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Everything posted by MochetVelo

  1. Yes, Bosch made the DU4 in adjustable and non-adjustable timing models. The adjustable spark will work fine if you add a control cable or rod (and remember to retard the spark when starting!).
  2. I had a similar problem in Texas. I purchased a car from the daughter of the deceased owner. This guy had "jumped" the title (ie, he never transferred it to his name). A helpful Texas title agent told me that the daughter could get the title in her name without a lot of trouble, and then sign it over to me. However, after much foot-dragging, the lady refused to help. I then hired a lawyer here in PA who got the title transferred to me in court. Cost was about $700. The bottom line: get a bill-of-sale with signature of the person named on the title. Go to a title agency with the seller, i
  3. The Metz was not sold with an adjustable spark, and one is not really necessary. Be sure to set the spark a few degrees after TDC (top dead center). The timing is set with the gears from the crankshaft, so find the setting that gives you spark at TDC on the front plug (#1) and mark the flywheel. Then retard the timing by one tooth. You can check the timing with a battery-powered timing light against your mark on the flywheel. phil
  4. A very nice film of the Citroen factory in Paris about 1934. This factory was on the Seine very close to the Eiffel Tower. They manufacture the Traction Avant, the first mass-produced front wheel drive car. This car was made from 1934 to 1957. The body was stamped using a process licensed from the Budd Company in Philadelphia. Andre Citroen was a great fan of Henry Ford, and you can see how he adapted the assembly line. Note the very civilized lunch break; something Ford would not have approved! It's in French. Phil
  5. Sold for $427! These are being reproduced, I think, but it's nice to find an original. They were used on the Metz Model 25 radiator, but not the Model 22. Phil
  6. I looked on eBay under "Automobile coffee maker" and found dozens. They mostly work off the 12v cigarette lighter plug. The one in this thread is a nicer design, however. A coffee maker would make your car smell nice, but most people probably smoked a cig along with it. Phil
  7. I recall something like this mentioned a few years ago on the Forum. It turned out to be fake, and the guy lost his money. However, laser rust removal devices exist, and there are a number of videos to see. I think the rub is cost (like $80,000 - $480,000). Maybe the AACA could buy one and let me use it! Phil
  8. "volo" (latin) means to want or desire, so I guess this is the "I want to move" car. Phil
  9. Metz used the Bosch DU4 magneto. Other than the engine, it was the most expensive part of the car. It is a common magneto today, and is very well made. No pot metal or fiber parts. The magneto on the Metz did not have adjustable spark timing. Once set to the timing gears, there is no adjustment to the magneto spark. The advantage there is you never break your arm by forgetting to retard the spark. The disadvantage is you can't adjust the spark! You can use a DU4 with adjustable timing, but the Metz engine runs well with this system, as did many cars of the era. The Metz should start on the fir
  10. USA subscription link to Autobooks website contained no information on the magazine.
  11. Model makers create decals at home which are quite good. Search You Tube for some videos. Here is one I like. If you know someone with good computer skills, they can set up the type for you. I have actually used graphic designers on eBay who, for a few dollars, will create logos and custom labels text and artwork. Phil
  12. Anyone have a scroll compressor such as sold by Eastwood? Noise is about 63db, about that of normal conversation. Phil
  13. Check out my videos where I test two tarnish removers. The first being catsup (not so great), but the second one worked nicely. Phil
  14. Metz purchased the Waltham Clock Tool Company so they could make their own carburetors. Previously, they used the Holley model which is a similar design. The aluminum bodies make them tricky to restore. Phil
  15. Nostalgic Reflections makes both of those emblems. They are $185 each, however. Phil
  16. I subscribed. I've not seen the magazine, so I don't know what I'll be getting, but I do appreciate Richard's skills as a writer and editor. Not sure if it is "as ambitious as AQ," but it is about 40 pages longer, according to the web site. Oddly, a $3 "postage" fee is added to the subscription. Phil
  17. This story is often repeated, but is it true? You can read more here.
  18. Do you suppose that thread is still on the internet somewhere, like on Wayback Machine?
  19. Harrah's research library still exists at the National Automobile Museum in Reno. They kindly sent me copies of the files on their Metz restoration (though it took six or seven months). Wouldn't they have these books? When Harrah's collection was still ongoing, the mechanics would ask the librarian for literature on the car they were restoring, but they were never allowed to touch the original materials. It was only given to them in photocopied form. Phil
  20. Hi. I used the bearing that was there, which seemed to fit. It wasn't rounded like like factory design. It didn't have a name on it. You best bet is to go to a bearing shop and get the closest one they have. Phil
  21. I hope the AACA Library gets a hard copy so I can access it there. I wouldn't need the whole 2,000 page book.
  22. Know the average age of a Hemmings reader? We were told a couple years ago at the AACA Convention by editor Richard Lentinello. It's 68. Phil
  23. Sorry, I didn't see your post, Karl. I still have the patterns for the Hupmobile 20 intake manifold along with one or two actual castings. I'd donate the patterns to someplace where they could be accessible. I'm not sure if the Hupmobile Club would have a place for them. Phil
  24. The engine accessories still being assembled. I'm replacing the rust-pitted nuts with new blackened ones. I filled the pitted ends of the coolant tubes with JB Weld. Phil
  25. I returned the flywheel and clutch assembly to the engine today. I forgot the clutch had to be inserted before the engine is lowered, so had to remove it yet again. However, with all the accessories off, it only takes 5 minutes to lift it out. I believe the only practical way to remove the cone clutch assembly is to pull the engine, so I hope it works. The engine was tight from the rebuilding, but it cranks easier than I'd thought. I found the TDC mark on the flywheel is correct which means I have the flywheel bolt holes aligned correctly! The clutch withdraws smoothly with the pedal now. Nex
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