Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models

[Roger Zimmermann]

After the door jambs, it was time to continue with the A pillars. Well, I had more difficulties than anticipated. That pillar should look like that:

Seems rather easy to do, until I was going at it. Even with many pictures, the real shape is difficult to be scaled down to the model.

However, before I began it, I searched what could be easy to do. Ah! There is a reinforcement at the upper hinge. I'll do that first. This small bracket is really effective to add some rigidity at the pillar.

Once those easy things are done, well, I had to pack it. I expected to make the vertical part in one piece but I could not get the curves right, so I cut it just before it get almost horizontal. The remaining elements were soft soldered after I was sure that there was no interference with the door. I will however have to be careful with the paint: just a light coat, like at the factory then!

Here is the result:

For the moment, the fourth side of the pillar is still open. As long as I'm "playing" with the doors, it's easier to take both pins out from the hinges than unscrew 6 or 8 screws, depending if the door alone is coming away or with the hinges. You will probably notice that the real car had 2 fillers at the hinges to improve the appearance. This will added at the end as they will be cemented with silicone as there is a lack of space to add screws, even small ones.

Now, the other side is waiting...

Edited January 19, 2014 by Roger Zimmermann
Comment added (see edit history)

[Willys77]

Your talent, perseverance, ability & dedication continue to astound, amaze & leave my vocabulary somewhat lacking necessary words to tell you how _________ you're progressing with this project, Roger!!!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Willys77!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Some days ago, I began the windshield pillars. They are strange pieces of metal, not related to the body, they are like floating somewhere. When I began to attach the first one to the body, it was clear that I had to do something to locate it with more or less precision and keeping both hands free.

A piece of cardboard was quickly cut and bent; it's a good helper! Unfortunately, I only can use it on the left side; due to the costs involved, a jig for the right side has been cancelled.

Then, I had the good idea to check the pillar with the roof on the body. I was well inspired because once the roof was temporary installed, I noticed that the top from the outer panel's left door was too much inwards. After some rework, I'm now pleased with both doors and the pillar will be at the right place.

Once soldered to the body and without the roof, the pillars will be in the way most of the time, but they are to be in place before the filler between hood and windshield can be soldered.

[SiliconS]

Unfortunately, I only can use it on the left side; due to the costs involved, a jig for the right side has been cancelled.

hehe!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Just for the fun, I put the body on the frame after the second windshield pillar was soldered to the structure. The roof is also just put on the body, held with 2 screws at the sail panels.

[Scotts_DG8]

Roger,

I know there is so much more work to be done but this to me is a bit of a milestone image. I really admire your skills and ability to visualize and then build something from scratch like this. Great job so far and looking forward to the many future mini milestones until this project is completed. Scott...

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Scott! You are right, there is still a lot do do. The front clip is a major task and then all the small details like chrome parts, locks (door locks are coming soon as it's anoying to have doors banging when the body is handled...), dash, and so on...

[keiser31]

SUPERFANTASTIC! That is the only word I can come up with for your incredibly detailed work.

[Laughing Coyote]

Speechless. Just speechless. Still can't believe how you can work in that small of a scale.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks! I did know that if I'm showing the actual body on the frame there would be some reaction! I understand also that showing a pillar in construction is not so exciting...

To Martin: I did restore cars scale 1:1 (the 3 older ones in my signature); it a rather different art of work. However, I like to do small things and I have less competition!

[Landman]

Roger, you have no competition whatsoever. You are alone in the world doing this.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Roger, you have no competition whatsoever. You are alone in the world doing this.

Not at all, Pat. Have a look here: http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/index.html There are plenty of people doing small "machines". The difference between a car model and a real one (except the size)? For a real car, you need space and outside help. People are looking at what you are doing because sometimes you have the garage door open. Once completed, you go out with your car and, especially yours, people notice and like it. There is so much more exposure to real cars compared to scale model...Once the Mark II will be finished, it will stay behind glass, unless I can reduce myself to sit in!

