Steve9 Posted May 8, 2022 Share Posted May 8, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said: Hey Steve, how's it going ? Well this is certainly a different type of bonnet support. So this support basically holds it from near the firewall and the front just hangs there ? Looking interesting I must say. Hi Ian, This support is very simple. Just holds the hood up and when done, folds down and locks into its saddle. Perfect for the non Ford group. And after many years of service replacement rubber tips are available too. Edited May 8, 2022 by Steve9 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted May 10, 2022 Share Posted May 10, 2022 Could you not fit four? Two front and two rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 28, 2022 Author Share Posted May 28, 2022 Still thinking about the bonnet holds........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 28, 2022 Author Share Posted May 28, 2022 While I'm waiting for the Upholsterer to getr back to me I decided to sort out the sun visors. Got all the compoents together, 19 in total, to complete the assembly. Rechecked the fit of the header panel and made sure the wiper pull button also fitted. Punched starter holes in the Header Panel and bolted in place one of the holder brackets. When I put the arm on ( afetr filing down so it would fit ) found it was upside down ( rookie error ). Got it round the right way and attached the actual sunvisor. Again found that due to the chroming the internal hole had to be filed as well. I used a brass washer and stainless steel spring washer on the back of each holder to give it some extra grip. Got one done and then moved onto the next one. All seemed to go ahead pretty well. Even the holder that has a hairline crack in it went on without any issues. The only thing I did find is that there are two different size heads on the screws for the supporting arms and holders. The holders are larger heads than the supporting arms. Next step is to mount in the car which I'll attempt later on. CVheers Ian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 Hey Ian, can you help me with a question I have on my 34 PE. How much gap is there typically between the steel toe board section and the top of the trans crossmember? Also, I was told by a friend the wooden floor board isn’t a constant cross section and I need to taper mine. Mine seems to be really close though. I highlighted the two areas here, the one shows the tight fit and the other shows my wood having a gap. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 Do you have any pictures of the free wheeling cable and how they ran them. It seems to go between trans and lower crossmember but which side of steering column and did it attach anywhere in engine compartment. Seems like it will flop around and scratch everything up. I already scratched my freshly painted steering column lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve9 Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 On 5/28/2022 at 4:34 PM, Ian_Greenlaw said: Still thinking about the bonnet holds........ If you’re not sure about the hood props you can contact Robert’s Motor Parts. sales@robertsmotorparts.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 30, 2022 Author Share Posted May 30, 2022 I'll check it out when I get home. My floor board wasn't tapered.....I know as I had the original one and made mine to match....Its in my thread here somewhere ( after the AACA merged my two stories everything got shuffled together ). There is a bit in the middle from memory that had to be routed down a bit to allow for the top of the transmission case. The freewheeling cable I had remade and is really stiff ( can't bend much ). Again when I get home I'll have a look as I know exactly where it goes as I can remember it wore a grove from the vibration in a crossmember and you can see in indentation. I'll see if I can get a photo of that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 30, 2022 Author Share Posted May 30, 2022 Page 6 of the this thread you can see both top and bottom of the board ( I knew it was there somewhere !! ). You'll also see the routed out bit to stop the top of the transmission case hitting it. The large hole is for access to the battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 30, 2022 Author Share Posted May 30, 2022 Page 7 gives a lot more detail as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 Hey Ian. Thanks for the reply. My crossmember also has a deep grove wore in it from the original cable. The other issue I am having is routing the battery cable to the starter around the pedals. It seems no matter what I do it will rub on something. Beautiful car and thanks for taking the time to do this write up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 I redid my battery cables and fed them through the chassis frame so they are basically hidden as much as possible. Remember mine is a right hand drive and my pedals are no where near the battery cables. Finally a benefit of a RHD car !