Rick Marsh

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

1 Follower

About Rick Marsh

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The latest comments from edinmass are a good summary of where my local support is. We are down to one machine shop who has been more than helpful on my projects. They do, however, need some specs before jumping in. I have obviously not disassembled anything to this point and am reluctant to do so without the fundamentals of a plan. The good news is that with the current Covid-19 situation I have plenty of "out in the garage" time.
  2. My thanks to edinmass for reminding me that I'm not an expert. I've had this 1931 Chrysler CM6 for a few years and have, one by one, been trying to correct activities from previous owners, such as incorrect battery cables, incorrect intake / exhaust / carburation, inoperative gauges, etc. Yes, I don't know squat about a front end so I've been through two shops that have both told me it isn't ready for king pins and such. Both of them di suggest a steering box rebuild. This is North Carolina where the standard thought process leads one to take a pre-WWII car and drop in a Chevy 350. That is exactly why I came to this forum with what I assumed was a straight forward request. I guess I'll still keep looking for a technical manual and calls Larescorp about parts availability.
  3. 😊 I find that there is no more adjustment left in my steering box and would like to do a rebuild. Has anyone done this before? Where did you find the technical information? Where did you find the required parts? Thanks in advance for the assistance. Rick Marsh
  4. Good morning, I would like to thank all who replied and offered assistance. I now have a 1931 Chrysler CM6 that has been returned to the correct updraft configuration. It has never run better. I look forward to driving it on the Glidden Tour later this month. Thanks again
  5. Time for an update. I just got off the phone with a guy who says the Carter BB-1 will not fit. He stated the Chrysler CM6 came with a Stromberg updraft carb. So, does anyone have one of these puppies?
  6. I'm trying to get my 1931 Chrysler CM6 back to the original setup. It should be a carter BB-1 updraft. Who has one that they would like to part with? Thanks
  7. I guess I'll look for a Carter BB-1 and get back to you Thanks, Rick Marsh
  8. The intake and exhaust ports appear to be the same as in the photograph offered by Keiser31. I agree that my 1031 Chrysler CM6 should look like the image you shared of the engine compartment. That is the original setup with an updraft carb. I no longer have that. My car was converted by a previous owner to a downdraft carb setup. I assume the 1931 Dodge setup you have requires an updraft carb. Do you have the carb that goes with the Dodge intake and exhaust? Do you also have the air cleaner? Thanks, Rick Marsh
  9. I have a broken beyond repair exhaust manifold on my 1931 Chrysler CM6. A previous owner "upgraded" with PN 603033 which is either an early 1930s Chrysler or DeSoto. I'm in need of a PN 603033 replacement or an intake / exhaust pair that fits the stud pattern. It is two parallel rows of mounting studs with 23 1/4" from front to rear stud. Thanks in advance for any help. Rick Marsh
  10. OK, I'm back and the tour in Wilmington was a great outing. I went back out to the garage and the Chrysler decided to not start. After much aggravation there was some trash in the fuel line. Now that it starts and runs, I drained the oil and put in 4 1/2 quarts of 10W30. It runs about 60 Lbs when cold. I have not gotten it up to temperature yet and will do that in the next day or two. The attached images are of the oil pressure valve. I'll want to see what my pressure is at normal engine temp before I pull any wire and start turning things.
  11. Ok, I'm back in town and you all have given me much to think about. One other observation I failed to share is that the engine starts right up when cold and the oil pressure reads high, often 60 Lbs. It slowly degrades as the engine warms up getting down to the 5 Lbs range and doesn't noticeably change when warm. I think I should do the following in this order. 1. Take a closer look at the oil pressure adjustment on the side of the block. One source tells me they are dependent on which of three available springs are installed. The other source suggests that it can be adjusted by turning (clockwise for more and counterclockwise for less) 2. If that doesn't work, then I should move on to dropping the pan and looking to a possible oil pump rebuild. I could also at that time drop a cap to see if I have inserts or babbits. 3. If I still have an oil pressure issue, I guess the bearings are next. I'll precede all of this by draining and filling with a multiweight detergent oil and post any observed changes. I'll probably use Pennzoil 10W30. I'll be heading to Wilmington for the SE Divisional Tour this afternoon so it will be next Friday when I get back to the Chrysler. My thanks to all of you for the feedback to date.
  12. Thanks for the .002" clearance statement. Know I know what the clearance should be. It still leaves the question of inserts or babbits. I'll answer the other comments with a little history. When I bought the car, it ran and was in need of some TLC. Oil pressure was about 35 to 40 LBs. I went through the brakes and the cooling system first. I then focused on the engine and the oil was very black. Rather than just changing it, I dropped the pan, cleaned it out and replaced the old pan gasket. I also pulled the pressure valve out of the side, inspected it for debris buildup of which there was none and put it back in the side of the crankcase. I did not change the oil filter because there is not one on the engine. (I anticipate putting on an oil filter from a 1950 Chrysler at a later date). I filled the crankcase with straight 30 weight heavy duty detergent oil and started it back up. I've had this oil pressure problem ever since. Obviously, cleaning things up uncovered something and it could well be the bearings or, perhaps, something simpler.
  13. Gentlemen, Thanks for getting back to me. I'm running straight 30 weight HD oil. I have previously dropped the pan, cleaned out what was less than 1/2 cup of junk in the bottom of the pan and replaced the pan gasket. I pulled the adjuster out of the side of the block at that time, it looked clean and I put it back in. I've had this oil pressure issue since. I'll start knocking on doors as to who can do a babbit job for me.
  14. I've got a 1931 Chrysler CM6 sedan that runs well with good compression. It starts the morning at 40 Lbs or better of oil pressure and deteriorates as engine temp comes up. After a few miles, I'm down to 5 lbs on the gauge. 1. I swapped the gauge and confirmed the pressure drop. 2. I'm told the pressure is adjustable. The owners manual says the adjustment is via a spring change. 3. Two "experts" have told me I need to drop the pan and change out the crankshaft bearings. I have no maintenance manual ( only a detailed owners manual) and feel some questions need answering before I dive in. This is the first year for this engine design. Did Chrysler use inserts this far back? Are the bearing clearances .001, .002 or what? What are the torque specs for the bolts in the bearing caps? Thanks in advance, Rick Marsh