9/17/2018 at 10:26 PM, 195354 said: Made progress on seals after a night’s sleep they went on with a little help moving the spindle up and down and a hook to get the seal over the pin, did this before the lower was installed. The lower pin and seals are very straight forward. I plan to add a little paint on the new parts and this side will ready for the backing plate and brakes. I have added few pictures of the seals and other parts. The brake reservoir is also pictured I have two with the mounting tabs and one that is missing the tabs, it will be in the junk soon. Does anyone have a color picture of this so I can try to match the color, and a paint or coating that will resist brake fluid? I also have a picture of the differential any color information on correct paint for 1953 diff would be a great help. Thanks Steve Here my reservoir going in my 1953 Pontiac chieftain custom Catalina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted January 28, 2019 Author Share Posted January 28, 2019 Pontiac 1953 thanks for the picture of your Brake reservoir; did you use a paint product that will resist brake fluid? My reservoir is not done at the coating company here in town I am little concerned that it is taking this long. I have been working on the right rear inner fender, need to finish sand a few spots but it is close to done. The inside needs a weld in a few places and the rubber stop mount for the convertible top welded back on. I plan to add a few more spot welds and call it good; I test fit the panel through the process to keep everything in line. The left inner fender needs rust removal and repair also but it is not as bad as the right side. Steve 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 I have torque ball corrosion, the socket ball has corrosion to me it does not look like it is in the seal area. A torque ball retainer with the seal is on the way should arrive late this week. Then I will be able to confirm the area it runs on. If I fix this corrosion area, my thoughts are JB weld or similar product and smooth it out as needed. Has anyone run into this before, and come up with a fix? I have not looked in the manual yet it is not with me today does the torque ball have an orientation? I would think the oil hole in the bushing is at 6 o'clock Thanks in advance for the advice Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 Steve, if you are getting the outer torque ball retainer with the bonded rubber, it looks like it will ride in the smooth area. I have used JBWeld as a filler. Orientation: if it is like my 55's the the torque ball and torque tube bolt holes need to match (they go together only one way). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted May 27, 2019 Author Share Posted May 27, 2019 Willie Thanks for the response, the orientation is fool proof just like your 55 it only goes one way. The new torque ball seal is going to work it will ride in the smooth areas. I made some progress this weekend engine and transmission is in chassis at last. Here are a few photos Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted July 14, 2019 Author Share Posted July 14, 2019 I installed the engine and transmission and a few other items and decided to take my chassis to a local show about a month ago. Not many people get the opportunity to see a project at this point. Now that I have my brake reservoir, I will try to wrap up the chassis this summer. Who knows I might even drive it without the body and test it before all the sheet metal is in the way. Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 16 minutes ago, 195354 said: Who knows I might even drive it without the body and test it before all the sheet metal is in the way. Do it!😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 3, 2019 Author Share Posted September 3, 2019 Few of the summer projects around the house are wrapping up. I am getting ready for my fall and winter work in the shop. I have seen clamps on the lines on the engine on a few core engines. I have been looking and have yet to find a supplier see picture. If anyone knows of a supplier let me know. I am also working on the Exhaust hangers I have this hanger from a parts car and will most likely replace the belting and clean it up. The tail pipe hanger a few vendors have for sale is this a correct a hanger for a 53 V8 or is it a universal type hanger they sell? Thanks for any advice Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 I haven’t posted anything for a while thought I would update my slow progress. Rolling chassis is complete other than bleed brakes, and inner fenders, radiator, and hoses. I then hope to take short drive. I repaired a few more places on the inner fenders and painted them first time I have ever done paintwork. From what I can tell, the engine compartment should not be gloss paint. I have also went back at rust repair, trunk is now in place 100%. I am now going along and fixing all the other rust damage. It is closer than it was but still a ways before it is back on the frame. Steve 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Heaps Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 After reviewing your hard work, I'll not let anyone tell me that my 1952 45R series baby Buick isn't worth the effort. Very inspirational progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 Beautiful Work ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted February 22, 2020 Author Share Posted February 22, 2020 This project is my therapy after working. I am trying to keep moving steadily forward it is has more twist and turns then I expected. Learning paint is a new experience . Thanks for all the positive comments Stee 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted February 23, 2020 Author Share Posted February 23, 2020 The radiator strap has rusted where soldered to the upper tank. I had this repaired about a year ago; I am surprised to see this. Should I clean it up, use a rust encapsulator, and paint over this area? I