Mid-Rise Lifts

[MochetVelo]

Anyone have any experience with low or mid-rise lifts? These raise the car to about 17" (QuickJack) up to about 44" (Atlas). They are for garages with lower ceilings. The prices are around $1500 to $1800. They're also portable and have a fairly low profile when collapsed (3" & 5.25"). They look handy for lower post-war cars, but the brass-era cars often have chassis 24" off the ground.

 

Phil

[Terry Bond]

Don't know anything about this particular type but a friend in our local MG club bought something similar and then found it would not work under his MG.  Fortunately he had other cars he could use it on.  Think that if you measure carefully to ensure it fits between wheels and fits the frame at lift points it looks pretty handy.

Terry

[padgett]

I have one that is rated for 7,000 lbs (used to have a 6,300 lb RV) and goes from 4" to 40". Has folding ramps on end so could handle 145" WB RV to 94.5" WB Crossfire (smallest I have). What I look for are mechanical locks (usually air release), dual pistons (so center is open), and metal trays underneath (do not want rollers on concrete). Portable is also handy.

 

Just posted this picture in the garage thread but you get this idea.

 

AFAIR both an MG TC and MGA have 94" WB so should be NP with my lift. Main ramps are 58" long and folding (lock to support full weight) are 10" on either end. Ramps are 18" wide with about 33" open center (enough to drop a transmission). Wood on side was for RV which had an offset frame and was over 84" wide.

 

This what was available in 2013, may be other options now.

Edited November 12, 2016 by padgett (see edit history)

[kgreen]

My preliminary search for my low ceiling garage brought me to the portable lift:

 

https://www.eagleequip.com/product/MobileMan.html

 

This lift will go higher than you want but does not obstruct the underside of the car.  You can lift to the maximum height you selectwith a shorter garage roof structure, then lock it.  This lift allows access to the wheels for any work on the axles, steering, springs, etc.  The ramps are good if you want ease of access for the car and don't want to crawl on the floor locating the lift points like you would on this portable model.  The ramps limit your access to suspension parts.  If you desire, the unit can be rolled outside on a nice day when you want higher lift.  I saw the unit in use at a shop; it is easy to move and very stable.

 

 

[JACK M]

OK for brakes, but no under car work.

I see them having very limited use.

[padgett]

Did I mention that good ones have mechanical locks. Like most lifts and jack stands you have to raise a bit to release the locks (some require air) before it can lower. Also the two platforms are connected by a torque tube so the sides must stay together both raising and lowering.

 

Now idiots can always manage to bypass any safety but mine even has a big red STOP button that kills everything and resets the locks.

 

ps "Mobile Man" single column sounds like a neat idea but I would prefer a base that extends further under the car (looks like they extend 59" less the width of the column. Fine for a small car but my GTP is 72" wide & at the time needed something that could lift my RV.

Edited November 12, 2016 by padgett (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

I picked up a used Snap On mid-rise- 48" on my birthday in September. I like it so far and it is convenient to park over when not in use. It showed up on Craigslist for $500 and cost $60 to flatbed it home. I can see it will have some limitations, but will do a good job.

I am still watching the ads for a Kwik Lift. A friend has one and loves it. If one shows up under $1000 I will probably go for it.

I built my garage in 1988, about 2 years before lifts became common in home garages. If I had known the ceiling would be higher. Buying a MaxJax is on the list as well. Those are going for $2,000 at Home Depot. I have room for all three and logical locations planned.

I think I can have all three for under $3500 if I am patient. There is certainly enough clutter to generate the cash if I get a little ambitious on Ebay.

 

There are a lot of write ups online, enough to convince me I need one of each style. Choosing just one, I would pick the Kwik Lift or a used alignment rack.

Bernie

[Amphicar BUYER]

I have 2 mid-rise that lift to 60". It can be in the way in the center but works well for many things. Somebody mentioned that his MG was too skinny to fit, then use a couple 2x6s along side to drive up on and the lift will work just fine on it. I have used mine for everything from Amphicars, campers, flatbed trailer, to do brakes/axels my Harley and sidecar, pickups, many others including lifting me up to reach stuff as I use a wheelchair so my reach can be a problem.

 

They are the best for suspension, bodywork or front end work. A great way to lift heavy things to tailgate height too. I have put the 2 together  to lift a single vehicle to allow the center access for me. I paid $1k for ea used. 

[60FlatTop]

And if you have flat surface syndrome you can put a 4X8 sheet of plywood and have yet another 32 square feet of clutter! and another car sitting outside.

[padgett]

Center has never been an issue. Can drop a rear suspension/axle or even a trans/Fiero gas tank from center is a 33" opening (need a two piston & torque tube design).

 

ps rubber mat is to keep from sliding on polished cement when driving on. Wood ramps were needed for wide RV.

 

Edited November 14, 2016 by padgett (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

Do the "finger" lifts enable one to lift a vintage car in front of and behind the spring hangers? Else there is only a short section of chassis between the front and rear spring hangers and the car drapes like a banana!

[Jay Wolf]

I have a MaxJax I have had for 3 years and been very happy with it. I have a mounting spot outside and one inside.

 

 

[padgett]

Must admit part of my issue with the MaxJax was the need to bolt down a rather small base. Did not have the capacity I needed so never looked very hard.

[60FlatTop]

Here is the Snapon I bought. It is a Youtube paste. Mine is under the car hidden away. It included four rubber blocks and I might pick up a few more. The older ones have one cylinder, newer have two. Works.

 

[MikeC5]

I have a MaxJax that I'm happy with.  But unless you remove the side aprons/running boards from your antique car you would need some tall spacers to lift it from the frame.  On the other hand, with such high ground clearance a lift isn't mandatory.  I use the MaxJax for 'modern' machinery.

[Amphicar BUYER]

14 hours ago, MikeC5 said:

I have a MaxJax that I'm happy with.  But unless you remove the side aprons/running boards from your antique car you would need some tall spacers to lift it from the frame.  On the other hand, with such high ground clearance a lift isn't mandatory.  I use the MaxJax for 'modern' machinery.

 

Mine has 4 shorter pads and 4 longer adjustable pads that add an extra 8-10" for trucks and older cars.

[Zimm63]

I installed a two post lift in my 9' high garage.  Couldn't put a car all the way up, but used a rolling stool to work underneath.  Much better than jack stands and rolling around on the floor.  

 

We moved last summer, and I brought it with me.  New garage is 10' high, which may allow the Riv to be high enough to walk under.  For sure the TR3 will be fine.  

 

Its a Ben Pearson LMP7, about 40 years old.  I have rebuilt the cylinders and replaced the cables since I got it.  Very happy to have it and may add a 4 post in the new shop.  We'll see.

 

 

[MikeC5]

Hi John,  were those adjustable pads a MaxJax option?  I don't remember seeing them.  If not, may I ask where you bought them?

[padgett]

Up far enough to replace a firewall side freeze plug (cannot reach from top - FWD). Note center opening.

 

If doing over think the Atlas Kwik Bay has some advantages (like a 110v pump, mine is 220v).