Larry Schramm

Try here. http://hudsonterraplane.com/tech/1927/StewartWarnerVacuumTank2-11-27.pdf Is this what you are looking for?

I agree with Pete. I have done a number of engines without replacing everything and have not had any problems. These include daily drivers. The best decision is to determine the cause of the noise and start there. Everything else is speculation.

Don't disagree that it is not a T, but just reading the caption.

The caption says it was a Model T and the picture was taken in 1912. So I would guess a '11 or '12 T.

I agree with the above. Noises generally do not get better with age.

Asked for pictures of the engine. Just curious.

Must be smoking some good stuff.

You might laugh, but the jute backing for carpet seems to work well. Just cut out a piece as large as the outside diameter of the opening and then the center hole a little smaller than the crankshaft and you are done. I a have also glued some felt together to get a piece thick enough for the opening.

My trucks have 3/4" dashboards

Here it is Saturday March 5th here in Detriot where it was raining this morning and at 7:00 tonight we already have 2-3 inches of snow on the ground tonight and it is still snowing.

I have used plasti-gauge on both babbit and inserted bearings. I usually fit oil pressurized insert engines on the .001-.002 inches and babbit in the .002-.003 inch area. So far have not had any problems. I also use GM assembly lube when I put the engines together. It might also be called Engine Oil Supplement. The GM part number is #1052367.

Buick and Ford both started in 1903. Chevrolet I believe started in 1913.

That Opel GT looks almost exactly like one that I had including the non factory mag wheels. Color and all.

The "O" ring seals issue with oil dripping was an easy fix. It took me about an hour to replace them on our '64 Monza with the Viton o-rings and it never leaked a drop after that. In fact it started to rust here in Mich.

Would a 2 inch (5cm) be about the right size? I don't think lighter (mass) is the issue if the stud is put on properly.

Dave, I would guess that wire just broke over time from opening and closing the door. As you know, it is a very common problem in the door to body pass through.

I agree with Thriller. I have had the same experience with U-Haul. I am not sure what they will allow to be towed with their car haulers except a model T by a 2500 Silverado. Even loads that my trucks say are fine based on the manufacturers guidelines, they have declined. In their defense I might guess they rating capacities to the lowest common denominator in the population with a W I D E safety margin. How many times have you been driving down the road at 60-70 mph and saw a trailer loaded to the max pass like you are standing still? I finally went out an bought a Silverado, enclosed car trailer, and an open trailer to eliminate the hassle. (all over time, not at once.)

I agree with Dave. The seal in the timing cover was/ is felt. It fits into a recess that has an opening on the bottom side of the recess. The oil is "caught" by the felt and then drains back into the crankcase.

Might want to post this on the garage & trailering section.

I went to high school with a girl that had a stock 6 cyl Camaro.

If you are looking for someplace that does great work, AmericanArrow in Detroit is the place. Not cheap, but quality work. Here is a link to their web site. American Arrow Don Sommer

Sounds like you might have a bad mode door actuator.

Most auto parts stores have the tool Here is picture from Autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Help-Universal-Window-Handle-Removal-Tool/_/N-25tn?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=door+window+clip+remover&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=721258_0_0_

When teaching my auto tech students I tell them that "If you can not get it started and going you can not get in trouble... but... If you can not stop it, you are in trouble!!!" Brakes are the most important part of a vehicle and not the place to skimp.

I loved living in Alabama. Might move back after we retire.