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About Ron42Dodge

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  • Birthday 10/05/1956

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  1. Anyone have a 35 Mopar parts book to know if that is what this is?
  2. The Closest I can get is this exploded view of a D2 D5 D8 Transmission showing the Transmission Gear Shift Rail Assembly, and pictures from my 36 - 42 Plymouth Parts List that are similar pieces. The 1936 -37 1st & Reverse Rail is 654212 and the Second and Direct is 686617 for most Mopars, so the numbers are in a similar range and the pieces look similar. I'm guessing 1935 Mopar but it would be nice to know.
  3. Trying to identify this part. I believe it is a mopar but not totally sure, possibly a shift rail. Painted number appears to be 631894. Embosed numbers are 63186 ? Also MS467 and DF28 L.. Thanks in advance
  4. I was surprised how many woodies I saw. I've watched about 20 Minutes so far and have seen at least 3. I've driven on most of these streets and am fascinated on what has changed and what has not. But I love seeing the cars and the colors of everyday life.
  5. This film appears to have been shot in the late 40s and explains the development and operation of the streecars in omaha. I am sharing it to this site as there are plenty of old cars driving around trying to get out of the way of the streetcars. And most is in color. Let me know if it doesn't belong here and I will be happy to remove it.
  6. I have one dove tail latch. Are you still looking?
  7. My 1935-53 Parts manual shows 4 different rear axle differentials for Dodge. 3.9 to 1 for 1937-1952 with a foot note. But it also shows 3.73 to 1 for 1949-52 (D29 3 cp., Roadster) and 4.1 to 1 for 49-52 Dodge. 3.9 to 1 D47 for 1953. You probably need to do Jacks test above to verify what you have.
  8. I know I'm way late to this conversation but in my opinion this is a modified closed car. I searched for some other pictures since the original link is not showing anything. To me the give-away is the partial door frame over the vent window. Factory convertibles have stainless frames around the side windows that butted up to the top frame. The center windshield division bar is also strange. The perimeter windshield trim looks wider than normal too. There does appear to be a hose running from the body to the door which could indicate power windows but I don't see a bank of switches anywhere on the dash. The radio almost looks aftermarket and appears to be missing buttons and knobs. I suppose it is possible that Derham was asked to modify a 4 door Imperial closed car into a parade car side car production was shut down and they could not get another convertible ordered. The boot is flat and square compared to the actual convertible which slopes down to the front. If there was no top ordered why did it need to stick up in the back. I think the real secret would be to explore the structural system of the car. Closed cars use the roof as a support brace. Factory convertibles use the fire wall, floor and behind the seat for bracing. Is there an X-brace built into the frame? Is the dash welded in? Is there a big brace behind the seat. Does the body sit on a rubber cushion at the firewall and behind the back seat or just anti-squeak? If there are rubber cushions there is no strong transfer of loads from the body to the frame brace.
  9. Not sure of the exact year of the photo but I believe it is around WWII. I wish it was a little more clear.
  10. Although he could have done a better job of packing it looks to me the shipper did everything they could to destroy this. I think these fell off the truck at least once.
  11. One listed on ebay. MoPar 1939 1940 Dodge Truck TD VD 3/4 1 Ton Used Radiator Core #591259
  12. I appreciate all this input. So are there platters that will do this disassembly and reassembly? I don't own a welder and would hate to learn on this. And yes, I would like it to look like it came out of the factory. I considered the blackout option but my car was delivered 1 week prior to blackout. I would rather do it correct. I've been stalled on this step way to long. I'm not even sure how to undo the existing welds. I've got to stop staring at this project and start moving forward.
  13. That is all I was really after but they wanted them taken apart. Only the front faces need chrome. The rest can be painted or at least not buffed . Joe seems to believe they are correct but I feel maybe it is more convenient.
  14. I have a 1942 Dodge Grille that needs to be rechromed. The grille is actually 3 assemblies (right, left and center) along with some mouldings at the top (right, left and Center). I have been stuck on this step for several years and now it's time to reach out for help. I was told by our local Chrome platter that I had to completely disassemble my grille into individual components. My center grille section is made up of horizontal and vertical members. The vertical interior members are stainless and just clipped in so I removed them and went back. No they need me to break all the factory welds. For the Center section there are 7 horizontal pieces and 2 end pieces where the horizontals were welded to the the vertical ends. I don't even know if you could reweld them on. Some suggested rivets but there would be conflicts with the end piece and the last vertical stainless. I have the same problem with the right and left sides. I've attached pictures of a NOS Left side to let you see how it left the factory. Then the top center moulding they wanted disassembled but that is all welded to the back side of plated material. Discoloration guaranteed. Only the front faces need to be polished out. Is all this disassembly necessary or am I talking to the wrong platter? I'm pretty sure there are other one piece egg crate like grilles that are chrome plated that cannot be disassembled but have been replatted (1946-48 Dodge?). Input would be appreciated. Ron