61polara

For a full frame off restoration you are looking at about 1500 - 2500 hours whether you do it yourself or send it out, so there is a substantial savings if you have the time and ability to do it yourself. One option not mentioned so far, is to look at your local communtiy colleges and see what is available. At one end of the spectum are the classes where you work on college project cars. These are good to fine tune or learn the basic skills. Learning to do body work and paint on a project Honda will make you ready to jump on your on project more effectivly. In other programs, you can actually work on your own vehicle. You have full use of the shop equipment and paint booths along with a professional instructor to guide you. Based on the program, your use of the facilities may work out to about $2.00 and hour and usually the schools have very good discount arrangements with material and paint suppliers. I taught a paint and body restoration class at a local community college for 10 years, offered on Friday nights and Saturday mornings. Eight hours a week. A frame off was difficult to do because of the space it would occupy, that was needed by other classes during the week, but we could work around that by pulling the body, storing the body at the owner's home and the owner hauling the frame back and forth each week. Not the best way to do it, but it did work and was cheap for the student. The other benefit of going the community college route if you have never done a restoration before is that you will find out if you have the ability to do it. Some people can do good body work or good paint and others can do both well. Then there are those who can not "feel" the body work imperfections or "see" how the paint lays down. I could put a paint gun in the hands of someone who has never shot before and tell you in 5 minutes if I could teach him to paint. You never know until you try it!

Reviewing owners manuals, it appears the large plastic window began in 1949. That's the first year I see reference to "care of plastic window". This was also a major body change, so that makes since.

Contact Louis Jenkins, Jenkins Interiors, Wilkesboro, NC

Dick, If this is dealing with NC DMV, you might need copies of this information. It's attached. Dave Bowman Charlotte, NC

The MS in the VIN number indicates a 1942, 1943, 1944 or 1945. The motor number will help narrow it down as well as knowing the truck series. MS indicates a 1 1/2 ton truck on the 160inch wheelbase. Begining serial number was MS-1001 and continued through this series of trucks. 1942 motor numbers were 2AF-1001 & up or BF-1001 & up for the Stake Express or Stock Express bodys. 1944 and 1945 MS trucks used motor number BG-580921. There is no listing for 1943 and it appears any built in 1943 would continue the 1942 motor number series. Source: 1949 Red Book.

Very impressive. For others, "Hirek" is the hyperlink to the web site. Is this your shop?

The '61-'62 Lincolns have the 430 engine with a 2bbl carb. The '63 was the first year of the 4bbl carb. All are great driving cars. Good luck on finding one.

Your original color was Platinum Gray. See the link below. Also in the 40's and possibly early 50's Chrysler used the same color Grey-green inside all trunks, no matter what he exterior color was. AutoColorLibrary - Color Chip Selection

Jenkins Restorations is still in business. They just finished a top on a '56 Lincoln for us a few months ago. We spoke to Louis just a few days ago.

Do you put your modern car in neural to go down the same hill? It will gain speed also. There is no need to do it and it is unsafe. You need engine braking desending all hills to maintain control of the vehicle and prevent run away and loss of control.

Most of us started as you did with little knowledge of our cars, but through research period manuals from the factory and non-factory publications such as Dyke's we began to learn. Trial and error is a great learning tool as well. Joining AACA and Maxwell clubs is a must and get active. The more people you meet with cars of your period, the faster you will learn. Good luck with the Maxwell.

Note on the 12 volt Imperials above. The Crown was the long wheelbase limo and was 12 volts. Standard Imperials were 6 volts.

I seem to remember some early 60's Chryslers having a dash mounted turn signal switch. I think that is what you have.

I had a similar problem on a '57 Buick. It would run great for 15-20 miles and die and would not restart. Let it sit for 30 miniutes and it would crank right up and run for another 15-20 miles and die. There is a filter/strainer on the pickup tube in the tank. This tank had not been cleaned out and the sediment in the tank would clog the filter. After 30 minutes, enough would fall off that the car would crank again. Cleaning and sealing the tank and removing the pickup striner solved the problem.

I beleve the one on the left is '46-'48 Buick and the one next to it '49 Buick. not sure on the other two.

This happened to me on a '57 Buick with power brakes on a road trip. The diaphram seal in the boster is leather. There is a cover on the top of the boster. Remove the cover and add a few drops of motor oil and move the brake pedal up and down. This should cure your problem. This is covered in the shop manual.

Can you post a photo of what you have? It will help you get an answer.

Hi Chris, Check Autocolorlibrary.com They have it available in PPG Sudan Blue 504 IM1691. Dave Bowman

Check the rear flex hose again. I had the same problem on a '47 Roadmaster. Replaced all hoses and in a few months had the same problem. Took off the rear flex hose and cut it open. The inside of the hose had swollen to the point the opening was less than 1/16". Put on another new hose and that corrected the problem. If it was a problem with the master cylinder push rod adjustment, you would have problems on all wheels not just the rear.

I had the same wiper problem on my '60 Invicta. The grease in the wiper motor drive gear was rock hard and keeping the park lever from moving into place. Pull the motor, take the cover off the gear drive, remove the old grease and relube. You should be in great shape then.

You could use the special Chrismas - New Years plant shutdown to buy at least a week given the engine production date and the body date. Seriously, there is no such thing as a "6 week" rule in AACA judging. Also, AACA has no requirement for matching numbers. All we require is that the engine in the vehicle was available in that vehicle from the factory. We further require that the engine appear as it did from the factory, including the correct color paint. Keep up your research. If all engines in 1957 Chevy trucks were gray and passenger cars yellow, it indicates your engine has been changed. Keep on digging for the definitive answer and keep the documentation you find, especilly if you find that the yellow 265 is correct.

For AACA judging, it would not be a problem. AACA does not judge date codes or production dates. However, you should document that the 265 was available in a '57 truck. If not, that would be a deduction. You should post this question with what ever clubs you plan on showing the truck at. Each has different standards.

Your's is number 4. The last I heard, this car seems to be in Washington state. This looks like the same car. Any more out there?

Starting in 2011, the HPOF and DPC cars are placed on the show field before the other classes rather than at the end.

Re #279 The SC plate #1 is indeed the Govenor's car and the Govenor was Strom Thurmond, who you can see on the porch.