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Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models


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As I wrote some days ago, I'm doing now the heater motors; there are two under each front fender. For once, an easy job!

The next step is to do the case and brackets. The case is a two halves stamped parts, of course there is a RH and a LH case. I don't know yet how I will do that but, at first glance, it will not be too difficult.

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Guest abaucom21

Found this thread link from another website this morning and read all 25 pages non stop. Joined the Forum and look forward to updates from Mr. Zimmermann.

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Well, abaucom21, you had a lot to read, thank you!

Pat: there are other fools on earth, you would be surprised...I'm getting mad when I just think about Gerald Wingrove, one of the best modelers.

Anyway, I could finish the heater case assemblies. As I wrote earlier, the case is stamped in 2 pieces and spot welded at the flange. I did not like that: I did 4 identical "covers" and silver soldered like you can see on the first picture. Then, the side was completed and soldered. I had to add the spot welded flange which was done with a bit of brass. To have its location at the right place, I milled 4 slots. I had to be imaginative to maintain the case on the milling table...

The motor(s) done previously was soft soldered on the case; five 0.5mm rods were added; they represent the screws.

Then, I did the brackets. By looking at a picture supplied by a member of the Mark II forum, I came to the conclusion that the brackets are from the same stamping; for one car, two are staying flat, one is bent in one direction and, for the other heater motor assembly another one is bent in the other direction. One stamping and finally 3 different parts...

The holes to attach the heater motors to the front fender are not yet done; it will happen when the front fenders are existing.

As it's still too cold to work on the wood form, I will continue with ....the front signal lamps! I have dimensions and good pictures and they have to be done anyway.

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Those little things were more labor intensive as I thought; this sounds familiar, isn't it?

I first began with the lip around the lens, did 3 various tentative to shape that frame; the third one was the right one. Then the body of the lamp was done with 2 silver soldered pieces "hammered" on a suitable form. By chance I have very light hammers! That first assembly was then mated to a front plate into which the lens is attached by screws. Then, the first part, the frame, was soldered.

During planning, electrical light was an option and the bodies were arranged to include a miniature bulb, diameter 1.5 mm (0.06"). They are also installed in the Toronado model, but conflict with voltage prevented to finish the installation. Maybe this time I will be clever and avoid this problem. To attach the bulbs in the Toronado was a problem; I overcame it by doing a small socket glued to the lamp. Now, I just have to push the assembly into the body and I have the proper location of the bulb. Of course, if a bulb goes bad, I have to do another socket as I used a strong glue.

The last item to do was the lens. It must follow the shape of the frame which is not flat. I had to think a bit to overcome that problem; I believe that I succeed. I did 7 lenses, 2 were discarded because I let the tooling too long on the cooker (my wife was not there).

The first picture is showing the tooling for the lenses; one finished lens and some spare are on the second one and the third picture is showing the finished lamps, one modified bulb and how the unmodified bulb is looking.

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While at the lamps, I'm continuing with the headlamps. When I was making the Toronado, I did a major mistake by doing the wrong headlamps: I reproduced 7" lamps instead of the correct 5" ones. I don't remember if I noticed that before or after the parts were chromed; anyway, I had a bunch of reflectors and lenses at hand. A pair was used when I "restored" the Avanti; a pair reflector will be used on the Mark II. However, I'm not pleased with the lenses; they are too far from the reality.

The headlamps' lenses are made with 8 molds (at least I imagine it that way) attached together. I will do the same as it will allow me to make the details independently on each form. This is the idea; I don't know yet if I will succeed. If not, I have a set of lenses which is ready to use...

The first image is showing 8 pieces of brass screwed together. The second picture is showing the general shape of the lens; this is to be done when all pieces are together. The polyester form which will be used to squeeze the Plexiglas together is curing on the third picture; this is the second tentative...

Polyester is taking a rather long time to cure; I had to continue with something else. The next picture is showing the tools needed to stamp the headlamp's retainers from a flat sheet 0.2 mm thick. 3 retainers are on the picture; the one in the center is too irregular and will be kept as a spare, just in case. Of course, the retainers must be trimmed and 3 little "ears" soldered.

