61polara

No leather in the photos although Cadillac did offer leather bolsters in that period. I agree, take them off and see what you have. On the 75 sedans most had broadcloth front and back, the formal sedans (division window) usually had leather front and broadcloth in back. I have a "53 75 sedan.

Again, I recommend diagnosing your problem further with a front end specialist. They will able to confirm if it is the steering box or not. If the steering wheel is turning, but the output shaft on the box is not, then you have a steering box problem. Bias ply tires generally don't cause this problem, but your tires are old. Remmington L78-15 haven't been made in years and the rubber is hard and will give a harsh ride. Find your steering problem and then consider new tires.

Contact Key-Men.com. They did a great job for me making a 1921 Maxwell key from the lock number.

Welcome Jeff, There are a lot of great guys here that can help with your problem, but we can't from a problem described only as a bad steering problem. I've dealt with several '56 Lincolns and am not aware of a consistent '56 steering box problem. Give us more information. What is the steering box doing to make you think that is the problem? I hate to see people throw good money at a good part. Has a front end specialist looked for worn part other than the steering box. It could even be a problem with old tires. Let us know more and especially documentation about the issue you heard about with the '56 steering box.

Filed my comment before the deadline.

It sounds like your main bearings are worn out. install an actual gauge to see what is really going on. Changing to a thicker oil may help.

The third spare is likely because the car is running radial tires and radials won't fit in the sidemount wells.

It's most likely the rear torque ball seal. If it's a small leak I would let it go. lt's the seal at the end of the transmission. You need to get under the car and find out where it is leaking from. When you can tell us where it is leaking from, we can guide you on the next step.

I'm guessing that you photo is of the California plant, which I think was the last to close. The car in the photo is a solid color not a metallic as the last Buick from the Flint plant. That narrows it down some (so exclude the paint names that end in poly). I converted the 1942 paint chips to gray scale and compared them to the photo. I believe the car is Ludington Green. There are other options, but in my opinion, the color is one of the greens.

kalve, You need to slow down or it will cost you a lot of money. Get the clear title first before you spend another dollar on this car. It's a great car to start with, but without a title it's a parts car. Get it running first. A 6v system will start the car. Get the engine free and turning and running before you think of buying tires. If your engine is bad and has to be rebuilt and the cost is outside you budget, why do you want to spend dollars on a 6v alternator and new tires. Just trying to get you to set some priorities, because I've been there and done that. Good luck with your car. Consider joining the AACA Chapter in Huntington. There are great guys there who can offer you guidance.

Marty, Per Hollander Interchange the following wheels are the exact match to what you are looking for: '53-55 Cadillac 60S, 62 '48-52 60S, 60, 61, 62, 63 Size 15x6 5-5" There are a few other options listed as "fits". Let me know if you need that information as well.

Steve's comments are very true, but I would add that AACA judging is unique in that we have a core of judges who attend many of our National Meets each year and help to make the judging standards consistent from one National Meet to another. Here's to our core of roving "gipsy" judges, who make this system of multiple National Meets work.

This car was a low mileage, all original car from the personal collection of Louis Jenkins. Louis would have been glad that you've had it out on the road enjoying it. Now for a period of rest, but hopefully not too long. Great car.

You may have one more option if your car is basically unrestored. The HPOF class (Historical Preservation of Original Features) may be a choice. Item's can be replaced as maintenance, but certification is based on the unrestored condition of the car. A repaint is a deduction as well a rechromed parts or a new interior. Items replaced as maintenance items should match original parts. This means belts, hoses, clamps, etc. Looking forward to seeing your car at Hershey.

Please post the photo and we may be able to help you

Have you tried repositioning the wipers when they are in park?

I'm thinking Pontiac or Olds. Push buttons for Off, Heat, and Defrost and a slide bar for the temp control.

Micky, I'm in Charlotte and would be willing to make a trip to look things over for you. I have a '65 Thunderbird and Lincolns of the same years. I'll PM you with contact info to discuss further.

The hot wire is in the connector for each of these items. You can google and find these wiring diagrams. Here is the one for the windows.

I'm going to take this in another direction. You say your brakes are hot as well. I would look for dragging brakes first. If you rear brake hose is failing internally it will limit the brake fluid return to the master cylinder and keep the brakes applied. The last time I had this problem, I cut the old hose open and the fluid passage had reduced to the size of the tip of a ball point pen.

I agree, I would not convert. The car that I bought with one fried the unit, so I converted back to a points system and no problems since.

My Dad loved cars and instilled that in me. He didn't have old cars, but supported me in my endeavors. When I turned 16 and was given a handed-down 8 year old Dodge (1961 Dodge Polara 2HT that he bought new), I told him I thought it needed a tune-up. Thinking he would say, "We'll take it to the shop", he surprised me and said, "We'll buy the tools and parts and do it our self, if we break something we can't fix, then it will go to the shop". We did my first tune-up together and it worked. He loved attending shows and events with me. Dad and his older sister on Grandpaw's 1919 Maxwell. His sister is now 103. Here he is on the left with his life long friend with his first car. This is about 1942. Both of them left North Carolina for the first time to work in the Glenn L. Martin factory building the Martin B-26 Marauder in Baltimore. Both were drafted from there, Dad serving in the 164th Combat Engineers in Europe. His last car, another coupe was a 1988 Oldsmobile Toronado Trafeo. I miss him dearly. He was a great father and friend and I would not be the person I am without him.

Brake fluid burns as a white smoke out of the exhaust (not blue white like oil). Look for it when the engine is at high vacuum, idling or when you close the throttle quickly. If you see the white smoke, then it is the booster. If not, it may be the booster or something else. When did you last check the brake fluid. How long and how much driving did it take to get low? Did it evaporate? Don't assume it's the booster yet.

Steven, Let us know what you find. Many good people on here to help guide you. Post pictures as well and it will help us guide you.

Dave, I would leave the top up and windows down and front seat all the way back. Part of the answer depends on if you are using brake fluid or ATF in the system. In the up, down and back position the push rods are all the way down in the cylinders and in the fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and the rod that is out will begin to corrode. When you put the window down next spring, it will start to cut the top seal and soon it will leak. With ATF, there is an oil coating on the exposed rod and it is not as big of a deal.