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Carolina Roadmasters: Collect all 4 - '38 Roadmaster Model 87


38Buick 80C

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9 hours ago, EmTee said:

"Over" (I hope I'm wrong...)

 

What are you going to do about the door panels and rear quarter panels?  Will SMS fabricate those?

 

SMS isn't fabricating anything. They are just sending fabric... my local upholstery shop will do the entire car. same guy that did my 80C.

 

I assumed OVER as well hence the order now...

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Some more progress, but ended early.

 

Installed the lifters and push rods

PXL_20230813_135516496.jpg.982733cabd363d1f0679fb3c2e553710.jpg

 

And then the rockers and put covers on just to make it look nice...and get them out of the way.

PXL_20230813_142253351.jpg.5dd0a87d72ed074080de4d980d44820b.jpg

 

Next installed the steering box/column and steering arms.

PXL_20230813_153624066.jpg.847b7d2313bf44dd3a386e88908027dc.jpg

 

Finally I installed the manifolds and the front exhaust pipe.PXL_20230813_175325937.jpg.0b58e4fecea2ec0e2293b08fd4bb5952.jpg

 

It was at this point I discovered a problem that after messing with it enough I ended the day.

 

The exhaust pipe was too far forward cause the entire system got pushed forward. I realized I needed to move the car forward a bit for the pipe to have enough room against the back wall... But nope car wouldn't move...like it's in gear. I ended up just jacking up the axle to move it forward and complete the pipe.

 

I tried installing the cover and getting the car in neutral but the shift lever won't move anything. Off came the cover... I'm not sure exactly what's going on but I think it's trans related and I think it's this gear.

PXL_20230813_182341507.ACTION_PAN-01.COVER2.jpg.a67bee471f5c10e6ea10ca0a3a9fb850.jpg

 

It should slide back and forth and it's not and I think it's the one hung.

 

I was able to rotate the motor before install cause that how I boletsnin the clutch

 

The rear axle free-wheels with wheels in the air.

 

That gear was sliding all over when I was installing the trans on the motor.

 

And yes I've banged on it with a fine adjustment hammer and tried to pry at it too gently. It move just a touch but I dare not give it the  full beans.

 

So anyone have some ideas to try? I'm sure I will figure it out but decided I was gonna break something if I kept going today.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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18 minutes ago, Edwin The Kid said:

Does the 2-3 shifter slider move free? In the picture it looks to be in gear, is it possible 2 gears are engaged at once preventing spinning? 

Nothing is moving freely.

 

So let's assume you are correct two gears are engaged at one... How do I unengage one of them?

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1 hour ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Nothing is moving freely.

 

So let's assume you are correct two gears are engaged at one... How do I unengage one of them?

My best guess would be to move both shifts rods back and forth, as well as rocking the car to try and find a spot where the gears aren't as bound and will move. 

It looks like both rods need to move rearward to be in neutral. 

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1 hour ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Nothing is moving freely.

I would suggest a bit of lubrication to all of the gears and rods and then try gently persuading them to move a bit back and forth.  

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6 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

I tried installing the cover and getting the car in neutral but the shift lever won't move anything. Off came the cover... I'm not sure exactly what's going on but I think it's trans related and I think it's this gear.

PXL_20230813_182341507.ACTION_PAN-01.COVER2.jpg.a67bee471f5c10e6ea10ca0a3a9fb850.jpg

 

It should slide back and forth and it's not and I think it's the one hung.

 

2 hours ago, Edwin The Kid said:

is it possible 2 gears are engaged at once preventing spinning? 

Maybe a little of both?

 

It appears to me that it is in 2 gears, or at least a gear and a half. Look at the notches for the detent balls and how they line up to the detent ball holes. If it were in neutral, the center notch would be under the detent ball hole in both cases. The lower rail looks far enough forward to be lined up with the rear notch. That would be in gear. The upper rail is also has it's center notch forward of the hole. It is at least halfway in gear, if not all the way in gear. Both rails need to be back with the center notch aligned under the detent ball hole.

 

Is the gear marked in red blocking motion? If so, something might be assembled wrong back there. The rail needs to go to the back from it's current position for sure. Could the gear be on upside down? I think that may be it.

 

 

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22 minutes ago, Bloo said:

Is the gear marked in red blocking motion? If so, something might be assembled wrong back there. The rail needs to go to the back from it's current position for sure. Could the gear be on upside down? I think that may be it.

 

I don't think so. From looking back at the photos of the 1938 Century transmission in my Model 61, the gears appear to be correct. I think it is just a matter of needing a bit of lubrication along with a bit of gentle tapping back and forth until it is free. 

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Is it right to have the one gear with the teeth facing the opposite direction of all the others?  I am refering to the one all the way on the left, towards the top of the picture.  Looks like it is down low in the case and the teeth look like they would clash with the gear outlined in red. 

 

 

PXL_20230813_182341507.ACTION_PAN-01.COVER2.jpg.a67bee471f5c10e6ea10ca0a3a9fb850.jpg

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John, that does look questionable. In my previous post, I was referring to the gear circled in red not being installed incorrectly. With the angle and lighting of my 1938 transmission photo, I can't see that gear lower in the case, so you could be right. I can't answer that question. 

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As noted previously I built 2 transmissions at the same time earlier.

 

I'm quite certain gears are in the correct places and orientations.

 

The red circled gear will not slide back and forth... that is the problem, it would seem. Oil I ordered from Amazon will be here soon and I will keep trying to free it.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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What (if anything) in that little 'pocket' circled in yellow?  It almost looks like two or three little steel balls...

