61polara

I'd start with the mechanics to get it drivable first. That way you will have little rewards along the way to your end goal and it will keep you interested in completing the project. The last thing to do is to tear it all apart first as you will likely be overwhelmed by the pile of parts.

I've had the same problem after a complete rebuild including rubber hoses. I used a NOS rear hose, which failed internally, closing off the return of brake fluid. The rear brakes would get hot and tighter with each application of the brakes. Opening a wheel cylinder bleeder would release the pressure. Replacing the hose solved the problem. If you have a single master cylinder, I don't think the master cylinder is the problem if it only happens with the rear brakes.

The judge determines the actual points deducted. The maximum deduction is generally used for an incorrect, missing or no longer fit for its intended purpose. In your case, up to a 5 point deduction could be justified. Whenever a maximum deduction is stated by the judge, the team captain questions the judge about why a maximum deduction is proper and generally validates the deduction before it is taken.

The GM paint code is 13042. Chevrolet also used this color and it was called Mist Blue Poly. Also try here. They ship worldwide. http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/

I agree with Matt's comment above. The deduction for Emission Systems is from 1 to a maximum of 5 points. If the change was required by law, there should be no deduction, but you should have documentation of that and that the car was actually registered in that state to avoid a deduction.

Emission systems carry a deduction of up to a maximum of 5 points, so it should be somewhere between 1 and 5 points.

Valspar does not sell automotive paint in the US. Look at the Glasurit or Standox lines which you should be able to get in the UK.

Find out about the title first. We don't know where you live, but in many states it can be very difficult if not impossible to get a title to be able to register the truck. It will pay to do your homework on this issue first.

Glad it all worked out. My first rule is to check the simple things first. That's usually where you will find the problem.

I'd take all three for the $400

Joe, incase you don't know, that transmission will lock for parking even though there is not a Park position on the quadrant. You turn the engine off and then shift into Reverse and it locks the transmission.

Matt is correct. The partial repaint should only be one deduction. For a 1960 and newer vehicle, up to 6 deductions are permitted to receive HPOF certification.

Marty, Consider shipping by Greyhound or Trailways bus line. Not expensive.

Register it in the HPOF class and see what happens. The repaint alone will not prevent you from HPOF certification.

A car through 1931 can receive up to 9 deductions and still certify as HPOF. Depending how the judge takes the deduction, you may be at 9 or more deductions for a repaint. The rule is one deduction for each major body panel and fenders repainted. The judging team determines how the deduction is taken.

That logo was used from 1920-1929

You haven't bought it yet?

Thinking about this again, look at the carb first. I don't think the problem is vacuum, because a vacuum leak leans out the mixture. You seem to have the opposite problem, a rich mixture. Go for the carb first.

I don't think the PerTronix unit is your problem because it either works or it doesn't. Just like an off / on switch. To check for a vacuum leak some where, disconnect all vacuum lines from the carb and plug the ports in the car. See if the problem goes away. If it does, reconnect one line at a time and retest until you find the line causing the problem. Then start tracing that line until you find the problem. When you reach junction points that split off into different directions, cap all but one line and test again. It takes some time, but you've been putting up with this problem longer. If you sill have the problem with all vacuum lines plugged at the carb, you problem is not vacuum lines, so move on to the carb. You should not expect to see any soot coming from a 52 year old car with a rebuild engine that only had 123K miles on it even if it has a carb on it if the carb is adjusted correctly. When new (and you have a new engine) the exhaust pipe should be grayish and dry. I suspect there is a problem in the carb rebuild. It doesn't make since that the exhaust has soot and the plugs don't unless you are looking at plugs that have not been run long enough to have a soot build up. Black soot is either a very rich fuel mixture or oil burning from ring blow by or leaking valves guides. Soot from oil will feel greasy in the exhaust pipe. Soot from rich fuel mixture will feel dry. Everything you say leads me to believe it's a rich mixture causing the problem. Have someone else go through the carb again.

I grew up in a middle class neighborhood built around 1950. Most homes were starter homes for young couples like my parents. The cars I remember in the neighborhood, going up and down the street in about 1964 were a 1963 Pontiac, 1964 Pontiac, 1955 Chevrolet, 1956 Chevrolet, 1961 Dodge, 1955 Buick, 1960 Chevrolet Station wagon, 1962 Rambler, 1963 Buick, 1948 Dodge, 1948 Plymouth, 1964 Chevy II wagon (4 cylinder, manual trans) 1961 Renault Dauphine, 1955 Ford, and 1964 Ford. There were at least 2 Ford Model A's and a 40 Ford sitting at the back of driveways. The only Cadillacs that were around belonged to a church member who had been a Cadillac salesman since 1932. I didn't know anyone who owned a Lincoln and rarely saw one around town.

I agree, try HPOF and see what happens.

Your engine is not original to the car. The original engine number would start with 5275. That's the only difference in the engines, so it will work. However, there is a difference in the transmissions between 52 and 53. Both are 4 speed hydromatics but in 52 there are 5 positions, PNDLR. On the 53 transmission there are 6 positions PN'D'LR. There are two drive positions. One it shifts 1,2,3 and holds third gear. In the other it shifts 1,2,3,4. Click the shit leaver and see how many positions you have. If you have a 53 transmission, I may be interested in swapping you a 51 or 52 transmission for yours. I have a 53 Series 75 that a PO dropped a Chevy 305 with a turbo 350 transmission. Unfortunately, it was a factory AC car and all the underhood AC components were lost. It still has the trunk unit. They are wonderfully smooth cars, but have a low (I think 4.11) rear end which limits top ends speed. Driving mine home when I first bought it, it would run 65 on the flat interstate, but when I hit rolling hills, it would drop to 45 before I hit the top of the hill. This was with the 305 2bbl in it. Was a 100 degree day and all the windows were stuck up and the vent windows would open. It was an interesting 2 hour drive home!

The tag on the front of the truck is your first clue as the truck has been registered under it. Since you inherited it, the administrator of the estate should have the right to request a title search from the tag number through Oregon DMV and request a duplicate title. The estate administrator can then sign the duplicate title over to you with a letter of testamentary. This is general information based on what I have done in other states. Forum members from Oregon will give you more specific Oregon information. Some states have specific laws to deal with issues like this, but others don't. Good luck.

Title laws vary greatly from state to state. You will get better information if you tell us what state it was last registered in, if there is a license plate on it (what state) and what state you are trying to register it in. Also, in those years, most states used the motor number to title vehicles rather than the body number.

Nice car. The engine is a 318 not a 383. The 318 has the distributor in the rear like this car while the distributor on the 383 and larger engines is in front. The 340 also has the distributor in the rear, but did not come out until a few years later. Also, the 318 cars have a V8 emblem on the front finders. All the larger engine cars showed the engine size. This car has the V8 emblem, so again it's a 318.