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 Ha that’s funny. I tried that on mine and the cable isn’t long enough so might need to make longer ones then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 Yeah, I had new ones made so they would fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 16 hours ago, rageracing said: Do you have any pictures of the free wheeling cable and how they ran them. It seems to go between trans and lower crossmember but which side of steering column and did it attach anywhere in engine compartment. Seems like it will flop around and scratch everything up. I already scratched my freshly painted steering column lol On the 1933 US version of the Plymouth, the freewheeling cable has a clamp that attaches to the spool valve that is on the top of the automatic clutch assembly. That keeps the cable from vibrating or moving around. I suspect the 1934 Dodge would be similar. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 Okay, So I tried to take photos of the freewheeling cable where it leaves the firewall. Mine isn't anchored down yet but given that it didn't move around much. It then disappearsunder the car but sits on top of the brake line ( theres a rubber cover to protect the brake line ). It then goes past the flywheel cover where you can see the indentations where it rubbed many years ago. The on top of the crossmember.....( wore a grove in the crossmember from memory ) then onto a holder that bolts to the side of the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 The second thing was the gap between the toe board and the crossmember. Let me know if I got it wrong. I put my hand up and I could barely get my finger between the two. I've attached a few shots so hopefully this may show you what youre after. If not, let me know. Your crossmember looks a little different to mine. Last shot shows where I'm running my battery leads. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 On 4/10/2022 at 4:54 AM, Ian_Greenlaw said: Hey all, Well I'm back and spending quite a bit of time of the car now so hopefully not far off finishing. First job off the rank - Accelerator return spring. I've noticed on a number of cars ( left hand drive dodges ) that there is an accelerator return spring located on the linkage assembly. Some cars don't have one. As the linkage set up on mine is different ( right hand drive ) I had to come up with something. So I found a little bracket which had the exact hole size I was after. I ordered in a fairly hefty accelerator return spring and using some padded 3M tape around ther linkage I got the spring in place and it seems to work quite well. Only thing I'm not sure is how to attach the accelerator pedal to the ball type fittings ( 3 of them ) protruding from the floor and the linkage. I tried some slippery stuff but I have to really force it which I wasn't too keen on. Suggestions ???? Anyhow, I back to it and making good progress. Cheers Ian I too need to hook a return spring up to the carb. When I bought the car there was a spring that went down to a tab bolted to the oil pump housing cover. The spring laid directly over the manifold which seemed wrong. Do you know the correct way for the US based cars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 Go back a page on this thread to April 10th. The first 3 photos in this post are what I believe is the correct return spring for Left Hand Drive Cars. How you get that return spring over the linkage bar and then tortioned is beyond me. The other photos on the same date are various options I have found over time. I think what you have ( bolted to the oil pump housing cover ) doesn't sound right and is probably a mock up as often the spring in my photos would break and it was too difficult to replace them so they opted for a quicker repair option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiminyfixit Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 On 5/8/2022 at 10:31 AM, Steve9 said: Hi Ian, This support is very simple. Just holds the hood up and when done, folds down and locks into its saddle. Perfect for the non Ford group. And after many years of service replacement rubber tips are available too. I ordered 2 of these brackets, but they are out of stock until mid summer. Bummer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted June 4, 2022 Share Posted June 4, 2022 Any source for brake pedal bushing? I just realized how sloppy mine is. It rubs the floor board Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 Is that the sleeve that goes on the brake pedal shaft ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 Finally got a full half day to work on the brakes. Nothing coming through the lines so I assume the master cylinder has locked up. Just in case I bought a new one. We pulled the old one out and it was jammed tight. Rather than waste time trying to repair it ( which I'll do later ) we installed the new one and reattached the fittings. Bled the brakes all around and the colour of the fluid wasn't pretty ! By the time we finished the fluid was clear. Checked around the car and brake fluid was running out from inside the front brake backing plate. Did a quick 30 minute disassemble of everything and found that the piston in the brake cylinder had locked up........but I just did these not long ago !!! Freed it up and removed everything and repolished the pistons. Reinstalled and everything seems to look ok now. I'll check later this evening. This begs the next question....should in disassemble the remaining 3 or not ??? