61polara

Hope you are planning on keeping it Sienne Blue. It's a great color that looks blue in some light and grey in other. This color was used by Cadilliac only in 1946 and only 1947 by Buick. I have a 1947 Roadmaster sedan in Sienne Blue. It's an HPOF car. These pictures are of the same Roadmaster in different light. Your car would look great in this color.

Found your answer. The 848 was manufactured by Philco, the 854 by Motorola. See the attached links. Mopar 848 Ch= P-5801 Car Radio Philco, Philadelphia Stg. Bat Mopar 854 Car Radio Motorola Inc.; Schaumburg IL, build

Hollander Interchange lists 848 849 and 854 as 12v 8 tube radios. 917HR is the 12v 9 tube signal seeking radio (electro touch tuner) and 925 is the standard 12v 9 tube radio. These were used in '57 and '58 Plymouths. The sales lit only indicates two radio options, standard push button and signal seeking.

Sounds like the cut out points in the regulator are sticking closed.

There is enough fex in the springs that you do not have to remove them. Unbolt the sway bar and the shock links. I've hooked a come-a-long around the rear axle and the other end to the trailer hitch on another vehicle. With the come-a-long you can pull the axle / torque tube back far enough to remove the transmission. Far easier than disconnecting the brake lines, e-brake cable and springs to roll the rear end out as the shop manual states. Good luck!

Did you change out all three brake hoses? They may be restricted. I've seen old brake hoses swell up to the point that a pencil lead would not fit inside. I'll find a picture of one I removed from my '47 Roadmaster when I find it. These cars have very good brakes.

Look under the fender below the rear side window. They should be where the body side turns under the car. There should be one on each side. Run a screwdriver up into the holes and the water should flow out.

I have to agree with Jim. I've had more master cylinders fail unexpectedly than a wheel cylinder. The best thing you can do is check the fluid on a regular basis. If it is dropping, you have a problem somewhere.

You may get a better response if you tell us the year and anything else you know.

I think your problem may be a little deeper than the diaphragm. What you are calling the Vacuum Pull Cable is actually the freewheeling lock-out cable. The purpose of this pull out knob is to allow push starting of a car with Vacamatic transmissions. When the car is stopped, the transmission is either in first or third gear, depending on the shift lever position. Both of these gears are freewheeling gears, which allows for the gear speed differences for the shift to occur. Second and fourth speed are non-freewheeling gears. The only way to get the transmission into a non-freewheeling gear is for the tranmission to shift on its own, via getting the car up to speed, lifting your foot off the gas and letting the vacuum valve do the shift. This can't happen if the car is not running. Chrysler provided the freewheeling lock-out so you could push start the car and have the rear wheels turn the engine. Pulling out the spring loaded lock-out knob, manually moves the transmission from freewheeling first or third to non-freewheeling second or fourth allowing the car to be push started. The recommended procedure from the Chrysler shop manual is: "Shift the manual shift lever in the "Low Speed Position", depress the clutch pedal, pull out lock-out cable, and turn on ignition switch. When towed car reaches approximately 5 to 10 miles per hour, engage the clutch, when the engine starts, release the lock out cable, which is spring loaded and will return to its normal position. THIS IS AN EMERGENCY CONTROL, AND THE CABLE MUST NEVER BE PULLED OUT EXCEPT WHEN IT IS DESIRED TO START THE ENGINE BY TOWING THE CAR." With this said, the lever may be stuck in the lock-out position, meaning you are already in second or fourth gear. Get under the car and make sure the lever on the transmission has moved back to to released position. If it has moved back, I suspect you have damaged something internal in the transmission. Good luck. Let us know what you find.

Telll us more about what you have, such as year, model, body style and maybe some of us can give you some guidance.

You want to pry on the chrome ring around the plastic, not the plastic part of the button.

Located a few more pictures including chipping the cars out of snow and ice on the deck. Other local tales say that quite a few were hidden in the woods and later seen driven all over the UP.

