61polara

You're correct. Only Judges Registration can be paid online. For the show registration you have to print the form and mail a check.

It appears to be the same car based on the antenna mounted on the left rear fender. In addition to the side trim which appears to be aftermarket, there are aftermarket covers on the port holes in the front fender.

That's what I was hoping......

I would expect a 1 or 2 point deduction. The maximum deduction for exhaust is 5 points. However the Chassis Judge could make the deduction under "Other" as an incorrect aftermarket item and take more than 2 points. It's really the call of the Judge and Team Captain on this one.

If you are an AACA member you can log in on the AACA.ORG home page and register and pay on line,

Charlotte, NC - CC Coddington was the Buick Distributor for North and South Carolina. Although the photo is labeled as Thomas Cadillac-Olds, it is the Coddington Building located on West Trade Street. Thomas Cadillac looked much like this building but was on S. Church Street. Frank Woods Pontiac can be seen in this S Tryon Street shot. Notice the '42 DeSoto parked on the street. Nash Dealer on West Fifth Street. The Coddington Building and Nash Building still exist.

Your switch may have been replaced with an aftermarket switch or is rotated out of position. Straight up is on, left is off, but unlocked and right is locked on the original switch.

There is a piece missing to this story. I think if you go back to 2007 and look forward, the old car market dropped significantly. Those who were able to invest in high dollar cars at the bottom of the market have done very well. For those who owned cars in 2007 and held them, prices have not quite returned to the 2007 level, so we are still at a loss (or just breaking even) and not seeing that 289% increase.

Thanks Guys for all of your help and great suggestions, but C49er came up with the correct answer. The gasket is in the right place, so I don't have to remove it.

Thanks for clearing this up. I thought I read in the '50 shop manual that on coupes and convertibles it is mounted on the deck lid but on sedans it goes on the body in the channel. I'm leaving it where it is on the body.

I've acquired a nice 1950 Chrysler Club Coupe and in sorting it out I've found that when the car was painted, the trunk gasket was installed in the body water channel not to the deck lid. The trunk leaks a small amount now. The gasket was installed with 3M Super Weather Strip Adhesive. Does any one know of a solvent that will remove this adhesive and not harm the paint?

Not wanting to start an argument here, I agree that the wood graining was a delete option, but did Buick still install the trim outlining where the wood graining would have been? This is a 400 with wood grain delete and no trim, which is how I would expect the delete optioned car to be delivered. I'm open to change my mind with a little documentation. Do you have the build card from Buick? Again, you have a very nice car.

It's a very nice car, but I believe it has been repainted in the factory color and the woodgrain eliminated. The wood grain should be inside the stainless moldings. The lesser models did not have woodgrain and also did not have the stainless moldings.

It's time for a real photo of my signature car. A 1961 Dodge Polara 2 door hardtop. Bought new by my Dad in September 1961. I was 8 years old at the time and with Mom and Dad in the showroom of Hutton-Scott Dodge (Randolph Scott's family). Mom fell in love with the Dodge in the center of the showroom and we came home with it. Dad drove it until 1965, traded in Mom's 1956 Chevrolet 150 and it became her car until 1969, when it was passed down to me as my first car. Mom got a 1968 Dodge Charger as a replacement. I still have the car and hope to get it out again in 2019. These photos are from the last major trip I drove it on from North Carolina to the UP of Michigan and back. I saw the Northern Lights for the first time as we were driving into the UP. Space age Dodge and the Northern Lights...….what a combination! You either love or hate the look of this car. There has never been any in between.

Hopefully retiring in 2019 so I have more time for the cars and AACA activities.

You need a wiring diagram to see where the source of the power for those circuits are. Have you looked in your service manual?

Joe, I think that is the main problem in doing a conversion. Chrysler never built this transmission in a 12V car. They switched to the Powerflyte transmission in 1955 when they also changed to 12V. Many have tried using a voltage reducer on the solenoid with no luck. Possibly the voltage reducer drops the amps below what is needed to hold the plunger out to keep the transmission in the lower gear.

Go down to the Chrysler Forums below an search on 12v conversion of Fluid Drive. Many have tried, but few if any wound up with a transmission that would shift. Hope you figure out how to do it right.

It's the same as Chevrolet's vacuum shift used from 1941-1948. It makes the gear shift leaver easer to move. On Chevrolet, it also had a shorter shift throw. I don't know if Chrysler shortened the throw as well.

Most of my cars are DPC with a few in HPOF. Go for HPOF and see what happens.

In the mid-60's, my great aunt and uncle were both driving close to new cars, both with manual transmission and radio delete. My uncle was the only dentist in a small town and could afford what ever he wanted. His car was a 1964 Impala 9 passenger wagon with three speed manual on the column with overdrive and factory A/C and radio delete. My aunts car was a 1965 Buick Special, factory air, 3 speed manual transmission and radio delete. While visiting, I ask my aunt why the cars were equipped that way. She responded "I want to know what gear I'm in when I drive and your uncle will kill us on the highway playing with the radio". I guess he won out the next time because the next car was a 1972 Lincoln Town Car.

Tell us what tires you are running. It will help getting better direction.

I think you like your tires and wheels. Simple answer to your question is don't parallel park, Manual steering systems are designed around the surface contact of the wheels. I doubt you will find a 6v electric steering system. Your best option, if you want radials is to go to the radial equivalent of a 8.20 x 15. It is a much cheaper option than backyard engineering a new steering system. It will be heaver than the original easy steering system, but much better than what you have now. Also, tire pressure is critical if you are running radials. Keep it near the maximum pressure listed on the tire. Also, you have to drive a car with manual steering different than one with power steering. You never try to turn the wheel without the car rolling. Also, if you are backing out of a parking space, before moving forward, straighten you wheel to the position to want to move forward in before you stop backing up. It makes a world of difference, just by changing the technique.

Why don't you consider DPC class?

When you are doing hoses, be sure to use correct clamps.