61polara

A few years ago a friend and I decided to think out of the box about a car show/display. Your car is your trophy, so bringing it out is your award. We sought funding from the local tourism board and they liked the concept. The show was held on Main Street whcih is lined with resturants and antique stores. Preregisteration was required, but there was no registration fee. Our intent was for all owner to be rewarded for bringing out their car. All entrants received "Ten Down Town Dollars" to spend at any store in the downtown area. Merchants were notified where to redeam the "Dollars". There was no judging. Your car is your throphy! The first show brought in 150 cars. They were placed by club, if the club desired and if not by year. Primier display cars were brought in and displayed in front of the Courthouse and included over the years a '35 Duesenburg, '48 Tucker, '12 Cadillac and others. This worked well for five years until the Downtown Merchants Association decided they could make money on this because "all old car owners would pay to show their car". They took control of the show, started charging to display cars and I have not been back since. Look at this original concept for small town, downtown events. It will bring out possible new members to make your region stronger.

I've had this problem on a '57 Buick, which I think has the same type boster. There is a small cover on the top of the boster. Remove it and put a few drops of transmission fluid in there. Start working the pedal. I think it will free up for you. This is covered in the shop manual. From the break pull, it sounds like its time for a complete overhaul.

I have one just like it with all the cords and timing light but no instructions on hook up for all the tests. I can't get to it for a few days and will post pictures of cords and attachents. If anyone has the instructions, I'd like to have a copy as well.

Check the float as others have mentioned. A friend had the same problem on a car and I kept on telling him the float level was too high. He finally agreed to pull the carb on the morning we were leaving for a 4 hour drive to an AACA National Meet. I opened up the carb and found the pivot pin for the float in the bottom of the bowl and the float just floating..............Put the pin back in from the correct side for this car, checked the float level and remounted the carb. It hasn't stalled in four years.

At the Charlotte Meet, the show format was different from most National Meets. The show cars were released at 3:00pm and the awards were given at 4:00 in a large tent adjacent to the show field, followed by a dinner for those who registed in the same tent at 5:00 pm. Our AACA President, Herb Oakes, asked for feed back on this format. Let us know what you thought. Should this be the case for other National Meets?

Dave, Thanks for your kind words about AutoFair. I was parked beside you in the Fiat Spider. Sorry I didn't get a chance to meet you, but I was involved in show activities for HNR. Maybe at the next show.

Thanks to everyone's response and pictures, NC DMV issued a title based on this documentation.

Many of us arn't on Facebook and would like to see what is going on with the Bookmobile! hint, hint!

Steve, Wes and Chris.......any updated photos you can post since this thread has come back up?

Welcome to the forum. Title laws very from state to state and are getting more difficult every day. Check out the SEMA information at the top of this forum page. If you have all the paper work from the dealer in 1987, it may be possible but not easy if you did not transfer the title at that time. What state are you in?

Wes, I would start with the basics. Spark plugs and wires and clean the injectors. Check the air filter. I'm assuming the check engine light is not on, since you didn't mention it. If no improvement from these, then move on to the more advanced areas.

Looking back at the parts book, the antennas were all called "skyway" antenna. I blieve this hole in the dash was used with a windshield header antenna. Also available was the cowl mounted antenna in 100" and 66" lengths. There was also a cowl mounted reel type antenna that could be cranked up and down from inside the car. This antenna was also available with an electric motor. I haven't been able to find a picture of the header antenna installation yet, but still looking.

This hole is for a radio antenna option, which mounted on the inside of the windshield. I don't think I've ever seen one as the external antenna was the other radio option. My '42 part book indicates this was part of the skyway radio option. It also list a "Instrument Panel Antenna Hole Plug", available in woodgrain or painted.

Don't know what your usual sources are, but have you contacted the AACA Library, the Philidelphia Free Library Automotive Collection or the Detriot Public Library Automotive Collections. If they have it, they will copy it at reasonable rates.

I agree with Matt and Susan above. Although the Judges Manual does not directly address an aftermarket vaccum pump, an electric fuel pump on your car would be a mandatory 10 point deduction. So I agree with Susan that the deduction could be at least 5 points. This is too many points to risk when going for your Senior award. I consulted my Holander's Interchange Manual and it appears that both vaccum and electric wipers were available in 1958. There are four different fuel pumps listed for the V8 cars as well, some dependent on if the car had vaccum or electric wipers. You could have the wrong pump on your car. With vaccum wipers, I suspect you should have a combination fuel / vaccum pump. From the interchange manual, the HP engines use a pump that was used into the mid 60's which is not a duel pump. This leads me to wonder if the HP and fuel injected engines required the electric wiper option. I'm not a Chevy expert, just raising some questions on why your wipers may need an electric pump. Matt is correct, you should try to find the cause of the problem and correct it. Good luck on your Senior!

Look at the photos in another post here of a 1917, which appears to have the correct rear window. I don't believe yours is correct, but from a later car.

Number 4 is an aftermarket nock-off of a '61 Dodge deluxe cap. The original Dodge caps have black paint not white. Number 5 is a Dodge cap and nuber 6 is Plymouth.

If you have only driven it twice around the block and are half gallon low on coolant and the temp light flickers, you have a major leak if it was full when you started. The overheating could be causing all your problems. Find where the coolant is going! On these short drives, I don't think its the radiator cap. If it is the radiator cap, you will see coolant spitting from the overflow tube on the radiator when you stop unless the coolent level is to low. ' Fill the radiator to the correct level and start the engine with the cap off. Let it come up to temp. When the engine comes up to the thermostat temp, you should start to see the coolant flowing through the radiator. The engine should not overheat with the cap off at idle. I coolant starts flowing out of the opening, you have a blocked radiator or a lower hose that has collapsed. If you see major air bubles in the coolant after the thermostat has opened, you have a blown head gasket allowing compression gas to enter the cooling system. By the way, my '60 Invicta was the first '60 Buick to receive the AACA Original award! They're geat cars. Never had an overheating problem with it. With the 401 they don't even know they have a Dynaflow behind them. Trust me from experience, find the cause of the overheating first! Let us know what you find.

It's an early household application, not automotive.

For a $35 membership fee he can also have printed proof that he won the award and it will be in his name!

Not '56, '57, '58 or '59. It's earlier '50's.

Search this site for 12 volt conversions and you will find plenty of discussions. Most agree that you are better off staying with 6 volts. You can do a radio work around, your lights will not be brighter with 12 volts on a properly operating 6 volt system and you can walk into most auto parts stores and buy a 6 volt battery off the shelf. Save yourself a lot of problems and stay with the 6 volts. The car will be dependible to take your kids to school in and a lot less trouble to convert your camper to 6 volts than your car.

GM Interior gray per the 1990 SEM color chip book is 15BN Med Slate Gray. SEM No. 4458

There may be a strainer/filter on the pick-up tube in the tank. Drop the tank, clean it out and put in a new sending unit which includes the fuel pick up. I had this problem on a '57 Buick and it drove me nuts until I figured out the problem. It would run great for 15 minutes and then shut down. Wait 30 minutes and it would start and run great for another 15 minutes. The rust in the tank would take 15 minutes to clog the tank trainer and after 30 minutes enough would fall off to let the car run for another 15 minutes.

Dennis Carpenter has them listed for $7.00 each (B6A-13007). Download his catalog for '57-'59 Ford and you may find many other things you need. Call and talk to them and see if this is the correct headlight. Check other Ford and Thunderbird vendors as well. Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100 Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts