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About Vila

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/11/1950

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Mechanicsburg, PA
  • Interests:
    1933 and earlier Chevrolets, all British sports cars, old BMWs, Vespas and home improvements.


  • Biography
    Retired USAF/ANG EC-130 Navigator

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  1. I just ran across my original posting and noticed I forgot to mention how I adjust the valves with the engine running. 1. Set the valve with .002 to .003 extra clearance with the engine cold. 2. Remove the windshield wiper vacuum hose from the manifold fitting and connect a vacuum gauge. 3. Select the feeler gauge with the correct clearance and one other feeler that is .001 or .0015. You will partially overlap the one thousandths feeler over the correct sized one. 4. Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature. The vacuum gauge should be rather steady at this point. 5. At slow idle, loosen a valve adjusting nut while at the same time you are holding the adjuster with a screw driver that is moving up and down as and the valve opens and shuts. I normally start at the back and work my way to the front. 6. Insert the proper size feeler gauge under the rocker arm, then slide it over to include the overlapped .001 or .0015 feeler while watching for a fluctuation in the vacuum gauge. 7. When the valve is adjusted properly the gauge will be steady with only the proper sized gauge and bounce around with the addition of the thin feeler gauge. 8. Tighten the nut while holding the adjuster in place with the screw driver, then re-check with the feelers to see if it is still adjusted properly. 9. Continue this process until all valves are adjusted. 10. Remove the vacuum gauge and reconnect the wiper hose.
  2. I use Bill Hirsch Exhaust and Manifold paint on all of my antique cars exhaust systems and it works great. Some cars have the bright aluminum color and other the cast iron gray color. I have always used it on Non-galvanized mild steel exhaust systems and am not sure about how it would hold up on a Galvanized system, but I would thing a quick call to them will answer that question. You can find their phone number at:
  3. I believe everything causes cancer in California. To save money why don't the stores just put a sign at the entrance that says "Everything sold in this store causes cancer", then they could save money by not putting labels on each product they sell.
  4. I am not a fan of the new car designs either. I have never seen an SUV I liked and many of the new car and SUV designs look like they came from the same people that designed the Transformer toys a generation ago.
  5. Job No. 8870 on the body tag says it was a 1929 Chevrolet, AC series, International model, 2 door coach. If you can find the brass tag approximately 1 x 1.5 inches nailed to the floor just inside the right door, we can provide more information. The number on this tag is the cars serial number, which is what they call the VIN today. The first one or two digits will tell you which factory the car was built in, AC for your series (1929 car), next two digits for the month is was built and the last set of digits began with the number 1 for the first car made on that assembly line and ran sequentially to the number for the last car off the assembly line.
  6. It is difficult to see the front fender detail, but my guess is a 1925 or 26 Chevrolet.
  7. I just love it, when is the coming to the US. I live on a road with a 25 MPH speed limit and I believe I am the only driver that goes the speed limit. There are two parks 500 feet apart and on opposite sides of the road with my house half way between the two. One park has 5 little league ball fields and other family facilities for picnics and the other park has 4 or 5 soccer fields and a walking walkway round the perimeter. I the summer time families are frequently crossing the road to walk between the two parks and at least half the car traffic is going 45 or 50 MPH. Bring it on!
  8. The last time I had a valet attempt to park my manual transmission 2002 BMW Z3 it was in exactly the same location when I picked it up as when I dropped it off. No one responsible for parking cars at the hotel new how to drive a manual transmission. At least they were not dumb enough to try and drive it.
  9. I normally use Bill Hirsch's tank sealer kits also, but for $289 the tank in Xander's link seems like a real bargain.
  10. I am not a fan of quoting others posts. Some people take it to the extreme and have others quotes in almost every posting they do and it gets annoying. Then again, maybe I am just getting to old and find everything annoying.
  11. As stated above, when I adjust the valves on my 1933 Chevrolet Master I add .002 to .003 and adjust them cold and then tweak them in after the engine is hot. In fact I do the final adjustment with the engine running at slow idle. That is the way I was taught by an old Chevy guy who owned a 1931 back in the late 60s and that is how I still do it. The feeler gauge is good for adjusting the valves about two times, LOL.
  12. Year of Manufacture plates on two of my antique cars and late 60s PA purple plate on the third. Vanity place on my daily driver.
  13. Here is a link to where you can buy AC - 46 spark plugs: The Green Spark Plug Company LTD is in the UK, but shipping was reasonable and fast when I bought a few things from them 2 years ago. For USA customers you would not pay the VAT so they come out the 2.71 pounds each which at the current exchange rate of $1.30 per Pound come out to $3.53 each
  14. I agree with John S in Penna, and if it was my car I would not change it. In 2008 I bought a 1962 Triumph specifically for the purpose of restoring to all original. The car had less than 43,000 miles on it, but the previous owner had converted the electrical system from a generator to alternator and from 12V Positive ground to Negative ground within the previous few years and guess what, the system would not charge. Yes the system would not charge and other then the alternator replacement, everything about the electrical system was in perfect operating condition. In fact the wiring harness had absolutely no issues other then replacing the harness wrap with new blue wrapping tape. Even the original voltage regulator was in perfect condition. I rebuilt a used original style generator I got from eBay, installed everything and the system now worked perfect. Sounds like you are following the philosophy "If it ain't broke, fix it until it is".
  15. When people are restoring vehicles to look original, I don't care what type of paint the restorer put on their car as long as it looks like the original finish in color and level of gloss. I don't like to see cars with a super high gloss finish if that was not how the vehicle originally came out of the factory and I don't like some of the finishes people are putting on vehicles where it looks like plastic. I am not sure what causes the plastic look of some finishes, but I don't like it. I know of cars brands that originally came out of the factory with orange peel and runs, especially i areas like the engine compartment and in the wheel wells. Is there is issue of someone restores a car and the paint job has orange peel and runs in these areas or should it be restored with a high gloss perfect mirror finish in all areas?