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Other Clubs

Found 14 results

  1. A bulb burned out in my right tail light. When the bulb went (probably the original) it melted part of the housing (not the lens). Now a standard bulb will not fit since the space is not large enough. I can probably file off the melted plastic, use and LED bulb, or use a halogen bulb. If I file it down, the bulb may not fit snugly. Does someone know the best solution?
  2. I happened to read a trouble shooting Q&A column in the latest Hemmings. The guy had brakes frozen up. Part of the response was to never leave your parking brake on. Is this true? I block my wheels, of course, because there is no back-up to the brake, but I prefer redundancy when it comes to safety. Is leaving the parking brake on a bad idea?
  3. I would like to find a good home for this lathe. It's an Ammco 3000 in operating condition. Comes with extra parts and fittings including a drum grinder, stand, two arbors, cutting bar, and grinding wheels. It's very heavy, so please make arrangements to pick it up at my shop. Why am I selling it? I just bought another one and don't have room for two. Price: $350 or best offer. Contact: Howard King via this thread or by phone (410) 635-6019
  4. Hi I have bought 3 Brake Drum Thrust Washer (T-3320-D) and the Transmission Gear Shaft (T-3331) but now I have a problem regarding the lubrication of the Transmission Gear Shaft where the Brake Drum Thrust Washer have to be put. I'd like to know, if anybody knows, if you have some advices about the lubrication. Due to this problem I have also a overheating problem due to the low lubrification inflow. Sorry for my bad english Thanks in advance!
  5. Recently I've had the problem of braking when I need to brake hard. When I push on the brake fast the pedal seems to push back at my foot not going down. If I push on the brake slower it will brake smooth but I'm scared because if someone cuts in front of me I feel like it won't brake in time. Anything that I can do to fix this?
  6. My 1902 White steamer has a single band brake on the chain-drive differential and uses a cast bronze drum. I need advice on what type of lining to use. When I bought the car it had a woven lining of unknown material (asbestos?) but this had hardly any stopping power. I replaced it with a Scan-Pac 242-OR molded lining (same as McMaster's "high friction" lining). This material ate-up the soft bronze drum badly in just a couple hundred miles and the car still didn't stop well. There is conjecture that the original lining was leather, but the expert in such things, Bob Knaak, says leather won't withstand the heat generated in brakes...great for clutches but not for brakes. One person suggested using a woven Kevlar lining like that used with some success in Model-T transmission bands. Chopped Kevlar is, I believe, the replacement for asbestos in modern molded linings but woven Kevlar does not appear to be used, at least as far as I can tell. Any suggestions along with a discussion of what works for you would be much appreciated!
  7. The Kanter brake kit could not be used as is and needed some modifications including a different new dual master. A special firewall mounting plate had to be made. Spacers needed modification. A number of other things. Anyway here's some pictures.
  8. My friend have a buick special -58 that we have tried to fix the main brake cylinder on. We replaced the "piston" and gaskets and made a hening/grinding (don't really know the english word) of the cylinder to get rid of rust and scratches. This all took about a year because of other things coming in the way... So when we finally had got it together again and had put out the air the brakes worked just fine! But as you press the pedal it won't go up itself after you have taken the foot of it. How is it supposed to go up? Can we have missed some part or what have we done wrong? Regards Eddie Landmer
  9. Guest

    Master cylinder help

    I have a Bobcat tractor(no relation to todays bobcat) It was used to plow side walks in the north east. It uses many car parts. The rear ends and brakes are 39-40 ford i beleive, the rims and tires are jeep, and the master cylinders are off some unknown vehical. The unit is cria 1950, and has a kohler engine. Now the brakes on it need some work and new wheel cylenders. The master cylinders are in need of replacement or significant work. They are Wagner Lockheed # FE 1(5 or 3)(8 or 3)80. Im just wondering what they origionially were on, and where i can find parts or prefabaly replacements. Also where is the best(cheapest) place to bye 1939-40 ford wheel cylenders. The pictures are of one master cylinder, and the whole unit. Thanks in advance -Greg
  10. Guest

    ABS Control Unit Needed

    I need an ABS Control Unit for my 89 Buick Reatta. Anyone with knowledge where I can get such a part, please let me know. Prefer used, but if I must buy new or re-manufactured (if there is such a thing). That's o.k. I was told that a new one is $300, which I did not know if that was a good price or not. Can anyone help?
  11. i have read with great interest the posts about brake accumulator issues, and brake conversion projects. i was wondering if there is a reason to NOT convert to a newer ABS brake system? i have found newer style ABS solutions for lebaron and daytona, thru 1993 or 1995, seem to be easily acquired, and maintained. is there an issue with finding room for the power booster from a lebaron or daytona system? regarding concerns about lawsuits: not worried - i have a pit-bull friend on call... besides, i could just say "oooh i'm old, i didn't know what i was doing"
  12. Guest

    Cast iron pedal

    This was amongst a large lot of 1920's-1960's auto parts. :confused: Looks like some light orange paint under the rust... No writing, just a small round indistinguishable marking on the underside....trademark? Thanks in advance, Bill
  13. The adjuster on my parking brake cable, the one that is located about midway under the the drivers side rocker, broke today. Where can I find this part? Is it included as part of one of the cables, or is it a separate part?
  14. Guest

    1955 brake light issue

    G'day all We're now having issues with our brake lights on our '55 Super. First up we put new globes in (among other things) then find the fuse keeps blowing. Put the old globes back in and all ok. Anyone know the exact specs on the correct globes? The ones it's running has nothing ledigble written on them. Second - and more imporantly - the brake lights only come on when the pedal is pushed very firmly (closer to the floor). Obviously not the best set up. Is there any adjustment in the hydraulic switch etc? Thanks again
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