MochetVelo

There were several neat early gas stations in Philadelphia. Here is my favorite, an Atlantic station at 40th & Walnut, modeled after a Greek temple.

Here is a general question regarding differential fluid levels. I filled my Overland diff. about 1/3 with 600-wt oil. The level is just above the ring gear teeth and below the spider gear case. It would seem that this would lubricate all the gears without pushing oil out the axle tubes. Here's a photo. Any thoughts? Phil

My leaking coolant problem is solved thanks to a suggestion from my restorer friend Walter Higgins: Clean mating surfaces, then apply a 1/8" - 3/16" bead of Permatex 22071 "Water Pump & Thermostat Housing Gasket Maker" to one surface. Align the parts and press down the coolant elbow slightly to create about a 1/16" gap (do not tighten). Allow to set overnight, then tighten the joint. I refilled the radiator and ran the engine with no leaks. The Permatex is gray in color. Phil

I think the first car shown is a Metz 22 from about 1913.

I don't know about facebook videos, but it is easy to post YouTube videos here. Just copy and paste the link. Phil

It should work in differentials or transmissions, as in my video. It's definitely not prone to leakage. Should you ever wish to remove it, however, you may need to scoop it out. It doesn't seem to be affected by heat or any solvents I've tried. Phil

Corn Head grease does not liquefy with heat, but with agitation. I made a short video showing how it works (see below). The disadvantage is that it will not drain out because in its rest state, it is too thick. :

The best quality tires, according to the Model T guys, is Blockley. They are made in the usual places (Vietnam, I think), but to Blockley's specifications and using their molds. See their web page here. They are in the U.K., but they ship to the US pretty reasonably. I've ordered tubes, and they arrived quickly and of high quality. Phil

Does the Amphicar odometer turn when it's in the water?

I gent in Australia used rubber conveyor belt material (the type with canvas in the center). You buy a section the correct width and cut the circular pieces close to size, then stack them on your wheel. Then you can trim them right in the vehicle using a belt sander held firmly in place with angle iron or the like as the wheel turns.

Walt: Here is Gloria Swanson at the Roxy Theater. Same theater your seats came from? Phil

Great gift. Your daughter has patience!

A dealer I know ordered a container of vintage tires from Vietnam specially made using his molds. He had to return the entire shipment due to a missing DOT mark. The tires were not defective, but the mark is required by law.

The body, windscreen and wheels don't look like a Metz to me. It has a large bottom engine cover and a chain drive, both signs of a friction-drive car, however. Phil

That sounds logical, Terry. When I see close-up photos of these engines, I often see tell-tale coolant trails emerging from the elbow (see below). Phil

I think the camera makes the elbow look bent, but it is flat. I will try feeler gauges, however, and I might bring it to a machine shop. That is actually a new stainless elbow I had cast. I made an aluminum one previously (like the original) but it corroded quickly. Phil

My 1921 Peugeot engine has a cast coolant outlet/elbow on top. The mounting surface is flat and it's difficult to seal. The elbow mounts with two studs. I tried a gasket and also a high-temp polyurethane sealant. Any ideas on how to get this to seal? I see a hi-temp carbon buna-NB gasket material at McMaster-Carr. Phil

I couldn't get trailer coverage from my regular vintage car insurer (Hagerty) because it is not stored on my own property. I believe they do cover the car when I tow it, however (at least, I hope so!).

I assume aluminum is used to avoid rust, which would wear out your fiber wheel quickly. Snow blowers work the same way, but use a rubber wheel against an aluminum one (see photo). One Metz owner uses stacked rubber conveyor belting cut into rings instead of the cardboard. He trims it while in the car using a belt sander set-up. Phil

The "T" guys will tell you to dump the 2-part valves if you plan on touring your car. Can't you get the new valve heads ground to the size you need? I think most automotive machine shops could do that. Phil

The friction wheel (usually compressed cardboard) must be in line with the center of the drive plate (usually aluminum). As you noted, a miss-alignment will wear out your friction wheel quickly. The friction wheel usually rests close to the drive disc (about 1mm or so). Phil

From the 1913 Parts Catalog; probably no change in 1914, assuming your have a Model 22.

In my aluminum trailer, the frame is made of square tubing, so the stainless steel screws are unlikely to get wet and set up an electrolytic reaction. Phil

(re: fasteners used in aluminum) Interesting point. My trailer is aluminum, but the wood panels are attached with stainless steel screws. That's what I'm using to fasten down the e-track. The track won't actually touch the aluminum trailer frame, as it is screwed to the wood floor. I don't think electrolysis will be a problem so long as the fasteners don't get wet. I did the same thing 4 years ago on my aluminum F150, and no corrosion yet. Phil

I saw a similar setup at Hershey today. Looked like the e-tracks were spaced about 48" apart. The photo below is from mgtrailer.com.