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1961 Mercury Meteor 800 restore


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Today I took apart the pinion part of the differential.  The pinion was really sloppy in the housing.  The bearings were pretty worn out.  I'm going to order a new ring and pinion, bearings, seals and whatever else I need to get the differential rebuilt.  I got the pinion housing all cleaned up and painted along with the yoke assembly.  Tomorrow I will be moving the frame in the garage and start working on it.  Moving right along.

 

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Today was a busy day for the Mercury.  Got the frame down loaded of the trailer.  I repainted the frame markings that were on the frame.  I used one of my computer programs to trace over the original marking pictures and cut stencils out on my vinyl cutter.  I then moved the body out and got the frame under the body.  The fun really got started when I got to start hanging parts back on the frame.  So nice to handle clean parts and not get dirty.  I have to get the axles pulled so I can get the bearing numbers for the carrier.  I will be getting the other lower control arm finished up this week and get that hung as well.  I need to get the springs blasted and painted so they will be ready too.  

 

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Thanks Paul.  Technology can be nice.  It's just some big old pieces left over from when I re-did the floors in the house.  That way I'm not laying or kneeling on hard concrete and I can set finished parts on it without them getting all scuffed up.  I did manage to pull the rest of the third member out of the differential and took it over to the neighbors to have it washed up.  Came out nice and clean.  No nasty 90w.  I hate that smell.  Can never seem to get rid of it once it's on you.  Have some more marking that I will have to add back once it gets painted.  This time I will use a paint pen since the surface isn't so smooth.  While taking it apart I did notice that the spider gear shaft was spinning inside the carrier housing after I removed the ring gear.  I looked it over and figured that it can't be since there is a roll pin in there to hold it.  Weeeeelllllllll, the roll pin is in two pieces and the shaft ends jacked up the carrier housing pretty bad.:angry:  So, anybody have an early style 9" carrier they are wanting to part with?

 

 

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I have the center section all painted up and re added the marking that was on it.  Looks pretty close.  Had to do that one by hand.  The casting is too bumpy to use a stencil.  I did manage to find a spool on the Bay for a good price.  Should be here in a week.  Once it arrives then I will verify the bearing sizes and put in the big order for all the new differential parts.  

 

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On ‎5‎/‎9‎/‎2016 at 4:02 PM, GARY F said:

WHAT is the purpose of the yellow & white marks?

 

The marks represented a specific spring p/n, so the guys/gals on the assembly line could quickly grab the correct springs based on the assembly instructions for a specific car.

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Thanks for the info on the springs Paul.  I managed to get the rear differential housing all cleaned up and painted.  Thank goodness, nasty, dirty stinky thing.  I started to receive parts for the third member rebuild.  I also got one of the upper control arms put together too.  Still making strides.  Have a few more little things for the front to buy and it will pretty much be done.  I think i'm going to set the engine in the frame so I can compress the springs when I'm ready to finish the front suspension.  It's pretty tight to get a spring compressor in the there.

 

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pehernan.  I'm using Rust Oleum professional type gloss black paint.  It comes in a spray can, qt or gallon.  It goes on shinny then after it cures out it turns a nice semi-gloss.  I didn't want it to be too shiny and not to flat.  After it dries it's pretty tough stuff.  The price is not bad either.

 

 

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Guest pehernan

Thank you,

I'm planning to start working on the frame of my 1936 Plymouth, hopefully in a month o so. It is good to have reference in what to used, since this is my first time doing this

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On 5/17/2016 at 7:12 AM, Laughing Coyote said:

pehernan.  I'm using Rust Oleum professional type gloss black paint.  It comes in a spray can, qt or gallon.  It goes on shinny then after it cures out it turns a nice semi-gloss.  I didn't want it to be too shiny and not to flat.  After it dries it's pretty tough stuff.  The price is not bad either.

 

 

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It looks really impressive for spray can paint or are you using a paint gun for your application?

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Bleach.  I used a spray gun and the oil based Rust Oleum for the frame.  The rest of the smaller pieces I used the spray can.  Has great coverage.  I also used ACE hardware's red oxide primer and coated it with a satin clear for the 3rd member.  It was an exact color as the original.  The satin clear gives it a nice sheen.  I put the upper control arm on today and painted the other one.  Also I got the other rear backing plate all torn down and just have to get it cleaned up and ready for paint and rebuild.

