Guest Bob Call Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I stumbled on this site for a siezed engine release fluid. Has anyone used or know anything about this product?Seized engine problem? Engine Release works, or your money back! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick60 Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I tried it on a stuck 352 Ford FE. The engine was allowed to soak for several months. It didn't work. I eventually used a hammer and brass drift to remove the pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldren Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I used Blaster from Advance Auto parts store. Put asmall amount in each cyclinder on a 42 Mercury that set 45 years. In three days I was cranking it with the starter. It sells by the gallon and has been very good on bolts and nuts on my 42 Continental that this V8 is in. Lee Waldren Fort Myers, Fl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Hearn Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 ATF and kerosene work well (50/50 mixture), some people add Marvel Mystery Oil with (each mixed in 1/3rds). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mochet Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I tried it on a single-cylinder engine, but the piston was at TDC, so there was little space to squirt the fluid. I did like their idea of using an impact driver on the crank to get it free. I think any "stuck-bolt" fluid (Kroil, PB Blaster, etc.) would do the same thing for less money.Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Al Brass Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I have found a mix of ATF and diesel is the ultimate fluid weapon for this job.Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noncompos Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Ag engines, often on equipment that sits unused for a good part of the year, seem particularly susceptible to sticking, often seriously, to say nothing re' an antique tractor that's been sitting along the fenceline or in the woods for fourty years...Searching the Ag forums like ytmag or the tractor/old car truck forums on smokstak will bring up dozens, if not hundreds, of favorite recipes for soaking and/or tapping engines loose...On old engines, where internal parts might be expensive if available at all, delicacy is sometimes better than excessive enthusiasm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlK Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 WHITE DISTILLED VINEGAR in each cylinder. Engine will turn within 24 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest R-ajax peterson Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 "excessive enthusiasm"............ LOL sounds like a defense attorney phrase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kaycee Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Have any of you tried a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf on stuck engines, and would it damage babbit bearings or aluminum pistons? kaycee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Have any of you tried a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf on stuck engines, and would it damage babbit bearings or aluminum pistons? kayceeYesNo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest prs519 Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 John, I was amazed at what a acetone10-atf90 mixture did on seized brake drum, so I bet it would work great! I dare say it would not influence babbitt, either. That is not professional advise, however. Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 Years ago I read of an English collector who was lucky enough to find an engine for a very rare car he was restoring. Unfortunately it had sat in the open for years with no hood or air filter.He was overjoyed when he took it apart to find someone had poured a can of paint down the carburetor. The hardened paint sealed the engine, keeping out water and preventing rust.Wonder how you would go about freeing that one? Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 Hey Rusty, How-bout paint stripper, after letting it work use an air gun with a solvent. The white vinegar make's sense with aluminium pistons and potmetal, it'll eat the corosion, the condition of the remaining piston present's a question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B campbell Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 I watched Corburn Benson use a Stanley steam car on a old tractor that had been sitting out in a field for years,it didn't take to long at all,he just hooked up a line to the engine block in the tractor and let it fill with hot steam once the block heated up they got the crank to turn.I'll PM him and will see if he can add anything to this tread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 Yes Bill that worked real good,,The tractor had close fitting iron pistons,,,alloy pistons need more clearence than iron, so heating cooling is more effective on alloy piston engines,, I'LL get back and write more later,,,this comment will help me find thread,,Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 All these methods work only on lightly seized engines. Any engine cylinder with considerable rust will need to come apart. I have had old stationary, tractor, auto, and industrial, engines that mice have had a field day in, and mouse urine is not kind to old iron. One that comes to mind was a McCormick - Deering 10-20. The mouse urine reacted with the iron piston and weakend it to the point that two wacks with a piece of hard wood, and hammer, and the top of the piston fell in. It turned the heavy cast to a weak gray color that you could break apart with your fingers sort of like breaking a Hersheys chocolate bar up, only softer. