61polara

Very rare. These were continued post war with only a different plastic center using the post war emblem. Note that the wheel was turned when the car was parked, so the wheel is upside down. Tough choice, do you have the wheel or dash upside down in the photo!

Check out this post for some additional information. http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1938-buick-brakes-wont-build-pressure-338453.html

You should have plenty. Just remember, brake fluid is one of the best paint removers. If you spill some on paint, wipe it up and flush with water and you will be ok. Let us know how it goes.

And don't forget Mr. Toyoda (Toyota)

I agree with cben09, mosture in the brake fluid caused the rust ring and brown sludge in the cylinder. Does the other piston in the cylinder move freely or is it stuck? The rust in the sludge will cause the seal to leak. This is a good rebuildable cylinder. Don't throw it away! These are easly to rebuild and a rebuild kit is much cheaper than a cylinder. All your other cylinders most likely look like this and should be rebuilt as well. A basic repair manual will cover how to overhaul these cylinders. Check your service manual and see if a major adjustment is needed when you put the shoes back in place. Adjust all the brakes and you should have a great stopping Packard!

See the link below. Later Buicks went to a one key system, but yours is a two key set up. GM only used about 20-30 different keys up through the 60's, so call all your friends with 30's to 60's GM cars and offer them a prize if their key unlocks your car. I remember my Dad telling me the story of his friend with a '41 Chevrolet that had the same locks as Dad's '38 Pontiac and tricks he would pull on his friend. A few years back, a friend locked the keys in my '41 Chevrolet, so remembering this story, I went through my key box and my '48 Cadillac trunk key unlocked the Chevy door! You may be able to find an old time locksmith that still has a GM master set. http://forums.aaca.org/f162/lost-keys-1940-model-51-a-198429.html

There are four convertibles known. The trim strips on the fenders are unique to '42 DeSoto and are chrome plated steel rather than stainless. I've found quite a few parts on e-bay through the years. Sometimes it takes a sharp eye, because '42 parts may be advertised as '46-'48 and may not be the same. Looking forward to your additional pictures.

To tell if your wheel cylinder is in need of overhaul or replacement, it will look like the second photo when your remove the boot or may only be wet inside. No leakage was seen on the outside of the boot, just like your photo. The first photo is the same cylinder disassembled. It took a shot of compressed air to pop one piston out, then I could used the brass drift to tap the other piston out. This cylinder cleaned up fine and with an overhaul kit, was put back on the car. If one cylinder is bad, most likely they all are or close to it. I would change all of them and all three hoses. You might consider overhauling the master cylinder as well. Then you know you have been through every thing in the brakes. The tool in the third picture is the one used to remove the locks from the brake holding pins. It is called a "brake spring tool" in several catalogs I looked at.

Great find! The engine should be silver with black accesories. I would use dextron rather than type F.

I believe the Buicks of this period are a single key system in that the ignition, doors, trunk and glove box are all keyed the same. The glove box lock is the easiest to pull. Take it out. On some of these, once they are out you can get to the pins and determine the keying. On others, a key can be made by the impression method. Call the locksmiths in your area and see if they can make a key by the impression method, if not move over to another one. I've had a number of keys made this way.

You're at the point where the hydraulic pump should start running. The trip switch may not have made contact because it is out of adjustment. Hold the top switch in the up position and try lifting up on the deck lid and see if the pump starts. If not, it could be a bad pump, relay or switch. Try contacting the person who restored the hydraulics and relays.

Steve, Thank you for wanting to preserve your 560 SL as an HPOF vehicle. If the top is of the correct material and the appearance of the top is correct, you belive it is original and the judges agree, there would be no deduction. Polishing of the stainless trim is cleaning, so again no deduction. Repainting the wheels should be disclosed and would be considered for a deduction while replacing them with original wheels that have not been repainted would not be. If you replace the carpet with a better carpet set from another 560 SL there should be no deduction as long as it matches. If a newly manufactured carpet set is used, it should be a deduction. Replacement of belts, hoses, tires and other wearing rubber parts are maintenance and would not be a deduction, however, they should appear as original. The same goes for hose clamps, radial tires on a car not originally delivered with radials and other more modern updates, each would be deducted for. Your car seems to be a very good candidate for HPOF certification in 2014.

Per the factory manual torque to a minimum of 142 ft-lb. This high level of torque is needed to set the brake drum on the tapered axle shaft.

Knowing the year of your DeSoto will help us answer your questions.

You're thoughts may be right, check the fluid in the coupling. Also, did you have the parking brake on or are the brakes not releasing?

