MochetVelo

The Metz 4-cylinder engine (Models 22 & 25) was almost a twin to the Ford Model T power plants. Metz hired one of Ford's engineers to design it. The head gaskets are even interchangeable. The Metz is simpler to rebuild than a Ford in that it has no transmission attached, no spark coils, and no magneto/flywheel combo. The bottom line: get some Model T manuals from the suppliers or the MTFCA and you'll be on your way to rebuilding your Metz engine.

I purchased my 1911 Renault AX last year, but was unable to start it. Weirdly, it sucked strongly on the exhaust manifold. The valves looked fine, and the camshaft was set correctly. At any rate, I brought the engine to a rebuilder in Ohio. He told me one of the valve guides was broken, but we ended up going over the whole thing (new pistons, etc.). A year later, it's ready for re-installation. Here's a video the engine guy sent. Phil

Facebook has an option to click an "Is this still available?" button on their Marketplace. It is a spammer question, but I find a lot of regular people use this option.

Not sure what the Dodge Bros. used, Al. You can see the specs for the Overland 83 chain in my photo of the Ramsey box. Ramsey does have good customer service, so I suggest you give them the dimensions of your sprocket wheels (diam. + width + no. of teeth) to see what will fit. I do have extra chain, but no extra connection pins. Phil

My restored Auto-Lite generator needs a connection to the crankshaft. It originally used "silent chain," a very strong and slip-proof power drive. The downside: should the generator shaft seize, the robust chain will snap the end right off the shaft. That's exactly what occurred on my car. My English Overland friend David substituted a rubber V belt & pulleys for the drive, which makes sense. Of course, I'm going the original route with the chain. Because the generator will always turn with the engine, it must be connected to the 6 volt battery via the cut-out or it may overheat. Here's what I learned about Silent Chain. It's a positive drive with almost no lost motion. It can be used for camshaft and timing drives. It's ingenious design is composed of numerous stamped steel segments joined by swaged pins. There are many sizes of chain available. I got mine from Ramsey Products in NC. You can send them the dimensions and spacing of your sprocket wheels to get the size needed. I suggest you order a chain a few links longer than you need and cut it down. I made the error of ordering an 82-link chain, as specified in the factory drawings, if I recall correctly. Turned out I needed 84 links. In seeking to order the extra 2 links, I found they have a $104 minimum order. Luckily, I found a longer chain on eBay which I shortened (if anyone needs some, let me know!) The photos below show what to do. Cut the swaged ends off 2 link couplers with a grinding wheel. The pins can then be tapped out with a small screwdriver blade. There are two more shorter connector pins holding all the flat links together which just drop out. You then fasten the chain over the sprocket wheels (I used small clamps) and insert the new connecting pins. The special pin they supply is held in place with a washer and a cotter pin or a small roll pin. Be sure to request extra connect pins from Ramsey with your order, as they supply only one. If you need another pin, it will cost you $104! The chain can be uncoupled by removing this pin. Phil

My 1911 Renault AX was missing it's original carburetor (as many are). It's a strange Renault-made brass carb that's about 18 inches tall. I put up an internet wanted ad in PreWarCar.com and immediately got a response from France. I was half certain it was a scammer since he had just what I wanted, and this is a rare one. I sent the payment anyway and hoped for the best. Sure enough, it arrived and fits perfectly. Phil

If you click his name, you can send him a message.

I assume the guy was planning to stop the car from where he was standing.

This video addresses the Parsi ethnicity in India and its particular appreciation of old cars and motorcycles.

Are these "flare gaskets" just inserted into your tubing flares? Never heard of them. I see they're on eBay in various sizes according to the tubing O.D. When my flares leak, they usually turn out to be slightly mis-aligned.

I visited this museum last year... and before that in the '70s when it Bellm's Cars & Music of Yesterday. Starting in 1953, it was Horn's Cars of Yesterday. Bellm's was my favorite, as they had a lot of (sometimes) working mechanical organs, orchestrions, etc. It is a shadow of it's glory years, but still a fun place to visit and also right across the street from the Ringling Museum & gardens. Phil

Anyone interested in approx. 94 issues of Skinned Knuckles magazine? They're mostly from the 2000's, and in good condition. Asking Price: FREE (you pay Media Mail shipping). I also have a number of old HCCA Gazettes at the same price. Located in PA. Phil

My magneto also failed when installed after rebuilding. The impulse didn't click at all. I discovered that it must have accurate alignment with the connection to the engine or the impulse will not work.

Yes, this mag was on the car when I got it, and the engine ran well. I understand "regular" (no impulse) mag timing, but the impulse confuses me. Bosch says: "Bring No. 1 piston up to TDC of the compression stroke. Revolve the magneto armature backward until the contact points would be just about to open if the armature were revolving in the correct direction. Then securely lock the adjustment of the adjusting driving member." The 2-pin impulse connection allows only a 180-degree adjustment. Anyway, I'm working on it! Phil

Any tips for timing a magneto with an impulse drive? I have a 1910 Model 10 Buick with a Bosch DU4. I thought I'd timed correctly, but it's a non-starter right now. Mag & carb were recently rebuilt. Phil

Compressed air has been used for years to start big diesel and other engines. I believe the air is injected into the cylinders to get the crankshaft moving.

Here is my winch set-up. I plan to remove the battery for charging. The battery & box came from Autozone; the 5000 lb winch from Amazon. Phil

The Brooklyn Bridge is currently undergoing a $300M restoration and cleaning. Still holding up well, they say.

I got a Duralast 24DC-DL 12-volt Deep Cycle Marine battery at Autozone ($109 + $18 core fee) along with a battery box. It seems like it's powerful enough and not too pricey. The "24" designation indicates its dimensions. I'll post a photo of my installation. Phil

I plan to remove the battery from the trailer and put it on a maintainer (trickle charger) when it's not in use. Phil

I'm curious about the basic specs for a winch battery for occasional hobby use. As I say, I have a 5000 lb winch, so no super heavy-duty pulling. Twelve-volt batteries run from about $80 to $400+. It would be nice to be able to do about 4 pulls between charges. The trailer isn't hooked up enough to charge thru the tow vehicle. Phil

Any suggestions for a winch battery? I have a 12 volt, 5000 lb winch. Manual states "20Ah minimum" but I see little guidance anywhere online for what to buy. I plan to mount it inside the trailer and remove it for charging. Phil

I recently re-commenced my Overland restoration after working on a couple other cars. I replaced the refinished dashboard. Note the electric control box on the steering column which I have yet to re-wire. I also made a custom base for my Optima battery. You can still purchase the original-style "extra width" battery which is used in tractors, but I prefer the gel type. Phil

I have a new 24-foot trailer which came with only 4 tie-down rings. I plan to install e-track. My mostly pre-1915 cars vary widely in size. Track widths (to centers of tires) go from 30" up to 59-1/2". Any suggestions on where I should install the e-track? Phil

I've used a couple services successfully: UShip.com and FreightQuote.com. They both offer bids/quotes from multiple carriers to fit your needs. Phil