vintchry

Thanks for checking, Rob

Richard, Does it have a glove box door and hinge? Any dash knobs? Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Somebody had fun assembling this wonderful collection

Suggest check with Then and Now Automotive 781-335-8860 or North Western Auto Parts, Grand Rapids, MI Either may be able to help you. Rob

From the casting mark on the head that is probably a Dodge DD or DH, Chrysler did not use DB castings that I am aware of. Rob

Bob, I have some 31 PA parts, wood wheels, steering column with wheel and center control, other pieces, contact me at hattiesgarage@comcast.net, central MD/Rob

Cross style u-joints are a dimension only, can be by application but the industry really goes bu dimensions and style (outside clip, inside clip, wing style etc) and if you do not have a good auto parts store with a dimensional U-joint book and calipers, look for a shop that does truck driveshaft rebuilding. You will need an old one or both if they are not the same. Also Spicer has a very good website that is user friendly and very helpful. Rob

Are you trying to use the original ball and cup style or does yours have a cross style ujoint? Are you driving or showing? If driving I have found an new made to order shaft that fits without modification is very affordable as opposed to the parts and pieces to rebuild the old unit. Sometimes the rebuild kits are found on Ebay if you need the original style.Rob

Moose, Typically one gasket on each mounting surface. Get gaskets that fit as snug as possible on the bolt thread or shoulder depending on location, and be prepared to tighten everything again after you have put in fluid. Rob

Great idea, thank you.

Found it, there is a socket screw,, behind the dash, underneath, when the panel is out you can see it, but it the car it is almost non-obtainable. Now to the other switches........ By the way, I have a new switch, but would like a nice knob for the headlamp switch. Rob

OK, it seems so simple but for the life of me I cannot get the knobs off the light and dash switches. I know there is a secret, but it is not obvious. Any help? How about a nice headlamp switch, the one I have has been marred previously in an attempt before I got the car. Thanks, Rob

Bill, Why do you want to paint your wheels, the CJ had painted and natural spokes avail in 1930. If you leave natural you may wish to consider a stripe on the spoke, well actually if you paint them you will definitely want to stripe them. Many examples are available on the web. Since I got my Windows 10 I cannot figure out how to send or actually retrieve photos that used to be in albums, but that is another discussion. Email me and I will send you photos of either set up. But to answer your question, yes you need to remove the drums and loosen the hubs, but not remove them, lots and lots and lots of sanding, priming, cutting around the spokes at the rim with a razor or exacto knife with each priming, put on a base color, tap the hub back in place and finish painting. Then you paint your drums and install, tighten and peen the drum and hub bolts and then stripe. See how easy it is?!!!!! Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Have you checked with the Chevrolet people or Buick? May already be done. Rob

Bill, Check with Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA or check out your local Model A shop, you may be fortunate there. Good luck, Rob

I used one of the filters from Bob's on my 28 Chrysler. It is exactly like the original, except you can actually use it and not worry about the top casting leaking or worry about how long you can use the filter. With the replacement element it gives you the beat of both worlds, looks like it should, even comes with the correct decal. By the way my Chrysler is 1 of 1, a Babcock Body Estate Wagon, Good luck, which ever way you go. Rob PS email and I will forward a picture of a NOS B2 AC filter if you are interested. hattiesgarage@comcast.net

I apparently do not have an address to send you a check for the very nice pieces you sent. Contact me at hattiesgarage@comcast.net, Thanks Rob

Typically with the center rod and plates at each end those are probably 31-33 closed cars. The rod supports the end plates against the frame of the window opening, tightening to give them the tension needed to hold a position and not flop around. If the top and bottom are tapered, then my thought is 32-33, by 34 many cars were coming out with vent windows and these were obsolete then. Biflex made many accessories for cars in the 20's and early 30's. For what it is worth, Rob

Have you checked at the Phila Free Library, Detroit Public Library (Automotive Collection) or the Library of Congress? Rob

I believe the correct engine color for this series is black, technically probably a semi gloss, but the accepted thing is gloss black. Somewhere around 1928 the 72's got a gray green that was used in various forms thru the 33 Chrysler 8 . Now before everybody goes running off in different directions, I base this on the following: an unrestored 28 Model 72 engine and transmission had the mentioned colors on them, as did a 31 CD, 31 CD 3rd Series and a 33 CT the last are all 8 cylinder, but not the big Imperial engines, At the same time on a 26 and 28 Series 60 and 62 6 cylinder again unrestored engines we found definitely a semi gloss black. Cylinder heads as Rusty pointed out are silver if marked "Silver Dome" or red if marked "Red Head", otherwise they are engine color. Now may the fun begin,,,,,,,,,, By the way a former chief engineer from Chrysler said that engine color was never an engineering code, in the 50's, 60's and 70's when he was deeply involved. more fun.........

Often times an air wrench will take the nut off. I am very reluctant to use one, but find with transmission flange nuts and pinion flange nuts this saves alot of effort and problems. Rob

Send me an email or call, I am interested. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net 240.344.2922

Thanks Keiser, I will admit they are rare. I have a customer in your neighborhood that needs your assistance. Contact me at hattiesgarage@comcast.net Rob

Thanks Harry, I really like the clearance for mains and rods as "slight drag" Very helpful tho. Rob

I wasn't aware the 31 Plymouth PA had cowl lamps. Rob