If you lost 100 lbs of freon in 2 days, I think you have a big leak since the system only holds about 4 lbs! Seriously, if you are talking high side pressure pounds with the system running, it's low on freon. Leak test it, fix the leaks and recharge. If you have air coming out of all but one of the dash vents, either the door is closed at the vent outlet or the air distribution tube has pulled off the vent.

John, you're right. To receive the National HPOF or DPC award along with the grill badge to mount on the car it must be a National AACA Meet. Local and Regional AACA shows may have a HPOF and DPC class, but they can not award the NATIONAL HPOF or DPC award. It's really worth the time to attend a National Meet. You will see cars you will not see any where else. I agree with you, my throphy is my car and sharing it with others along with the people I meet at the shows. If there are no modifications to your car, I would suggest you show it as HPOF.

RB We welcome you to show your Thunderbird in an AACA National Meet. There are only 6 or 7 National Meets a year, located throughout the country. These are the only shows you can receive an AACA award at. The next one in Pa is at Hershey on October 13. There was one earlier in Reading, PA in May. The Scranton Regional AACA Show was not a National Meet, so the local region or regions hosting the show can set their on rules. I'm assuming you are not a member of AACA National, because if you are, you receive notice of all the national meets in the "Antique Automobile" along with an information request card for each meet. The rules for showing your car are not complex or a "pain in the neck". You must: 1. Be a member of AACA National 2. Determine if you want your car class judged or evaluated in the "Unrestored" HPOF class or Driver class. 3. Preregister your car for the show. 4. Drive the car onto the show field, before the cut off time (usually 11:00 am) 5. Have a fire extinguisher visible with the car. 6. The rest is up to your car. You can do the first three steps on-line. Click on the AACA HOME button at the top of this screen. There you can join National (being a member of the Forum is not National Membership), find a local AACA region to join if you wish, see a list of the upcoming AACA National Meets for the next 2-3 years and register your car for a National Meet. To register you car for an AACA National Meet, you need your National Membership Number and PIN. These are printed on the mailer cover of the National Magizine "Antique Automobile". Cut off for registration is generally about 30 days before the event. Registration should be open for Hershey now. Here's the link to the judging manual, which describes the classes and judging forms an much other information needed by the judges. Judges Guidelines

I've found that many times it costs the same or not too much more to do it correctly. When looking at a car that has an incorrect interior, I'll deduct the full price to redo the interior from the value of a car in the same condition with a correct interior. In other words, I value an incorrect interior the same or less (depending on damage done, parts missing) than if the interior was a very worn original. Also, if you plan to upgrade, keep the parts you remove and keep modifications that are difficult to reverse to a minimum. This can help sell the car because the guy looking for an original car can change it back without having to look for all the parts you sold or tossed. He'll stil want to deduct from the value the cost to put it back. Good luck on your decision.

I haven't done the ones for a Riviera, but several ones on Cadillacs. They take some adjustment to fit right and in some cases cutting the factory plate with the studs in it. Fit them to the car, then paint them. Some are easier to install than others. It just takes the time to get them to fit right.

Those of us who show our cars in DPC have cars that we enjoy driving and are not generally detailed for point judging. In DPC the car is evaluated not point judged. In DPC, the vehicle needs to have the general appearance as when the vehicle was manufactured. No deduction is made for radial tires or halogen headlights, radio upgrades or aftermarket AC, all of which would be point deductions in class judging. In DPC, the vehicle is either certified or it is not. There is no First, Second or Third Place. In class judging, every car enters the field with 400 points. The judges deduct for items which do not appear as the car left the factory. This could be for incorrect part or condition of the part. You can download the AACA Judges Manual from the AACA home page and see the judging / evaluation form used in each class. Hope you make it to Canyon, which ever way you decide to show you car.

"the biggest concern I hear is "what will happen to our cars and our hobby when we go to the great wrecking yard in the sky?" An additional benefit of being part of a national organization is you will find a large pool of potential buyers for your car when the time comes to sell.

A dynaflow will seem to be slipping if you have not been around one before. Performace is not what you are use to in a gear start transmission. The car should pick up speed quickly and smoothly but won't brake your neck. Your dynaflow uses a two turbine converter with variable vanes that adjust based on the torque demand. All Buicks from '48 - '63 had dynaflow available. Try to find someone local who has one to see if your car is ok. Keep looking for independent transmission shops run by an old timer. He'll know what a dynaflow drives like.

Dynaflow does not shift. In drive it uses the torque converter only. Low is an emergency gearset for starting out on steep grades and not intended for use in every start. Your transmission is operating correctly.

Rusty, Do you have documentation on when Chrysler first went to tubeless tires? I thought there was an industry wide switch for the 1955 model year.