[Guest lordairgtar]

Well, Mr Zimmermann, if you were to participate in any of the NNL events around the US and even the world, you would walk away with the honors. NNL stands for National Nameless Luminaries, a sort of ribbing (joke) directed at a group of well known modellers who did not participate in an event put on several years ago. Now, NNLs are model shows where there isn't judging per se, but there are votes by peers for best model. Mostly cars are the center of these get togethers but other model genres have been known exhibit. I think there is a similar event held in Norway or Sweden every year.

[Landman]

Not at all, Pat. Have a look here: http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/index.html There are plenty of people doing small "machines". The difference between a car model and a real one (except the size)? For a real car, you need space and outside help. People are looking at what you are doing because sometimes you have the garage door open. Once completed, you go out with your car and, especially yours, people notice and like it. There is so much more exposure to real cars compared to scale model...Once the Mark II will be finished, it will stay behind glass, unless I can reduce myself to sit in!

Lord Thunderin! Roger, you are right next to Gerald Wingrove in there. I had seen some of the people in there from time to time , like Michael Paul Smith and his unbelievably true to life dioramas. But I still say, you are at the top. Nuff said.

Do you think , If I bought Gerald Wingrove's book, I could teach myself to build a model of my old Chevy?

[Willys77]

"Do you think , If I bought Gerald Wingrove's book, I could teach myself to build a model of my old Chevy?"

HEAR, HEAR Pat! You do NOT require any book at all in order to build a fine model of "the old Chevy". Especially considering the exceptional job you performed getting the old girl back up on her wheels & rolling down the road again. Consider what you started with - almost nothing - other than your vision! Same as Roger with his Mark II & the Toronado & Studebaker! Roger, I may have missed it or just don't remember, what is the overall length & wheelbase of the Continental after completion? Don't remember the real stats, either. Thanks guys! You're both an inspiration to all reading these posts.

Edited January 31, 2014 by Willys77 (see edit history)

[Roger Zimmermann]

OK, at least more than one message to respond! To Willys 77: I'm not so convinced that the books are unnecessary: I learned some interesting "how to do" tips, for example the way to do tires. To restore a car or to build a scale model requires totally different techniques; I'm well placed to say that because I restored also 3 cars. Mark II total length when ready: 18.2"; wheelbase 10.5".

To Pat: if you are serious about modeling, buy both. See my remark to Willys77. The debate is open if I'm as good as Gerald. I do things differently because I'm doing that just for me, without too much time pressure with the exception of my own age and, secondary, for the viewer from this forum (and others).

To lordairgtar: Norway or Sweden are far away from Switzerland! As you can see from my answer to Pat, I'm not eager to go to shows. My exposure to some forums is enough to me; of course, there is a huge difference to see a model or whatever on a screen or in reality.

Nice week-end to all!

[Landman]

Just ordered both Wingrove books.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Oh Pat, you are really serious about your plan! You will have plenty to read and get frustrated too, because some details are so incredible...Thinking about the shape from your Chevrolet: if I would do it, I would do some parts, like the fenders, in polyester as round shapes are difficult to do in metal. You will see yourself!

[Landman]

I think I would start by modifying something that is close first, like The Gabriel '32 : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-MIB-Hubley-by-Gabriel-1932-Chevrolet-Coupe-Metal-Model-Kit-Sealed-Parts-/380830093618

There is no model of a '34 Chevrolet as far as I know. I could learn to mold/shape/fabricate the parts required and fiddle with it until it looks like the real thing. I don't think I'll ever get around to building one from scratch.

By the way, I and several others have suggested to the man doing the models in the link below to send his pictures and story to that craftsmen site.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/2-3-scale-cars-motorcycles-55257/

[Roger Zimmermann]

This '32 Chevrolet is not exactly like yours but the main body is looking very similar. Strangely enough, there is no reference of a scale on the link. I suppose it's a 1: 24 or 1:25.

