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Carolina Roadmasters: Collect all 4 - '38 Roadmaster Model 87


38Buick 80C

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12 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Bolted together.

PXL_20220904_115916482.jpg.b358bc6ba2299155a0d956a7606d57ff.jpg

 

 

Is your wife out of town by any chance?  Just thinking about the flack I would catch if I put engine parts on the living room carpet.  Or maybe your garage is carpeted?  Congrats on your progress -- everything looks great! 

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1 hour ago, neil morse said:

 

Is your wife out of town by any chance?  Just thinking about the flack I would catch if I put engine parts on the living room carpet.  Or maybe your garage is carpeted?  Congrats on your progress -- everything looks great! 

 

I finished before she woke up... 😂

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On 9/4/2022 at 7:59 PM, EmTee said:

Brian, the stitch looks great to me - I wouldn't see it without you pointing it out.  I see you painted the generator bracket green; mine is black.  Should I make mine green?

Could be one of those variables in assembly sequence. I’ve seen many painted black, but engine color makes sense. Logic would suggest that the engines would have as much assembly completed as possible, then painted. Also, the bracket would be installed separately from the generator since access to the two bolts is more easily accomplished without your the generator in the way. Both of these conditions suggest the bracket would be on the block and painted with the block. The problem with logic is that Buick has disproved that concept on other parts to these cars. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

so I got the body mount pads the other day when the shop separated the body from the chassis. I went over to Steele rubber and got what I believe are the matches (not listed in the catalog for Buick) with significant help and the experience of Eddie Lail.

 

So take note for anyone doing one of these cars frame off, you wont find this published anywhere until now.

 

This should be the same for any 38-40 80 series sedans (the 80Cwas definitely different).

 

For the mount at the cowl: no available options. Will be making these from rubber mat by hand.

 

For body mount points 2 through 5 Left and right:

Steele Rubber part numbers 70-0235-48 and 70-264-48, these same 2 are also are used at the body mount center of car in front of the gas tank. So a quantity of 9 each are needed for one car. These we THINK are a match, but it was hard to tell.

 

For the mount center of chassis behind the gas tank

50-0231-48 and 50-0097-48... 1 each

 

231 is an exact match of what I had. 50-0097-48 is NOT an exact match but similar in thickness and outside diameter, but the hole for the bolt is much larger. 

 

image000000.jpg.2859c8cc6225dbdc9fa108d8ad1a08f4.jpg

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1 hour ago, DonMicheletti said:

Question,

Should the little hose between the water pumkp and thermostst housing be painted?

I'd think that if the engine was painted after completely assembled, that hose probably would be green too.

I hear ya Don, but I can't do it... 😕

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On 9/19/2022 at 4:33 PM, neil morse said:

Congratulations, Brian, on the great feature article on your Roadmaster Phaeton in the latest issue of "Antique Automobile."  What a beautiful job you did!

 

9 hours ago, dship said:

Just finished reading your AACA article.  Congratulations...it was a great read.

 

 

Glad you both enjoyed the article. Obviously humbled that AACA magazine wanted to feature the car and to share our story.

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  • 1 month later...

Supposedly the car went next door to the media blaster last week. Been hearing that for a while but pretty confident this time.

 

Aside from that resprayed the tin on the motor, still not where I want it but put a a bunch of coats on and plan to color sand them. I did a test piece on an under car tin and it came out well with just 600, but I will do 1500. Just need to be careful not to burn through in corners and ribs.

 

Boys soccer is precluding much work on anything else. Pretty well a full weekend schedule through end of January and don't have the spring schedules yet. 

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Wet color sanded some items ,but burned through, so I did another coat on the VC, push rod cover and spark plug cover.

 

Pretty pleased, but still need just a little love. No pictures until I'm happy with them.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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9 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

 

yeah I know I know...

 

one of 6 known left to exist.... nuff said...

I feel you on this level of restoration; 'cause I only have 4 checks left.  I'm currently looking for another source of funding.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The frame has been media blasted, with the exception of the area under neat the radiator on the K frame i really don't see much of any pitting from rust.

