Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models

[Roger Zimmermann]

Sometimes I amazed myself! Yes, the wing nuts are tiny; one of the difficulties was to clamp them to work them.

The "resistor" is tiny too; fortunatly, the drill went intact after the 20 holes. Afterwards, I broke a slightly larger bit...Nobody is perfect!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Another small part which is ready. Well, not quite, I have to grind the heads from the front .5 mm bolts.

In fact, the bolts may be too long. They will be adjusted to proper length when the nuts are on. Those tiny nuts are wider in proportion than the real ones.

Today, I got the wood to make the body pattern; therefore a completely different kind of work is waiting!

[Luv2Wrench]

Holy cow!! That is absolutely insane!! Those bolts are about the size of the 'L' in 'DOLLAR'.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Holy cow!! That is absolutely insane!! Those bolts are about the size of the 'L' in 'DOLLAR'.

From time to time, I have to repeat it: I fell on my head when I was 15.

The bolts are bought from a company called Scale Hardware in Florida (metric and stainless steel!) and the brass ones are from a company in Germany.

[Luv2Wrench]

From time to time, I have to repeat it: I fell on my head when I was 15.

The bolts are bought from a company called Scale Hardware in Florida (metric and stainless steel!) and the brass ones are from a company in Germany.

Yes that might be, but I'm guessing Scale Hardware doesn't sell Continental Mark II Starter Relays!!!

[Roger Zimmermann]

At least I could fill all the tiny holes from the polyester and apply a coat of primer. Then it was the turn for the straps holding the tank to the floor.

I have the impression that the straps are too wide; I will look at my Cadillacs the width of the straps; it must be similar on the Mark II.

The plumbing will be done later, just prior the final assembly as it makes no sense to do the fuel and vent lines now to store them a long time with the damaging risk.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Yes that might be, but I'm guessing Scale Hardware doesn't sell Continental Mark II Starter Relays!!!

No, just the bolts! By the way, this relay was used on many Ford and Studebaker vehicles, it was not specific to the Mark II.

[Roger Zimmermann]

As said some time ago, the ordered wood was ready. I ordered it as 15 mm thick boards. Then began the gluing of the boards, one each day. Now, as you can see on the picture, the pattern is ready. You can notice the long hood/short trunk and the elegant lines.

What, you don't see that? Oh, sorry, I'm looking at the Franklin Mint model while typing!

Working on that huge (all is relative) piece of wood won't be easy. First I have to take more measures from an existing car; however, I can begin with the length's profile which is set.

In between, I began the radiator. The upper water tank is ready.

[Scotts_DG8]

Roger,

Every update you do is giving us some insight into what is involved in building this type of model and it sure holds my attention. I'm looking forward to seeing the glued up block get transformed into a buck and even more so to the panels that will follow. I know too based on what you've posted there is still a lot more to come and you've got to know that I, along with all the other viewers of your thread, will be patiently waiting for your next update. It's really an amazing talent you have. Scott...

[keiser31]

As said some time ago, the ordered wood was ready. I ordered it as 15 mm thick boards. Then began the gluing of the boards, one each day. Now, as you can see on the picture, the pattern is ready. You can notice the long hood/short trunk and the elegant lines.

What, you don't see that? Oh, sorry, I'm looking at the Franklin Mint model while typing!

Working on that huge (all is relative) piece of wood won't be easy. First I have to take more measures from an existing car; however, I can begin with the length's profile which is set.

In between, I began the radiator. The upper water tank is ready.

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EXCELLENT! A Mark II woody!!

[Roger Zimmermann]

EXCELLENT! A Mark II woody!!

But a little crude, isn't it?

[Roger Zimmermann]

Last Saturday,

I took some wood away as the will be pattern is too wide. With some machines

from a woodwork the correct width could be done in 3 minutes; I had a couple of

hours to diminish one side by 5 mm with hand tools which belonged once to my

father. No need to do some body building after that! I still have to do the

other side but, as I can only do it at my garage/store room, it has to wait a

bit; I'm not going there each day.

The last few days, I continued with the radiator and front end cradle. This

"U" shaped part is responsible for holding the whole front clip;

therefore I did it thicker as I would do otherwise.

As you can also see on the pictures, I did also the "brace - front fender

apron to radiator support" as it's labeled on a drawing I have. This brace

will be bent downwards and rearwards; this will be done when I have the front

fenders.

When I positioned the radiator on the cradle and brace assembly, I noticed that

the radiator neck is not in the middle of the upper water tank! Despite all the

measures and attention I still can goof!

