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About whtbaron

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  • Birthday 02/10/1958

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  1. I'm thinking that "cab" was built from a 32 Chevy 4 door sedan... a 2 door would have longer doors. This places the door handles below the beads, and if the rear of the body was welded to the back of the B pillars, it explains that sharp increase in altitude behind the doors. Top hinge lines up with the bottom of the side window. Rear window looks to be about the same shape. Also looks like he bent the front of the hood to match the grille. I bet if it was clamped down properly it lined up well at one time. I'm having problems finding a good shot of that front bead detail with no 2 toning or pinstripes, but I think it's there as well. Hard to tell, but I think I can see a weld on the roofline even with the backs of the doors where the back of the body was mated to the front.
  2. whtbaron


    Are those back fenders wide enough for a roadster? I was thinking maybe a touring. Wonder how much of the sheet metal is under the grass?
  3. Thanks guys... I was leaning towards Dodge but wasn't sure. I didn't even notice the horn button. So we're talking 1921 ish? So far my parts stash includes a Whippet frame and a flathead Dodge 6 so a Dodge cowl should fit right in. I know the landowner and I'm pretty sure we can work a deal.
  4. Yep.... afraid I'm serious. Not much to go on with this one... front half of a 4 door touring .... I'd guess somewhere between 1912 and 1925. Back doors were suicide mounted since the latches are on the back of the remaining B pillar. Windshield uprights and door latch are a little unusual ( maybe Dodge?). I've been looking for a non-Model T cowl for a speedster project and I'm thinking this just might be it... the more non-descript the better, but I have no clue what it is. Thoughts? No, it will not be going on Ebay...
  5. whtbaron

    20's frame

    Up until now, you've been hitting specific brand threads... maybe try posting it in the "what is it" section? Guys around here are pretty good with the ID's... maybe you just haven't shown it to the right person yet. Or maybe it's really that rare...
  6. There is a pre-war speedsters page on Facebook.... the administrator builds some pretty decent looking boat tail bodies for Model A's . If you aren't up to the challenge, you may consider purchasing one. https://www.facebook.com/groups/496619540483459/?multi_permalinks=2016811065130958&notif_id=1584669049818218&notif_t=group_highlights
  7. whtbaron

    20's frame

    Bloo beat me to it.... somebody in the other thread mentioned Moon. I've got a 23 and unless they changed a lot by the mid to late 20's, I have my doubts. Saying that, I haven't got the Moon front axle so I haven't seen that. That's a very stark bare frame. Someone mentioned Stutz having that brake system... you'd kick yourself if you scrapped it and it turned out to be one...
  8. whtbaron

    20's frame

    Why scrap it just because you don't know what it is? Toss some more readily available power train parts on it and go... speedster all the way.
  9. So is that a difference between the REO and Olds? This 1915 REO roadster seems similar...
  10. The sharp drop of the front springs and the shallow axle dip seems to suggest REO/Olds.... Headlight buckets suggest 1915 or slightly newer...
  11. Hmmm.... do you think that axle dips enough for an Overland?
  12. My best guess would be circa 1915 Olds?
  13. Another pic off the net that I can't identify... anyone?
  14. Be careful with the thicker silicone based concoctions... not so much with primitive transmissions, but more-so with motors. Chunks of silicone can be squeezed inside and roam around causing problems. I'm surprised the teflon/dope solution didn't work for you. Have you tried cleaning up the threads? Also inspect around the hole closely. If someone has been wrapping too much material in there, if may be causing cracking around the drain hole. Normally for nasty ones I use one coat of dope... a couple wraps of teflon... then apply more dope and "usually" that fixes it. If you can get access to some small taps/dies for NPT maybe try lightly cleaning the threads. With newer automotive oil pan drain plugs, you can also get oversized plugs but I doubt you would get one in that style of plug/thread. Might be worth checking out if the problem persists, but again, be careful because going too big can split a casting or pan.
  15. Apparently the car has been yard art since 1975 and now has a new owner that is hoping to put it back on the road in some shape or form. Probably not scoring any brownies with the purists, but at least it wasn't crushed. And by the way, the guys you helped out say "Thank-you"... as do I.