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Yesterday, I filed the various details on each plate constituting the main tool. I was the whole afternoon with a magnifier on the

head...

Sometimes, there are two steps forward and one backward! I experienced that yesterday while doing the first lens. The

polyester piece to push the Plexiglas on the pattern went soft as the main tool is heated in the kitchen. The lens was no good.

I had no other choice but do that part in brass, however, I had not the proper diameter at home! The difficulty was overcome

with thick flat brass soldered to a shaft. The various parts are shown on the first picture.

Today, after turning the other half of the tool, I went again into the kitchen to heat the tooling as Plexiglas can only be formed

with heat. I have to say, I'm satisfied with the result. The complete tooling with some lenses are on the second picture.

It's not easy to photography transparent parts, the third picture is the best I could do.

The lenses must be trimmed and adjusted to the reflectors. I will only need two; the other ones are as spare.

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<o:p></o>

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Not looking to start an international incident, my wife is wondering why you are taking a short cut and making the lenses out of plastic instead of glass......of course she was kidding and is totally amazed by your work just like the rest of us are!

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This is Truly some remarkable work and Alot Of Patience required here ....

I ll be following this Thread and cant wait to see the end result ...

You will need to have almost so much patience as I have, this travel will continue for some years...To me, this is the road which is interesting, not the end result, even if I will not give it away!

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After the lamps, there must be some kind of energy to illuminate them; therefore a battery must be done! No, no, it's just static, no magic element stored inside!

I had a hard time to "design" such an ordinary element. Well, Mark II batteries had a typical decor, done specifically for the car. I had pictures from the shop manual; I'm always skeptical with so called pictures from shop manuals, it can also be an artist rendering. I had also a picture from an overlay sold for Mark II modern batteries. I mixed both designs and came with something I could do.

I first did a box with the top decor, all silver soldered. Then I began with the first "applique" on top of the battery, double the width and continued with 1 mm bands soft soldered to the box.

I attempted then to mill a line at the large top band, using tools for the first time I have them (about 30 years!) as you can see on the first picture. Then came the star, also soft soldered. The diamond-shaped elements next to the star forced me to surpass myself...These 4 little parts are cemented on the case with cyanolit glue (instant glue); I supposed that any attempt to solder them would end in a disaster. I don't like glue; I hope it will not let me down...

The last picture is the overlay sold actually.

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You sir.. are amazing.

How much does a finished car weigh?

Id love to hold one in my hands to experience it LOL

Thank you!

The Toronado is 2.3 kg heavy (about 5 pounds) and the Avanti is 2 kg (4.4 pounds). As the plan is to do the body for the Mark II in brass or copper, I hope that the weight will no go behond 3 kg (6.6 pounds). The toronado and Avanti have a body made with polyester.

You will have to travel a bit if you want to hold a model in your hands!

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Those little ba.....s took more time as I anticipated. Nevertheless, both are done. I will next do the supports and the trumpet horn which is the third one.

The trumpet horn can be viewed from under when the car is completed, the dual horns are squeezed between the radiator cradle and grille,

and they will hardly be seen.

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Another update for cstanley-gs...and the others!

After looking forth and back, I did the supports for the horns. Up to now, it's good looking, I will notice if they are correctly positioned when I will be doing/installing the grille...I believe there is only a few fraction of inches between both parts.

I hope you will appreciate how the horns are attached to the brackets. No, it's not spring steel like the original, just brass!

Now it's the turn to the third one.

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Sir, you deserve a week off when you want. If I made only one part like any of yours, I would go on tour to show it ! Astonishing work, I always look forward to your posts. It's so nice that there are still craftsmen like you, thanks so much for sharing with us, John

Oh, and referencing your reply to me in post 599 (I think), please don't be "disconcerted" with the word "sir". I was raised in the South and it is a term of respect to someone that deserves it.

