R Holden

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About R Holden

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  1. The "Sun Ray" hood is very different from the US version with no vertical flutes, instead 5 horizontal louvers which are said to remind onlookers of the morning sun rising over the horizon?? The hooked section above the sun rays is swagged and on the Master (ie US Mater Deluxe model) this has a chrome molding that went over the swag commonly referred to as the "walking stick" which the standard model did not have. Hopefully this photo give a better idea of the difference. As an aside GM-H management wanted to have the hood the same as the US version, however production was put back several time after exterior suppliers could not produce a hood that management would accept as good enough, finally someone said I can do this and showed them the Sun Ray version, management asked when "how many can you produce", they replied, "you can have 200 on Monday as as many as you like after that", so production of the all new turret top 1937 Chev swung into action.
  2. GM-H (GM-Holden) generally continued the US lines after the buy in by General Motors post the great depression. However there were a few exceptions, generally due to supplier or equipment. In 1937 local suppliers could not produce the US style hood (bonnet in Australia) despite several attempts, so the unique Australian "Sun Ray" style hood was adopted. GM-H did not have the pressing for the "slash" running from under the hood into the front door in the US '37 & 38 models so these were also not produced on the 1937 & 38 model in Australia and they look much more like the 1937 lines. GM in the USA dis-continued the Phaeton (Tourer) line in 1934, however GM-H continued the "Tourer" as it was called in Australia through 1935, 36, 37 & 38. Production numbers steadily dropped with numbers falling from the high 500's in 1935 to just over 200 and in 1938, the Tourer line was dropped for the 1939 production year. GM-H also produced another unique body style not produced in the US known as the "Sloper Coupe" from 1935 through 1940. Whilst it is general regarded as uniquely Australian, it most likely had it's origins in the 1933 Cadillac Aero Dynamic coupe line. Whilst I read every where that this car is "rare" because of the 5000 produced this is the only one with this colour combo and or motor trans combo", this Tourer is truly rare because it is one of 4 survivors of just over 200 produced. We purchased the '38 quite a few years ago to prevent it being Hot Rodded - unbelievably it is in better condition than when we first purchased our 1937 tourer over 25 years ago, (which is a fantastic touring car - we restored to drive) however this '38 Tourer would be a unique car in any collection and certainly turn many an eye on the AACA show field!
  3. Hi Keith Thanks for the inquiry I can bubble wrap then, box them up and send them to you via FedEx, I would need your address which you can email directly to me russell@oldworldlamps.net and I'l lgive you the all up cost,
  4. Hi Carl Not sure which bit your questioning, me or the parts wanted for the '19 Essex ?
  5. Hi all I have a friend who is restoring a 1919 Excess and is looking for parts particularly the steering drag link, but anything else out there. any help greatly appreciated.
  6. Hi Brent I would be interested in any photos and details on the Twombly, also price & location, please email russell@oldworldlamps.net thanks. If it helps there a 3 Twombly's in Australia, 2 restored another under going a long term restoration
  7. Hi Layton do you have the check valve? I could make one, however does anyone have an idea of the spring pressure that would be applied, I'd guess 1 -1 1/2lbs similar to the atmospherics inlet valves?????
  8. Hi Jon Thanks for the reply, I had not though that a "conventional" Carbie would work on a 2 stroke however your idea is worth looking at, I have several Schebler D's in different sizes (using 1 on a 1905 Glide, 1 1/4 " and have 2 restored to go on a 1899 Haynes Apperson if the correct original Carbies don't work properly, all model D's) I also have some L & R's I've collected. What is on there is the correct original carbie (if that is what you cal lit?), it is just very finiky with the mixture, you need to lean it up going down hill and richen it up to go up, it has no bowl and is a tube with a air inlet and a simple needle jet that adjust the amount of gas allow to be sucked in to the crank case. You adjust it from the front seat with a knob it is a constant job if you want to get anywhere! As it is a 2 stroke it take a few revolution to know if you have it right and quite often you've gone too far before you get a reaction from the motor. Your Schebler thought is certinally worth the try, thanks. I don't collect carbies unless I think I have a need for them on an early car, I have a restored Kingston 5 Ba l Carbie what are they worth these days?
  9. Hi Ed & Carl Thanks for the reply's Ed & Carl and for the record the parts wanted/for sale very often yields no response, it seem the only constantly viewed forum is the cars for sale - I'm guilty of the same thing Anyway I do have the original Carby if that is what you would call it, it is a brass gauze topped (air inlet) tube with a lower gas inlet and a small jet (for want of a better term) it has no bowl and floods the crankcase is you do not turn the gas off before turning the car off. I can deal with that, but the mixture or getting it right is the finicky thing, lean it out going down hill, richen it up going up! So I'm looking for a carbie that is within reason period correct that has a bowl and will maintain a constant mixture so we can tour the car with more success and less "fine tuning" of the mixture along the way. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. I've PM Carbkibh also.
  10. Ed unaware of "CarbKing" do you have any contact details?
  11. Hi all I'm looking for a suitable carburetor for our 1902 Elmore Model 6 runabout, all help greatly appreciated. Also contact with other Elmore owners.
  12. I'm assuming this guy was not really interested?
  13. Hi I could not log in while I was in the US, hence my slow response. You can email me direct at Russell@oldworldlamps.net and we can discuss shipping to France and payment etc. Thanks
  14. Hi Dave Can you send me some photos to my email, thanks. Russell@oldworldlamps.net