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1961 Mercury Meteor 800 restore


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That's ok DJ. It seems that you can find just about everything for the older ones up to 1959 and from 1962 and up. 1960 and 1961 IMO have been harder to find parts for. Yes it's a little toasty out here. It was 115. 

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Thanks Chris. Today I got the wiring all cleaned up and worked on a few little things. Still hot as heck. I didn't like the "new" look of the battery and I know I can buy a NOS battery for about $300 of more, but I decided to make a decal and just paint the top satin black. I taped the vent openings so not to get any paint in them. Just enough to make the white lettering disappear on the caps. I think it looks better. It has a more toned down look.

 

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I was thinking the same thing Bleach. The only thing is that the old style caps  screwed in and these new caps pop in. I will have to do some research on it and see what I can dig up. Or I can see if the screw type are larger on the threaded end and turn them down on the lathe and put an O ring groove in it. Then I can use an O ring to secure it inside the battery. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I thought I would give an update on the Merc project. I was having issues with the generator so I went a head and ordered a new one. Since just about everything else is new I decided I might as well. I have been buried with work so I haven't much time and the weather has been hot and sticky. Just don't feel like doing to much after working all day in it. Once I get the generator I will get back on it. By that time I should have a little break in my work load (I hope).

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  • 3 weeks later...

Still waiting for the generator. If it doesn't ship out soon I will just get my money back and buy the fields and armature and rebuild it. Would cost more, but I will have it. I'm getting antsy.

 

In January I met with my eye doctor for my annual eye check up and we got to discussing cars and he is in the process of rebuilding a DKM Macho Trans Am. He wanted to know if I could replicate the emblem that goes into the center of the steering wheel since they are not available.  After some designing on the computer and getting all the cut paths set for the mini mill I was ready to get one made. After about 4 1/2 hours of machining with a .020mm engraving tip end mill it was done. Good thing it's a cnc mill. Just let it run. I milled into solid brass and it's only 1 1/2" in diameter. Now all I have to do is back fill it with the colors and add clear coat and it's finished. I attached a link about the history of DKM.

 

http://machoz28prototype.wixsite.com/dkm-cars

 

 

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Thanks Guys. Luv2Wrench. The mill is a Taig CNC mini mill. It works great to make small parts with complex curves and cuts. The design program is Vectric and it's very user friendly to use. They offer various types of design software. There is even a 3D program so you could make 3D parts. Once the part is designed you select the cut paths and it converts it into G code. You use Mach 3 software as the cutting software for the mill. I've made several detailed parts with it.

http://www.taigtools.com/mmill.html

http://www.vectric.com/

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well it's been a while for an update so here is what's going on at the moment.  I got tired of waiting for the generator after a month. The company kept pushing the delivery date out farther and farther. I canceled the order and ordered the new fields, armature, bearings, and brushes. Should be here next week. Going to purchase a new regulator as well so I can cross it off the list.  I also received the steering cylinder hoses.  I still have to put them on.  Other than that nothing to exciting. :( 

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  • 2 months later...

Wow, it's been awhile since I posted any information on the Merc project. My business has been crazy busy for the last 2 months. As it stands right now I have the generator rebuilt, and installed. The voltage regulator is installed. I was able to run the car and get it to move under it's own power. I still have to tweak the carb settings a bit more, but as of right now it runs pretty nice. I do have one issue that is giving me a hard time. I have all new brake shoes, hardware, brake cylinders, master cylinder, and the booster has been rebuilt also. The lines have been cleaned and free of debris.The problem is that I have very little pedal travel and the brakes don't stop the car, it just slows it. I have moved the car under power back and forth for about 20 feet then apply the brakes. They are just hard to push. I checked the brake shoes with the drum off and they move outward and return. They are not set to tight, they turn freely. I don't know what else it can be. Has anyone ever had an issue like this???:wacko:  

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I think it may be a problem with your power brake booster. I did a fair amount of driving in a 67 Ford back when they were new and the pedal travel was not the same as with a manual brake car. Without the boost the car will stop, but with a longer distance for sure. Of course I'm assuming that the brake lines have been bled properly.

Good luck finding the problem. You are doing a great job on your restoration.

Lew Bachman

1957 Colonial White Thunderbird

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After looking over the repair manual I had a voice tell me to pull the vent and tube assy off the back of the booster. I did that and the vacuum line from inside the booster came undone that hooks up to it. I had to take the booster apart to reinstall the hose. It was acting like a big vacuum leak. I bet it will run better too. I still have a hard pedal, but I will have to run it again to see what kind of results I get with the booster repaired. Yes Lew, the lines all have been bled. Thanks for the input. 

Aren't old cars fun?:angry:

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To test the booster, sit in the car, motor off. press and hold the brake pedal down. start the car and the pedal should go down a bit if the booster is good. if not back to the booster for repair.

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I have been pulling tires and drums and re checking everything again to make sure that there isn't anything weird going on with the brakes. I'm sure the vacuum line inside the booster was the problem. I thought it was strange that I could never get the vacuum over 10 on the gauge when the car was running. You can see in the print where the line is at inside. It hooks up the the air cleaner "T" fitting on the back plate. I have full travel to the floor now, but I still have to re bleed the lines and go from there. I hope it's fixed.

 

 

 

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Victory!:D The vacuum hose that came off inside the booster was the issue. I feel much safer double checking all the brakes, hardware and lines. I now have brakes. Had the car out today and it ran sooooo  much better, smoother, and had better acceleration. I now have 20 lbs of vacuum. I actually was able to drive it up and down the side street. It was a great feeling. You just hit the gas pedal down and it just takes off. The feel of old horsepower. Now I have to get the power steering belt hooked up and get that working and  make sure there aren't any leaks. Then the front end alignment and the body work begins. Got to get moving on it again.

