MochetVelo

Now that I have my new trailer, I want to install e-track on the floor (it has 4 tie-down rings now). I'm wondering what spacing I should use. My cars wheels vary in width, but I thought I could install it a bit on the inside of the wheels. Phil

Thanks to Form MV-41 (signed by a mechanic at the trailer dealership), a notarized Certificate of Origin and a check to the Commonwealth of PA, I got my trailer license plate today. PA gives 10 days to have the trailer inspected, but that's another story! My next step is to actually pick up the trailer in Michigan. Phil

My license plate quest drags on. The PA title agency said the Certificate of Origin the dealer sent (like a title from the trailer manufacturer) would work as proof of ownership. Showing it to them, they said it required a notary seal, so I sent it back to Michigan for that. It was returned with the seal (stamp) on a separate piece of paper. This was rejected, so I Fedexed it back to Mich. for the third time. The dealer is in no rush and sends everything USPS which takes a week. This next time may work (maybe)... Phil

I ordered a case for my wife.

What is the advantage of synthetic rope over wire rope?

An interesting idea, Bill. Not sure if I can do this in Pennsylvania, however. I assume sales tax must be paid, for example. Phil

I called my car insurer (Hagerty) to insure my trailer, but they will only insure trailers that are parked on the owner's property or in an enclosed storage facility. I only wish I had parking at my house or access to a large storage garage! I called my regular car insurance company, and they insured the trailer without mention of storage. Phil

The title agency gave me Form MV-41 (Verification of Vehicle Identification Number) to send to the trailer dealer. A licensed mechanic fills in the VIN with their signature. They implied this might result in my obtaining a tag. We'll see!

This just in from PennDOT in reply to my query: Thank you for contacting PennDOT’s Driver and Vehicle Services. The trailer would not be permitted on roads in Pennsylvania with registration. You may be able to get an in-transit tag for the trailer. For information regarding those tags, please contact the Michigan Department of Transportation at 517-322-1460 or access their website at www.michigan.gov/mdot. Interesting situatiuon. Michigan does not issue temporary tags or transit tags, and PA won't give me tags until the trailer is in PA. Phil

The Michigan dealer replied to my inquiry about temporary MI tags: You must be a Michigan resident. Do you want me to mail all the Paperwork to you so you can get a temporary tag from Pennsylvania? You do have the right to transport a new purchased vehicle or trailer without a plate to its home state without any penalty.

I purchased a new car hauler in Michigan and plan to tow it back to PA. Trouble is, the dealer says I must register the trailer with the Michigan Secretary of State to get a license plate. To get a plate in PA, I must present the trailer at the tag place so they can verify the VIN. I don't want to spend weeks in Michigan to get a license plate I'll only need for the drive back to PA. Any suggestions?

Take your cars to AACA or marque club shows (there are several active Chevrolet, Olds and Ford clubs). No need to get your car judged unless you want. The payoff is meeting other owners with similar interests as well as picking up a lot of tips. Phil

Mark's Magneto Service in Colchester, CT did my Dixie mag. I was lucky that he had a magneto with good pot metal to rebuild. As you know, pot metal can deform, crack and even fall apart depending on the alloy. An Overland owner I know went so far as to re-machine from brass a new body for his Dixie magneto. Bosch mags did not have this problem, but the Splitdorfs are nicely designed aside from that! Phil

After some time, I'm back working on the Overland. I was onto other projects while awaiting a rebuilt "Dixie" magneto. This rebuild took about 18 months. The Dixie-brand magneto, made by Splitdorf, was an interesting design, perhaps to get around Bosch patents. My Overland, like many others, had an adapted Bosch magneto. The problem with the Dixie was the generous use of pot metal castings. The Bosch mags will fit, but require some cutting. Anyway, I sent 2 (what I thought were) good unrestored Dixies to the rebuilder and was told they were both junk. However, he said he might have a good one he could restore for me. It took a whilem, but it finally arrived. The photos show the two mags side-by-side with the front off the Dixie. Also, a photo of the Dixie in my Ovderland. You can see that the Dixie is rather more compact. Note the chunk cut off the left side of the Bosch to get it to fit in the Overland. Phil