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 19 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said: Finally got a full half day to work on the brakes. Nothing coming through the lines so I assume the master cylinder has locked up. Just in case I bought a new one. We pulled the old one out and it was jammed tight. Rather than waste time trying to repair it ( which I'll do later ) we installed the new one and reattached the fittings. Bled the brakes all around and the colour of the fluid wasn't pretty ! By the time we finished the fluid was clear. Checked around the car and brake fluid was running out from inside the front brake backing plate. Did a quick 30 minute disassemble of everything and found that the piston in the brake cylinder had locked up........but I just did these not long ago !!! Freed it up and removed everything and repolished the pistons. Reinstalled and everything seems to look ok now. I'll check later this evening. This begs the next question....should in disassemble the remaining 3 or not ??? Being an ex-brake mechanic, I would say yes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiminyfixit Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 9 hours ago, keiser31 said: Being an ex-brake mechanic, I would say yes. I feel your pain Ian. I just went through this process a week ago & had similar issues. All the wheel cylinders & master cylinder were toast. The brake shoes were unable to release & locked up a couple of the drums. One of the new wheel cylinders had a leak, along with all the banjo fittings, I.E. copper crush washers. I finally stopped the leaking with 85 Ft. Lbs. on the torque wrench. Another issue, which was due to the lack of services in my area, was drum turning. The only close-by source was an auto parts store who was skilled in disc brake turning, but not drum turning. The 2 drums I dropped off may wind up being scrap. After I found the correct puller for the rear drums, The fellow said to bring them in early on Sunday morning before it got busy. As I looked over his shoulder & saw him struggling to get the drums "centered", my machinist background "spidey sense" kicked in as I noticed he was trying to do so using the outside edges of the drum. I mentioned he might have more success if he used the inside of the drum, since that is the part the shoes use. Well, after adjusting the brakes, (we all know how fussy that is with old Mopars), I was able to get a smooth rubbing on the rear, but the front rub intermittently. I hope I don't have a bouncey brake pedal. Test drive to follow after I get the starter & generator back from an amazing source. This guy is in his 80's with his first job, at 16, learning how to rebuild, you guessed it, starters & generators & he has been doing this ever since. He has all the old style testing equipment & is very fussy. Should be picking them up today. He is also a great source for other vintage DPCD services. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 The copper crush washers on the banjo fittings......I've got rid of the lot of mine after talking to another member on this forum. He put me on to an aluminium washer with a neoprene ( I think ) insert. If you go back on my forum you'll see my pictures of them. Now there are two sizes for the 34's ( inner and outer ) and you use a fraction of the force and guess what.....not a drip in sight. And not expensive in the States either. Do yourself a favour...replace them with these.....you won't regret it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 Keiser........was thinking about this last night and you're dead right. I'll check all of them out. I'll let you know what I find. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 Goodridge SS902-12 Stat-O-Seal Sealing Washers, -8 AN (speedwaymotors.com)] Not sure about the math for AN to inches. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 (edited) 5 minutes ago, JACK M said: Goodridge SS902-12 Stat-O-Seal Sealing Washers, -8 AN (speedwaymotors.com)] Not sure about the math for AN to inches. These are what I used on my 1931 Dodge banjo fittings. Not a single sign of a leak. Edited June 7, 2022 by keiser31 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted June 8, 2022 Author Share Posted June 8, 2022 Yep they're the little buggers. Do em up and no leaks. Really happy with them so far !!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted June 21, 2022 Author Share Posted June 21, 2022 Just in the process of removing the brake cylinders and cleaning them up so I'll let you know how it goes. Question......this may seem a bit obvious but here goes. I was sitting in my car the other day pondering life in general and looked at the door and thought.....how do you shut the door ? By that I mean you can either grab the door handle ( or window winder handle ) and pull the door shut or put your grubby mits on the garnish molds and pull it shut. Anyone else thought of this as all the sales brochures I have don't have a door pull as such. Anyhow.....something to think about. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlymouthPE Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 Problem was addressed in 1935 when door pull was added at least for the front door which was now hinged to the A pillar. Rear door remained without pull and still hinged to the C pillar. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted June 28, 2022 Author Share Posted June 28, 2022 Finished stripping all the brakes down, repolished the pistons and cleaned everything. A couple of the pistons had locked up so I'm glad I did them all ( thankyou to Keiser for your input to do them all ). Reassembled and readjusted the brakes so my brother is coming over on Thursday to help adjust the brakes. Almost to a point ( after tightening a few steering bolts ) to restart the engine and take her our for a test run ! I realise I'm getting closer to the finish line so I contacted the Tyre people. The tyres I'm after are out of stock ( Firestone Whitewall ) and the manufacturer hasn't done a production run yet so they said they wouldn't have them until November / December ( now these are $450 AUD per tyre ! ). He did say they are expecting a shipment of a limited run of the same style of tyres from a manufacturer...Auburn. These look exactly like a Bias Ply tyre but are actually a Radial Tyre........unfortunately the price of these little gems is AUD$620 per tyre. I've contacted a few people and they basically said that the people I deal with have the distribution rights in Australia.....benefit of being land locked I guess. The guy at the shop said to give him a call later in the week and when they come in I can go and have a look. Remember too that I need 6 of these as I have one in each guard. For that price I think I'll leave the tyre covers off so you can see the nice new tyres. I spoke to them about my car and they suggested the 650.16 would fill the guards in nicely but I may have to get 2 of the 600.16 for the spares in the guards if the 650's don't not fit. I'm going to get one tyre done at a time ( transport reasons in my car ) and that way I can test and see how they look. Still waiting for the upholsterer to get back to me with the one panel I need remade ( Its been 3 weeks and people just don't get back to you !!! ) Getting there ! Cheers Ian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 That sounds very exciting getting it ready for a test drive. My white walls were $650 each from memory. Plus tubes and liners. The wheels on my car were the single most expensive part of the car. 6 wheels cost me just under 10k.That was with me doing everything on them. I didn’t want to cover them up for the exact same reason. They look really nice on the car though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted June 29, 2022 Author Share Posted June 29, 2022 Yours looks stunning Matt ! I'm getting excited but now looking down the barrel of having Knee surgery.............I'm falling apart !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted July 8, 2022 Author Share Posted July 8, 2022 Crappy day so I thought I'd do a cleanup and hubcap sort out day. Since we were doing a small reno in the house and everything had to be moved, it was a perfect time to get all my final bits and pieces sorted and in the one place. Funny after all this time I still remember where everything goes.....suprising to me too ! Found I have about 12 various glass brake light lenses....a lot from other years I bought incase I couldn't find original 34 Dodge ones. Got all my sill ( new ) covers ready, painted rims, RAM mascot, front door handles, horns, complete spare wheen set ups x 2 etc.... Sorted my hubcaps out. I have 4 new skins mounted to caps and 2 skins which I'll mount to the spare wheel locking hubcap backing plate. These hubcaps don't have the raised pleats where the arrows are after the word Dodge so I have had to heat them up and gently tap that part to a slight curve so the skins will fit nicely on. I also have 6 restored original caps ( which are good ) but not as good as the new ones. I have two locking hubcaps from another year maybe 35 or 36. At this stage I'll probably go with the new caps as these are almost perfect and look the part. I may not drill a hole in the ones that are the locking caps just so all 6 look the same. Also if I do end up using the locks they will go in the original caps. I'll try and source two more locks but they are not easy to find. The new caps also have the word Dodge already blackened out so that will also save me some time. I've taken a few pics to have a look at. Just got off the phone to the tyre people and they are still in quarantine. Maybe next week ! Cheers Ian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted July 8, 2022 Share Posted July 8, 2022 Hi Ian, Were did you get the skins made? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 Hi Alan, Replica Manufacturing in New Zealand 156 New York Street Martinborough New Zealand dave.patten.wise.net.nz Here's a direct link : https://www.replicahubcaps.co.nz/ Actually, its worth just browsing his site and having a look at what he does. Some of the skins are amazing ! Cheers Ian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 Oh, One thing, he may not get back to you straight away ( bit hit and miss ).....but he will eventually get back to you 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiminyfixit Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 On 4/12/2022 at 10:56 PM, Ian_Greenlaw said: Well looks like some force is warranted. Thanks heaps for the advice. I'll do the top one first as suggested ! Wish me luck... Top one first, then line up the 2 on the bottom & use your foot. They snap right in. I used a little silicone grease on all 3 balls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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