 

Edited by Laughing Coyote (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Haven't had much time back on the car, but hoping with the holidays coming up that work will ease up. I do have some final adjustments to do with the transmission (pressures and linkage adjustment) and get the power steering hooked back up. I did manage to get it filled and no leaks, but when it gets pressurized it going to be a different story. I looked at my thread start date and it's 4 years today that I've been working at it. My how time flies.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I took some time off today and worked on the car. The transmission pressures have been adjusted and the power steering is all hooked up and works nice. So much easier to steer.  I'm going to drop off some sheet metal parts to the powder coaters so they can plastic media blast them. 

 

Edited by Laughing Coyote (see edit history)
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On 11/3/2017 at 8:33 PM, Laughing Coyote said:

Haven't had much time back on the car, but hoping with the holidays coming up that work will ease up. I do have some final adjustments to do with the transmission (pressures and linkage adjustment) and get the power steering hooked back up. I did manage to get it filled and no leaks, but when it gets pressurized it going to be a different story. I looked at my thread start date and it's 4 years today that I've been working at it. My how time flies.

 

It doesn't seem like 4 years but I can tell you I've enjoyed every update so it has been a fun 4 years.  Thanks for letting us tag along on your journey!!

 

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Thanks for the comment Jeff. I hope everyone had a good Turkey day. As for an update, I stopped by the powdercoater and picked up the front filler panel and the trunk rear finish panel. I had them blast the filler panel with the AO media and used the plastic media on the trunk panel. I just took off the paint and left the red oxide primer. I didn't want them to blast it with the AO stuff and have it generate to much heat and warp it, it's a cast part. I also dropped off the rear corner finish panels while I was there. They too are the cast material. I wet sanded the trunk finish panel to remove the primer so I can look it over. I will be applying new primer and using glazing putty afterwards to fill any small scratches and pits before I do another coat of primer. The front filler panel will get a coat of primer and maybe some paint. The weather has been unseasonably warm so I best take advantage of it and start getting the body work going.

 

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I have the rear trunk trim piece almost ready for paint. I fixed all the little dings and scratches that were in it. I wet sanded and primed it several times to make sure it's nice. I just have to wet sand it with some 1500 and do the final primer sealer coat. I will be working the front piece next and then I guess start working on the rockers. The passenger side has a area that needs some work. I will post pictures on that when I start. 

 

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Picked up my outer rear trim panels from the powder coater. They look good. I will start to get them ready for primer and set them aside for later when I get to the painting step. I managed to work on the front filler panel today. I still have to do some final sanding and it will be ready for paint. I still have paint left over from the fire wall so I will shoot it when i'm done with the prep work.

 

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Broke off from work early today and decided to get the front panel painted. Did all the final sanding and priming yesterday. Now if the weather is decent tomorrow and I get the honey do list done quick enough I will start on some rocker dent repair.

 

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I did get some time in to work on the car. The rocker was caved in pretty good. it was covered in the old green/grey bondo. Once it was cleaned up I used a stud gun my friend let me borrow for the project. Works pretty cool. It spot welds a metal pin to the metal and then you put the slide hammer on it and bang it out. A lot of the damage came out. Not to much left to do. May have to use some filler on it, but not a 1/4" thick. The body guys that worked on it before just punched a hole thru the sheet metal under the door threshold and pounded out they could and covered it up. So I will have to patch that hole too.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Haven't had a chance to do anything on the car. It's that holiday rush and I've been buried with orders. Of course there has to be "can I get it for Christmas" orders on top as well. After doing some of the repair work on the rocker panel and pulled the car in the garage I kept smelling gas. So after looking it over I found out that where the sending unit goes into the tank it has been leaking. I'm hoping it's just the seal for the sender and not a leaky new tank. Oh, and the new sender isn't working either. The fuel gauge hasn't been registering so I put in a NOS one and still nothing. I did some research and checked the voltage from the gauge voltage regulator and it's fine. Have power up to the sender too. So now I have to drain the tank, pull the sender and find out what's going on. Then reinstall all over again. Oh the joys of automobiles. I'm hoping after the rush I can have a few days to work on my car again.

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Roger, the schematic shows a small ground symbol to the tank, but when I was dis assembling the car there were no signs of a ground wire nor where there any signs of a ground to the chassis. Not sure how they grounded the fuel tank. I know the tank straps had a webbing material on them as not to rub thru the tank so that would not be a good ground. I just don't want to drill a hole thru the corner flange and bolt a wire. That wouldn't look correct. I didn't see anything on the old tank either. :unsure:

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1 hour ago, Laughing Coyote said:

Roger, the schematic shows a small ground symbol to the tank, but when I was dis assembling the car there were no signs of a ground wire nor where there any signs of a ground to the chassis. Not sure how they grounded the fuel tank. I know the tank straps had a webbing material on them as not to rub thru the tank so that would not be a good ground. I just don't want to drill a hole thru the corner flange and bolt a wire. That wouldn't look correct. I didn't see anything on the old tank either. :unsure:

Might have had a ground clip between the fuel outlet and fuel line bridging the rubber connection as a Chrysler product of the era had....

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The fuel sender is attached with screws to the tank. A wire end under one screw and the other end of the wire attached to the body or frame will be enough. The ground was maybe done between the upper half of the tank and the trunk floor; usually there is not much paint in this area from the factory. During a restoration, people (me included) are painting the floor with more paint to avoid  the rust.

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