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Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick


Beemon

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8 hours ago, Beemon said:

Well I officially graduated on Saturday. They have it kind of backwards, because I still have classes until the end of the week, but I'm glad because it looks like I'll be able to leave Wednesday at the latest. Then its back to Me and my Buick. :)

 

 Really?  But, but, you just started school last week!  Didn't you?     Man , time flies when we are having fun.

 

 Congratulations!   

 

  Don't forget us.

 

  Ben

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I've been working this degree since 2010, the same year I started my Buick and the same year I graduated after the death of my grandmother. It's been a long road, getting sucked into the politics of community college, but I wouldn't give it up. 

 

I started my Buick project to save my grandfather from grief but it ultimately helped both of us get through life in our own ways. Im glad that despite all the shortcomings, he at least got to see the car painted again before he passed. 

 

I don't plan to go anywhere. Sometimes out of spite I threaten to sell the car, but I could never part with it because it has become not only a part of me and a part of who I am, but also the revival of my grandfather's spirit and I couldn't give that away.

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On 12/10/2019 at 4:15 PM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

That is the spirit. Show that rascal, and the world, who is the boss.

 

I was just told you made your breaks self adjusting. Did you document the details here?

 

 Ben

 

Hi Ben,

 

I think I posted about it in Post War, but I don't blame you if nothing came up in the search bar. I can never find what I'm looking for with it.

 

The donor vehicle was a 1968 Buick Riviera, but any 12 inch drum brake Buick past I believe 1964 will work. Unfortunately they do not sell the adjuster arm new, so you need to find a good used pair at the junkyard. I found two cars and put them on the front and rears, but I had trouble finding a local shop that did custom brake lining so I went to a disc kit on the front (one I had purchased before). I still have them on the rears and they work perfect. 

 

Image may contain: 1 person

 

Here is the set installed on the front. All of the springs and associated hardware was bought NEW from NAPA. I don't remember part numbers, but you can find them on RockAuto or the NAPA catalogs. You might have to search different years or models on both sites. I used to have an excel sheet, but I think I lost it when I lost my backup thumb drive (irony).

 

No photo description available.

 

This is the replacement override spring on the left with the originals on the right. I don't know when they changed the design but they are and work the same as the originals. 

 

Hope this helps!

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So you guys remember when I started talking about vibration issues when driving the car? Well I think I figured it out, sort of.

 

Image may contain: outdoor

 

I'm not sure when this happened. Its kind of the wrong time of the year to do stuff with cars, but looks like I'll have a weekend project of aligning the front end myself. At least to within reason. It'll be difficult with tires like these, so I'll rotate them first, then align it. Hopefully with my second or third paycheck I can invest in some nice white walls, and then align it again.

 

My car still rides on original suspension equipment, but I've watched the car move through full travel and there doesn't seem to be any type of play in any of the bushings. When I first got the car, the grease was still soft where it was thin, but solid where it wasn't. I cleaned the living daylights out of all that stuff and it pushes fresh grease without issue. The only thing I threw out of whack was the tie-rod adjustment. If I remember correctly, reading one of @old-tank's posts, he used an app on his phone to use the built in gyroscope for measuring angles.

 

Image may contain: car, tree and outdoor

 

Since I'm back home, here's a vanity picture of the fleet in good ol' Wetstern Washington.

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  • 7 months later...
On 12/11/2019 at 7:40 PM, Beemon said:

So you guys remember when I started talking about vibration issues when driving the car? Well I think I figured it out, sort of.

 

Image may contain: outdoor

 

I'm not sure when this happened. Its kind of the wrong time of the year to do stuff with cars, but looks like I'll have a weekend project of aligning the front end myself. At least to within reason. It'll be difficult with tires like these, so I'll rotate them first, then align it. Hopefully with my second or third paycheck I can invest in some nice white walls, and then align it again.

 

My car still rides on original suspension equipment, but I've watched the car move through full travel and there doesn't seem to be any type of play in any of the bushings. When I first got the car, the grease was still soft where it was thin, but solid where it wasn't. I cleaned the living daylights out of all that stuff and it pushes fresh grease without issue. The only thing I threw out of whack was the tie-rod adjustment. If I remember correctly, reading one of @old-tank's posts, he used an app on his phone to use the built in gyroscope for measuring angles.

 

Image may contain: car, tree and outdoor

 

Since I'm back home, here's a vanity picture of the fleet in good ol' Wetstern Washington.

Any updates?

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  • 1 year later...

Well I figured out the vibration problem - tire belt came loose. I put new shoes on the girl last year and its been smooth since.

 

In the last two years I have maybe put 200 miles on the car. Definitely not driving like she used to be. My main focus up until August of last year was keeping my 81 K5 Blazer afloat.

No photo description available.

 

I can't remember if I ever talked about my K5, but it all started with a need to finish school in some of the worst winter driving I've done. I bought it for $1200 and it was Bubba'd pretty bad. Over the past two years, any spare change I've had has gone to trying to keep this thing running, with the first step saving up enough for a cheap JEGS L31 long block and a China special intake manifold.