Local residents said that Chryslers kept on washing up on shore over the next few months and ran and drove perfectly! The Keewenaw History Museum car is one of those from the shipwreck although the Museum's caption is misleading. Many of the cars were sold locally and others apparently shipped back to Detroit.

On November 30, 1926 the "City of Bangor" grounded in a major storm on the tip of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in Lake Superior. She was carring a shipment of 248 new Chryslers from Detroit to Duluth. The winds blew her sideways into the coast. In the storm, several Chryslers blew off deck, but most were safe in the hold. The ship was covered in ice. It took until February 1927 to chop throught the ice and drive the over 200 remaining Chryslers off the ship over an ice ramp to land. The cars were driven single file to Calumet, MI and later sold in the open market.

My '67 Ford F100 has the switch on the left and this was a new body design.

Old time joke........ Wooden Frame Wooden Axle Wouldn't Run! ....Brush! Looks like this one is running fine

Thanks guys, after further research I agree its a 1918 or 1919.

That would make since. His wife died in 1920 and I believe he bought the car before that. Thanks

These are two photos of a Maxwell owned by my grandfather. Any help identifying the year and model is appreciated. Any one know how to get these photos to post horizontal? Thanks

kiwi56r, I understand your concerns about overseas restorations. We are in weekly and sometimes daily contact with our restorer in Thailand via e-mail, photos and skype. In addition, we make periodic trips over to work directly with the restorer. We have about 1,000 photos of each car in process sent during the restoration. I don't want to hijack this thread, because it's going in a very good direction and would like it to continue on the shop vs self restoration cost. If you or anyone else would like to make additional comment on this, I'd be glad to start a new post in the General Topics section. Thanks!

Producion, all series combined 1934 Airflow 2,450 1934 CA & CB 25,252 1935 Airflow 7,751 1935 C6 & CZ 33,755 1936 Airflow 6,285 1936 C7 & C8 52,946 Price was another important factor. In 1935, the highest volume year for the Airflow, the base price of the highest volume selling Airflow was $1,245 while the C6 Airstream Six was $860. In comparison, in 1935 Buick Series 40 sold 38,520 cars in the Airstream price range and 6,536 Series 50 cars in the Airflow price range. I've never believed the Airflow was a flop but rather lower sales volume because of higher price. 1937 Airflow 5,800 1937 C17 & C14 100,320

I gave my 19 year old nephew a membership to AACA for Christmas today. He was very excited and wanted to know more about what this was all about. He's been interested in cars all his life and on his 16 birthday I gave him the last new car his Grandfather bought, a 1988 Oldsmobile Toronado Trafeo, which he loves. He's been to many shows with me with his father (my brother) and I explained which were AACA National verses local shows and he started to understand the meaning of an AACA membership. Then I explained that in 2013, he could start showing the Toronado he was even more excited. Then I explained the rule change that will let him show it in the HPOF class and what that is all about. He's trying to get his Dad to join AACA so they can show Dad's MGB and the Toronado at the same show in 2012!

On the other end of the spectrum, I'm involved in a test of sending cars to Bangkok, Thailand for restoration and the first one is now an AACA Senior car and won an award at Meadowbrook. Before I'm bashed for sending work overseas, let me state that we have no restoration facility in the US, but use other shops to do the final 5-10% needed to get the cars show ready. Four cars have been completed so far and we have carefully selected what we are sending over in terms of market value. We've found that if the car has a restored value of $100,000, we can bring the cost in below that amount, including the purchase price of the car. These are full, frame off restorations of cars needing extensive metal work. We supply the parts from US sources, so our cost is the same there. In our next variation of this, we are sending the body only for metal work, body work and paint. We will do the sub assemblies here as well a the final assembly. Projected dollars look good, even considering the shipping cost. We have four more cars in holding to be restored there. With each one, we are improving the process. We'll see how this works out.

Paul T Nice Buick!