 

 

Edited by Laughing Coyote (see edit history)
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Time for another update on the old Merc.  I got all the pieces to rebuild the rear differential now.  The spool I got off of Ebay was the larger bearing and not the smaller one that I have.  I was still able to use it since the size of the spool is the same as mine I just put the two halves together and mounted the new ring gear and turned the ends on the lathe as one unit.  There was a lot of check and re checking on the set up to make sure it runs true before I started turning it.  It came out nice and the new bearings pressed on great.  I put it in the housing to check the run out and it was at .002".  Ford spec is .003".  I still have to adjust it and install the new pinion shaft and set everything.  I mocked up one of the spindles today to check it out.  I have my new rubber bumpers coming in the mail tomorrow so I can put them on.  I'm going to hold off on the spring install until I get ready to drop the engine in.  I don't want it to smash the new upper rubber stoppers while it sitting with just spring pressure on it.  I did notice that once I tighten up the nut on the upper ball joint that the hole for the cotter pin is going to be was past the nut and the pin wont engage the castle part of the nut.  I did keep one of the original nuts, but thru the other one out when I was tearing down the front end.  Had to make a new nut.  The ones that came with the ball joints are 1/8" too short and if I order a replacement I'm sure I would get the short one again.  Other than that still plugging away at it.

 

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I'm still making progress on the Mercury.  I have the rear axles all cleaned up and the new bearings installed and ready to go when it's time.  I also installed one of the pinion bearings on the pinion shaft.  I'm waiting for my neighbor to get back from his vacation so he can help me with the 3rd member.  Have to get all the pre-loads right.  I did manage to get the other side of the front suspension hung and the other spring painted.  My rubber bumpers came in and I installed them too.  Other than that the heat is coming.  Not looking forward to 106 next week.  

 

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Edited by Laughing Coyote (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress report:  I rolled the body out early today and finished cleaning the under side and sealing the seams that I removed the original sealer from.  It's all ready for the coating and some color.  The coating will go on next week.  I wonder why Ford used a teal green paint for the under side of the car???  I went to the auto parts store and picked up the front brake shoes and brake hoses.  I decided to get the front suspension all put together also.  I had time so I just kept on going.  Just have to assemble the wheel cylinders and put the shoes on.  I have new drums coming this week too.  It's actually starting to look like a car again.  The body looked so nice sitting up high on the dolly.  Even with the front clip removed and the body needing repair the style and lines of the body still looked nice or maybe it was from too much sun.:P

 

 

 

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Thanks Keiser.  I'm glad the under side is nice and solid too.  Saves me a bunch of work.  I did buy the front shocks today and installed them.  I forgot to get some brake fluid so I can rebuild the wheel cylinders and do the brakes.  I will pick some up Thursday when I'm in town again.

 

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As promised I coated the bottom of the body.  It was not to fun, but it's done.  Had to get up pretty early since it was going to be hot today.  Next weekend I should be ready to add some color to it and then I can go do the firewall next.  I also cleaned up the rear differential tag.

 

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Thanks, Paul.  The car actually had a greenish teal color painted on the bottom of the body then they sprayed a undercoating over the top of it.  Some areas were heavier than others and some not at all.  Mainly heavier in the wheel wells and areas of the pan where it would be protected from stuff flying off the tires like water, snow and road salt.  I'm sure they had guide lines on how it goes on.  I cleaned off all the old stuff.  Re seamed a lot of areas to and applied a bed coating to help protect it.  I wanted to paint it the body color so when the frame gets mounted to the body it makes the black frame and components stand out more.  Will show more detail and look cleaner that way.  The black would have made it all blend in.  I like things with detail and pop.:)

Edited by Laughing Coyote (see edit history)
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I've noticed a tar-type of undercoating at the front wheel wells on the main body of my 56 Fairlane. It's also painted over with the main color. There might be areas in the rear wheel wells coated and painted the same way. The coating looks a bit sloppily brushed on complete with brush strokes.

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Yes, Bleach.  It was a tar type substance on mine too, but it was sprayed on.  This weekend me and my neighbor are going to work the 3rd member and get it all set up. Once it's ready then I will put the rear end all together and set it aside until I'm ready for that step.  It's been pretty wet around here since the monsoons's have arrived.  I guess I can rebuild the wheel cylinders, brakes, wheel hubs and install the new drums also this weekend.  Happy 4th everyone!

 

 

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