No photo description available.

 

This truck originally started as an 81 with a 305 sbc and a frankenstein drivetrain. Originally it came from the factory with an SM465/205 combo. Behind the engine was a TH350/NP208. This was quickly reverted with a SM465/208 combo I found out of a mid 80s truck. Needless to say, with what I've done to my Buick, I would say my truck is a 1981~91 or somewhere thereabouts. 

May be an image of nature

 

Also this is my cat that I rescued as a 5 week old Kitten from a bush and some terrible neighbors. She is my wingman and loves to cruise every now and then (AC required).

May be an image of animal and outdoors

 

So while this was all going on, I went through some life changing issues, one was a divorce from my partner of 9 years (married for 2). This was move out day with my third, newly acquired and financed Z71 Chevrolet Avalanche. Its only been broken into once since owning it.

May be an image of car and road

 

During this time, I kept my Buick mostly garaged with an occasional sprint here and there that usually wasn't any more than 10-15 miles, maybe once every 2-3 months. Here's a few pictures, I think from when I believe I left you guys up to current.

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

May be an image of car and outdoors

May be an image of car and road

 

This last one was most recently at work 2 months ago. I still haven't replaced my vanity plate from the accident. I'm looking to see if I can find a steel plate to go behind it. I used to have one, not sure where it went. I'm still also looking for a Century center piece for the grill - it currently still says Special from when the repair shop threw away all my spare parts post deer accident. My favorite part of the car (one of them anyways) has always been the power antenna. I have not yet fixed that either since the shop broke it. I have honestly not done anything to this car period since I have been absent on the forums. It has been a struggle to pick up and spin a wrench on it because of how sour the whole ordeal felt. To be completely honest with you all, the only reason I think I even came back (okay the other main reason is because I missed you all) is this picture right here:

May be an image of 1 person, standing and outdoors

 

My college roommate had an Olds family and he's inheriting his great grandfathers 58 Olds long roof wagon. I of course photobombed in response to an old picture I took of him helping me pull the rear end out of the Buick. This summer we're going to try and get it running and driving in some capacity. Of course I had to challenge him to a race when its all said and done. My 322 vs his 371.

 

And honestly after letting the car sit, I can't believe how great the engine runs with zero maintenance other than oil changes. The generator did go out on me again, I'm 4 for 4 on those things, and it is still yet unexplainable. But, dwell is still sitting at 32, engine fires up perfect, and the ride is still amazing. 

 

Now that I can afford working on this again, I have a few things on my bucket list for this year:

1. Remove disc brake kit (again). This is a touchy subject. I put 12x2.5 drums on the front, but the drums were machined out of tolerance, they warped and not being able to afford the drums I put the disc brakes back on. The discs are a pain honestly. The residue valve rides them, and I feel like I have reduced braking characteristics all the time even though the pedal is firm. I also bought a brake shoe caliper to set the rears for the self-adjusting rear brakes to see if it would have any further effect. It did not. Next paycheck I'll be purchasing new drums, a replacement turn signal lense and gasket.

2. Seal up the rear end. I have a gear oil leak on the driver side axle, which tells me either it's not venting, or I need RTV on that gasket or O-ring. Passenger side is fine, maybe O-ring ripped??

3. Replace all front-end fasteners with correct hardware. The repair shop mismatched all my original fasteners and threw everything back together haphazardly. This is a personal taste item, but I'm sure you all understand.

4. Fix my dash lights. They come on intermittently, not sure why.

5. Fix power antenna tube. The tube that holds the excess cable is what broke off. As a result, it also ripped the cable from the mast and broke the retainer. I will be looking for a way to crimp on a new retainer if possible. 

6. Find new grill emblem

7. Replace front vanity plate

8. Replace parking brake cable from pedal to rear cable. It is frayed under the body.

9. New body mounts (maybe). Thoughts on this job??

 

I'll probably add more as I go.

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On 4/14/2022 at 9:36 PM, lancemb said:

Glad you checked in and you and the Buick are doing okay!  Dash light problems are likely caused by a corroded headlight switch rheostat - easy to bypass.

Rheostat works, I think its the aftermarket gauges and tach I installed. The tach I will be pulling out, don't see much use for it anymore other than it was cool to see engine rpm ~= speed with a dynaflow. The lights come on and off occasionally, so I think its a ground.

 

On 4/15/2022 at 8:26 AM, 1956322 said:

Welcome back!! I had the same problem with disc brakes and ended up going with a battle born master cylinder set up.. works pretty well…

 

https://www.battlebornbrakes.com

I have looked at this kit, and the AC kit. I can do the AC kit because it looks close to stock, but the brake kit for me changes too much. I have never had an issue with my original power brake master cylinder after I rebuilt it, it just takes more pedal effort to stop with discs.

 

 

I was coming up a hill yesterday and the engine temps started creeping towards 190. I had to take the old clutch fan off and put the mechanical back on and it was having a hard time of things. I'm going to try this product I got turned on to called Thermocure. Seems that a lot of people have had great success with its ability to dissolve rust, so hopefully this can do something for me. 