 

image.png.a53fb86c2fc0f962215000f8a155a1f3.png

 

That's the same spot that collected pieces of the broken shift fork detent spring I found in my transmission.

 

image.jpeg.dcc0147b6eb704420a9c0a5941b8e84f.jpeg

 

For reference, here's a picture of the transmission internals in my '38 Century:

 

image.jpeg.2b5d1a1c27ab42946c039b3ae60320a0.jpeg

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2 hours ago, EmTee said:

What (if anything) in that little 'pocket' circled in yellow?  It almost looks like two or three little steel balls...

It's just the reflections playing tricks nothing in there. This trans was taken down to nothing and rebuilt by me. There are no foreign misc. pieces. 

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3 hours ago, Bloo said:

Maybe you could disconnect that fork from the rail in order to get the rail back into the neutral position?

 

I did try that but think I will try it again.

 

the rail moves freely when disconnected from the red circled gear.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Well you should be able to get in into neutral then I think? (check the top rail and get that on the middle notch). About that gear, does it feel seized on whatever it slides on? Or is it just not wanting to engage a gear?

 

It looks like it probably uses that big gear for both first and reverse. Is it partially engaged with another gear?

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, Bloo said:

I think it's literally a crap collector. All the loose parts you don't want to see go there.

Well, that's apparently one purpose.  :P

 

The other thing I noted when I had mine open is that there's a hole at the back end of that little pocket that seems to empty into the U-joint housing.  So, it appears to me that the pocket collects some of the oil that's being flung around by the gears and dumps it onto the U-joint before returning it to the sump.

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Not shown I did final gasket installation on push rod cover and thus could get to distributor install.

 

PXL_20230819_135108603.jpg.0a2d2d64e8ce0591e0bf91ab8d818a12.jpg

 

It didn't want to go down flush with the block, but I kept tightening a little each side which was not over stressing anything eventually got it fully down to the block.

PXL_20230819_152542790.jpg.c5de065095055f5f016f14b129f01bd5.jpg

 

And then starter installed

PXL_20230819_152546103.jpg.b30081d70687ba710c4fcd300886f5b0.jpg

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So a couple oopses to take care of will require some redo unfortunately.

 

Front exhaust pipe will have to come off to install this bracket.

PXL_20230819_182138428.jpg.2a1ab5feb1236988d53e8725d0bb6ea5.jpg

 

And then the bigger redo is for this

PXL_20230819_182140862.jpg.52315115543c545601660c1f40ff6134.jpg

 

The throw out bearing support... Yup trans has to come off for that one. Oh well, glad I noticed it on the exploded view diagram when I was looking at it for pedal install. Better to realize it now when I have access to everything. It did take me a minute to find where I actually put it hence why I forgot to include it during install.

 

This will probably be my labor day weekend project.

 

Hopefully will get some more done tomorrow.

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Brian, a great step by step build.

 

With your transmission not having any oil in it at present, do you tag anything as a reminder to fill it? 
 

And if the engine is not  filled, same?

 

Last thing you need is a test drive with zero lubrication. 

 

Just checking 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

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28 minutes ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Brian, a great step by step build.

 

With your transmission not having any oil in it at present, do you tag anything as a reminder to fill it? 
 

And if the engine is not  filled, same?

 

Last thing you need is a test drive with zero lubrication. 

 

Just checking 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

I filled the trans this AM.

 

I have blue painters tape on the oil dip stick.

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As mentioned earlier in the thread... It's Labor Day weekend so I talked the missing Throw out bearing support.

 

I had ordered some 1/2" course 4.5" long bolts and I cut the heads off first.

PXL_20230902_155117663.jpg.93ca66c532c7f20d2f59f8bae105db1d.jpg

 

With the heads cut off they became support guides for the trans

PXL_20230902_160343431.jpg.b0a7e7cdf0d2a94c77d5200f3bbbed6e.jpg

PXL_20230902_163257887.jpg.abc3fdd8c197af47a8a0a915d2ce3458.jpg

 

From there I unbolted the rear end from the frame and the trans support brace, etc., etc. I put the rear axle wheels on rolling caster dollies

 

After that it was fairly easy. Pulled the complete drive train back, installed the missing piece, re installed the trans. Took longer to unbolt the whole thing (and then re-bolt it all).

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Not quite sure I like how the exhaust bracket bolts to the bellhousing. I think the exhaust might be a bit different than the OEM being the issue

PXL_20230902_200406380.jpg.d683530ee6711182e774a721ce381845.jpg

 Hard to see but it is not right to the bellhousing.

PXL_20230902_200415280.jpg.7a61ce1d71972b28bac6511d0658b9c2.jpg

 

I installed the splash pans on the Driver's side and relocated to the correct spot the drain tube from the carb.

PXL_20230902_200448308.jpg.2ef51118e28db216521d3faa5cede4ba.jpg

 

Finally I installed the pedals.

PXL_20230902_200443467.jpg.a338322b636dad9ca5bf3a7db434ea6e.jpg

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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That exhaust bracket is a PITA.  The one I made broke at that sharp bend at the bellhousing.  Mine wasn't as thick as the original, so I guess I need to try again.  I have some steel that looks like the right thickness, but it's a b__ch to bend around the pipe circumference without an acetylene torch...

 

PXL_20230902_200406380.jpg.d683530ee6711

 

Edited by EmTee (see edit history)
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