I'm not totally sure, but I will probably correct it by grinding the neck away

and soft soldering another one. It's frustrating to spend hours to get the

proper shape to notice days later almost by accident that the thing is

misplaced...

The next job will be to do the radiator's tubes; I will have time to think

about the neck.

<o:p> </o:p>

[jazzer3]

Rodger, that third photo would fool most people as to being a (full size) car. I was going to say a (real car) but could not as what you are building is a real car. Really Really Nice!

Jay

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thank you Jay! The picture would fool most people if the parts were painted. That time will come; I just don't know when!

[SeventhSon]

Astonishing, really, the work you do, Roger. You must be the most patient man on the planet!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Astonishing, really, the work you do, Roger. You must be the most patient man on the planet!

Thank you Chris! the construction of a model is like going somewere: you have the travel and the destination. Here, the travel, even if it's taking years, is more interesting that the destination.

I had more or less the same attitude when I restored my cars. The work involved was interesting; when the car is ready it can be driven but in my opinion the way to get there was the main motivation to buy the car(s). Not everybody is sharing my point of view, I know!

[oldcar]

Here, the travel, even if it's taking years, is more interesting that the destination.

I had more or less the same attitude when I restored my cars. The work involved was interesting; when the car is ready it can be driven but in my opinion the way to get there was the main motivation to buy the car(s).

Roger, I could not agree more, while we may be coming from a very different perspective I can appreciate what you are saying.

"Keep on keeping on"

Bj

[Roger Zimmermann]

Roger, I could not agree more, while we may be coming from a very different perspective I can appreciate what you are saying.

Bj

Oh Bernie! You are also looking at my travel? I do appreciate it, especially considering the comments you did some days ago about cars from the fifties.

[oldcar]

Hello again Roger

I believe that, life would be very boring if we all agreed about everything! However there must be times when we can look at something and say "Yes I agree with what is being said here"

"Keep on keeping on"

Bj.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Hello again Roger

I believe that, life would be very boring if we all agreed about everything!

Bj.

I only can say you are right!

[SeventhSon]

Agreed, Roger - it's the journey, not the destination so much. I was just thinking about that the other day - when I was much younger I had friends and knew of some other guys who would undertake the "fixing up" of an old car. The months, and sometimes years, would pass by and the car would get nicer and nicer. Then, just when it looked complete and all fixed up, they would sell it! I never could figure that out - until I figured out basically what you said. The fun is in the fixing it up! Like all the fun I'm having with the old Avanti

[Landman]

I'm ready to bet though Chris, that like me you are going to drive, and drive, and drive. Mine will never be for sale. Although I could see me doing another that would likely get sold.

[SeventhSon]

Pat, you're right when you say I'm going to drive and drive and drive. Sometimes I can't believe I actually own the car that hooked me so many years ago - it really is a good feeling. I just want to keep her alive and running as long as I can.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Winter has hit Switzerland; it's a good time to stay home and do modeling! The radiator story went further. Once the upper and lower tanks were attached by the side members, it was time to continue with the tubes. Of course, I'm not doing tubes, for what? And, another liberty, there are no 3 row-tubes, but just one as in my application only the front and rear can be seen. What is in the middle is not important...

Two rods will keep the "tubes" together, they will not be seen when the cooling fins will be installed.

The first picture is showing the "special" tools I did to assemble the tubes together. The assembly of the tubes is on the second pictures and the third one is showing the core which is ready to be adjusted and installed between both tanks. And the last pictures are showing the almost end result. A light coat of primer was sprayed on the radiator because, depending the material I will be using for the fins, the cleaning will be next to impossible.

By the way, I relocated the filler neck...

Now, the challenge is to find a suitable solution for the cooling fins

[Roger Zimmermann]

The sole method I retained is the same I used on the Toronado: paper. It takes a long time to fold small bands of paper: since one week I'm inserting the fins between the tubes, half is done. Honestly, the result is not first class, I know. Especially at the junction near the transverse bars, but once painted black and in position into the body, it will hardly be seen.

The method with foil would have certainly be better looking but, as the distance between the tubes is not exactly the same everywhere, some difficulties could have been expected.

Conclusion: nobody is perfect!

The picture is showing the partially completed radiator and the tools I'm using.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Yesterday I could finish the radiator; I'm satisfied at 70%. Fortunately, it won't be easily visible. On a much older car when the radiator was seen, what I did would not be acceptable. Fortunately, in a car from the fifties, the radiator is difficult to see, even with the open hood.

