61polara

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Everything posted by 61polara

  1. Look under the fender below the rear side window. They should be where the body side turns under the car. There should be one on each side. Run a screwdriver up into the holes and the water should flow out.
  2. I have to agree with Jim. I've had more master cylinders fail unexpectedly than a wheel cylinder. The best thing you can do is check the fluid on a regular basis. If it is dropping, you have a problem somewhere.
  3. You may get a better response if you tell us the year and anything else you know.
  4. I think your problem may be a little deeper than the diaphragm. What you are calling the Vacuum Pull Cable is actually the freewheeling lock-out cable. The purpose of this pull out knob is to allow push starting of a car with Vacamatic transmissions. When the car is stopped, the transmission is either in first or third gear, depending on the shift lever position. Both of these gears are freewheeling gears, which allows for the gear speed differences for the shift to occur. Second and fourth speed are non-freewheeling gears. The only way to get the transmission into a non-freewheeling gear is for the tranmission to shift on its own, via getting the car up to speed, lifting your foot off the gas and letting the vacuum valve do the shift. This can't happen if the car is not running. Chrysler provided the freewheeling lock-out so you could push start the car and have the rear wheels turn the engine. Pulling out the spring loaded lock-out knob, manually moves the transmission from freewheeling first or third to non-freewheeling second or fourth allowing the car to be push started. The recommended procedure from the Chrysler shop manual is: "Shift the manual shift lever in the "Low Speed Position", depress the clutch pedal, pull out lock-out cable, and turn on ignition switch. When towed car reaches approximately 5 to 10 miles per hour, engage the clutch, when the engine starts, release the lock out cable, which is spring loaded and will return to its normal position. THIS IS AN EMERGENCY CONTROL, AND THE CABLE MUST NEVER BE PULLED OUT EXCEPT WHEN IT IS DESIRED TO START THE ENGINE BY TOWING THE CAR." With this said, the lever may be stuck in the lock-out position, meaning you are already in second or fourth gear. Get under the car and make sure the lever on the transmission has moved back to to released position. If it has moved back, I suspect you have damaged something internal in the transmission. Good luck. Let us know what you find.
  5. Telll us more about what you have, such as year, model, body style and maybe some of us can give you some guidance.
  6. You want to pry on the chrome ring around the plastic, not the plastic part of the button.
  7. Located a few more pictures including chipping the cars out of snow and ice on the deck. Other local tales say that quite a few were hidden in the woods and later seen driven all over the UP.
  8. Local residents said that Chryslers kept on washing up on shore over the next few months and ran and drove perfectly! The Keewenaw History Museum car is one of those from the shipwreck although the Museum's caption is misleading. Many of the cars were sold locally and others apparently shipped back to Detroit.
  9. On November 30, 1926 the "City of Bangor" grounded in a major storm on the tip of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in Lake Superior. She was carring a shipment of 248 new Chryslers from Detroit to Duluth. The winds blew her sideways into the coast. In the storm, several Chryslers blew off deck, but most were safe in the hold. The ship was covered in ice. It took until February 1927 to chop throught the ice and drive the over 200 remaining Chryslers off the ship over an ice ramp to land. The cars were driven single file to Calumet, MI and later sold in the open market.
  10. My '67 Ford F100 has the switch on the left and this was a new body design.
  11. Old time joke........ Wooden Frame Wooden Axle Wouldn't Run! ....Brush! Looks like this one is running fine
  12. Thanks guys, after further research I agree its a 1918 or 1919.
  13. That would make since. His wife died in 1920 and I believe he bought the car before that. Thanks
  14. These are two photos of a Maxwell owned by my grandfather. Any help identifying the year and model is appreciated. Any one know how to get these photos to post horizontal? Thanks
  15. kiwi56r, I understand your concerns about overseas restorations. We are in weekly and sometimes daily contact with our restorer in Thailand via e-mail, photos and skype. In addition, we make periodic trips over to work directly with the restorer. We have about 1,000 photos of each car in process sent during the restoration. I don't want to hijack this thread, because it's going in a very good direction and would like it to continue on the shop vs self restoration cost. If you or anyone else would like to make additional comment on this, I'd be glad to start a new post in the General Topics section. Thanks!
