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Everything posted by MochetVelo

  1. Yes, my machine is the 30" model sold by many retailers like Eastwood, HF, Grizzly, etc. As stated, they are not for heavy gauge metals, but work fine for auto body steel and aluminum. A larger size machine would be handy, but I have limited space so I use what I can afford. Phil
  2. I've had one for several years and have made all sorts of panels and parts with it. The width is a limiting factor, but I do mostly smaller cars. It works fine. Made in China, I think.
  3. Metz won the Glidden in 1913. Here is a photo of the team. The tourists followed along a train route through the northwest to Glacier National Park. The drivers were housed in the train after they drove during the daylight hours. Phil
  4. This is a detail of a Shorpy photo of Memphis taken in 1910.
  5. I brought these parts along with another job to my local machinist/welder who does very nice work. I'll post a photo when it's done. Phil
  6. Wonder what that would cost for these 2 small parts?
  7. The worn clutch parts are steel and not cast iron. The worn parts are not shown in my second photo. The shaft to the right in photo #2 connects to the crankshaft. The clutch fork, an upside-down U-shape, site right above the groove pointed to by my orange screwdriver. It holds the 2 worn parts in photo #1, which ride in that groove. I wish there were some nice drawings of this transmission, but I've never seen any. It's a 1909 Model 10 Buick. Phil
  8. There is no bearing, which explains the wear. Here's a photo of the cone clutch removed from its holder. The steel slider on the right disengages the clutch by moving to the left. It spreads the 3 roller arms which, in turn, push the cone clutch inward. The slot in the slider (the orange screwdriver is aimed at it) is where the worn "fork" parts above fit. As you can see, there is no bearing. They just loosely fit in the slot. Phil
  9. Yes, they are symmetrical, and most wear is on one side. They must both push and pull the clutch, however. They clutch locks in the disengaged position and is then pulled out of the locked position to engage. I could weld the worn sides and also reverse them. Phil
  10. I'm thinking to repair these worn clutch fork parts with weld. I could use MIG or gas welding and then file them smooth. These just ride in a slot to engage the clutch. Any suggestions? 1909 Buick. Phil
  11. Yes, you are correct. I received a reply on another forum that this setup was to set the radial play in the planetary gear box. I'm still thinking about how to go about that. The Buick Model 10, made from 1908 to 1910, had a 2-speed planetary transmission with three drums. The front drum was the low speed, the middle drum reverse, and the rear drum was the transmission brake. If you look carefully at my photo, you'll see the brake drum has been replaced by a disc brake in my car; pretty clever. This transmission was an oil leaker, so I replaced the bronze bushings to seal it up. I hope it works when I put it all back! Phil
  12. A view of the transmission in the car. Phil
  13. I am stumped as to the function of this part in my 1909 Buick Model 10 2-speed planetary transmission. The main shaft that connects the crankshaft to driveshaft has a threaded insert at the driveshaft (rear) end. This insert is itself threaded on its I.D., and a hex bolt fits in. It looks in good condition, but I can't figure out what it is for. It doesn't seem to act upon any other parts. I thought it might remove play between the engine and drive train, but I can't see how. Any ideas? The 6-bolt flange in the photos bolts to the U-joint into which the driveshaft is inserted. Photo 2 shows the mystery assembly screwed in place and photo 3 shows it removed. There is nothing in the shaft but a tapped hole. Phil
  14. You can apply Evaporust to larger parts with a small water pump to recirculate the liquid. A length of perforated hose will flow the product onto a fender, for example.
  15. Thanks. I did think 130 ft lbs was a bit high!
  16. What is 1.5 m Kg in ft. lbs? I found two calculators on the web; one says 130 ft lbs, the other 10.84 ft lbs. This is for some Citroen rod nuts.
  17. I'm replacing the connecting rod nuts on my 1924 Citroen engine. They do not use cotter pins, and were originally secured with punch marks on the nuts. Would red or blue Loctite be useful here? Phil
  18. Stan was the only guy I knew who specialized in brass-era carburetors. Most shops will not touch a carb unless they can get a rebuild kit. Phil
  19. Why not? Here are some instructions for building early car replicas: http://horselesscarriagereplicas.com/plans.html Also, I suggest the 1913 book "How to Build a Cyclecar" published by Temple Press. It's available as a reprint here: https://www.prewarcar.com/320394-how-to-build-a-cyclecar-reprint. Also, you could try building a "Fantom" cyclecar from plans published in Sweden. This is actually a velocar in that it uses pedals. However, you could add a 2-cycle engine! See the 2003 book "Folkhemmets Farkoster" (ISBN 91-7988-232-3)... then learn Swedish. Also, Didn't Dyke's Encyclopedia publish DIY automobile plans? Phil
  20. I suggest using yacht paint available from boating supply houses such as West Marine and Jamestown Distributors. These paints are designed for brush/roller application and produce a very nice finish. The suggested application is to use a small roller then lightly tip it over with a fine brush. Since they are designed for yachts, they are weatherproof and come in numerous classy tints. There are a few YouTube videos on application. Phil
  21. I also received 'high-roller" treatment from George when I ordered a hub puller for my Citroen. He would phone and speak of his car experiences, ask questions about my car, and describe how he made his pullers. The end product was so heavily built that it should last a thousand years. A real pleasure dealing with this man. Phil
  22. Do you belong to the AACA? If not, then join, find you nearest chapter and attend a meeting, bringing some photos of your truck. You should be able to get a couple guys interested enough to come over and look at it. That's how you would get your best advice. They will want to know if the engine turns, if the cylinders have compression, if the block is cracked, radiator clogged, etc. Find literature on the truck; there is a lot online. Also, check out the Chevrolet clubs. There are several of them. Finally, try to get to Hershey this Fall. You will meet people who share your interest there. Phil
  23. Yes, Bosch made the DU4 in adjustable and non-adjustable timing models. The adjustable spark will work fine if you add a control cable or rod (and remember to retard the spark when starting!).
  24. I had a similar problem in Texas. I purchased a car from the daughter of the deceased owner. This guy had "jumped" the title (ie, he never transferred it to his name). A helpful Texas title agent told me that the daughter could get the title in her name without a lot of trouble, and then sign it over to me. However, after much foot-dragging, the lady refused to help. I then hired a lawyer here in PA who got the title transferred to me in court. Cost was about $700. The bottom line: get a bill-of-sale with signature of the person named on the title. Go to a title agency with the seller, if possible. If there is no good title, then get the seller to procure one. If they cannot supply a correct title, then buy at your own risk!
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