[Roger Zimmermann]

This is now the time to do the A/C condenser as this element is attached to the cradle, in front of the radiator. What you see is the frame with some tubing's ends at the rear of the condenser. They will be silver soldered to the sides. The front ones will go across the frame; they will probably be seen. As I doubt that the rear ones could also be seen I'm just doing the external tubes. I noticed that the tubes are not parallel with the frame's top to help the gas/liquid to go down. "My" tubes will be parallel, a huge simplification!

[dan at larescorp]

I have been following this thread for a quite a while now. The only word I can use to describe what I'm seeing is WOW! Keep up the great work. You're an artist.

[Sweepspear]

Still watching the progress Roger.

This is the only thread on any board I have ever subscribed to for updates, it's that good!

Really looking forward to seeing the body come together!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thank you Dan and Dale! You just have to be patient...The body work will begin after winter as I cannot go to my store room/workshop, it's too cold. I must take some wood away from the piece I showed some time ago; I cannot do that in the flat whre I do all the other tasks.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Again, this is a part more complicated to make as a model than anticipated. You saw the frame; I had to think about how to continue without creating a mess. First, the supports. They are silver soldered on the side of the condenser, not too complicated as a job.

Then, I had to solder the top and bottom cover to one side; the threaded bores for the 0.5 mm screws are not very strong and the screws are turning but not clamping...A thicker material would improve the situation, but not the appearance.

Then, I did the "tubes". Two of them will go through the opposite side, all the other are cut to barely touch the inner wall of the side member. The inserted fins will align the "tubes"; the assembly should be good looking. At least, I hope so!

The next job will be to do a jig to bore the fins. I calculated there will be about 180 pieces; they will be bored by group of 10 pieces at once.

Then the fun will begin: to insert them one by one on the 16 "tubes" which are, by nature, not exactly opposite to the holes of the fins!

The second picture is showing the condenser installed on the cradle by the upper brackets. No, I did not an error with too short lower brackets: they are screwed on the horn's supports, which are not yet done.

Edited December 23, 2012 by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)

[Landman]

No, I did not an error with too short lower brackets: they are screwed on the horn's supports, which are not yet done.

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Roger, it is a good thing you tell us about your errors because not one of us would be able to spot them and we would continue to think you are perfect. Fascinating project!!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Happy New Year to all! Have fun in 2013 but, first of all, a good health.

[Lahti35]

As a model builder and full size car restorer I can appreciate the work and time you are putting into this project... Excellent work!

[Barry Wolk]

Roger, I was clearing out some files and came across a magazine from September of 2006 called "Americaines Classiques". The publication of the American Car Club de France. I was trying to figure out why I was saving the magazine when I came across the article "Une Toronado miniature-Ou la recherché de la perfection-". I wish I understood what they wrote about your model. I went further and saw a translation of an article I wrote about WCF's hot rod Mark II.

In your copious free time, would you consider translating and posting the article on your masterpiece?

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[Roger Zimmermann]

To Lahti35: Thank you!

To Barry: I will publish the translation here when it's finished. It will probably take some time as I have to check the spelling when I'm back home; you will understand what I mean by looking at the Mark II forum; I posted the first page this afternoon. By the way, I wrote myself the French text...

[Roger Zimmermann]

As promised, here is the more or less correct translation from the French text.

A scaled down Toronado

or, the research for

perfection

When I was a kid, cars were a passion, especially the ones

coming from the USA. My parents, with their small financial possibilities (we

were not far away from the Second World War), gave me toys. At that time, they

were usually made from sheet metal and I was not pleased with them: the doors

could not be opened and the steering wheel was not even there.

Since I was

able to do something myself, I tried to replace what was not available with some

own creations: frame with a Meccano toy kit and a body with cardboard. It was a

small improvement but hardly better. In 1963, I began the construction of a

Studebaker Avanti, scale 1:12. The frame was very crude, made with sheet metal,

wheels again from Meccano. During my apprenticeship, a colleague said that I

should do the body with polyester and fiberglass. My first experiences with that

new material were not always what I expected, but, with some time and practice,

I could master the technique and build a body which was satisfying.

Once the

model was finished, I fell in love with the new '66 Oldsmobile Toronado which

was just introduced in Switzerland. The decision was: this will be my next

model.

To build the Avanti, I had only some pictures and only few keys

dimensions, resulting in a very imprecise rendering of the real car. To avoid

that frustration, I went a Saturday to a GM dealer in a town called Lausanne;

they had a dark red Toronado with white trim in their showroom. I could take

pictures and measure all I could during the afternoon. (I was 21 years old at

that time)

I took also the decision to assemble the model like the real car:

if an element is attached with screws, the same element will also be attached

with screws on the model. Another decision was to motorize the model with an

electric motor embedded into the V8 shape made with polyester; this was the

first element to be constructed. To approach the reality, I wanted also an

automatic clutch; a centrifugal clutch was the answer. I needed also a

transmission and a differential. As the Toronado was a front wheel drive, I

suspected that this would not simplify the task.