[Guest lordairgtar]

The Hubley/Gabriel metal kits are 1/16th scale.

[Guest Barry B.]

The Hubley Model A's I have are 1/25th I believe.

[Willys77]

Roger - why I posted that Pat didn't need any "book" to build a model of his '34 Chevy Master - was simply the _______ restoration job that he performed on his car!!! Look at the readership on your thread here & the rest of the "Restoration Forum" alone! The amount of "learning" we have all done - just by reading these posts alone - is indescribable!!! I read the occasional "model" magazine myself & always pick up some info no matter what it is that I read. Absolutely, all can benefit from reading - why it's a core subject in school!! So my comment was "tongue in cheek" or something? FWIW, I've often thought about building a Willys model over the years. Maybe I need to buy a couple of books,EH!!!???

[Roger Zimmermann]

My only point was that to restore a car, no matter the initial condition, or build a model requires different techniques. Even if I can consider myself a good modeller, I'm learning tricks from others. Fortunately, nobody knows all and everybody can learn something from somebody else.

[Landman]

This '32 Chevrolet is not exactly like yours but the main body is looking very similar. Strangely enough, there is no reference of a scale on the link. I suppose it's a 1: 24 or 1:25.

The Hubley/Gabriel is 1:20. There are some 1:24 and 1:25 versions of the '32 Chevy in both metal and plastic. The only thing close to mine is the Danbury Mint '35 Chevrolet Standard Roadster in 1:24 and very expensive.

[Roger Zimmermann]

That almost car was again put in pieces to continue the construction. While it was away from the building frame, I did the reinforcements and body mount #2, located near the "A" pillar's base.

Then I continued with the top of the cowl. It's not a huge part, but complex as it has the provision for the wipers, the flange for the windshield and, in my case the base for the dashboard. On the real car this part is welded on the structure; to facilitate the assembly, the dash will be attached with screws on the model.

I had some brainstorming about the way to do the wiper shafts and how to attach them to the body. A system was developed allowing inserting the shaft and wiper from outside; a retainer at the cowl's structure will prevent the assembly to come out. I could have decided to use some glue, but I don't like that kind of assembly. Of course, the wipers are not yet done, only on paper!

It was almost the same for the hand brake. On some pictures, I can see the handle, but how that thing was attached remained a mystery until somebody from the Mark II forum sent me some pictures. I began with the supporting bracket, attached it with screws on a temporary basis at the cowl as well as the flange for the hand brake itself. These are the long screws visible on the second picture. Of course, they will be trimmed later at the appropriate length.

The third picture is showing the real hand brake assembly. One day, "mine" will look about the same.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Yesterday I could finish the cowl by adding the flange for the windshield and some finishing details. With what should I continue?

As I like to have the doors on the model, they open and close each time the body is handled. Therefore, I will do now the locks.

3 models, 3 completely different types of locks: the Toronado had the style with the large bolt on the "B" pillar; the Avanti has the Mercedes lock type and the Mark II has the rotary type, the most difficult to construct with my equipment.

I'm adding pictures from the real thing.

Edited February 7, 2014 by Roger Zimmermann
Pictures added (see edit history)

[SiliconS]

I can't wait to see how you do it on this scale!

[Roger Zimmermann]

As I expected, it's not an easy task! The first job was to figure how I can do it. For those who never had a look at a lock, here is a '59 Cadillac lock I removed about 30 years ago. I sold most of the parts from this car; fortunately, I still have just this lock, so I can look at it for inspiration:

The design is similar to the one from the Mark II; there is a star wheel inside, connected to the outside one. My lock will not be so complicated because I will not do the locking mechanism, just what's needed to open and close the doors.