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B campbell Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 I never tried this on a car engine but it works good on motorcycle engines ( H.D's1929 and before I.O.E engine's) after you disassemble the motor is to take out the top motor mount stud and pump grease into it, it will push the piston out,works the same as getting the pilot bushing out off the flywheel just more grease.I also have to agree with Dandy Dave about the mouse **** as I have beat piston's out with a block only to have it break up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 Be careful,,,the forces generated with greese gun are enormous,,,,get it out,,but can wreck barrell in the process,,,,If you think ,001 press fit vs,,,, ,001 clearence,,,,wow,, Add heat,,,,Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durant Mike Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 I used engine release on my Continental Durant motor that had not been run since the late 1960's. The engine was seized and would not budge. Used Redlead ( mixture used to clean gun bores) transmission fluid, Marvel Mystery Oil etc and nothing would work. Bought 3 cans of Engine Release, followed directions and waiting the appropriate time, and darn if the engine turned right over with a hand crank. Found I had two cylinders with water in them that had caused the engine to freeze. I for one swear by it that it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Boudway Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Hi,I tried ATF and blaster, but no luck.Next will be citric acid.I'll keep you posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim_Edwards Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Hi,I tried ATF and blaster, but no luck.Next will be citric acid.I'll keep you posted.Pour CLR into each cylinder and let it sit overnight, should bust the rust ridge and free the engine. CLR won't damage anything!No need to worry about bore damage from any of these methods of busting the rust ridge because being stuck will almost always signal the need for a boring job and probably new pistons if boring goes beyond using oversize rings to make up for greater diameter cylinder bores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Cranking over an engine with an air impact gun will tighten the crank bolt, (thats what they do) In fact it will tighten it so much that it will snap off the bolt! Been there, done that, and the engine wasen't even siezed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 rocking back an' forth in Hi gear works best,,,,,provided it isn't auto,,,grr,,,and the engine is in the chassis,,,Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Dry ice on the piston tops can shrink and break a bond also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Dry ice on the piston tops can shrink and break a bond also.Would it not be better to tip the engine up side down and put the dry ice in the skirt of the piston? Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Pour CLR into each cylinder and let it sit overnight, should bust the rust ridge and free the engine. CLR won't damage anything!What is CLR?One idea I had for freeing an engine (but haven't tried) is to install an in-hose coolant heater to warm the block so it expands a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 What is CLR?One idea I had for freeing an engine (but haven't tried) is to install an in-hose coolant heater to warm the block so it expands a bit.CLR=calcium, lime and rust remover. It's a brand name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karasmer Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I had to loosen the main and rod caps and free up the valves. These steps help out dramatically when all else fails. Continue with the soaking and tapping and walla a free engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pomeroy41144 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Did anyone notice the misspellings in the ad? I noticed a couple. Not a good sign. PP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim_Edwards Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 There really is no such thing as a magic bullet that is going to free a seized up engine, particularly if it hasn't been turned over for months or years. One that has resisted the simple methods is going to require the crankshaft be pulled and more than likely the pistons beaten out. In any event there is going to be a ridge and pits in each cylinder that can only be properly dealt with with a boring machine if the engine is ever to be right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Boudway Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hi, Good news!! The piston (1947 Evinrude 1 1/2 HP outboard) came loose today.I used the following potions: ATF, PB Blaster, Castle Thrust, Kano Kroil and CLR, in that order.The next thing would have been to get some dry ice for the inside of the piston.The bad news is that I didn't clean out between applications, so don't know what did the job. Sorry, but I'm guilty of conducting the experiment with bad controls.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest real550A Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I used to use the ATF/kerosene mix, until an old farmer told me that SeaFoam works better.I tried it on a stuck diesel tractor engine last Spring and it worked quickly. Put an inch in thecyls. and left it overnight. The flywheel turned the next day. Others had pulled this tractor in gear to no avail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys77 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Tell us / me about "Seafoam", please. I'll google it ......... but just in case ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest danceswithpumps Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Our Wal-Mart has it in the oil section. Good stuff!Rod:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jamessmith Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 What are the main features in this engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jason41188 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 hi this is jason , most of the time i used a hammer and brass drift to remove the pistons ,check this Toyota Tundra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karasmer Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Seafoam is an ant-gel you add to gasoline usually when you put a small motor to rest for the winter. Otherwise come spring the gasoline will start to turn into varnish and cause lots of problems.Works great as a preliminary carb cleaner when your motor won't idle or... before you take the carb apart, usually does the trick running some of this through the system. Sounds like a great idea for a stuck engine I will have to give it a try. I have been doing some research for the thinnest liquid or lowest viscousity fluidl out there. The idea is to get the fluid to seep around the rings through the corrosion to aid in freeing up the pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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