61polara

What series was this from or measure it for us. The Roadmaster and Supers used the wider grill and the Specials and Centurys used the narow grill. This will help you sell it.

Johnnybuick, glad you have brakes now. It's a good group of guys on here, all with good experience. It looks like your problem was identified in post #2. Sounds like your rebuilder did a good job for you. Stay on here with us as you progress in your project.

Reading you post again, I don't understand what you are talking about. Can you post pictures of the hub you are trying to remove and the new parts.

You will need a quality puller that bolts to the lugs and a BIG (mini sledge) hammer. Hit the lug on the puller until you think you are hitting to hard. Be sure to put the axle nut back on backwards so the drum won't fly off and hit you. Many posts on this on here, just do a search.

Bernie, Louis Jenkins died over a year ago, was a good friend and greatly missed. You must have been talking to his son, Hill Jenkins.

Korvun, I think it is time for you to contact the GM Heritage Center and ask for research on the car including the build sheet. This should clear up a lot for you.

Now that you have found them. I'll ask, where are your spare keys? It's the first thing I do when I buy a car with only one set of keys. I hope you will have a spare set by Friday!

The finder skirt looks like 1942 60 Special Fleetwood. The others may be also.

From what we can see, it could be a '41-48 Chevrolet.

Call your Chrysler dealer. They may be able to cut keys from the VIN number. They may require you to bring your registration card by to verify ownership. I know this can be done with GM vehicles.

You may want to check out this post. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/262262-fluttering-battery-guage-help/

Just a basic thought, have you adjusted the brake shoe?. That controls the amount of travel before the brakes start to hold. Also, how did you adjust the height of the pedal. I was not aware they are adjustable.

That intake manifold has a steel disk in the bottom of the manifold. It is just like a disk freeze plug. That has most likely rusted out. You will need to pull the manifold, grind the punch marks staking it into the manifold. It can be replaced with a standard disk freeze plug. You can seat it just like a regular freeze plug. I did this on my '60 Invicta about 20 years ago and it is still sealing.

Paul, Make sure the parts store is selling you vacuum line not fuel line. There is a huge price difference.

On a '90 Toronado, there is a blower module under the screen below the wiper blades. May be the same on your car. These use to be available through NAPA.

Your car originally had 8.00 x 15 tires which convert to a J78-15 letter series tire. An L78-15 replace a 9.15 x 15 tire. There was a "K" that was not used much, so your "L" is two sizes oversize. Tire size conversion charts are available online.

Paul, Yes these are Camomatic. See the annotations on your second photo below. There is a pivot in the arm that will allow it to pull out to clear the camomatic guide on the windshield.

I've gotten good results on Coker Classics in the past. I don't know about their current production since they have been on the car for five or more years and going strong.

Louis Jenkins always insisted on using latex rubber in place of foam rubber on his restorations. Costly, but a nice feel and lasted longer/

Pour a cup of kerosene in a bucket of water and wipe it down. Let this dry on the car. This will protect the bare metal areas and give a nice sheen to the overall car and will not hurt the paint. Others use linseed oil. I'm not sure what they cut it with or if they apply it full strength. If you use linseed oil, correctly dispose of the rags, as they can self ignite in a closed container.

You will want to have the hood open, trunk open, top up and windows rolled up. Clear anything out of the interior and trunk that is not factory equipment. Have a fire extinguisher visable. The judges are looking for correct restoration, fit and finish. You can download the Judges Guidelines from the AACA home page here and look at the judges score sheet for an idea of areas where deductions may be taken. Every car rolls on the field with 400 points. Deductions are taken from there. Before a major deduction is taken, the team captain will discuss it with the owner, so you will want to be with the car when it is judged. You should have factory documentation for anything that may be questioned by the judges, especially if you have an unusual item on your car. Common areas where points are lost are incorrect hose clamps, tire valve stem caps and radial tires on a car not equipped with them from the factory. You can prejudge your car with the judging sheet and start by correcting any items that you deduct for. Likely, you will be more critical of your car than the judges, because you know it and know what is incorrect. Start by correcting areas with high point deductions that are quick fixes and move down the list. Good luck at Hershey.

My experience is that radials will crack and become unsafe after about five years. My bias ply tires are lasting about 15 years before they start to crack. It's possibly the additional flexing of the radials. We don't see this on our drivers because we are wearing them out long before five years. I'll stick to bias on my old cars.

If you have a bent wheel, you need to straighten it or replace it. If it still hits the caliper, take it back to the guy that sold you the conversion and tell him to fix it or convert it back.

Front fenders have the lines of a 46-48 Buick Roadmaster or Super. Headlight rings, parking lights and chrome trim on front fenders is also 46-48 Buick.

Why? Do you just want to document what is wrong with this "original" car. We'll just start with paint code 43. This is not close to 43 other than it is green. Don't get me wrong, just don't represent this car as original. It is not. Nice car, but not restored to original.