 

image000001.jpg.f44271f46491210f7fb768f82493ad04.jpgimage000005.jpg.9435af822c48f7283f8279b443a07488.jpg

 

 

what I do see is a lot more pulling and straightening needed to the frame at the LR (and other places) then I expected For example see the photos below

image000000.jpg.9662c349a76c08bce6141cbda306eafb.jpg

image000006.jpg.e581ebd091c06f9da6dfca5b7c4800fc.jpg

image000003.jpg.786e0da88a3fcf359bc95cc71d44995c.jpg

 

 

Also this wire running along the left frame rail is not something I encountered on the 80C. based on the clips I feel like it could be original period to the car, but I question whether it is a factory wire as it certainly not provided by any of the repro wire companies now. Best I can tell it started at the rear most corner (LR) at a bolt, but only strands of wire left there and then runs to the front probably to the cowl. It seems like it is a ground cause of the bolt at the LR but why run a wire all the way to the rear to ground when any other closer place would have been fine. I could see it being a ground wire for the gas tank sending unit, but again it just seems a weird way to run it.  It is NOT related to the radio antenna, its not that type of wire. It seems to be insulated with fabric tape (as seen at the clips), not a plastic type insulation or a plastic coated fabric. Judge for yourself.

image000007.jpg.96e5171b772cfb1a61d178d089a8c3ae.jpg

image000004.jpg.16aec1323a168cda2270cb46ae067f4e.jpg

the strands of wire at the LR are visible in the earlier photoimage000000.jpg.9662c349a76c08bce6141cbda306eafb.jpg

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Body is still at the media blaster next door and I didn't go looking for it.

 

So apparently there is a wait to get in the frame shop to pull on the frame so trying to figure out if I can move anything forward while we wait. I have a few ideas but not much can be done if the wait is longer than a few weeks. disappointing to be so close to making some real progress, but just have to sit and continue to wait.

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Doesn't seem like a ground wire.  If so, why would there be insulation around it where it passes through the frame clip?  Must have been power to something.  Is there anything to suggest a trailer hitch was ever installed?  Maybe a backup light mounted to the bumper?

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23 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

...trying to figure out if I can move anything forward while we wait

Maybe drain the rear axle, install new axle seals and check (replace if necessary) and pack the bearings.  Refill with fresh 90W.  How about brake work?  Are you going to replace any of the brake lines?  What about control arm bushings, king pin bushings, etc...

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1 hour ago, EmTee said:

Maybe drain the rear axle, install new axle seals and check (replace if necessary) and pack the bearings.  Refill with fresh 90W.  How about brake work?  Are you going to replace any of the brake lines?  What about control arm bushings, king pin bushings, etc...

The seals and bearings had occurred to me cause I was going to have the shop do them. The rest waits for me to receive the chassis as I am doing all of that myselfand returning the fully restored chassis back to the shop to be reunited to the body.

 

Step one stripping and then painting the chassis however...

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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PXL_20221203_142322203.jpg.0060a5750ad2a110e08f55f10d1945b5.jpg

 

So left one is an OEM knee action shock for an 80 series Buick in 38.

 

What are the right ones? Note they are different from each other if u look at the A arms. Bolt holes to mount to the frame match the OEM shock and when placed on top of the OEM the outer upper knuckle point is the same.

 

I'm thinking either aftermarket replacements or for a different GM car or later Buick.

 

Does anyone know?

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I can't read all of the numbers in your photos but, 1933B 1G 1B shows up in my Chassis manual as 1936 61-68 (Right Front) which is interesting as it seems to have a 1948 manufacture date. I suspect that if I had a later manual, I might find some other uses for that same number given the manufacture date. 

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9 hours ago, EmTee said:

So, were those two smaller shocks the ones that were on the car when you disassembled it?

No spares in the collection of parts dad and I have assembled over 40+ years of playing with 38-80 series Buicks. If I recall the "cleaner" one was on the 80C and I found a replacement set for THAT car , hence why it is clean as that car was also media blasted.

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So I couldn't work up the motivation to work on wet sanding the tin...or going to storage for something I have to do on my '30. Boys had soccer both days and watched world cup too yesterday.

 

That said I did receive some items I needed courtesy of Dave Tachney.

 

PXL_20221211_230900760.jpg.ebe439209d45ba6ca2818ffe98bb424b.jpg

 

LH hood side louvers and RH good solid no rust headlight pod.

 

Also got two good front motor mount bolts as I broke one and one was stretched and twisted and soon to fail.

 

Also I have a deal from my friend in SoCal to buy the rope rail mounts I need and he has a wiring harness that is a deal too good to refuse. I go out there in January and pick those up in person.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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