  16. Producion, all series combined 1934 Airflow 2,450 1934 CA & CB 25,252 1935 Airflow 7,751 1935 C6 & CZ 33,755 1936 Airflow 6,285 1936 C7 & C8 52,946 Price was another important factor. In 1935, the highest volume year for the Airflow, the base price of the highest volume selling Airflow was $1,245 while the C6 Airstream Six was $860. In comparison, in 1935 Buick Series 40 sold 38,520 cars in the Airstream price range and 6,536 Series 50 cars in the Airflow price range. I've never believed the Airflow was a flop but rather lower sales volume because of higher price. 1937 Airflow 5,800 1937 C17 & C14 100,320
  17. I gave my 19 year old nephew a membership to AACA for Christmas today. He was very excited and wanted to know more about what this was all about. He's been interested in cars all his life and on his 16 birthday I gave him the last new car his Grandfather bought, a 1988 Oldsmobile Toronado Trafeo, which he loves. He's been to many shows with me with his father (my brother) and I explained which were AACA National verses local shows and he started to understand the meaning of an AACA membership. Then I explained that in 2013, he could start showing the Toronado he was even more excited. Then I explained the rule change that will let him show it in the HPOF class and what that is all about. He's trying to get his Dad to join AACA so they can show Dad's MGB and the Toronado at the same show in 2012!
  18. On the other end of the spectrum, I'm involved in a test of sending cars to Bangkok, Thailand for restoration and the first one is now an AACA Senior car and won an award at Meadowbrook. Before I'm bashed for sending work overseas, let me state that we have no restoration facility in the US, but use other shops to do the final 5-10% needed to get the cars show ready. Four cars have been completed so far and we have carefully selected what we are sending over in terms of market value. We've found that if the car has a restored value of $100,000, we can bring the cost in below that amount, including the purchase price of the car. These are full, frame off restorations of cars needing extensive metal work. We supply the parts from US sources, so our cost is the same there. In our next variation of this, we are sending the body only for metal work, body work and paint. We will do the sub assemblies here as well a the final assembly. Projected dollars look good, even considering the shipping cost. We have four more cars in holding to be restored there. With each one, we are improving the process. We'll see how this works out.
  19. For a full frame off restoration you are looking at about 1500 - 2500 hours whether you do it yourself or send it out, so there is a substantial savings if you have the time and ability to do it yourself. One option not mentioned so far, is to look at your local communtiy colleges and see what is available. At one end of the spectum are the classes where you work on college project cars. These are good to fine tune or learn the basic skills. Learning to do body work and paint on a project Honda will make you ready to jump on your on project more effectivly. In other programs, you can actually work on your own vehicle. You have full use of the shop equipment and paint booths along with a professional instructor to guide you. Based on the program, your use of the facilities may work out to about $2.00 and hour and usually the schools have very good discount arrangements with material and paint suppliers. I taught a paint and body restoration class at a local community college for 10 years, offered on Friday nights and Saturday mornings. Eight hours a week. A frame off was difficult to do because of the space it would occupy, that was needed by other classes during the week, but we could work around that by pulling the body, storing the body at the owner's home and the owner hauling the frame back and forth each week. Not the best way to do it, but it did work and was cheap for the student. The other benefit of going the community college route if you have never done a restoration before is that you will find out if you have the ability to do it. Some people can do good body work or good paint and others can do both well. Then there are those who can not "feel" the body work imperfections or "see" how the paint lays down. I could put a paint gun in the hands of someone who has never shot before and tell you in 5 minutes if I could teach him to paint. You never know until you try it!
  20. Reviewing owners manuals, it appears the large plastic window began in 1949. That's the first year I see reference to "care of plastic window". This was also a major body change, so that makes since.
  21. Contact Louis Jenkins, Jenkins Interiors, Wilkesboro, NC
  22. Dick, If this is dealing with NC DMV, you might need copies of this information. It's attached. Dave Bowman Charlotte, NC
  23. The MS in the VIN number indicates a 1942, 1943, 1944 or 1945. The motor number will help narrow it down as well as knowing the truck series. MS indicates a 1 1/2 ton truck on the 160inch wheelbase. Begining serial number was MS-1001 and continued through this series of trucks. 1942 motor numbers were 2AF-1001 & up or BF-1001 & up for the Stake Express or Stock Express bodys. 1944 and 1945 MS trucks used motor number BG-580921. There is no listing for 1943 and it appears any built in 1943 would continue the 1942 motor number series. Source: 1949 Red Book.
  24. Very impressive. For others, "Hirek" is the hyperlink to the web site. Is this your shop?