Larry Schramm

Thanks

If you are in Washington, you might contact Mark Shaw for a lead. He is on this forum

Paul, I might be going out on a limb, but I do not think the vehicle that you are looking at is a factory truck unless is was a commercial chassis from the 20's. All factory trucks from '10 to '23 were four cylinder models that I am aware of. An auction in Nebrask almost four years ago advertised a Buick Truck for sale, but from everything I could see it is not a factory truck, but a converted car. This was common in farm communities. Here is a picture of that truck. http://www.fowlkesrealtyandauction.com/images/dittrich-buick-truck.jpg If you can post some pictures we will be able to tell you what you are looking at. If you get the frame number Dave Corbin will be able to tell you exactly what it is. Regards,

Too noisy!!

Depending on the model of Hybrid, the ones that I know of have either about 42v,120v, 300v, or 360v

Will send you copies of the wiring diagram.

I have been happy with 4 Seasons Radiator which is across from the Oakland Mall on 14 mile rd. I go there for all of my radiator work.

When you turn on the switch do you hear the fuel pump run for about 3 seconds? NTX5467 I believe is correct that the ECM closes the relay in the relay center that then turns on the fuel pump.

I wish I would have had that kind of a vehicle when I was young. I would have been the hit for something different.

If it were mine, I would leave it a manual transmission vehicle. This would be a great vehicle for your son to learn to drive a manual. Too many people in this world do not know how to drive a manual. I bought a truck for my son and I left it a manual so he will be able to drive our old vehicles. Just my thoughts..IMHO

I have been to Munich during October Fest as I recognize the beer steins.

For a quick check of the fuel pump, put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail port on the engine. Then go in and turn the key on. When going from off to turning the key on but not starting the engine and you should have a 3-5 second prime of the fuel system to get to operating pressure. If you do not hear the prime, then the relay, pump, on switch or something upstream is the problem. At the same time check for pressure and if it is less than about 45-50 lbs pressure, then the pump is suspect. That is where I would start without a Tech II scanner.

Just a note to be sure you get good fuses from a reputable company. Some of the low cost non name brand fuses might not blow at the stated current limit.

This is a 10 year old post

Here is a link to what you need to get the back wheels off. http://forums.aaca.org/f170/hub-puller-tool-mystery-1920s-1930s-260194.html

Mark, What is the brand of the tractor?

Bernie, You are great. I hope that I have your energy and sense of adventure when I am your age. I wish that I would be able to come with you in a couple of years but I think that with two offspring in college will continue to take up all of my disposable income and then some. As for some of the alpine roads, I can say that they are challenging and also fun to drive. It has been some time since I have been there. I hope to have my wife and I return for more fun and maybe meet you there. As for the Boliva road, I think it would be a very tactical challenge. My wife thinks I am nuts to even think about that type of trip, but I am usually game for a lot of different experiences. Keep up the great work on your current project as you inspire the rest of us. Larry

Just a guess, but it looks like the remnants of an "O" ring that got hard. I say that because it looks similar to the O rings that I replaced in the Corvair push rod tubes when they got overheated.

The Gavia Pass looks like a nice Sunday drive in the sports car. I did not look at the complete video, but what I watched, it was all paved and a retaining wall on the down side. Now if you want to see a real driving challenge, look at this short jaunt in Bolivia with the guys from Top Gear. Especially look at the video at about 6 minutes 30 seconds. Then we can talk of the big guy on the block/car/truck. :-)

Might just look at the two balancers to be sure they are the same. It has been known to have packaged the wrong part in the box.

Now I am not encouraging you to do this, but I have on occasion tapped the crank sensor with the engine running using a long rod or screw driver. If the car cust out then it is the crank sensor. You can also with the palm of your hand tap on the ecm and if it cuts out that would be a place to go. Just my thoughts.

One of the major reasons for the different sizes of rotors, etc was what engine was in the car and did the car have heavy duty suspension for towing trailers, etc. If the car came equipped with a smaller engine like a V-6 it might have the smaller rotors. If it had a big engine then it would have the larger braking system. I know the early front wheel drive Buick Centuries if I remember had 14 inch wheels for the 4 cylinder models and 15 inch wheels/tires and the brake sizes were different also.

Will only work if there is a politician attached to the intake for the engine.

There were aftermarket heaters for the Model T. Here is a link to a discussion on one of the types. Model T Ford Forum: Atlas exhaust heater manifold I have also seen one that just bolts around the exhaust that goes between the fan blade that pushes air through the heater and into the passenger compartment. One of the most interesting heaters was the optional gasoline heater that was used in the early model Corvairs. Had a sparkplug and everything else to keep the passengers warm.

I got a sneak peak yesterday of the exhibit and I will say that is is going to be really good when it is open. I plan on going back at a later time to spend some time reading all of the displays, etc.