Rick Marsh

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About Rick Marsh

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  1. Good morning, I would like to thank all who replied and offered assistance. I now have a 1931 Chrysler CM6 that has been returned to the correct updraft configuration. It has never run better. I look forward to driving it on the Glidden Tour later this month. Thanks again
  2. Time for an update. I just got off the phone with a guy who says the Carter BB-1 will not fit. He stated the Chrysler CM6 came with a Stromberg updraft carb. So, does anyone have one of these puppies?
  3. I'm trying to get my 1931 Chrysler CM6 back to the original setup. It should be a carter BB-1 updraft. Who has one that they would like to part with? Thanks
  4. I guess I'll look for a Carter BB-1 and get back to you Thanks, Rick Marsh
  5. The intake and exhaust ports appear to be the same as in the photograph offered by Keiser31. I agree that my 1031 Chrysler CM6 should look like the image you shared of the engine compartment. That is the original setup with an updraft carb. I no longer have that. My car was converted by a previous owner to a downdraft carb setup. I assume the 1931 Dodge setup you have requires an updraft carb. Do you have the carb that goes with the Dodge intake and exhaust? Do you also have the air cleaner? Thanks, Rick Marsh
  6. I have a broken beyond repair exhaust manifold on my 1931 Chrysler CM6. A previous owner "upgraded" with PN 603033 which is either an early 1930s Chrysler or DeSoto. I'm in need of a PN 603033 replacement or an intake / exhaust pair that fits the stud pattern. It is two parallel rows of mounting studs with 23 1/4" from front to rear stud. Thanks in advance for any help. Rick Marsh
  7. OK, I'm back and the tour in Wilmington was a great outing. I went back out to the garage and the Chrysler decided to not start. After much aggravation there was some trash in the fuel line. Now that it starts and runs, I drained the oil and put in 4 1/2 quarts of 10W30. It runs about 60 Lbs when cold. I have not gotten it up to temperature yet and will do that in the next day or two. The attached images are of the oil pressure valve. I'll want to see what my pressure is at normal engine temp before I pull any wire and start turning things.
  8. Ok, I'm back in town and you all have given me much to think about. One other observation I failed to share is that the engine starts right up when cold and the oil pressure reads high, often 60 Lbs. It slowly degrades as the engine warms up getting down to the 5 Lbs range and doesn't noticeably change when warm. I think I should do the following in this order. 1. Take a closer look at the oil pressure adjustment on the side of the block. One source tells me they are dependent on which of three available springs are installed. The other source suggests that it can be adjusted by turning (clockwise for more and counterclockwise for less) 2. If that doesn't work, then I should move on to dropping the pan and looking to a possible oil pump rebuild. I could also at that time drop a cap to see if I have inserts or babbits. 3. If I still have an oil pressure issue, I guess the bearings are next. I'll precede all of this by draining and filling with a multiweight detergent oil and post any observed changes. I'll probably use Pennzoil 10W30. I'll be heading to Wilmington for the SE Divisional Tour this afternoon so it will be next Friday when I get back to the Chrysler. My thanks to all of you for the feedback to date.
  9. Thanks for the .002" clearance statement. Know I know what the clearance should be. It still leaves the question of inserts or babbits. I'll answer the other comments with a little history. When I bought the car, it ran and was in need of some TLC. Oil pressure was about 35 to 40 LBs. I went through the brakes and the cooling system first. I then focused on the engine and the oil was very black. Rather than just changing it, I dropped the pan, cleaned it out and replaced the old pan gasket. I also pulled the pressure valve out of the side, inspected it for debris buildup of which there was none and put it back in the side of the crankcase. I did not change the oil filter because there is not one on the engine. (I anticipate putting on an oil filter from a 1950 Chrysler at a later date). I filled the crankcase with straight 30 weight heavy duty detergent oil and started it back up. I've had this oil pressure problem ever since. Obviously, cleaning things up uncovered something and it could well be the bearings or, perhaps, something simpler.
  10. Gentlemen, Thanks for getting back to me. I'm running straight 30 weight HD oil. I have previously dropped the pan, cleaned out what was less than 1/2 cup of junk in the bottom of the pan and replaced the pan gasket. I pulled the adjuster out of the side of the block at that time, it looked clean and I put it back in. I've had this oil pressure issue since. I'll start knocking on doors as to who can do a babbit job for me.
  11. I've got a 1931 Chrysler CM6 sedan that runs well with good compression. It starts the morning at 40 Lbs or better of oil pressure and deteriorates as engine temp comes up. After a few miles, I'm down to 5 lbs on the gauge. 1. I swapped the gauge and confirmed the pressure drop. 2. I'm told the pressure is adjustable. The owners manual says the adjustment is via a spring change. 3. Two "experts" have told me I need to drop the pan and change out the crankshaft bearings. I have no maintenance manual ( only a detailed owners manual) and feel some questions need answering before I dive in. This is the first year for this engine design. Did Chrysler use inserts this far back? Are the bearing clearances .001, .002 or what? What are the torque specs for the bolts in the bearing caps? Thanks in advance, Rick Marsh
  12. I looked all over to find replacement axle seals. Most sources are unable to look up a replacement based on OD and axle dia. Then I found Darryl Zimmerman at EX Bearing in Litiz, Pa. It took him a whole ten minutes or maybe less to find the necessary seals. My 1931 Chrysler is back on the road. Darryl can be reached at 717-568-8800. or bearings@ptd.net
  13. Thank you very much for the response. I have a slide hammer and am going after an adapter for the proper hook to do the pull. The two part numbers I referenced were from my parts book and I am going by the description with no supporting pictures. I am assuming that the felt is pn 43053 and the retainer 43004 would be the round metal receiver. I'll do the pull this weekend and then start chasing down a replacement seal. Thanks again, Rick Marsh
  14. I have a 1931 Chrysler CM6 that has developed a leak in the right rear. It appears to be a worn axle seal. Other vehicles I've owned had an axle seal that was either a rubber core or leather. My parts book tells me this is a two part assembly consisting of a felt seal about 1/2" thick Pn 43053 and a oil seal retainer Pn 43004. Has anyone else been down this road? I would like to pull the old part out but, obviously, I do not wish to damage the retainer. The axle also has two bearing, back to back with races. The race with the outer bearing comes out with the axle. The inner race is still firmly inside the axle housing. I am assuming someone has been down this road before. What did you learn? Thanks, Rick Marsh