As the small electric motor

had not much power, I had to limit the friction wherever possible. As

Switzerland is the country of small items, I discovered in Bienne a manufacturer

of very small ball bearings which size was corresponding to my needs. I don't

remember how many ball bearings are included in the model, probably about 20 of

different sizes.

In 1970, I went to work for GM in Bienne. By luck, I

discovered some documents and drawings; they allowed me to complete the engine

and transmission. Even more interesting: by discussing about my project with my

boss, he requested some documents at Oldsmobile and, some month later, I got all

blueprints scale 1:1 from the frame and underbody!

In the meantime, I

began the body. I had the chance to measure a car located in the region (at that

time a bicycle was my sole vehicle, I could not go very far to get

information).

The body began life as a positive form made with plaster from

which I did negative molds with polyester and fiberglass.

The various parts

for the body were molded again with polyester from the negative forms.

I had

also a problem with crews: the ones available were much too large. By luck, a

friend's father was in the watch industry and he gave me all the screws I

wanted. They had a diameter between 0.6 mm and 0.8 mm; I had to buy drills and

taps corresponding to the screws. My heart was going fast the first time I did a

bore of 0.48 mm; with practice it became a routine, even if some bits and taps

broke.

The blueprints from GM allowed me to do a very detailed floor.

Most of the transverse rails were done with brass as the polyester is not very

kind with small details and the material is not suitable for screws. Once the

floor attached to the body (without the front fenders as they are separate and

assembled with screws), I began the frame's construction with brass. I let you

imagine how difficult it was to spread the frame drawing in a small flat...It

was "only" about 4 meters in length. What? Only 4 meters? but the car is longer

than that! This is right, but the frame of the Toronado is not a full frame, it

ends at the beginning of the rear springs which are longitudinal leaves; the

rear of the car is considered as a unitized body.

If the rear suspension

was rather easy to do, it was a different matter with the front one: torsion

bars and ball joints were a novelty for me. As the vehicle was far away from

being finished, therefore the final weight was difficult to evaluate, which was

the right diameter for the steel shaft? A first tentative was soon discarded as

to stiff. With a slightly smaller diameter, I found a compromise which is still

right.

And the ball joints? Indeed, it's not that complicated: one has to

turn a small shaft with a thread at the end, a little drop of silver solder at

the other end, then mill that drop in a manner that a steel ball is not rolling

away, (dentist mills are perfect tools for that) squeeze both parts with a

little tool, heat the whole until the silver solder is flowing and it's done!

Then the shaft is inserted into a body made with brass, then the open end of the

body is squeezed to avoid that the ball is coming out and you have a perfect

ball joint! There are some on this model: four for the front suspension and 6

smaller for the steering linkage; a real serial work!

When I planned the

model's construction, hydraulic brakes were part of the game. This was indeed a

funny idea which was abandoned due, for me, to unavailable technology. Only the

parking brake survived: it is activated with the emergency brake pedal and

released by pulling a lever, like the real car.

Once the frame was done,

it was then possible to build the front end of the car: fenders, hood, radiator

cradle and the retractable headlamp system; all these elements are assembled

with screws, as you can imagine.

The next problem was the side windows.

The base model had manual windows but, as an option, electric window lifts were

offered. Then, we will do electrical window lifts! To guide the windows is not

too complicated; the difficulty was to find the right electrical motors. At the

rear, they had to be short, but their diameter could be rather large because the

arm rests allowed the motors to exceed the body's shape. It was the contrary for

the doors: the diameter had to be small but they could be long. I found the rear

ones in a toy shop, with the proper reduction; the ones for the front came from

a company specialized in small motors for the industry. The actuation for the

windows is done with a strong cotton wire, forming a closed loop, winding and

unwinding on a drum as I did successfully on the Avanti. And, what would happen

if a wire broke? No big deal: as everything is attached with screws, a repair is

always possible.

The inside trim (seats and side panels) was rather easy

to build: seats are done with polyester and covered with very thin leather. Side

panels are brass; the whole effect is rather realistic thanks to some astute.

The carpeting is done with black velour glued on the floor.

If the wheels

in aluminum were done a very long time ago, I still had no clue about the tires.

Fortunately, the solution came during a vacation trip to the USA: I found in the

Harras museum shop a book from a known modeller; the process of doing tires was

very well described in that book. I will skip the method as it would take so

much space. You just have to know that the process is long, failures are too

often but, at the end, the result was almost perfect. After so many years, the

car could be at least on its wheels!

