Rztrike

Sid, I have to be honest I don't remember which one it was. I was very unsure when I was looking at their website so that was when I called and asked about the tank for my car. I went with the recommendation from customer service and was happy I did

Where are you checking for spark? At the points or at the spark plugs?

Mine is a 56 and Tanks inc did not have an exact fit tank but what they did have is so close you can't tell and its not an issue to install. I was also disappointed with the neck filler not being permanently attached but the alignment was good. Just need to use a little caution when putting gas in. I take to a person in customer service and he was very helpful answering all my concerns before I purchased. Will buy from them again if ever the need arises. Hope this helps

I must need new glasses. I found that now in a different search. The 50/70 Series is 127' wheelbase 5" longer Thank you!! Thank you

Question, I have a 1956 Buick 40 series. I understand that the dual exhaust tailpipes for the 40 and 60 Series are the same. My question is, Can someone tell me what the differences are between the 40/60 tailpipes and the 50/70 Series. With the wheelbases all being the same (122") shouldn't the only difference be the length after the pipe comes over the rear. One goes under the bumper, the other goes into the bumper. Reason I ask this is that I have found some NOS tailpipes. Bought one but was afraid to buy the other not knowing where the differences were

I can't help you on price but wanted to comment on how nice your car is. Hope you can find a way to keep her, would love to have it in my stable

Very nice car, My first thoughts are to have your pictures Photoshopped withe the color tints you would be considering. Wont cost you anything if you decide you don't like it. I don't know if there is anyone on this forum that might be able to help. Someone else may be able to chime in and help. Personally, I can see why you would want tint but I think the older cars need to be clear

I feel the need to stand up for myself on this as a few feel the need to read between the lines. First of all, After reading the post (How would I fix this car) I read all of the original post about the car and the trials and tribulations of getting the car to where it was before the accident, then reading the title of the second post again (How would you fix this car) which was before the note about him not fixing the car, I had made my reply as I did. Now i will admit I had gotten caught up in the emotion seeing the car damaged and how the poster feels about the car. With all that in mind, hindsight says I misinterpreted the post, I was thinking that he did not know where to start, which is why I replied the way I did, meaning that I personally would not fix this car. My apologies and i take full responsibility for going off topic though it was not my intention

Here's my $.02. I am all for resurrecting old cars but sometimes it just doesn't make sense. You have already taken the time to bring this car back to life and have had many trials and tribulations along the way and it has brought you great joy to be able to start it up for the first time and then to drive it. To try and resurrect this car again can be done but even with the most experienced body man it will never be right or what you remembered it to be. Take the insurance money and either put it into your other cars or if you have fallen in love with this style, buy another and let this car be a donor for the next one. Sometimes we need to sacrifice one so another may live. Hope this helps in your decision

My $.02. When a car is 1 of 1,690 and complete it can be called rare. When all the changes have been made to it like this one has, not so rare anymore. Something about the car just doesn't look right either, think its just the color. I can appreciate all the work that went into it to make it what it is but to each his own

I saw some helicopter footage of the areas destroyed by the fires. Lives lost, families suffering severe losses. I have lived through a barn fire and lost everything but nothing like that . Prayers to everyone affected and Thanks to all who are trying to battle these fires and to keep others safe

Not familiar with the seat but most rear sets you need to lift the seat up above the brackets and then let it slide down. As the brackets catch with the set will pull back into position

I got lucky with mine. I used the casting number on the inside of the skirt and posted a want ad here and found a good used one. (Lot of good people here wanting to help) Used my old rod, put new rings on and was good to go. What I was told about these pistons is that were had been some casting problems and some would self destruct. Mine did

This is just a thought, your concern is protecting the original paint on the springs. Your idea for plastic shims seems like a very good idea. You could also make wooden round shims any thickness (1/8", 1/4" etc.) you wanted using a wood hole saw and then if you were concerned about them falling out you could run a string or wire thru the center hole a tie them all together. Just don't like the idea of using metal washers on metal when trying to save paint. Hope that makes sense to you, it did in my mind

Thank for the reply. I will be putting in new pipes but wanted to take the old ones out in one piece for comparison Update: I was able to get the driver side out but the passenger side no matter how I twist and turn its either hitting the torsion bar or gas tank or the front of the pipe is wedging on the frame. I did disconnect the emergency brake cable at the torque tube. That made the difference getting the driver side out. Thinking I have to disconnect the torsion bar on the passenger side to get clearance. Shouldn't be this difficult