Luv2Wrench Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 He's fooling us. He's taking parts off a full size car from the junkyard and then shrinking them in his duplicator. The amazing part is that he's been able to build a parts duplicator that has a 1:12 shrinking function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 (edited) If I have a duplicator, this device is doing a bad job: have a look at the stationery hinge (the one which is attached to the pillar) with a real one! The shape is simplified on the model... Edited December 4, 2013 by Roger Zimmermann comment added (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Roger.....maybe photos of the real parts of the cars along with the model's part's photos would be a cool comparison idea. I know you do an awful lot to keep us up to date, but seeing what you are reproducing would be very cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 You asked already once about that, I'm sorry. In the case of door hinges, the picture in my previous message is the sole I have. Fortunately, I have some blueprints but, because of the size I cannot scan them. Furthermore, I believe that for most people a blueprint is very abstract. The drawings I have is a tremendous help to shape some parts. Unfortunately, those ca. 80 drawings I have are only a fraction needed to build a body.Detail pictures are usually missing. I'm taking a lot when I'm at the Swiss owner of 4 Mark II but, as they are parked near from each other, I can just open slightly one door. The picture below is a "good" sample of what I can get... Even if you see almost nothing (with the exception of the cracked dash leather), this picture tell me that the upper screw from the hinge at the door is not hidden by the trim whereas the other two are under the trim. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 I totally understand what you are dealing with and thanks for your efforts. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Outstanding work Roger. Outstanding! I don't know how you can machine pieces that small. I'm a machinist in the Guard for F16 aricraft and it gets pretty hairy with tight tolerances on parts, but to make pieces that small I would go cross eyed. Keep up the great work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 A quick update to show the completed hinges. The definitive shaft will be added later and fixed in a way that it will be not turning into the supports by opening or closing the door. If this would happen, wear would come rather quickly, the metal is not thick.The "legs" from the immobile part of the hinges will be attached later at the rear of the A pillar. You may notice that I had to do a hole at the lower hinge; the original part has a recess here to clear the hinge. No panic, there will be a bracket on the back for the body mount # 2, so the hole will be unnoticed.I'm glad that the A pillar is not yet completed: I have another element to include here: the check arm or the thing which prevents the door to open too much or close when it should not. This check arm had 2 rollers; one of them is spring loaded to force the check arm to stay in contact with the one acting as a stop. That arm will not be done in brass because it will not resist the first time a door will be open without too much care. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 To have doors which open without scratching the front fender require to have the pivot point as far as possible from the door's edge and as near as possible to the outside door's skin. With hinges encased inside the door's pillar, this is somewhat more difficult to achieve than when the hinges are attached ON the pillar, like it was a practice in the sixties and later, like I have on the '66 Toronado.When I first installed the LH door, I noticed that the distance from the pivot point to the door's edge was smaller than on the blueprints. Tolerances, thickness of metal all contributed to that discovery. As I still don't have the front fenders, it was difficult to check if I could open the door as intended or if I have to plan an oversize gap between both elements. As I did not want to take the chance, I did another set of brackets with the pivot point 1 mm more towards the front. This modification has also his dark side: when the door is closed, the back of the hinge are touching the bolts, so I had to modify slightly the mobile hinges...The whole inner construction at the door is held for the moment with just one small screw; it will be silver soldered when the check arm is done; this is the next step.Once the A pillar will be completed, the doors will not open as far as on the second picture! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreakofkorn Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 hmmmm ...... just wow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiliconS Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I think your panel gaps are a bit too good there, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 You are right. I should have .3 mm WITH paint! Contrary to my two previous models, I have provision on this car for adjustment. As the A pillar is not yet completed, the doors are just "on" but they will be removed and re-installed a myriad of times! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 Some days ago, I did the check arms with 0.4 mm thick stainless steel. Boy! I had probably 4 more time to file the contours from those pieces with steel than with brass!On the real car, the check arm is rotating around a small shaft located into a bracket. For service, there is an aperture at the back of the A pillar, large enough to R & R the shaft if needed. I have the aperture, the bracket (which is overkilled compared to the real one, but it will add some stability to the pillar) and the check arm. I tried to remove and install it from inside; it's almost mission impossible especially when I think that once the pillar is completed, I will have to install the shaft seeing nothing. The solution is to install definitively the check arm before the pillar is finished with the disadvantage that that check arm will be constantly in the way.I may try to increase the aperture towards the windshield, do a shaft with a tapered end, install temporarily the missing parts from the pillar and try and try again to install the shaft at the right place...The other part from the check arm will be attached to the door's pillar at about the spot you see on this picture at the end of the check arm. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Yikes! I like old mechanical watches, but I'm too shaky to work on them, which is frustrating! This is amazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Art Anderson Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I've seen my share of scratchbuilt model cars over the past 60+ years, but this one moves the standard way far up! You are surpassing the likes of Gerald Wingrove, Manuel Olive' and Michel Conti for sure. I have never seen any modeler work so diligently to recreate not only the external shapes and contours of a real 1:1 automobile, but ALL the eventually-to-be-unseen details of its construction as well.Art Anderson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 16, 2013 Author Share Posted December 16, 2013 Thank you for your comments, Art. In some aspect I may surpassing the gentlemen you cited but don't forget one thing: they were modeling for a living; they could not spend 10 years for a single scale model! They have/had maybe a better equipment than I have, allowing to create some parts quicker than I can. To me, this is the journey which is interesting, not the destination (well, although a little bit)! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 (edited) This is a small update: the check arm's brackets are done. Now, I have to adapt the door's structure to install the bracket. It will not be installed exactly like the real ones as there are two or 4 screws which are installed from inside the door; I have to adopt a more practical solution for a model. As you may see, the brackets are not so nice; here is first function over the appearance: once installed they cannot be seen.While doing those parts, I got the answer to the question I asked some time ago: I cannot leave the check arm at the front pillar because the whole assembly must go first into the door, the check arm being attached to the pillar as a last operation!Last update: install a bracket to the door on which I could attach the check arm. It works as intended, with a first stop at about 45° and the second one at about 60°, but not 70° like the real car. Edited December 17, 2013 by Roger Zimmermann wording and update (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 I don't know how you do this stuff. Just speachless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whtbaron Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 I tried to go the extra mile detailing plastic model cars when I was a teenager, but I never came anywhere near to remotely close in what you are building out of scratch. I am in total awe... your work is absolutely amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 whtbaron, plastic kits are nice to have (I have many, two or three still in the box); but it's not comparable. I could never add such fantasy like the check arm on a 1:24 model, mostly because the doors cannot be opened... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyreline Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Roger,it's been a true pleasure to follow this thread from the beginning. Your skills as a modeler are amazing, and it's continually entertaining to see how you face each and every challenge. It doesn't hurt that you have selected one of my all-time favorite cars as the subject of your current efforts . . . The Continental Mark II is such a timeless, classic design that it makes a fitting choice. I also have to applaud your past choices in modeling, as well as your own full-size fleet - we obviously share similar tastes in automobiles. While I'm sure that I, like everyone else, can't wait to see your next post as progress continues, take a break and enjoy a happy holiday season. Thank you for all the enjoyment you continue to bring to those of us who appreciate the highest levels of the modeler's art.Dave Reeves 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 21, 2013 Author Share Posted December 21, 2013 Thanks Dave for your comments. You should get a medal to have reed all pages relating this adventure! About difficulties: usually the first part should be difficult to design and fabricate and the second one should be an easy one. Strangely, I had recently a different experience... For example, the installation of the first check arm to the door was slow but I got it right the first time. I had to do 3 brackets for the other side: either I could not open the door wide enough or the link touched the inner door's skin, preventing to close it completely. The third bracket is the right one, I can attach it permanently to the door!Imagine, as some suggested, I should have done more than just one model, keep one and sell the others...I would just get really insane! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest myold88 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Rogger,Just like fyreline I must applaude you on your modeling skills and your choice of the Continental Mark II. I remember as a 14 year old being in the Cherry Hill N.J. Lincoln Mercury dealer with my parents when they bought their new '56 Mercury off the showroom floor. I spent every minute examining the beautiful new baby blue Mark II parked next to it. The chrome plated inner door trim at the latch still stands out in my memory. Also, my dad getting mad at me for showing no interest in our new Mercury...... Merry Christmas ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys77 Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Completely; utterly & amazingly OUTSTANDING, EH? !!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 Everyone on this forum should donate a couple of bucks to award you a real MK II when you are done. Just unbelievable.That's a good idea Dave! $ 1.00 per view would already paid a mint one!Fortunately, as I have already 3 older cars, I don't need a 4th one...Space is tight in Switzerland! Merry Christmas to all my followers! (and the other ones too...)To myold88: I can understan your father; after all, a Mercury was not the cheapest car available at that time and he was probably proud to be able to afford such a car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest my3buicks Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 I get re-amazed every time I look at this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cstanley-gs Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 I look forward to catching up in this thread. Never ceases to amaze me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 As I'm not the quickest, this will be the last update, unless there are questions, who knows!After installing the check arms on both sides, the big question was: and now, how to continue? I decided to go to the firewall which was not completed. I did the upper part which has the provision to attach the fenders and delimit the hood aperture, soldered it to the structure and installed, on a temporary basis, parts which were ready since 3 1/2 years!The doors were welcome to assist with the alignment. Now, I will probably continue with the sheet metal which is between the windshield and the hood. The A pillars will be done more or less at the same time but, when they will be finished, to remove or install a door will not be as easy as now by just removing the hinge's pins... Happy New Year to all! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 After the upper firewall was done, I came nearer to the A pillar and front door jam (Is that the correct term?). I did however a detour doing the upper lip to the doors. A thin chrome trim will get on the top of the lip; I don't know yet how I will attach that chrome part. The answer will come later, much later!After both doors got the same treatment, I had to decide: doing the A pillar or the front door jam? I did a template with some cardboard when I was by the Swiss Mark II collector; however, as I could not open the door very far, cutting correctly the cardboard was not so easy and I'm still not sure that the shape is correct. After a while, I opted for the door jam; it was a wise decision: Had I done the A pillar according to my template, the upper front bolt at the hinge would have been impossible to install. How is that possible? Well, the location of the hinges may not be totally exact (which means too low, especially for the upper one); I had to modify the curve the jam is doing. Now, I can do the A pillar by taking the door jam as a guide.The check arm for both doors are put on side, they just are in the way now. I just hope that I will remember what is going where when the final assembly will be near! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyreline Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Roger - the "absolutely" correct term is "door jamb" ("jamb" comes from the French "jambe", meaning "leg"). However, since most of the English-speaking world can't seem to get it right, "door jam" has actually become acceptable. Sounds like you made the right decision not doing the "A" pillar, I would constantly be worried about interference issues. Don't worry too much about remembering what goes where . . . Even just in photos, it does all make sense. Have a happy and blessed new year, take some time off once in a while. When you're working on a major project (or two, or ten) those "mental health breaks" become an important part of the construction process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Thanks fyreline to take the time to correct me. As the term "jam" is acceptable, I let it that way.About interference: I will have to fight with that in both cases (pillar first or door jamb first); however, I have the impression that doing the A pillar after the door will be a simplification.About time off: as we have a house at 600 km from our regular flat, we go there 4 times per year for maintenance, relaxing and light life. So, these breaks are "calculated" through the whole year!Have also a good and healthy new year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Being in Switzerland, am I correct to assume that your vacation "home" is in "Them thar hills"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Sorry Pat, what does that means: "Them thar hills"? If you are speaking slang with me, I'm lost! To answer your question: our vacation home is in France, near Nîmes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 "them thar hills" is a euphemism for "in those hills over there". I was jokingly referring to the Alps. But I see you got it in the Riviera, which is fine as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BillP Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 "However, since most of the English-speaking world can't seem to get it right, "door jam" has actually become acceptable"I disagree. Jamb is part of the door assembly, jam is (among other things) a fruit-based product that one spreads on toast. Since when do we allow illiteracy to drive change to the language? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyreline Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 I entirely agree with you . . . Words are important, and I would never use the word "jam" to describe any part of a door structure. However, to answer your question, "Since when do we allow illiteracy to drive change to the language?", the unfortunate but accurate answer is everyday, and increasingly so. That doesn't make it right, of course - or acceptable to those who give a damn about the written and spoken word - but there you have it. The use of the word "jam" where "jamb" is, in fact, correct can be seen in numerous dictionaries both in print and online. Sic Transit Gloria Mundi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lordairgtar Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 "However, since most of the English-speaking world can't seem to get it right, "door jam" has actually become acceptable"I disagree. Jamb is part of the door assembly, jam is (among other things) a fruit-based product that one spreads on toast. Since when do we allow illiteracy to drive change to the language?Since time immemorial. We'd still be speaking like Shakespeare wrote otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 I was jokingly referring to the Alps. But I see you got it in the Riviera...From where I'm located, driving 600 km will let me cross the borders from Switzerland in each direction! It may not be totally correct; I believe that 250 km is the greatest length from that country...Unfortunately, our vacation is not on the Riviera, but on the cheap coast situated between Nîmes and the Spanish border! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 From where I'm located, driving 600 km will let me cross the borders from Switzerland in each direction! It may not be totally correct; I believe that 250 km is the greatest length from that country...Unfortunately, our vacation is not on the Riviera, but on the cheap coast situated between Nîmes and the Spanish border!Oops! The 600 km never registered. Yes, that would take you over the line. See how not registering all the details can mislead you. By the way, I thought the entire South of France and Spain was the Riviera. See how little I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Ah! Those funny details! You may not know all (neither me) but at least you know that Switzerland is small! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreakofkorn Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 i still say, incredible work .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now