Edited by John Byrd (see edit history)
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Roger, I know you can build your body but perhaps you should commission the folks who built that spectacular Delahaye Replica.

I may not have enough money... I prefer not to know what they charge for the Delahaye. Furthermore, the idea is to do it myself, not from other, it's too easy!

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Well, I was not totally inactive...I began the third horn and decided not to go further for the moment. I have pictures for the support and the trumpet which comes on the 90° bent rod. But that horn is squeezed between the lower air deflector and the bumper; I'm waiting to have an idea of the available space I will have on the model to continue. It could be that I have to do it smaller and/or shorter.

In my quest to do something productive, I did the spark plugs and a tool to torque them with precision (:rolleyes:) into the cylinder heads. Yes, there are 9, one is for spare in case I have an ignition miss! And yes, the threaded part is too long; I did it that way to facilitate the fabrication.

Next futile part? The generator's regulator.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Back from vacation...It was cold, oft raining, unusual in South of France. It seems that all Europe is affected from cold weather... Some days ago, it was just above freezing in my store room/shop, therefore no good for wood work. In my quest to do something, I'm doing now the windshield washer pump. As most of you know, the wipers and washer are operated by vacuum. Lincolns and Continentals have the same system for the washer as Cadillac had till 1955: an hybrid system with vacuum and electricity. The pictures are showing where I'm now. One of the big problem will be to do a jar; at first I wanted to cast the jar with transparent resin; as the pump is down into the jar if something go wrong with the casting, I will get into trouble as the parts may not be usable again. I will probably machine a bit of Plexiglas.post-66721-143141828716_thumb.jpg

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Guest cstanley-gs

I was thinking about this thread a few hrs ago, wondering when we'd hear back from you and here you are!

It seems everywhere is cooler, Im a Canadian living in Florida so its usually always 'hot' to me, but this winter seems colder than the rest. Maybe my blood is finally beginning to thin LOL

If you machine some plexiglass, wont it have a frosted look? And not be able to see the pump in the jar? Or can you polish it after machining it?

You did a great job on the resin tires, may work well with the jar too.

You've given me inspiration too, though It wont be as detailed. I have a 1970 Buick, and plan to use an existing Ertl 1/18 scale car and make it a copy. I'll take it apart, paint it to match, and detail the existing pieces with model paints. My only concern is how to add a vinyl top to the model. Ive found couple techniques online, just need to do some experimenting to see which will work best. One is to cover the top with masking tape and paint. Masking tape has a nice texture that scales well with the vinyl top texture. Not sure of the longevity of that however. The other method is to spray paint it with the paint held at a distance, allowing some paint to technically dry before it hits the metal, causing an orange peel texture, this may be the better option. Ill take some pix along the way, and maybe make a thread here.

Keep it up Roger! Im really looking forward to the body of this car.

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Im really looking forward to the body of this car.

Me too! Regarding the jar: it must be clear, so polishing the inside and outside will be mandatory. Casting the jar presents some difficulties: it has to be done with the cover and pump already painted. Then the jar could be cast over the pump, hoping that the resin is not coming over the cover. The mould for the jar must be in 2 parts to be able to remove it. It could be larger than needed and, once the resin is cured, the diameter's jar could be turned on the lathe. How? by clamping on the already painted cover...As you see, there are some difficulties.

Regarding your project: I already had a discussion with something similar, maybe here on in another forum. One of the solution would be to include some material to the paint like flour and spray it with a airbrush spray gun. I would not use masking tape as the glue is not stable with the time. Which Buick model do you have/intend to reproduce?

Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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Cool! Thanks for those photos. Now we can see what you are working with. If you could post some like that as you go along, that would be great to compare real from model.

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Some additional work could be done to the pump; the black wire is simulating the vacuum hose; both copper wires are simulating the wiring for the electrical part. They will be painted later, when the finishing work can begin. 2 "hoses" are missing: the one for the water and the vacuum hose going to the coordinator. People not knowing how is working the vacuum wiper/washer system will be a little bit lost!

The jar will be the next task; I have to go in town to find some suitable material.

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