vintchry

I have some 33 CO engines complete. 34 is not the same but this will be closer for you. If interested, Rob 240-344-2922

I believe it is for a 38. Rob

These do slide off. No screws, mine were very tight and tough to get both off and on, if I remember correctly it goes up, not forward or backwards. It has been 4 years since mine were off and on so memory remembers the difficulty but not the direction. Rob

Typically these are 1000 Mazda light bulbs. This was a standard number for bulbs regardless of manufacturer. Typically 32/32 candlepower. Model A headlamp bulbs are fine but will not have the ribs. I would suggest a 50/32 candlepower, gives you a better high beam. Old bulbs are around but getting harder to find. Rob

Marty, Try Then and Now in Weymouth, MA, 781-335-8860, Rob

When you get the chance, try driving the car without the floor boards in place, with a good hearing passenger. Sometimes you can isolate the noise to a specific area. Rob

Myers Early Dodge Parts, Rob

The hope is we are getting older, the hobby has always been older with the exception of second or 3rd generations generally. As we age the discretionary money is available. The younger people are either more into the current or newer "antiques" or "tuners". At least some are showing an interest. From the stories out there, the concern is over the lack of interest in owning anything, houses, cars, boats motorcycles etc. The auto industry worried about this almost 10 years ago. Seems to be more of an Urban problem than suburban or rural. Just my thoughts. Rob

Harold, Suggested clearances for an engine that has not been used of .010 and .009 would be my recommendation. This is not the last time you are going to be in there even if all is well the first time around. I take a length of masking tape and put it on the side of the head, then I mark I or E for each valve and the gap I am using on the first one of each. That way you are not guessing midway thru of which is which. In a previous email you mentioned using some old valves over, which is fine and lapped as you have. Did I read correctly you were going to use some Intake in Exhaust locations? I hope not as Exh valves have a different material construction than Intakes, and Intakes will burn quickly in an Exhaust position. Enough to run and check on this engine but not to leave in place. Good luck on this and i hope I have not confused you . Rob

Dan, Unless my eyes are deceiving me, it appears that the headlamps have peaks at the top of the headlamp door. That would make this a 24-early 25 "B" . it also appears to have a one piece windshield, which again depending on the body builder is of the same era. Hope this helps. Rob

When the injection was changed at the dealer it came as a kit with carb, manifold, gas tank, fuel pump, NEW INSTRUMENT cluster, computer, fuel lines and all gaskets. I am not interested in downing this very nice car. This is just information that those of us that had owned these are aware of. It certainly does not diminish this car and was a certified repair by the dealer. Wonderful cars for the modern era. With the change over they make very dependable and usable cars. I wish Matt all the success in find a new home for this car, it will certainly make a new owner a fine vehicle. Some cars were done almost at point of sale, but the kit did not come out in 1981. I am not aware of the date of these kits becoming available. I am sure some one else will know. Again Matt, your points are well taken, it just was the way the factory recommended the change.

Matt, Not to be a naysayer, but if it was factory (Dealer) converted to carb then the mileage is since the conversion. The original mileage should be on a sticker sometimes on the back of the speedometer and sometimes on the door post. I had several of these, including cars running on the original FI. Good cars, underrated and underappreciated. I decided to go older and sold all of the ones I had (4 at one point) . Good luck. Rob

Will get and post. Thanks

i have a friend looking for the spring on the cowl vent/hood vent door. Apparently he is missing one. Any to be had? Thanks, Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

I am certain someone has run into this before. On a 39 LaSalle in my shop when shifting from first to second it hangs up. Sometimes finding first or reverse can be a trial. The shop manual does not cover this as a wear factor, only new adjustments and that is not working. What do I look for, it certainly feels that the problem is in the area under the steering column. Any help will be appreciated. Rob

1933 Chrysler 6-8 if memory serves me right. Rob

Back in the late 60's at the Old Car Festival in Dearborn my dad took his nice unrestored 25 DB Type B Business Sedan. Elmer Neeb was an old timer that had worked at Dodge Main and various dealers over the time and when he looked at the engine (the strange green color) his immediate comment was how correct the color was. So I will go with Elmer's opinion as he saw them new and in process. Also the pans on a lot of the slow 4's were galvanized and not painted. But I have learned along time ago to not set cast in stone that this was the only way they were done. Another friend that was chief engineer of Dodge Truck said that engine color was never an engineering code, and as such what was in the vat was the color of the day! Rob

Can anybody shed some light on this fine machine shop? Noted for doing babbit work, the phone listed is no longer in service and we were hoping to get some work done there. Rob

Yes John, it was the maroon one. I am going Ravenswood Brown and Imperial Champaign Tan with a Bronze stripe, bedford cord interior. Lots done, it is just not in a place to photograph or I would try to add photos. Rob

There was one for sale on the forum a few years ago, I bought it and is in a current state of restoration. Chassis is done and body is ready for paint. One of 250 built according to a couple of Chrysler books. And yes I am putting on twin rear mounted spares, glad some one else thinks along the same lines. Hope to finish it up in a year to year and a half. If the radiator shell is correct that must be a Dodge, very unusual and IMO a very good looking automobile. Rob

Try Fort Wayne Clutch in Fort Wayne Indiana. Sorry I don't have there phone number at my finger tips, but they will reline you disc and rebuild your pressure plate. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

For F&J, Yes the clutch/brake pedals are mounted on a common clutch /throw out bearing shaft and sleeve. the brake pedal rides on the sleeve, the clutch is keyed onto the throw out shaft and has and adjustable collar that also is keyed to the throw out bearing shaft. Chrysler also has the floating power (as does the Plymouth) but in 8 cylinder form has much less vibration and shaking. Manuel, you may have better luck converting to LH drive than finding and open CD series car, they seldom come up for sale. 24Chry48 also has a complete front axle (LH Drive) so really if you're willing to put in the work it is all available. Rob

Check with Tom and Then and Now Automotive, Weymouth MASS, 781-335-8860 Rob

I have the front axle and spindles, tie rod end and bell housing for your conversion. Harold in Canada has a 3rd series steering column. Rob

I thought the "S" was the horn contact or tension retaining wire and a metal cover goes over the rubber, Chevrolet used this for a number of years. Rob