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About Vila

  • Birthday 04/11/1950

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  1. A friend sent me a photo of this car and asked me to identify it. No luck here. Looks European to me, but I have never seen one before.
  2. If you could replace the Ziebart plug with plain black rubber plugs judges may not notice as much, since many cars had plain black rubber plugs to seal holes right from the factory.
  3. First, Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) did not come out until the late 1970s or early 1980s, when a standardized system of numbering all cars came out. Until that time it was referred to as the Serial Number and each car manufacturer used there own system for numbering cars. Not sure about a 1922 CHevrolet, but I would look for a worn metal plate on the floor boards just in front of the front seat next to the left or right front door frame thresholds. That is where the Serial Number plate is located on later 1920s and early 1930s Chevrolets. For the late 20s and early 30s Chevrolets there were no numbers on the chassis and other than the Serial Number plate, a lot of cars were registered using the engine serial number, depending on the state where the car was sold. That said, you may want to compare the engine serial number to the number on the registration documents. Another issue is the year of registration. Some states registered vehicles by the year the car was manufactured, some by the model year, and others by the year the car was first sold. That said you could have an early 1923 Model year Chevrolet made in November or December and it could be registered as a 1922. On the other hand you could have a 1921 Chevrolet that was not first sold until 1922 and it could be registered as a 1922. The only way to know for some cars is by researching the Serial Number. Your Chevrolet 490 so it should not be confused with a a 1923 Chevrolet, which looks totally different then a 490. I bought a 1964 Vespa scooter 3 or 4 years ago that was registered using the engine number. When I bought it I got a special Pennsylvania Department of Transportation form, had to have the local police come over to my house to verify the vehicle had been registered using the engine number and I also listed the Serial Number and sent the form in with the registration to register is using the Serial Number stamped into the body rather than the engine number.
  4. I believed I answered this in the General Forum, but here goes again. First, the standardized VIN did not come out until the 1970s or 1980s. Up until that time the vehicle numbers were referred to as the vehicles Serial Number and each manufacture had their own format for vehicle serial numbers. For a 1932 Chevrolet the serial number should be on a 4x2 inch metal plate nailed to the wood floor under the rubber floor mat on the passengers side (right side) just inside the door threshold. The number should be in a format like 12BA123456789. In this example the 12 represents the factory where the car was made, the BA is for a 1932 Chevrolet Confederate and the remaining digits are the unique serial number. Whether the Serial Number or Engine Number was used depends on the state where the car was originally registered. The issue with engine numbers is if the engine wore out and needed replaced the registration would need to be amended. I live in PA and the 1933 Chevrolet Master I have owned for 49 years has always been registered using the Serial Number, but I have a 1964 Vespa scooter that was originally registered with the engine number. When I bought the Vespa, I got the registration number changed to the scooter's serial number. In PA there is a special form that I needed to fill out and have the local police department come to my house and verify both the engine and serial numbers then the state had no issue registering it correctly. Back in the day, there were also issues with the vehicle year shown on the registration. Some states would register vehicles based on the year it was made, some on model year of the vehicle, and yet others on the year it was first sold. That said, you could have an early production 1933 Chevrolet built in November or December 1932 and the car may be registered as a 1932. On the other hand you could have a 1931 Chevrolet that was a left over and did not first sell until 1932 and it could be registered as a 1932.
  5. 1. They were not called Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) back in 1932, they were called serial numbers and were was no standard format like todays VIN. 2. The serial number for a Chevrolet of this error should be on a metal plate nailed to the wood floor just inside the threshold of the right front door. Everything is most likely worn off except the stamped number. Chevrolets had no number stamped on the frame 3. As others have said, the car could be registered by the Serial Number or Engine Number. Registration by the Engine number could be an issue if the engine wore out and was replaced. 4. The other issue is the year. Some states would register cars by Model Year, some by the year it was made and even by the year the vehicle was first sold. a.. You could have a car made early during the model year, which could be registered a year earlier then the model year. b. Obviously registered as the correct year. c. you could have a leftover car that was not sold during the model / production year and is registered as a year or so later then then model /production year. 5. For a 1932 Chevrolet the Serial Number should start with a one or two digit factory code followed by BA and then digits for the unique serial number. Example 12BA123456789
  6. When I replaced the spark plug wires on my 1933 Chevrolet back in the mid 1970s I used a set of original 1933 Chevrolet logo spark plug terminals I cut from a 1933 Chevrolet I found in a junk yard and soldered the terminals to my new wires. One of the attached graphic show the reproductions they started making years later. In that graphic the wire fits in from the back and the conductor is soldered where he hole is in the terminal. These terminals are brass and fit rather loose, but I have never had any issues with them. Even the new repros fit rather loose.
  7. I have never owned a car with an automatic transmission and don't plan on ever having one.
  8. Although I don't own a car from the twenties, some of my favorite cars are from 1924 - 27. I just don't have the space for another car, but if i had the space it would be a car in that age group. I am not sure how they are selling, but seems like the advertised prices on car up thru the early 30s have been low but rather stable for the past few years.
  9. I would start with class judging. Yes you may get deductions, but it would be nice to show it in class with similar cars first to see how it does.
  10. We are almost on plane, don't stop rowing! keithb7: Interesing, "Two Stroke Smoke" is also a forum for 2 stroke motor scooters I participate in.
  11. I cannot tell you where the wire goes, but I read more postings on the various forums I am active on from people having issues with Generator to Alternator conversions then from people just correctly maintaining their original generators and regulators properly.
  12. My guess is 1934 Chevrolet Master only or 35 Chevrolet Master or Standard. The hubcap hole is to large for 1933 or earlier Chevrolets or a 34 Standard model. You will get the best answer in the 1933 -1936 section of the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America (VCCA) Forum. https://vccachat.org
  13. If it was me, I would call PennDOT directly at (717) 412-5300 and talk to them about your issue. This is the phone number for the PennDOT headquarters in Harrisburg, the only people I ever talk to about vehicle registrations and titles. This is also the only place i go to related to vehicle registrations and titles. You may want to use the speaker on your phone as you may be on hold for a while. Be sure to keep good notes and names of the individuals you talk to just in case you run into an issue later.
  14. I bought Trico vacuum wiper parts from Ficken Sr back in the 1970s and always got good service. Sounds like that is no longer the situation with Ficken Jr.
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