The Mark II lock is not a good design in my opinion. Look at the other side from the Cadillac lock:

The turning wheel is protected by a hood which is also a bearing. This missing element is probably the reason why there are some difficulties with Mark II locks; sometimes people cannot open their door any more. With the outer bearing missing, there is are lot of efforts on the bearing between both wheels and, with use, there can be some wear. Another point: the way the lock was designed, the external hood would have been upside down, ready to get all the water a car can get. I saw a picture from a '57 Lincoln, the construction was similar to the Cad one; maybe the people at Lincoln had a better idea!

I will try to add an inside bearing but the window's guide is just in the way. I had also a difficult choice about the material to use. Of course, brass is the first choice. It can be chromed for added strength but, in this case, the star wheel had to be silver soldered to the outside wheel when the assembly is done. To let chrome a moving assembly is a risk I will not take. Therefore, I'm doing the wheels with mild steel which will stay unplated.

I began with the outside wheels; I was not especially pleased with the first two but the second pair is not better. I used about 3 days for those 4 wheels; with a proper equipment, they would be cut in 5 minutes!

Together with the wheels you can see both bearing which are located between the outside wheel and the inner star wheel. The shafts from the wheels are much too long; I needed the length for the fabrication; the shafts will be trimmed when the inner star wheel is soldered.

[Roger Zimmermann]

One step forwards, two steps back...This is happening also in scale models. I'm putting the door lock on a back burner for the moment: the gear wheels I did are not precise enough to go further with them. I began the striker and, obviously, I will have difficulties to close the doors properly with such irregular teeth.

I spoke this morning with a company doing gears; maybe they will cut the teeth from my own pieces. It will cost a leg, but at least I will get a gear looking like a gear.

However, we are just talking for the moment, nothing is done.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Indeed, the failure I'm experiencing is the result of a wrong calculation. To calculate the pitch from the striker I did a major mistake: I used more or less the distance between 2 teeth at the outside diameter. The pitch is calculated with the formula: pi x module = 3.14 x .35 = 1.099 or, practically 1.1. I used 1.7...No wonder that my wheel, even if not perfect, could not go on the striker! I will probably redo the striker a third time; but I'm waiting for the answer from the outside supplier.

The way the pitch is calculated differs between Europe and the USA, which is the reason most of you will not understand the word "module".

[Roger Zimmermann]

Contrary to what I wrote recently, I'm continuing with the locks. As the outside wheel is on hold, I'm doing the inside. The ratchet was rather easy to mill; as you can see on the pictures, the ratchet has a hub which is way too long. But it was needed for manufacturing and, during the construction of the "prototype", rather handy to manipulate.

I had again a long brain storming to design the lock. One difficulty was to imagine how to connect the lever needed to open the door from inside the car to the transverse lever locking/unlocking the ratchet. My solution is probably not to be transposed to the 1:1 scale but I did not find a better one. The other problem was to adapt a spring to the locking lever. Again, the solution is unconventional...

The door handle will push on the lever at the left, unlocking the ratchet. The lever responsible to open the door from inside is attached by a screw which is not the definitive solution.

[Roger Zimmermann]

There were some activities recently. I finished the door locks as far as I could, waiting for the outside supplier. Called him on Monday, and, the day after he showed me a prototype. This is a gear factory and it was the first time the operator was involved with a gear with 6 teeth. He was afraid that the base of the tooth would be too thin, but the prototype is looking good. He will do some more for a half reasonable amount and then, I will rework his job to get the parts with the correct shape. I cannot deliver my almost finished blanks to him because the machine milling the teeth needs much more length as the final parts will be.

In the meantime, I began the vent windows. First the frame attached to the door, and then the frame for the glass will come next. Most went windows have a pivot at the top and the other one at the bottom. Not with the Mark II, as you can see here:

The upper pivot is located on the almost vertical post for an unknown reason (sometimes I can guess why this or that solution was chosed, but not this time). Well, the difficulty was to remove the excess metal on just one side, without marring the other side. The upper pivot was also not easy to evaluate and solder at the right place. To be sure of my design, I quickly did a solid window and soldered some shafts; after some "adjustments" I have the impression that I can continue with the thin frame. By the way, I could not measure something on the Swiss cars: all batteries are removed and all vent windows are closed!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Today, I pick up the gears done by the Swiss company. They did enough pieces in case something is going wrong. I hope that it will not be the case, but who knows! They even let the machine the way it is the next few weeks in case I'm needed more.

As you can see, I will have a lot of metal to remove to get to the shape I'm needed. For reference, one of my own gears is on the picture for comparison.

[jfreakofkorn]

some really beautiful craftsmanship ....

[Roger Zimmermann]

As I got the gears, I had to make the rework and continue the door locks.

First the rework from the gears:

Then, once the gears were finished, I began to think about joining the outside catch wheel with the inner pawl. I did one or two verifications and, boum! I realized that I did a very bad mistake: the movement of the pawl was reversed, which means that I would have to push the handle's button to close the door and, once the door is closed, it could be opened just by pulling at the handle. Oh, no big deal, I can take the elements from the RH lock and put them into the LH lock. Unfortunately, it does not work that way.

Back to the drawing board, more or less...

I did a second lock but, at the end, I was not pleased the way the locking lever was pushed by the pawl to close the door. (fictive for the moment).

Back again to the drawing board...

The third design is now completed with the exception of the inner lever and a return spring for the lever which is pushed by the door handle button.

The lever pushed by the handle button is at the right, the inner lever will push the lever seen at the left. The spring for the main locking lever is again very unconventional; I tried other methods; it was each time a failure.

The small plate at the image's bottom is needed to avoid that everything is flying in the air; the last picture is showing how it's installed.

The outside catching wheel and the inner pawl are attached by soft soldering. To avoid any movement relative to each other, I inserted a small pin because if I let the soldering iron on the pawl for a too long time, it could get soldered to the lock's body...

[Landman]

Roger, what are you going to do when you get into the small stuff?:cool:

[Roger Zimmermann]

Oh Pat! I could have made that lock smaller; fortunately, I have enough space in the door to have it extra large...Only the thickness is limited by the side window...

[Roger Zimmermann]

...and I did win it! In fact, I spent about 2 months doing the locks; a terrible time with lot of frustration. As I wrote earlier, the rotary latch is making the whole matter complicated because it's difficult to evaluate the proper dimensions from all elements involved. I did three times the lock itself as well as three pairs of stickers. The discarded strikers:

The upper pair had a wrong pitch; I corrected it with solder and some rework, therefore unsuitable for the model. The second pair was indeed good; unfortunately, the rack is placed too much outwards; I could not adjust them on the body to have correctly closed doors, therefore a third set was needed. One would think that the more parts I'm doing the better they come. Well, not exactly. One time is too much silver solder (difficult to remove in recessed areas), another time is something different...Usually, from the quality point of view, the first part is the best one.

From the beginning, I had difficulties to keep the doors closed due to the flexion of the hinges. I understood that the dovetail (the name is from the Mark II shop manual) is indeed a necessity to keep doors closed no matter if it's a scale model or a real car. However, I could not add the dovetail to the lock before the definitive striker was available. I toyed also with the idea to have a chromed dovetail just cemented on the lock. Due to the meaning of that part, this idea was discarded. A view of the rotary latch and dovetail:

The installed striker:

The installed lock in the door:

The lever to open the door from inside is still not definitively attached because it will be reworked once the inside handle is fabricated. Same remark for the lever which will be pushed by the outside button. Those details will be solved later when the respective parts are available.

As on a real car, the door is closed with two steps. Once closed, the assembly is strong enough to support the body which is now 760 grams:

What next? Well, I don't know yet. Maybe the chromed parts which are coming on the door jambs and pillars or the rear guides for the side windows...As Spring time is there, I will soon go to my friend with his 4 Mark II to have some more dimensions and take back home a trunk hinge...