The various parts to be chromed were

done between various tasks. Of course brass was used; it's a so easy material to

work with! Only few problems could be reported, with one exception: the front

bumper was done twice. When the first one was finished, I saw a real car and

noticed that my interpretation of the pictures I had was wrong. I wanted to

rescue the bumper but I realized that a new construction would be quicker: once

silver soldered, it's very difficult to remove an element without to distort the

basis as the needed temperature makes the brass very soft.

1982 was a

turning point: my enthusiasm was eroded: I just bought my first real car to

restore, a 1956 Cadillac Sedan de Ville, but this is another story...

The

model stayed more or less abandoned except during the winter when it was too

cold to work on the real car. Therefore, progress was very slow: I did the paint

of frame and body in...1998. The final assembly was done much later and the last

details were added in 2000!

To this day, the electrical system is not

finished because the model became too complex and fragile. Some actuators are

not reliable and repairs or adjustments are needed before a demonstration can be

done, disturbing the first visual impact.

To this day, the model is under

glass. Automotive inclined visitors don't miss it; even if they think that it

was not done in 3 weeks, they have no idea about the incredible number of hours

needed to complete a 44 cm long object!

Do I have some frustration? No! The

time to restore real cars is over and I'm now in the process of refreshing my

first real car model, the Avanti. I spent already 3 years on that model which

will be more realistic than before. I just hope that the model will be ready for

the 50 year anniversary of the Avanti!

Of course, the Avanti is over, the

Mark II is now in! Some errors I did with the Toronado will be avoided with that

model like for example a different voltage for the front and rear motors for the

window lifts! <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

[John Byrd]

Mr. Z., your talent, patience, and both material and verbal presentation is so refreshing. I honestly think that if I could hang around someone to just look and listen to, it would be you. Thank you sir for sharing all you have so far with us. I have built models since 1958 and do love them, but have never been inclined or probably able to do what you do, guess you could call me a "cosmetic" modeler. If it looks good on the shelf, it seems OK, ha !. I have met one gentleman in Knoxville, Tennessee that also makes very detailed models and the one he was working on when I met him was going to the Indy museum - -do you know of him ? Of course I don't remember his name, but he was a policeman at the time. You're a real inspiration sir, thanks, John

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thank you John for your comments. Everytime people are calling me "Mr." or "Sir" I'm a little disconcerted! You know, I'm not sitting on a chair and greeting people like a king or the pope...I'm just sitting at a desk, trying to build something I like! I began with Meccano and cardboard bodies a little earlier than you and about 1960, I began also to buy plastic kits. I have some; but they are not especially well build. Like yours, they are just good looking, but not in detail.

I had no contact with other modelers; it changed about 3 years ago when a man from England took contact with me after looking at my thread here. Now, I have more contacts as I'm showing my contruction to a forum called Scalemotorcars. Most of the people here are modifying large plastic kits either with styrene or brass. I'm always surprised how quick they can build a model...

I'm afraid, I cannot put a name on that person from Knoxville. I saw recently a Duesenberg scale 1:6 from a Mr. Louis Chenot. If you go here: The Internet Craftsmanship Museum You will maybe see that person. The first time I visited that virtual museum, I was amazed at the number of fools like me doing replicas from cars, boats, airplanes, machines...

Anyway, thank you for looking at my model; have a nice time in Hawaii!

[Roger Zimmermann]

This was a long job. The frame, as seen on the previous pictures, was the easy part! Then came the story with the fins. I had the idea to use .2 mm transparent plastic, painted silver one side and to stack them into the available space. The paint sould represent the fin itself and the transparent plastic...well, the space between 2 fins. Even if the end result is not that bad, it's not the way I expected: the plastic I used is not crystal clear and the paint is not thick enough...

This is a quick story of what I did: first, cut from that plastic foil about 200 fins. Then I did a tool to stack them outside the condenser to get them at the proper dimension.

Another tool was needed to drill the necessary holes into each fin.

When they were ready, a thin coat of paint was sprayed on each fin, and then they were placed one by one into the first tool to scrape the paint on the small sides.

About 165 fins were then inserted into the condenser's frame; I'm glad it's over! I could close the unit by adding the previously prepared side member and attach it with four .5 mm screws. As the result with the fins is not exactly the way I expected, I had to build other details to distract the eye!

Once this plumbing was added, the previously installed side member cannot be removed anymore. I will have to mask the fins for painting.

As it's still too cold in my store room to continue the wood's work, I will begin soon both heater motors.