now need to locate or source all the correct bolts and washers needed. I am trying to locate all the needed parts when I take a break doing rust repair. The paint I used on the inner fenders is not very tough. I can scratch it very easy. After I have the body ready and installed I might paint these with a different product. Part of the learning curve I guess. Steve 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted February 23, 2020 Share Posted February 23, 2020 1 hour ago, 195354 said: The radiator strap has rusted where soldered to the upper tank. Common problem from the acid a flux used. Try the rust encapsulator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 I am trying to position the tab that welds on the floor for the power seat. I never had a good way to make a pattern on this before I removed what was left of the floor. If anyone has a picture and a few measurements on the correct location, it would be a great help. I have looked at my parts book and what I have for the track and I do not see how the seat track works, I must be short on a few key parts. Once this tab is in place I am done with the lower rust repair. Then I have rust in a few other places that need repair it is all high window frame and trunk upper seal area. My seat track I am using for a pattern is not much good I have another one but it is in storage and buried Thanks Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Your diff color is pretty darn close. When I did my 1950 I believe I used Red Oxide primer as the paint. Nice Job on your project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 Chassis in this picture is ready for a test drive. My driveway is long enough to test operation and even leave black marks in the road. It is nice not having to push this around when it needs moved. Power brakes work as they should few leaks on the SS lines for DF they have been corrected. Once the weather changes paint the body under side and install on the chassis. Who knows this might be completed if I keep at it and the CFO Does not have too many things on her list for me to do. Steve 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted February 2, 2021 Author Share Posted February 2, 2021 Working on the battery cover and hold down. My parts book is lacking in this area, I believe the hold down bolt slips in a notch in the bottom battery tray. Then the hold down keeps the battery in place it has 4 cushions then you use a wing nut with a flat washer. I have a grommet that goes in the hold down I think but the grommet is larger than the factory hole. I have also seen a few pictures of a strap from the inner fender that attach at the hold down bolt is this one or a strap to each hold down. If anyone has a picture or two showing how this should be assembled it would be a great help. Thanks in advance Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Heaps Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 (edited) When you finish this project you will be an expert on ‘53 convertibles. I have found two more for you! A Special and a Roadmaster. The photos are in reverse order. These should be a cakewalk now that you have the experience!😅 And no, the grill bar is broken. Edited April 12, 2021 by Rusty Heaps (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP Posted April 14, 2021 Share Posted April 14, 2021 Steve: Late to the party on this one, but just saw your battery tray posting. Had a few photos on my phone somewhere, but cannot find them at the moment. Have this one of the top assembly (if it's of any help to you). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 Rusty heaps Thanks for finding my next projects little TLC and they will be road ready. I love soft tops and hate to see them waste away. JBP thanks for the photo it helps, when you bring a car home that is in boxes it is a slow process pictures confirm I am on track Steve 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Seem to be missing several shots from this sequence. Sorry, Steve, I may have deleted them. I really liked your 2019 post where you took your chassis to the car show. Reminded me of this photo with the new V8 on display for all the prospective buyers to admire... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted June 19, 2021 Author Share Posted June 19, 2021 The battery hold down is sorted out just need to change the wing nuts shorten and paint the hold down bolts. I added the heat tube and cover for the choke, I have very little vacuum at the tube so back in the carburetor I go. Someday I will install the correct oil fill breather when I address the details, I did add the clamps that hold the lines together along the valve cover. I also had another Buick follow me home, once I check it out I hope to use it for a daily driver this summer. First up is fix oil leaks it does leave its mark. Another project I am trying to wrap up is the transmission failed in my chevy the 3 speed had the idler shaft drop down and crunch and grind. Parts here next week hope it is running by next weekend. I also started painting my Project Buick, firewall now has color once the space allows I hope to add the red primer to the bottom and install the body. Here are few pictures I know I like to see what other folks are doing. My son is up front in the the Chevrolet grandmother is keeping tabs on the kids, we went for a drive in fact we added sugar before they went home good times. The Buick convertible will have room for more grand kids. Happy fathers day to all Steve 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted June 19, 2021 Share Posted June 19, 2021 9 hours ago, 195354 said: I have very little vacuum at the tube so back in the carburetor Looks like a WCFB carb... None of mine have much vacuum either. if no vacuum be sure you have the correct gasket between the bowl section and the throttle body section and that it is installed correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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