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I completely understand.. In my situation i kinda didn’t have much choice..i was pretty sure the original power brake set up was keeping light pressure on the rotors.. and i was right.. You might also consider the power master powergen looks stock but works great I’ve had no complaints about it besides price.. got tired of regulator’s going out and just being dead off the shelf and yes i was polarizing them and they sadly were made in usa units

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8 hours ago, 1956322 said:

Maybe my memory is wrong but didn’t you have the radiator recored??

 

I had the radiator re-cored to a 3 core in 2015. I had it rodded out about 2 years ago after I put my replacement engine in. I've started filming my documentary on the Thermocure product, but I have a feeling I will need to remove the radiator and have it rodded out again.

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  • 2 months later...

Can you try flushing out the bottom tank clean to get any sediment out then make a fixture that seals up a water hose to the lower radiator hose inlet, or heater hose inlet, and try flushing  it out the top?  Think EmTee had some widget he engineered that did that….
 

Not to resurrect the dreaded clutch fan thread, but for a point of comparative reference am still running the dreaded 5 blade HD clutch fan we discussed, running AC using a 3 core HD radiator and runs fine at 200-210 on a 95 deg day with AC on.  I followed JDs advise and used some rubber welting to seal up the perimeter gap between the shroud and radiator to minimize end around in the airflow.

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3 minutes ago, KAD36 said:

Think EmTee had some widget he engineered that did that….

"Engineered" is being generous...  I believe all I did was wrap an old bicycle innertube around the end of my garden hose until it was a snug fit in the lower radiator hose.  Then I simply used a wormgear clamp to tighten it down.  The other end of the hose was attached to the lower radiator tank.  I then turned on the water and let it fill from the bottom up and run out the upper tank hose nipple.

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Definitely worth giving a shot. I can drive small distances and the car cools as expected, just a little hot. I drive longer than 20 mins and the radiator can't keep up. Thermostat is working. Ken I did test the fan clutch and it would not lock up with a heat gun. Would love to try it again with a new clutch. 

 

I can give flushing bottom up a go, any psi preferences?

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3 hours ago, Beemon said:

Definitely worth giving a shot. I can drive small distances and the car cools as expected, just a little hot. I drive longer than 20 mins and the radiator can't keep up. Thermostat is working. Ken I did test the fan clutch and it would not lock up with a heat gun. Would love to try it again with a new clutch. 

 

I can give flushing bottom up a go, any psi preferences?

Volume will be more important than pressure.  I read somewhere that coolant systems operate at around 35=40 GPM.  I am lucky to get 5 GPM from a garden hose.

 

  Ben

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12 hours ago, Beemon said:

So flip the car upside down and hook up a 2 hp pump... lol

…and if you can shake it, all the lost French fries under the front seat will come out too

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  • 10 months later...

So an update because I haven't been able to work on the car in a very long time. I got the radiator out today and back flushed it for funsies. I got a ton of nasty stuff out of the top after I flushed and shook. I did this about 4 times before stuff stopped coming out of the radiator. I'm still on the fence about getting it rodded out, since the new price is $500. Here's a small portion of the larger group of junk that came out.

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My gut feeling says this is freeze plugs, hooray. Most of the chunks disintegrated under finger pressure. I am still debating getting a 40 gpm pump. For now I think I might put it back in and go for a ride tomorrow. Otherwise the car is driving great for the 2 hours I had it out. It magically leaked 3 qts of ATF in the storage unit so I'm pretty sure the front pump seal is bad since it was wet in the bellhousing... I'm hoping I can make it another year as I'm planning to be a home owner by the end of this year or early next year. 

 

In regards to the car in general, after the accident I feel embarrassed to call this my car. Between the speed bolts the shop used to the lack of bolts in general, I'm just generally disappointed in myself. It doesn't feel like my car anymore, and I'm sad that the antenna - my favorite feature and repair - was broken by the shop. Over the next couple weeks I'm going to completely tear apart the front end and put it back together. They even lost the L bracket that holds up the battery tray, and the front driver fender is held on by the bolts that run up the top. 

 

Having really stepped into my career, I'm drafting up a very professionally spicy review for the shop.

 

Anyways here's the car the night I brought her home. Going to perform an oil change and further ponder my radiator situation. 

20230524_211700.jpg.5a4577bbeae76887f4296b285267990e.jpg

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So I think I found an obvious problem. After convincing my mother to use her kitchen tools with car parts, I set up a stove pot and thermostat and dropped my "160" T-stat in the pot. 

 

It opened at 190 and closed at 170. I filmed it but my mom tripped over a dog bowl and dropped the F 💣

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Sounds like a new thermostat is on the list.  Also, I suggest installing a stocking filter at the inlet to the radiator.  That will catch all of that crud that wants to otherwise foul your radiator core.  ;)

 

I have one in series (behind) the Gano filter on my '38.  The Gano catches any big flakes and the stocking intercepts the finer particles...

 

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