61polara

The bolts on the head extend up through the nuts at different heights. The head has been off and most likely replaced by a later Chrysler or Plymouth head. This is a Maxwell engine. This engine has the oil bath cone clutch, which I don't think was used on any Chrysler or Plymouth four cylinder engines. It's later than 1921 because it does not have priming cups on the intake manifold, but still has the bosses where the holes would be drilled and tapped for priming cups. 1921 still had the priming cups, 1922 did not.

The HPOF Evaluation Committee has considered this quite a few years ago. AACA judging has always been based on honesty that the car is restored as built by the factory and delivered to the first owner. For that reason, every car rolls onto the show field with 400 points. The owner is expected to have factory documentation to support any major deduction by the judges. The judges deduct for items not factory original. HPOF is much the same. The owners are to disclose items which are not original on their car. Deductions are made based on the evaluation committee assessment of the car, considering the owners comments. Every owner comment may not result in a deduction but will be reviewed by the committee for deduction. If the committee can not determine if a component has been restored or not, there is no deduction. Remember, this is HPOF, Historical Preservation of Original Components. The key word is COMPONENTS. A 1920's car that was repainted in the 1950's may receive an HPOF because the engine, engine compartment, interior and underbody have been maintained, but not restored. There is no deduction for maintenance items which have been replaced. HPOF cars still must meet AACA judging standards for "as delivered to the original owner". This means that hose clamps, tires etc. which are maintenance items must be of the correct style and size or they will receive a deduction. Can judges be fooled? Yes. Both in point judging and HPOF. But the spirit of AACA judging is that the owner has been honest in his representation of the car to the best of his knowledge. We all fail when an owner represents something as factory correct or original which he knows isn't or has been told by someone else that it doesn't matter the judges don't catch it. HPOF certified vehicles are wonderful restoration guides because the owners will (should) tell you what is original and what has been restored because they are maintaining the car for that purpose and their enjoyment of an original car.

That air conditioner is just a hot water heater with a fresh air intake. It "conditions" the fresh air by heating it. Nash also had a Weather Eye heater that "conditioned" fresh air.

It appears to be a 1923 Maxwell. Maxwell serial numbers for that year were 388530-444231. Your engine has a oil bath cone clutch with the filler in the rear clutch housing mount (seen in picture 1) which Maxwell used and the remaining blue/green paint is correct for Maxwell.

I think you answered your own question. If you want an correct restoration, you need to find a 42 engine.

There is an intake with that part number described as 35-36 Desoto Airflow now. http://forums.aaca.org/f147/intake-manifold-1935-1936-desoto-airflow-388517.html

This ad identifies the intake as 33-34 Plymouth. Can't confirm one way or the other at this time. http://intake-manifold.dvautoparts.com/discount-store/1933-1934-plymouth-intake-w-jjjnpnmpokmp

Rick, It's pre 1937. The exhaust manifold number would help. It looks like Chrysler serviced the intake only as a package with the exhaust manifold in the early years. Still looking for my oldest Holanders and may be able to help more when I find it. Dave Bowman

The sending unit provides the ground for the gauge through a variable resistor. Since the gauge moves to full, most likely the wire from the gauge to the sending unit is grounding to the body somewhere in between. Usually, when a sending unit goes out, the gauge reads empty because there is no ground supplied through the sending unit.

Consider Grayhound bus for shipping.

I would be surprised if you get 10 years from your radials. More like 4 to 5. Radials should be replaced at least every 5 years no matter what tread is left on them. Bias-ply will exceed that life.

First, you must be a member of AACA National. This would be the HPOF class for original, unrestored vehicles. You can register an pay online using the AACA number and PIN printed on the face sheet of the Antique Autombile or used the registration request form in the Antique Automobile mailing. Many great meets are coming up this year. Hope to see you at one of them.

Your posts are interesting, but please post a photo of what you are talking about, so everyone doesn't have to research what you have already researched to answer you question. Help us out some and you may get better responses to your posts.

Same OP 1949 MG TC about the same, same price............Looks like he has not been back since he posted these. http://forums.aaca.org/f119/1949-mg-tc-extremely-rare-387132.html

1957Birdman, you are correct. I think the comments above are more in line in pointing out that the car is not the correct restoration bargin that the OP has presented it as, but rather an extreamly nice driver to enjoy and not to consider for point judging in any show. Based on review of the various price guides, the asking price is in the average range, which is what I would classify this vehicle with these modifications.

That's great. If he can cut keys for you, lube them with graphite to make it easier to move the old tumblers. No connection to these guys, just like to promote great work in a hard to find area.

Wayne, I only gave them the year and make of the car and the key code stamped on the face of the lock. They responded with the key blank that it used, the quantity of blanks that they had and that they had the code books to cut the key. I had two keys cut and had them in a week. There website has a lot of key information. They keys work perfectly. I checked with all the old time local locksmiths and none had the correct blank. Give these guys a try and let us know how it works out.

Contact these guys http://www.key-men.com/ They just made two keys for my 1921 Maxwell. Great job and good turnaround time.

Do you have a right front door stainless trim strip for a 4Ht Invicta?

A lot can change in 25 years. In 1990, we were concerned that our shows would become nothing but 1965 Mustangs that had just crossed the 25 year mark. Our judging system has evolved very well since it was put in place in the early 1950's and I expect that it will continue to evolve in the next 25 years to address this question. Based on todays standards, the link you provided shows that AEV is an authorized conversion to that dealer. What you need to show is that AEV is an authorized conversion of Chrysler Corporation. That is the documentaion judges would be looking for if that Jeep was on the show field in 2015. Without that documentation, expect deductions for each AEV modification.

If your's is the typical cut carpet set with the floor area as seperate pieces rather than a one piece molded set, it would be best to remove the capet and replace with the rubber mat only. This is typical of foreign sports cars of this period. Phil is correct, bringing documentation is always good. Correct and documented correct will never get you a deduction.

Not if the car originally came with 6.70 x 15 from the factory.

This is my 1921 Maxwell. It's a 23,000 mile car which has been maintained since new as needed. I'm the fourth owner and knew the second owner whose father bought it new. It sat in storage for about 20 years before I bought it in October. Still working on freeing the stuck engine. The car was originally from New York but has been in the Carolinas since the 1970's. I'm looking for a 1921 Information Book / owners manual for this car. It's amazing what a cup of kerosene in a bucket of water will do to an old finish. The keys had been misplaced, but Key-Men in MA was able to cut keys for it. Hoping to have it running and on the show field for the AACA National at Charlotte in April.

Yes, I do have a small hot water heater in the garage. I thought about that as well as firing up the turkey fryer with a big pot of water. I'm wondering if the valves or lifters may be stuck. Planning on pulling off the side cover an see if the valves are free. Rocking the car hard shows no sign of movement in the fan.

That's a new one on me. I'll give it a try.