MochetVelo

Sold for $427! These are being reproduced, I think, but it's nice to find an original. They were used on the Metz Model 25 radiator, but not the Model 22. Phil

I looked on eBay under "Automobile coffee maker" and found dozens. They mostly work off the 12v cigarette lighter plug. The one in this thread is a nicer design, however. A coffee maker would make your car smell nice, but most people probably smoked a cig along with it. Phil

I recall something like this mentioned a few years ago on the Forum. It turned out to be fake, and the guy lost his money. However, laser rust removal devices exist, and there are a number of videos to see. I think the rub is cost (like $80,000 - $480,000). Maybe the AACA could buy one and let me use it! Phil

"volo" (latin) means to want or desire, so I guess this is the "I want to move" car. Phil

Metz used the Bosch DU4 magneto. Other than the engine, it was the most expensive part of the car. It is a common magneto today, and is very well made. No pot metal or fiber parts. The magneto on the Metz did not have adjustable spark timing. Once set to the timing gears, there is no adjustment to the magneto spark. The advantage there is you never break your arm by forgetting to retard the spark. The disadvantage is you can't adjust the spark! You can use a DU4 with adjustable timing, but the Metz engine runs well with this system, as did many cars of the era. The Metz should start on the first or second crank, as the Bosch provides plenty of spark. If you pull out your plugs and lay them on the cylinder head, you'll see. In other words, you should not need an impulse unit. Phil

USA subscription link to Autobooks website contained no information on the magazine.

Model makers create decals at home which are quite good. Search You Tube for some videos. Here is one I like. If you know someone with good computer skills, they can set up the type for you. I have actually used graphic designers on eBay who, for a few dollars, will create logos and custom labels text and artwork. Phil

Anyone have a scroll compressor such as sold by Eastwood? Noise is about 63db, about that of normal conversation. Phil

Check out my videos where I test two tarnish removers. The first being catsup (not so great), but the second one worked nicely. Phil

Metz purchased the Waltham Clock Tool Company so they could make their own carburetors. Previously, they used the Holley model which is a similar design. The aluminum bodies make them tricky to restore. Phil

Nostalgic Reflections makes both of those emblems. They are $185 each, however. Phil

I subscribed. I've not seen the magazine, so I don't know what I'll be getting, but I do appreciate Richard's skills as a writer and editor. Not sure if it is "as ambitious as AQ," but it is about 40 pages longer, according to the web site. Oddly, a $3 "postage" fee is added to the subscription. Phil

This story is often repeated, but is it true? You can read more here.

Do you suppose that thread is still on the internet somewhere, like on Wayback Machine?

Harrah's research library still exists at the National Automobile Museum in Reno. They kindly sent me copies of the files on their Metz restoration (though it took six or seven months). Wouldn't they have these books? When Harrah's collection was still ongoing, the mechanics would ask the librarian for literature on the car they were restoring, but they were never allowed to touch the original materials. It was only given to them in photocopied form. Phil

Hi. I used the bearing that was there, which seemed to fit. It wasn't rounded like like factory design. It didn't have a name on it. You best bet is to go to a bearing shop and get the closest one they have. Phil

I hope the AACA Library gets a hard copy so I can access it there. I wouldn't need the whole 2,000 page book.

Know the average age of a Hemmings reader? We were told a couple years ago at the AACA Convention by editor Richard Lentinello. It's 68. Phil

Sorry, I didn't see your post, Karl. I still have the patterns for the Hupmobile 20 intake manifold along with one or two actual castings. I'd donate the patterns to someplace where they could be accessible. I'm not sure if the Hupmobile Club would have a place for them. Phil

The engine accessories still being assembled. I'm replacing the rust-pitted nuts with new blackened ones. I filled the pitted ends of the coolant tubes with JB Weld. Phil

I returned the flywheel and clutch assembly to the engine today. I forgot the clutch had to be inserted before the engine is lowered, so had to remove it yet again. However, with all the accessories off, it only takes 5 minutes to lift it out. I believe the only practical way to remove the cone clutch assembly is to pull the engine, so I hope it works. The engine was tight from the rebuilding, but it cranks easier than I'd thought. I found the TDC mark on the flywheel is correct which means I have the flywheel bolt holes aligned correctly! The clutch withdraws smoothly with the pedal now. Next, to reassemble the engine compartment (magneto, manifolds, starter, etc.). I hope I remember where it all goes... Phil

I wouldn't worry about mailing $25 cash. Your buyer should have no problem getting US$ at a currency exchange office or bank.

I hope I do, Al! I got the flywheel back from the machine shop. As I said, they made a new bushing (called "flywheel bushing" by Overland). They used a standard C-shaped retaining clip to hold the bearing, but this rubbed the bearing surface. I substituted a spiral retaining ring which has a narrower O.D. My throw-out bearing slides over this ring slightly, as it did before. I think this will work. Phil The new Flywheel bushing is a press fit. The spiral retaining ring in place (plus another to show how it is made). Note that the upper bearing I.D. can slip over the ring. Total movement is about 5/16-3/8 inch.

The machine shop told me that the bearing base cannot be cut with a radius because the shell (outer race?) is not thick enough. He came up with a plan that uses a standard c-clip to retain the outer face of the bearing. I asked if a curved ring could be sandwiched behind the bearing, but there is only about 1/16-inch to spare. Of course, I could get a new bearing made to the original blueprint (above), but that would be expensive. I'll post photos when I get it back tomorrow. Phil

Where is the video?