Fred Simeone was a great proponent of automobile collecting and preservation. I've visited his museum numerous times, and he was approachable, enthusiastic and anxious to share his love of cars. Take a look at the Events page of his museum: https://simeonemuseum.org/events/. He may be gone, but he left us a lot. Phil

Maybe I should move this to the "Restorations" thread. I discovered today the engine is stuck (in neutral with clutch disengaged). Magneto turns freely and valves seem free; crank won't turn at all. I suppose the next step is to expose the timing gears. Perhaps this was the cause of the odd behavior. I suppose I'm lucky it wasn't running when this occurred. Phil

I'll try that to see what happens. This is a non-adjustable magneto, however. There is no spark control while the engine is running. Phil

I've sure looked at the timing a few times. I have the spark set at 8mm before TDC, as suggested in the Renault manual. It does behave as though the timing is off, however. Yesterday, I got one explosion, but it came out the carb. I also got two kickbacks. Phil

On this car, the wire to no. 1 cylinder is too short to reach no. 2. I keep looking at stuff like that, though! Phil

I agree; it's probably a simple problem. The "new" carburetor is actually the correct one for this car. It was just pure luck that I found one a couple weeks ago. I had a similar "no-start" problem with my 1911 Hupmobile. It took forever to get it started, and then it only ran for a short time. I finally brought it to a shop. The problem was two of the spark plug wires were reversed. Phil

I may have eliminated the question of the carburetor, as I replaced the Solex with an original Renault carburetor I was lucky to find. This is an original AX carb (or a very similar model), and it fits well. Anyway, the engine behave exactly as before. Not even a cough or sputter. It just seems like it is not gettig fuel. A test today might have brought me closer to the problem: With my friend's help, I cranked the engine with the muffler removed. Only a stubby tail pipe remains. But instead of air pressure coming out the tailpipe, we felt suction. The valves are seating and there is lash with the lifters, and they are sealing pretty good (I lapped them). It sounds like a leak between the exhaust and intake manifolds. My friend suggests I remove the carb, seat the two intake valves and blow compressed air in tailpipe, then check for air coming out of carburetor intake hole. Phil

I concluded your latter point as fuel was reaching the carb, but not the engine. This week, I got a correct original Renault carb and I am now working to install it. Phil

I've used the priming cups to no effect. Starting fluid sprayed into the carburetor intake also doesn't work (though I haven't tried it directly into the spark plug holes). The flywheel isn't accessible, so Renault has a special way to time the ignition: An access hole directly atop cylinder #1 allows a rod to drop onto the piston that is marked with TDC and 8mm before TDC, the latter being the spark. I used that to set the timing. The plugs are sparking just before TDC on the compression stroke, judging from the valves. With the carb removed, a hand on the intake manifold hole feels strong suction when cranking. With the carb screwed on, I get much lower suction on it's intake, however. I still think the carb is not sending gas to the engine. Wish I had a similar carb to test on the car. Phil

That Omnia article is very nice. Thanks for posting it. I actually found an original Renault carb which I may try to install in the AX. Meanwhile, I think the problem lies with my current carburetor, the Solex MV ("V" meaning vertical). The timing (ignition & valve) in the car is correct, in my opinion, with plenty of suction through the intake. I do not believe fuel is entering the engine, however. It's a simple carb, and I've cleaned it out, replaced gaskets, etc. After several cranks, the intake tube is completely dry and no smell of raw gas out the exhaust pipe. Phil

Nothing has been done to the engine since it ran a few weeks ago. The gas from then was drained when the car was shipped to me, and I refilled it with 1-year+ old non-ethanol fuel. It does act like the gas is bad, so I tried lighting some and it burned readily. However, I will try filling the bowl with some fresh gas ...if I can afford it! Phil